My uncle just dropped these guns off at my house.   He found them while cleaning up and going through some of his father's belongings.  Neither of his sons wants them, so they are now mine.  I know one is a Liberator pistol, and the other is a Japanese Nambu, but what type?  I know prices vary due to the condition, and these are not in great shape.  No desire to sell them, but can anyone give me an idea on value?

Attached File

https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2014/4/23/world-war-ii-liberator-pistol/

World War II “Liberator” Pistol

Gun: “Liberator,” .45 ACP, single-shot pistol

Condition: NRA Modern Fair (20 to 60 percent)

Approximate Value: $2,250 to $2,750

Perhaps no other handgun in U.S. history has been burdened with as many misconceptions about its post-production history as the “Liberator.” Conceived by the U.S. Joint Psychological Warfare Committee in early 1942 without any input from the armed services, production of 1 million Liberators was approved by Gen. Eisenhower and others. This new .45 ACP single-shot pistol would be code-named the “flare projector” (Model FP-45) or “flare signal pistol” to protect its real identity.

After representatives of U.S. Army Ordnance met with both the Inland and Guide Lamp Divisions of General Motors in Washington, D.C., on May 12, 1942, it was decided that Guide Lamp would be the better choice, since Inland was already deeply engaged in U.S. M1 Carbine production.

The FP-45 Liberator was designed to be made quickly and simply, with a useful range of less than 50 ft. It took longer to load one than to make it. All 23 unserialized parts were stamped from corrosion-resistant metal with the exception of the cocking knob, 4" non-rifled barrel and several other small parts. The complete pistol kit included a waxed cardboard box, 10 cartridges (headstamped FA-42 for Frankford Arsenal, 1942), an instruction diagram (no words) and a wooden shell-extractor dowel. It was completed at a cost of $2.10 each, while the Liberator itself was produced for only $1.73 per unit.

Although Liberator production went well, the distribution process was a disaster. Very few of these ever made it into Europe and certainly were never air-dropped in quantity or at all. Gen. MacArthur committed to 50,000 pistols, most of which were shipped to Australia in 1943 for redistribution to occupied islands. This left approximately 450,000 handguns remaining, which the Army no longer wanted, and they ended up in the custody of the newly formed OSS (Office of Strategic Services), which nicknamed this pistol the Liberator or “Woolworth” gun.

It is thought that more than a half-million Liberators were either melted or dumped into various oceans or seas after the war. Very few G.I.s or Allies in any World War II theater ever saw a Liberator, and if they did, many thought it was a cheap Japanese “suicide special,” since it was unmarked and not part of standard U.S. ordnance. As a result, remaining specimens are very hard to come by, and condition doesn’t seem to be much of a factor in pricing, as long as it’s original. Not that long ago, Liberators were selling for $750 to $1,000, but now prices typically start at $1,750 and can top $4,000 for a nice original pistol kit.

-S.P. Fjestad, Author & Publisher, Blue Book of Gun Values

Originally published March 2007.

Liberator pistols are hard to sell at $1200-$1500, even in good condition and not missing parts.

Yours seems to be having problems like a bent cocking knob, rust, and possibly missing the floor plate.
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The Nambu is a pre or early/mid war, and has some rust issues. Need to see the other side for the date.

Do you have the magazine? Matching numbers also separates a $500-$700 shooter and a $1000-$1500 matching example.

As far as the Nambu, NEVER dry fire it or let the bolt go/slam on its own. It WILL break the firing pin, which is a numbered part.

Thanks.   All the numbers I can see match on the  Nambu.   Floor plate is on the Liberator.   Trying to decide if they are worth getting cleaned up.  Unfortunately, they spent many years in a damp basement

Completely erase from your head the idea of getting them "cleaned up", as in the idea of getting them restored.

That will ruin their value worse than leaving them as-is.

On that matter, most gunsmiths will know little about the Nambu, and even less about the Liberator.
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The most you could do is 0000 steel wool and oil.

Light pressure must be used or you will leave scratches or remove bluing.
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Unless you know what you are doing though, it is best just to give them a good wiping with oil.

Tag.

Always worth getting cleaned up.

Depends what OP means by "cleaned up".

Restoration would be a no-no.

Stopping further rust and removing active rust is different, but must be handled correctly. It isn't breaking out the rust remover or starting up the wire wheel.
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See my above post.

This, more good collectible guns are ruined value wise by people "cleaning them up"

Taking a wire wheel to it is bad...

Gently and judiciously cleaning with 0000 steel wool, or even better, bronze wool, and oil is about all you want to do...

Removing any loose surface rust without damaging (i.e. scratching the shit out of) the underlying finish or metal is what you want....

Both are well worth some gentle cleaning and oiling...

I'd be happier than a pig in shit if someone gave me those, as is!

Of course, I would have to get mags, holster,  cleaning rod and tool, spare pin, shoulder strap, and box of ammo to complete the Nambu rig...the Japs had quite a bit in their Nambu rigs!

So bead blasting and cold blue is a bad idea??

My limit of cleaning it up at home is some CLP and a nylon gun brush, maybe some steel wool too.   I was just wondering if they're worth taking to someone else who has a little more knowledge than me to clean up the internals on the Nambu.  I've never even held one before

It's a November 1943, with all numbers matching, even the inside of the wood grips are stamped

I do have the magazine.   He also gave me a leather holster with it.  Thank you for the info about dry firing it

Yeah, bead blasting and cold blue would be bad.
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A nylon brush with oil would be good. 0000 steel wool (make sure it's 0000) is better for stubborn rust though, but more chance to damage the remaining finish.

Like I said before, nearly all gunsmiths will have little to no experience with a Nambu.

The Nambu is pretty simple to disassemble yourself. No need to completely disassemble down to the last pin, but field stripping and removing the grips would work to remove surface rust.

Just careful of the small springs, pins, and such.
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This is a full disassembly, but you get the idea.

Again no dry firing or letting the bolt drop on its own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pSYd-Nnx_4

I forgot to add the emoji to my post.  Thanks again for the info