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Posted: 9/10/2018 10:45:21 PM EDT
I dont mean having the suppressor thread onto the compensator either.  Just more along the lines of what is the most efficient design to incorporate in the first/blast section that will disrupt the most gas and play nice/work well with the first baffle.

I will incorporate it into the cap, either machine and weld it in or thread it in.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 7:36:14 AM EDT
[#1]
Do anything to get the gas away from the bore-line.
Sig and Griffin have very simplistic examples.




Just be sure to leave enough material at the forward portion. This will be taking the brunt of muzzle blast and subject to the most erosion.

Sig's brake is 2-piece (food for thought )

Link Posted: 9/11/2018 8:21:59 AM EDT
[#2]
I like the Q Cherry Bomb.

Link Posted: 9/11/2018 8:28:06 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:

Just be sure to leave enough material at the forward portion. This will be taking the brunt of muzzle blast and subject to the most erosion.
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It's replaceable so don't worry about it.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 10:21:24 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
It's replaceable so don't worry about it.  
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Not if built as the OP specified. That would then fall under replacing a baffle/endcap... no-go for a non-SOT.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 10:24:03 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
Not if built as the OP specified. That would then fall under replacing a baffle/endcap... no-go for a non-SOT.
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As OP described, integrating it into the can,yes.
I don't see the downside of using an actual QD mount, since mounts explicitly do not fall in that category.  The fact that the mount is a re-buildable brake is irrelevant.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:03:14 AM EDT
[#6]
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Oooohhh nice thanks
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:07:35 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Not if built as the OP specified. That would then fall under replacing a baffle/endcap... no-go for a non-SOT.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's replaceable so don't worry about it.  
Not if built as the OP specified. That would then fall under replacing a baffle/endcap... no-go for a non-SOT.
You're right.  It's a bad idea to integrate a mount like that.  It removes all of the advantages of having a QD mount and doesn't provide any advantages at all.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:08:51 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

As OP described, integrating it into the can,yes.
I don't see the downside of using an actual QD mount, since mounts explicitly do not fall in that category.  The fact that the mount is a re-buildable brake is irrelevant.
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Because I am cheap and I dont like comps on SBRs.  Plus I dont have full auto and shoot more subs then supers.
But I can not deny the appeal if you only have a dozen or so rifles to suppress.

BUT the two piece Sig style mentioned does give me a few ideas
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:10:53 AM EDT
[#9]
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Which one of these works best, this radial port style, or the large, single chamber style, inside a suppressor?
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:17:31 AM EDT
[#10]
Instead of welding and making it a permanent part of the suppressor, rocksett the QD mount to the thread adapter.  Then you can change it at will with just a little work but still use it as a direct thread.
Link Posted: 9/11/2018 11:25:09 AM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
Instead of welding and making it a permanent part of the suppressor, rocksett the QD mount to the thread adapter.  Then you can change it at will with just a little work but still use it as a direct thread.
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I like that sig style.  so the can will screw to the comp and the comp will unscrew from the barrel.  Just like using different barrel bushings for one can on multiple hosts.  No rockset needed.  Once the comp is off, you are left with basically a thread protector on the end of the barrel.

I think we are agreeing
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 7:55:29 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:It's replaceable so don't worry about it.  
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Don't worry about what, the <1gram of weight from an additional 50 thou of material?
Just because it's replaceable doesn't mean you do a half-ass job making something

The QD idea isn't a bad one, but only if you actually need it.
I prefer DT as I don't keep swapping hosts during shooting sessions.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 8:11:38 AM EDT
[#13]
I just bought one of these for a 308 16" Barrel. The price is right. I have yet to try it though.
http://www.kineti-tech.com/kineti-tech-zero-recoil-muzzle-brake-with-13-16-x-16-threaded-sleeve/
The build quality is quite nice. You can also choose different components to build your own. http://www.kineti-tech.com/create-a-2-piece-muzzle-brake-with-cucussion-redirector-sleeve/
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 8:17:40 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Don't worry about what, the <1gram of weight from an additional 50 thou of material?
Just because it's replaceable doesn't mean you do a half-ass job making something
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It's not half assing it.  Making it too thick can create a tunneling effect that can negatively affect accuracy.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 8:39:28 AM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:It's not half assing it.  Making it too thick can create a tunneling effect that can negatively affect accuracy.
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Have a look at JP's Recoil Eliminator.
In ~3/4" of travel, the bullet passes through 2 sections of 1/8" thk steel baffles.
If your accuracy concern had any merit, it wouldn't be ranked as one of the leading brakes for keeping the rifle on target.

Same principle, just added to the internals of a suppressor.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 8:45:03 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Have a look at JP's Recoil Eliminator.
In ~3/4" of travel, the bullet passes through 2 sections of 1/8" thk steel baffles.
If your accuracy concern had any merit, it wouldn't be ranked as one of the leading brakes for keeping the rifle on target.

Same principle, just added to the internals of a suppressor.
View Quote
An 1/8" baffle isn't too thick.

This is, in my experience.  heavy too...  I'm glad they came out with more options recently.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 9:27:49 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:
It's not half assing it.  Making it too thick can create a tunneling effect that can negatively affect accuracy.
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So in your opinion, what is the best style comp to use, the gill style, radial, one or two chamber....  some of the posted examples are simple, one or two small chamber styles.  Is this the best design, the style that works the best in a sealed tube with baffles?
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 9:28:31 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I just bought one of these for a 308 16" Barrel. The price is right. I have yet to try it though.
http://www.kineti-tech.com/kineti-tech-zero-recoil-muzzle-brake-with-13-16-x-16-threaded-sleeve/
The build quality is quite nice. You can also choose different components to build your own. http://www.kineti-tech.com/create-a-2-piece-muzzle-brake-with-cucussion-redirector-sleeve/
View Quote
Neat...  thank you
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 9:42:12 AM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So in your opinion, what is the best style comp to use, the gill style, radial, one or two chamber....  some of the posted examples are simple, one or two small chamber styles.  Is this the best design, the style that works the best in a sealed tube with baffles?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
It's not half assing it.  Making it too thick can create a tunneling effect that can negatively affect accuracy.
So in your opinion, what is the best style comp to use, the gill style, radial, one or two chamber....  some of the posted examples are simple, one or two small chamber styles.  Is this the best design, the style that works the best in a sealed tube with baffles?
I use Griffin Minimalists and Paladins.  I haven't tried all of the radials, but in my experience they overcompensate and push the muzzle down, so I don't care for them.
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 10:07:22 AM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Have a look at JP's Recoil Eliminator.
In ~3/4" of travel, the bullet passes through 2 sections of 1/8" thk steel baffles.
If your accuracy concern had any merit, it wouldn't be ranked as one of the leading brakes for keeping the rifle on target.

Same principle, just added to the internals of a suppressor.
View Quote
Hmmm.  The biggest hurdle here would be keeping the bore aligned along the centerline of the can and the rest of the baffle stack.  But this has to be the most efficient at stripping expanding gas....  or is not used because it does not play well with baffles?
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 10:23:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Hmmm.  The biggest hurdle here would be keeping the bore aligned along the centerline of the can and the rest of the baffle stack.  But this has to be the most efficient at stripping expanding gas....  or is not used because it does not play well with baffles?
View Quote
I'd imagine it's not used because the tube is turned the wrong way to make a conventional suppressor

Link Posted: 9/12/2018 10:51:56 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I'd imagine it's not used because the tube is turned the wrong way to make a conventional suppressor

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/XmMAAOSwsW9YyNFA/s-l300.jpg
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imagine that turned down and used in the blast section/ before the first baffle, or even fabricated in a tubular shape, but preserving the large, concave blast surfaces.  Would it strip a lot of gas?  Would it work with the baffle stack?  If you whittle enough of it down, it would resemble a gill comp.  Hmmmm
Link Posted: 9/12/2018 10:55:52 AM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Hmmm.  The biggest hurdle here would be keeping the bore aligned along the centerline of the can and the rest of the baffle stack.  But this has to be the most efficient at stripping expanding gas....  or is not used because it does not play well with baffles?
View Quote
The design is best due to redirecting the gas perpendicular to projectile path.
It's essentially the same as the Sig and Griffin, in my first post, but, clearly, using far greater surface are to achieve effectiveness. Any brake with this similar pattern should attain a promising level of success. I recommended those 2 due to their shorter length, allowing for an increase in baffle count.
Link Posted: 9/28/2018 3:02:05 PM EDT
[#24]
I'll be doing something similar on a can for my dad (we're both on the trust) for the same reasons.  He has a bolt action hunting rifle that he does not want a brake or flash hider on, just threads.  I'll be rocksetting a GA Minimalist or Paladin into the adapter, so it won't be permanent.  All of my centerfire cans are set up for GA QD mounts, so its easier to stay that route.
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