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12/11/2018 1:58:31 AM
11/9/2018 9:21:38 PM
Posted: 4/7/2018 11:52:11 PM EST
Several of you have mentioned pinning a muzzle device on the X95 so you can go with the thin buttpad.

I'm about to do this with my X95.
What device are you pinning?
How long does the device have to be to make sure you're over 26" with the thin buttpad?

--
I really like the VG6 GAMMA (though I've used Surefires, Lantacs, and PWS FSC556s in the past), BUT I think I'm going to pin the VG6 Epsilon since (a) supposedly it hides muzzle flash a bit, and (b) it can mount some of the A2-compatible "blast-deflectors" (I do not know if it works with the latest Griffin one, but it did with the gen1 Griffin. I like the idea of the blast-deflectors for HD).

NOTE: I have a friend wanting to trade his like new Daniel Defense V7 SLW 14.5" (w/ pinned FH) and $350 for my 2017 X95...I'm VERY tempted, as I do like his sub-6 pound gun (and the X95 barely fits in my "4-Rifle" safe at an angle). I still need to buy a short (tall) rail for the X95 AND a $350 geiselle trigger. With the DDV7, I would only want a $200 trigger.
Link Posted: 4/8/2018 6:50:47 AM EST
I had Rainier pin the stock muzzle device just last week. As requested they left the barrel bushing in place (a necessity as they often break if not put on the muzzle end). Whatever device you consider please note, it must slip through the hole in the handguard or the handguard will need to be modified rendering the bushing useless. I considered Surefire devices as I have their suppressors and scratched that ideas for the above reasons.
Link Posted: 4/8/2018 12:26:53 PM EST
I just did a standard a2 and use the removed iwi device as a key chain ornament . I measured with the fat buttpad still on to make sure I’d clear 26” with a thin butt pad on. It doesn’t extend much past the rear of the gun so if you clear 26” from muzzle to the rear with the butt plate open so you aren’t counting it’s thickness you should be fine.

I don’t like compensators on 16” bullpups it is unpleasant. I used to have one on my x95. On one ocassion it literally tore up one of of those nra duffel bags I was using as a rest (I didn’t notice the noise too much then because I do plugs with muffs on top indoors). Then when using it in that configuration at Cola warrior east 2 years ago with just 1 set of earpro i think plugs it hurt with it echoing off the trees the gentlemen scoring that stage agreed it was painful for them too with the blast and noise. If you are using a muzzle device to mount a suppressor that’s one thing if it’s just to have one I’d recommend against it. It’s a 5.56 it’s pretty mild recoil plus the barrel being close to you it’s going to be nearly as obnoxious as a comp on a short barrel AR.

I’m off tomorrow if I can figure out a image hosting situation I’ll try to put up some pics.
Link Posted: 4/8/2018 2:11:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/8/2018 2:13:33 PM EST by browning43]
I wanted to pin a surefire device but as mentioned it is too big for the hand guard to slide over it.

i still want to dremel/drill press the hand guard to a larger dimension but I havent gotten around to it.

eta: where are you guys having the pin weld done? What kind of price have you found for the service?

I just really dont want $200 wrapped up into a pin weld and possibly cut job when I could sbr it for the same price

eta2: this hobby is expensive
Link Posted: 4/8/2018 3:17:28 PM EST
I had a friend do it. He had never done one before so it was free. Adco lists pin and welds from $30 to $85 they drilled and mounted my FSB for my m16a1 clone plus I think they are a site sponsor so they would be good.
Link Posted: 4/17/2018 9:56:13 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/17/2018 10:13:33 PM EST by amd_dude]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By browning43:
I wanted to pin a surefire device but as mentioned it is too big for the hand guard to slide over it.

i still want to dremel/drill press the hand guard to a larger dimension but I havent gotten around to it.

eta: where are you guys having the pin weld done? What kind of price have you found for the service?

I just really dont want $200 wrapped up into a pin weld and possibly cut job when I could sbr it for the same price

eta2: this hobby is expensive
View Quote

I did this with a dremel (don't laugh) and it turned out decent. I have the shortened overwatch rail, pinned sico fh.

Gearheadworks did a one or two off custom cut down but wouldn't do it for me:

Link Posted: 4/22/2018 11:57:11 AM EST
Looks like the m21 off a idf model SAR mounted to the gasblock more than a cut down rail. Is it configured differently now than the pic?
Link Posted: 4/22/2018 7:22:32 PM EST
I think I would rather do the 18" barrel + thin pad.
Link Posted: 4/26/2018 4:34:37 AM EST
[Last Edit: 4/26/2018 4:50:33 AM EST by bbies1973]
Originally Posted By eviljoe:
How long does the device have to be to make sure you're over 26" with the thin buttpad?
View Quote
I found this over in the Tavor section on bullpupforum.com:
A standard length 1.875'' flash hider will create a 26.75'' Tavor when installed on the 16.5" barrel
View Quote
I think the Tavor OEM device is slightly shorter than standard length (although, I never actually measured it), but with 3/4 of an inch to spare, I think even it should be long enough. I found another claim that without a muzzle device, the rifle with thin buttpad and 16.5" barrel measures 25 1/4 inches. If true, this would mean that you only need the muzzle device to add .75 inches to reach 26: OAL, or a full inch just to have a 1/4 margin of error. This is, of course, not inlcluding the threaded portion which overlaps the barrel. Standard AR barrel threadings run about .40" from the muzzle to shoulder. When I measured my Tavor for a custom suppressor mount, I got a maximum measurement of 0.73" almost twice as long.

EDIT: Most muzzle devices will stop against the threads or muzzle before reaching the shoulder on Tavor barrels.
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