National muzzle loading rifle association  see if one is in your area.  They hold shoots in my area from time to time.

Most gun ranges have “clubs”, i got with the local BP club and had one of their guys teach a few of us the ins and outs of BP, the Do and Donts, maybe ask in hometown forums. The learning curve is pretty short, easy to figure out, the key is to get a good basic “formula” for shooting and learn proper cleaning techniques

Here is my hunting load for Thompson White Mountain Carbine

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Although, it can be confusing with tons of opinions, https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com
Has all the info you need

I'll  say this , you will want to get a Range Rod , which is a heavy duty Ram Rod .
Not only does it make loading easier , but you can pull stuck balls out much more easily with the range rod with a big honking handle.

Make sure to get a Ball Screw with a centering collet ,and a patch screw , a cleaning jag .
I wouldnt start with 80 gr ,more like 60 .

Die Trying has probably worked up to the most accurate load in his rifle .

If you need any help let me know .

What is the other rifle ?

Edited out because I dumb thumbed it twice .

Yip, what he said, get you a nice tackle box and start adding to it, lol. Primers, powder, balls, patches, cleaning materials, spare parts , etc etc

Also, i agree with range rod, get a non wood one strictly for range, ive got probably a dozen rods and youll want to mark the rod where you know everything is seated properly (powder, patch and bullet)

Can see my mark on rod, if im seating ball, inknow its all the way bottomed out when mark reaches crown of barrel

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Yea load been worked up, when i let other ppl try it, i go down to 40-50gr

My long gun, fun to shoot but cant hit much, lol

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The red mark shows where the “wedge” goes, that is what holds barrel to stock

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Avoid dry firing as youll mushroom the nipple or get a rubber cap to put over nipple to absorb the impact when dry firing, i jus use heavy rubber caps.

Also those 2 stage triggers , the 2nd stage will literally be a hair trigger, like 1-2lb range

I cant help with flintlock, no nothing about them

Track of the wolf are great, leader in parts etc.

OK...if you're on Facebook, join the NMLRA page, the North-South Skirmish Association Page, and possibly the MLAIC (international BP federation) pages.  The first two can provide you with a lot of help.  The N-SSA also has a very active bulletin board.  Yes, they are primarily focused on Civil War arms...but their expertise goes well beyond that.

Having said that, it helps enormously to find someone in your local area who can give you a hand.  Ask around the local shooting clubs.

One thing you will need is gunpowder.  Substitute powders are a poor second-best for real black powder.  Goex is good, Old Eynesford and Swiss are the best.  3Fg will do nicely.  If you can get Swiss, get a pound of Null B to prime with...it's about 7F, gives lightning-fast ignition.  Compared to that, 4F is pathetically slow.

Patched round ball guns will shoot, but usually need some fine-tuning of the load.  A good rule of thumb is that ball diameter + ONE thickness of patch should = bore diameter between lands.  Initial load about 1.5 times the caliber, but be ready to go lower.  Try a variety of patch thicknesses and powder charges to determine best accuracy.

Duelist1954 on youtube has a lot of good videos with tips on loading and cleaning for blackpowder guns.

Lot of good advice and links to learn from.

All I can add is the #1 rule with Black Powder weapoins:

If you see the white cloud off smoke from the shot, that means 'clean me soon'.  

Looks like you got some nice smoke poles.  That percussion rifle looks like a Thompson Renegade.  The flinter looks good, too.  Are the bores in good shape?  That is usually an issue in used guns.  A gun may look pristine on the outside, but a previous owner may have failed at the #1 Rule and let the bore get corroded.

I will second the suggestion for;

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com

Also I really like http://www.americanlongrifles.org/forum/Both are a wealth of information.  They can get off track a bit with Historically correct/Period correct stuff, but on the basics, they are a great source of knowledge from a bunch of guys who have been doing this stuff for a long time.

Doc

FWIW the NRA puts out a good crayon level how to book on this

It's amazing, but I don't know a single person who has any experience with black powder.  I just read a few internet articles, and watched some YouTube videos before I fired my revolver for the first time

Need to figure out what the "plastic jug thing of powder" is (is it marked?)

It may be FFg or FFFg black powder, priming powder (FFFFg, which you don't want to put down the barrel of either rifle, only in the pan of the flintlock), or a BP substitute like Pyrodex (hopefully not).

If it's unknown it's probably a good idea to weigh it.  THe only difference between FFg and FFFg is granule size.  If it's FFFg a larger amount of powder will fit into the same volume designed for FFg.  But you can still use FFFg, and even FFFFg, you just need to weigh it, and not go by volume type measurements.

This is also useful for me.  I am beginning to look into some of the lineage and possible use of my muzzle loader.  It was made in Lancaster in 1774 as a .32 cal. flint lock.  Some years later, it was converted to a cap lock.  There's a double set trigger.  The stock is classic tiger stripe maple.  There's no engraving or decoration.  It's strictly utilitarian.  It was last fired in 1957 and then detail cleaned and oiled.

It's been in my family since it was built.