User Panel
Posted: 2/18/2018 5:45:53 PM EDT
Since I've mostly loaded rifle calibers and in fairly low volume a single stage has worked fine for me. Now that I started to load .357 and .44 I'm finding the extra steps make it a bit more tedious.
I'd like to resize and deprime and then tumble and I'd also prime off press so this works fine on a single stage. The tedious part is bell, charge, seat and crimp. On a single stage that's 3 times in and out of the press for each case (I seat and crimp separately). If I could do these steps on a progressive that would be a lot easier. I see Dillon sells the square deal which is for straight wall pistol calibers. Would this be the simplest option? Anything else to consider? |
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[#2]
The Square Deal is a great value for loading pistol rounds. Dillon has good customer service to boot.
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[#4]
A turret press like the lee classic turret may be just what you need. When I loaded on one I could do a round of pistol ammo in about 12 seconds if I primed off press. I never had the on press primer for mine...
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[#5]
A great companion press to the Dillon 650 is a CH 444 Press
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[#6]
Quoted:
A turret press like the lee classic turret may be just what you need. When I loaded on one I could do a round of pistol ammo in about 12 seconds if I primed off press. I never had the on press primer for mine... View Quote |
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[#7]
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[#8]
The biggest question is how deep is your wallet?
And how much are you willing to spend? Dillon 550 is a great press. Use carbide dies and you wouldn’t need to use any lube—-nothing to tumble off then. Prime on the press and the empty brass doesn’t come out until it’s a loaded round. Dillon 650 w/ casefeeder is next step up. It’s auto indexing and has room for a powder checker. Watch some videos on YouTube to see them in operation. |
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[#9]
Pistol ammo is a pain to load on a single stage. Anything less than a progressive (I recommend Dillon or Hornady) is almost painful.
Dillon's 550 will do anything you want with ease. I still use my single stage, I consider it a mandatory tool. So the answer to your question is start saving your money, you'll need it. I own two 550's, one set up for small primers, the other set up for large. I have Lee's cheapest press dedicated to a universal decapping die. I have several single stage presses set up for load development and rifle brass resizing operations. I prefer to decap the brass as soon as I get home from the range. I clean it and place it in storage if it's handgun brass. I resize it on a single stage if it's rifle brass. I then trim it and tumble it again to remove the lube. It then goes into storage. Having the rifle brass resized before running it through a progressive allows you to use a neck die only in stage 1. The finished round is ready for storage because no lube needs to be removed. Since trimming rifle brass must be done, you need to make two runs through your progressive if you don't resize on a single stage and trim first. |
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[#10]
Quoted: Why that over the SDB for pistol? The Dillon will do a round with every pull. View Quote Also, the SDB uses proprietary dies and is sort of annoying to change over. If I was going to use an sdb I would get one for every cartridge I planned to use, or I would get a 550 / 650. The classic turret is very versatile and instead of needing a $40-90 conversion he just needs a shellholder. And my bench is full of dillon presses, but it doesn't sound like OP needs that, since he's looking for something in the middle. The lee turret also autoindexes. I love my progressives but loading on an autoindex turret really isn't all that bad. |
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[#11]
Based on what you said, I'd look at turret presses for simplicity, or a 550 for volume with a little more manual control.
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[#12]
The Lee Classic Turret is the compromise that I reached.
You can buy extra toolheads for $12. You can also remove the auto-indexer in seconds and use it like a single stage. Since I want to wash my brass before sizing, then size/deprime it all before pin tumbling, I can have a head with just the FL sizer/deprimer. Pop that head off after pin tumbling, and put on a head with the primer/charger/seater/crimper with the auto-indexer and I'm done. Very cost effective, easy to maintain, and a reasonable compromise before I decide whether or not to go with a full on progressive. But really, the best thing is the single solid shell plate and the $12 tool heads. SO easy and cheap to maintain heads for all the calibers I plan to load. ETA: If I could get an electric trimmer to go on the head after the FL sizer/deprimer, that'd be the ultimate. |
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[#13]
Quoted:
The Lee Classic Turret is the compromise that I reached. You can buy extra toolheads for $12. You can also remove the auto-indexer in seconds and use it like a single stage. Since I want to wash my brass before sizing, then size/deprime it all before pin tumbling, I can have a head with just the FL sizer/deprimer. Pop that head off after pin tumbling, and put on a head with the primer/charger/seater/crimper with the auto-indexer and I'm done. Very cost effective, easy to maintain, and a reasonable compromise before I decide whether or not to go with a full on progressive. But really, the best thing is the single solid shell plate and the $12 tool heads. SO easy and cheap to maintain heads for all the calibers I plan to load. ETA: If I could get an electric trimmer to go on the head after the FL sizer/deprimer, that'd be the ultimate. View Quote The Lee quick trim dies are slow but I have found them very capable of making a consistent trim with a nice chamfer. |
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[#14]
Quoted: Why the SDB over the 650? Same reason, It's only triple the price. Also, the SDB uses proprietary dies and is sort of annoying to change over. If I was going to use an sdb I would get one for every cartridge I planned to use, or I would get a 550 / 650. The classic turret is very versatile and instead of needing a $40-90 conversion he just needs a shellholder. And my bench is full of dillon presses, but it doesn't sound like OP needs that, since he's looking for something in the middle. The lee turret also autoindexes. I love my progressives but loading on an autoindex turret really isn't all that bad. View Quote I have a SDB, a 550 with a case feeder, and a turret. To me, the SDB is the intersection of cost/ease of use. YMMV |
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[#15]
Quoted: You can, The Lee quick trim dies are slow but I have found them very capable of making a consistent trim with a nice chamfer. View Quote |
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[#16]
The Lee quick trim with the hand crank does and it appears to be the same cutter, so it is safe to assume so.
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[#17]
Lee cast turret press is great for 357/44mag I have one next to my 650xl. Its awsome for calibers that don't get shot up every range day. Caliber changes takes seconds and only costs $10+ and will use your current dies.
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[#18]
Thanks for the feedback. I don't think a turret is what I want. Still have to raise the ram for each step so not much improvement over a single stage.
The 550 and SDB are about the same price. Why a 550? It's manual index so one more step. Quoted:
The biggest question is how deep is your wallet? And how much are you willing to spend? Dillon 550 is a great press. Use carbide dies and you wouldn’t need to use any lube—-nothing to tumble off then. Prime on the press and the empty brass doesn’t come out until it’s a loaded round. Dillon 650 w/ casefeeder is next step up. It’s auto indexing and has room for a powder checker. Watch some videos on YouTube to see them in operation. View Quote The 650 is more than I want in both price and features. Maybe if I ever start to do bottleneck in volume it would make sense. |
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[#19]
I run two (2) Square deals. Long story how I ended up with two but I have setups for about 6 or 7 calibers so I have 2 calipers set to go instead of just one. I keep oneset for large primers and the other for small primers , I can swap calipers fairly fast.
The real beauty of the SD is it was designed around a pistol case (45acp first) and has perfect leverage for that use. I have used some of the 650s and have felt like I was rowing(lots of unneeded leverage) I also run a Lee Turret for rifle, true single stages I find to be a PITA spinning dies in and out. |
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[#20]
Dillon sells a version of the 550 without the priming system or the powder measure for $287.
You can add a powder measure and priming system later if you prefer. |
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[#21]
Quoted:
The Lee Classic Turret is the compromise that I reached. You can buy extra toolheads for $12. You can also remove the auto-indexer in seconds and use it like a single stage. Since I want to wash my brass before sizing, then size/deprime it all before pin tumbling, I can have a head with just the FL sizer/deprimer. Pop that head off after pin tumbling, and put on a head with the primer/charger/seater/crimper with the auto-indexer and I'm done. Very cost effective, easy to maintain, and a reasonable compromise before I decide whether or not to go with a full on progressive. But really, the best thing is the single solid shell plate and the $12 tool heads. SO easy and cheap to maintain heads for all the calibers I plan to load. View Quote |
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[#22]
Quoted:
Dillon sells a version of the 550 without the priming system or the powder measure for $287. You can add a powder measure and priming system later if you prefer. View Quote https://www.dillonprecision.com/bl-550-basic-loader_8_1_25792.html So do you have to use a Dillon PM or can I attach my RCBS? Also, is there a reason to use Dillon dies or just keep using the ones I have? What would be the benefit of the basic 550 over the square deal other than price? One thing that has kept me away from progressives is the powder charging. I always charge 25 or 50 and then check all the cases before seating. With a progressive you can't do that (I know they make powder checker dies but not quite the same). What about spot checking charges? I usually weigh each 5th or 10th throw as well. |
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[#23]
Quoted:
Score. That seems more or less what I'm looking for. Would be nice to have the powder measure though I guess that can be added. https://www.dillonprecision.com/bl-550-basic-loader_8_1_25792.html So do you have to use a Dillon PM or can I attach my RCBS? Also, is there a reason to use Dillon dies or just keep using the ones I have? you can use the ones you have, I do What would be the benefit of the basic 550 over the square deal other than price? I believe they sell a plate to use your own measure, it's not auto indexing One thing that has kept me away from progressives is the powder charging. I always charge 25 or 50 and then check all the cases before seating. With a progressive you can't do that (I know they make powder checker dies but not quite the same). What about spot checking charges? I usually weigh each 5th or 10th throw as well. View Quote ETA: formatting goofed up. Getting away from so many pulls of the handle, your shoulder will thank you. |
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[#24]
The BL550 honestly may be the worst of both worlds. It is literally an rl550 with the progressive systems stripped out, and you can buy those systems individually later to end up with a fully featured 550 at a higher price.
With the bl550 you don't have on press priming, automatic powder charging, and you don't even have the automatic case ejector unless you buy it later. Adding any of those things puts you pretty close to the SDB price and multiple things would be close to an rl550. If none of those things appeal to you then maybe it is the right choice. You will need to buy a caliber conversion for each cartridge with the 550 and it uses standard dies. I think they run around $46 new nowadays. You can buy an adapter to use other powder measures on your 550. In the past I have just sat a funnel in the station and manually charged the case when the ram was raised if I didn't want to expand the case or use a measure. |
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[#25]
The SDB uses proprietary dies, which can be a huge limiting factor. It also doesn't tolerate high volumes of reloading, meaning just short of commercial volumes. I was breaking parts more than I wanted and figured this out. Sure, Dillon stands behind them 100%, but it is best to pick the right tool for the job.
I thought about buying a single stage or even a stripped down 550 for various tasks, but just stayed with my 650. I can't say I haven't considered a second 650 or a stack of them, but changing out calibers really isn't that difficult with quick change kits. Keeping a blank tool head or two also allows you to do de-cap only or size only if that is your goal, and with that, you can also use the case feed to speed things up. |
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[#27]
There is only one Turret press worth having a Redding T-7.
The Dillon BL is a waste of money, and a money pit to upgrade it! The 550 is the most versatile press out there that balances speed with the ability to have better control with manu movement of the shell plate. The 550 can load other calibers many times with the change of a powder funnel alone, or powder funnel and locator pins. Cheap conversions. Dillon equipment retains it's value meaning most people can recoup 80 cents on the dollar down the road. No other brand can come close! |
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[#28]
Quoted:
Since I've mostly loaded rifle calibers and in fairly low volume a single stage has worked fine for me. Now that I started to load .357 and .44 I'm finding the extra steps make it a bit more tedious. I'd like to resize and deprime and then tumble and I'd also prime off press so this works fine on a single stage. The tedious part is bell, charge, seat and crimp. On a single stage that's 3 times in and out of the press for each case (I seat and crimp separately). If I could do these steps on a progressive that would be a lot easier. I see Dillon sells the square deal which is for straight wall pistol calibers. Would this be the simplest option? Anything else to consider? View Quote You asked about what was "between a single stage and a progressive." The Square Deal and the 550 are both full progressives. The only thing that would qualify would be the Lee Classic Turret press. It has a 4 hole turret that auto indexes. It is, in my opinion, one of the reloading presses ever made, and is what I usually recommend to new reloaders just getting started. You insert one empty case, and four handle pulls later you have a loaded cartridge. It is not as fast as a progressive, but it leaves a single stage in the dust. |
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[#29]
A progressive with only one die installed is a single stage.
A single stage will never be a progressive though. |
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[#30]
Quoted:
The BL550 honestly may be the worst of both worlds. It is literally an rl550 with the progressive systems stripped out, and you can buy those systems individually later to end up with a fully featured 550 at a higher price. With the bl550 you don't have on press priming, automatic powder charging, and you don't even have the automatic case ejector unless you buy it later. Adding any of those things puts you pretty close to the SDB price and multiple things would be close to an rl550. If none of those things appeal to you then maybe it is the right choice. You will need to buy a caliber conversion for each cartridge with the 550 and it uses standard dies. I think they run around $46 new nowadays. You can buy an adapter to use other powder measures on your 550. In the past I have just sat a funnel in the station and manually charged the case when the ram was raised if I didn't want to expand the case or use a measure. View Quote I guess by full progressive I was thinking more the tricked out ones with auto everything. |
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[#31]
Quoted:
Score. That seems more or less what I'm looking for. Would be nice to have the powder measure though I guess that can be added. https://www.dillonprecision.com/bl-550-basic-loader_8_1_25792.html So do you have to use a Dillon PM or can I attach my RCBS? Also, is there a reason to use Dillon dies or just keep using the ones I have? What would be the benefit of the basic 550 over the square deal other than price? One thing that has kept me away from progressives is the powder charging. I always charge 25 or 50 and then check all the cases before seating. With a progressive you can't do that (I know they make powder checker dies but not quite the same). What about spot checking charges? I usually weigh each 5th or 10th throw as well. View Quote I use a Redding BR-30 Competition measure for precision loads on mine. With ball powders I just verify the weight, with short cut extruded powders I again verify the weight, but I usually need to correct a .1 grain error in 1 or 2 rounds out of every 10. The Dillon measure is very good with ball powders, and you'll get accuracy within .1 gr, but with extruded powders you'll want to drop the charge .1 to .2 grain light and then trickle up. The keys to accuracy with a Dillon measure are to be very consistent in operating the press, ensure that the press is very solidly mounted, and use the smallest charge bar that has adequate capacity. Regular dies work fine in a Dillon measure. If you are doing precision loads, get a Whidden floating tool head and clamp kit, and even regular dies will give you run out of .001" or less. With the stock tool head, no clamp kit and regular dies run out will be around .002" |
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[#32]
Quoted: If I was going to buy Dillon, I'd get at least a 550 and preferably a 650. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes First, the selection of cartridge conversion kits is much less for the 650 and they are much more expensive. Second, the 650 is auto indexed, which means the shell plate revolves every time you pull the handle. this makes it harder to use the press as a single stage or turret press and it makes it harder to correct any mistake or irregularity that occurs on the shell plate. The 650 is great for cranking off pistol rounds, but the 550 is far superior for rifle rounds. Quoted:
A progressive with only one die installed is a single stage. A single stage will never be a progressive though. With a 650 it's more complicated to operate it as a single stage press, and removing all the other dies is probably the easiest way to accomplish single stage operation. |
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[#33]
Quoted: The 650 has two issues when it comes to loading rifle ammo, or precision ammo. First, the selection of cartridge conversion kits is much less for the 650 and they are much more expensive. Second, the 650 is auto indexed, which means the shell plate revolves every time you pull the handle. this makes it harder to use the press as a single stage or turret press and it makes it harder to correct any mistake or irregularity that occurs on the shell plate. The 650 is great for cranking off pistol rounds, but the 550 is far superior for rifle rounds. You can install all the dies in a 550 tool head and still use the press as a single stage, since it is manually indexed and the shell plate only rotates when you manually rotate it. With a 650 it's more complicated to operate it as a single stage press, and removing all the other dies is probably the easiest way to accomplish single stage operation. View Quote If you haven't guessed I'm not buying that the 550 is "far superior for rifle rounds" other than a few oddball calibers, the 650 has much more potential as to output and versatility over the 550. The two things the 550 has is the cheaper cost, and if your shoot a lot of something rare it has more caliber conversions available. |
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[#34]
Quoted:
Dillon sells a version of the 550 without the priming system or the powder measure for $287. You can add a powder measure and priming system later if you prefer. View Quote Stripped of all the go fast stuff, it makes a 550 into a turret press. In the future you could upgrade it into a 550 if you wanted. |
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[#35]
All things considered, seems the RL550C might be the best option. Not much more than the basic 550 and it's ready to go.
With sized, trimmed and tumbled brass I'm thinking you can use the 550 to do all the steps but can you still prime if not resizing? Seems that's one step - up to resize and down to prime. Would you just do the same thing but without the sizer die? What if you wanted to skip on press priming too? Can you remove the priming system or otherwise not have it interfere? If you wanted to trickle charge, how does that work? Remove the PM all together and just weight and drop through the funnel? |
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[#36]
Quoted:
All things considered, seems the RL550C might be the best option. Not much more than the basic 550 and it's ready to go. With sized, trimmed and tumbled brass I'm thinking you can use the 550 to do all the steps but can you still prime if not resizing? Seems that's one step - up to resize and down to prime. Would you just do the same thing but without the sizer die? What if you wanted to skip on press priming too? Can you remove the priming system or otherwise not have it interfere? If you wanted to trickle charge, how does that work? Remove the PM all together and just weight and drop through the funnel? View Quote The "stripped" down 550. |
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[#37]
Quoted:
All things considered, seems the RL550C might be the best option. Not much more than the basic 550 and it's ready to go. With sized, trimmed and tumbled brass I'm thinking you can use the 550 to do all the steps but can you still prime if not resizing? Seems that's one step - up to resize and down to prime. Would you just do the same thing but without the sizer die? What if you wanted to skip on press priming too? Can you remove the priming system or otherwise not have it interfere? If you wanted to trickle charge, how does that work? Remove the PM all together and just weight and drop through the funnel? View Quote Deactivating the primer system would just be a matter of unhooking one spring, anyway. It would take about two seconds. Removing it altogether is a matter of two bolts, I think. I sold my 550 for a 650 a good while back but it is a very capable press. If you want to trickle charge you could just remove the measure and either use a funnel when the ram is raised or use a rifle charging die. |
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[#38]
Quoted:
The 650 has two issues when it comes to loading rifle ammo, or precision ammo. First, the selection of cartridge conversion kits is much less for the 650 and they are much more expensive. Second, the 650 is auto indexed, which means the shell plate revolves every time you pull the handle. this makes it harder to use the press as a single stage or turret press and it makes it harder to correct any mistake or irregularity that occurs on the shell plate. The 650 is great for cranking off pistol rounds, but the 550 is far superior for rifle rounds. You can install all the dies in a 550 tool head and still use the press as a single stage, since it is manually indexed and the shell plate only rotates when you manually rotate it. With a 650 it's more complicated to operate it as a single stage press, and removing all the other dies is probably the easiest way to accomplish single stage operation. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: If I was going to buy Dillon, I'd get at least a 550 and preferably a 650. First, the selection of cartridge conversion kits is much less for the 650 and they are much more expensive. Second, the 650 is auto indexed, which means the shell plate revolves every time you pull the handle. this makes it harder to use the press as a single stage or turret press and it makes it harder to correct any mistake or irregularity that occurs on the shell plate. The 650 is great for cranking off pistol rounds, but the 550 is far superior for rifle rounds. Quoted:
A progressive with only one die installed is a single stage. A single stage will never be a progressive though. With a 650 it's more complicated to operate it as a single stage press, and removing all the other dies is probably the easiest way to accomplish single stage operation. |
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[#39]
Quoted:
All things considered, seems the RL550C might be the best option. Not much more than the basic 550 and it's ready to go. With sized, trimmed and tumbled brass I'm thinking you can use the 550 to do all the steps but can you still prime if not resizing? Seems that's one step - up to resize and down to prime. Would you just do the same thing but without the sizer die? What if you wanted to skip on press priming too? Can you remove the priming system or otherwise not have it interfere? If you wanted to trickle charge, how does that work? Remove the PM all together and just weight and drop through the funnel? View Quote |
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[#40]
Quoted:
The advantage I see to the 650 over the 550 is the powder check die. I started reloading with a 550, I sold it to upgrade to a 650, although I may get another 550 at some point (or just a single stage press for brass prep). Caliber conversions ARE more expensive on the 650, and it does take more effort to get it adjusted, I typically disable the auto indexing until all the dies are adjusted properly, the other headache I've run into is 9mm brass sticking in the case feed tube, which isn't necessarily quick to resolve (although I've seen reports that they've redesigned the case feeder, but no details on what has changed). View Quote |
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[#41]
I suppose you could bell and charge in station one if you didn't want to use the safety return on the dillon pm, which attaches at station 2.
I would either use a powder fluffy enough to eliminate the possibility of a double entirely, or seat and crimp in one stage if i was absolutely dead set on using a powder checker. I would personally consider the checker extraneous though with the 550, I don't think it would be worth doing the unusual workflow you describe. Pistol can easily be done in one pass on the 550. |
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[#42]
Quoted:
Couldn't use the powder check die in a 550 too? I know there are only 4 die slots, but if you used resized and primed cases could station 1 be bell and charge, 2 - powder check, 3 - bullet seat and 4 - crimp? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
The advantage I see to the 650 over the 550 is the powder check die. I started reloading with a 550, I sold it to upgrade to a 650, although I may get another 550 at some point (or just a single stage press for brass prep). Caliber conversions ARE more expensive on the 650, and it does take more effort to get it adjusted, I typically disable the auto indexing until all the dies are adjusted properly, the other headache I've run into is 9mm brass sticking in the case feed tube, which isn't necessarily quick to resolve (although I've seen reports that they've redesigned the case feeder, but no details on what has changed). |
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[#43]
A power check die makes some sense on the auto indexed 650 if you've configured it with all the go fast options
However, I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds with a 550, and I've never seen any need for a power check die on a 550. You're much better served by one of the aftermarket lights that mount in the center hole. That will allow you to easily visually inspect each charged case. And, whether you run a 650, a 550 or a SDB, the most important thing is to stop and check the status at each shell plate position if you are interrupted, or if something happening on the shell plate causes you to get out of your normal routine. |
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[#44]
Quoted:
A power check die makes some sense on the auto indexed 650 if you've configured it with all the go fast options However, I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds with a 550, and I've never seen any need for a power check die on a 550. You're much better served by one of the aftermarket lights that mount in the center hole. That will allow you to easily visually inspect each charged case. And, whether you run a 650, a 550 or a SDB, the most important thing is to stop and check the status at each shell plate position if you are interrupted, or if something happening on the shell plate causes you to get out of your normal routine. View Quote That way you will know where you are when you start loading again. |
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