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Posted: 12/15/2018 9:32:48 PM EDT
[#1]
Boiled Linseed Oil. Been used by Military and Civilians since wood became a thing on rifles.
Just don't pack all the rags into a tight container. |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 9:33:02 PM EDT
[#2]
Go to the health foods store and buy a bottle of Barlean's Raw flax seed oil. Use it sparingly and put the stock in the sun between coats. No more than 1 coat per day, in the winter it may take longer than that.
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Posted: 12/15/2018 9:35:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Great, thanks.
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Posted: 12/15/2018 9:54:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Linseed oil and flax seed oil are the same thing.
"Boiled" linseed oil was actually boiled back in the old days, but now it has chemical hardeners added instead. I use RAW linseed oil. You can buy a gallon of it at the hardware store, and soak your whole stock in it, then pour the leftovers back in the container for reuse. Old, dry stocks will soak it up like crazy, especially into the end grain. Oily rags heat up as they dry and can spontaneously combust. I just throw them in our wood stove, but if you don't have a wood stove, put them in an airtight metal container. Preferably outside. |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 10:00:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...Raw flax seed oil... ETA nevermind, Rodent beat me to it. I like flaxseed oil (from the hippie aisle at Fred Meyer) and pure tung oil. Used to use BLO but have moved away from it over the years. Still use it on tool handles and such, always applied with rubber gloves. Had enough exposure to heavy metals in my life so far. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 1:06:06 AM EDT
[#6]
Gunny's Paste (turpentine, beeswax, BLO) works really well, but I can't remember where I bought it (i think it might have been Toms 1/3 mix, webpage is the gunstockdoctor).
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Posted: 12/16/2018 8:43:14 AM EDT
[#7]
I use to buy/use BLO (boiled linseed oil). Worked great, till it didn't. Ran into a couple H&R M1 Garand stocks that just looked sandblasted after the BLO. Multiple coats never seemed to make it better.
Asked a more experienced rifle guy and he recommended Tung Oil. Got some tung oil and put it right over top of the BLO on those two stocks. In 3 coats I could see the difference. I put a total of 5 or 6 coats on them and they sure got pretty looking. Since then, it's tung oil for my old GI rifle stocks. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 9:25:21 AM EDT
[#8]
I prefer tung oil.
50/50 mix with mineral spirits and tung oil for the first few coats. Helps it soak in deeper. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 11:50:36 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I prefer tung oil. 50/50 mix with mineral spirits and tung oil for the first few coats. Helps it soak in deeper. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 1:12:32 PM EDT
[#10]
Tung or Linseed oil would be correct. I'd mix either 50/50 with mineral spirits.
Just beware not all tung oil is pure tung oil. Many have additives like urethane and will destroy all collectors value of the stock. Whatever oil you use, combustion is a possibility with the rags. Store in a ziplock in your FREEZER to reuse, fill with water to dispose. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 2:14:18 PM EDT
[#11]
It looks like Formby's Tung Oil is not "pure" tung oil by a long shot... Too bad, it's available at both the Home Depot and Lowes near me. I guess I'll have to order the stuff. I see both "Hopes" and "Real Milk Paint" brands that are listed as pure, and fairly inexpensive. Is there a better brand?
What type of mineral spirits to cut it with? Will odorless mineral spirits work? I am using odorless to clean/degrease some parts, so having fewer chemicals to keep up with would be helpful. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 5:45:42 PM EDT
[#12]
I use Real Milk Paint... had the same jug for a few years now. Works great. No experience with the other brand.
Odorless mineral spirits will work fine. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 9:54:33 PM EDT
[#13]
I asked the same question when I bought my SC '03-A3 a few years ago. The consensus was Tung oil. I went with the Real Milk brand off Amazon. Haven't applied it yet.
I was also advised to follow these recommendations: http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/ |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 10:16:29 PM EDT
[#14]
Meh, this shouldn't be this difficult....if you want a realistic, what they used finish, real BLO or raw linseed is the way to go.
Tung oil was used on M1 stock at the factory, until Tung oil became scarce, and they went to BLO.... But the only thing issued to GI's through at least Korea was linseed oil. Are you going to be carrying it outside in rain? Through snow storms? Then it doesn't really matter how "water proof" it is...yes, real Tung Oil will dry to a harder, more water resistant finish, but then again, Poly would be even better, but who would put that crap on a fine collectible WWII firearm? Linseed oil has always served me well, and for good, correct look, it can't be beat. And it protects all my milsurps from the monsoons in my gun room... Seriously, don't overthink it, just use what millions of GI's used....linseed oil. |
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Posted: 12/17/2018 12:19:13 AM EDT
[#15]
OP, if you are worried about the oily rag self combusting just rinse it with warm water until most of the oil is out of it then let it dry out in the sink but don't ball it up. If it is balled up and still oily and there is a draft like a fan running near it, yes it most definitely will self combust but if you rinse it out and let it dry flat and open you are safe. You don't need a huge patch of rag to wipe down your stock with either, 3" by 3 " of an old cotton t-shirt will be fine. Also be advised that linseed oil takes a long time to fully dry. Once a day for a week, once a month for a year, once a year for the rest of it's life is the old saying for application.
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Posted: 12/17/2018 9:19:55 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, if you are worried about the oily rag self combusting just rinse it with warm water until most of the oil is out of it then let it dry out in the sink but don't ball it up. If it is balled up and still oily and there is a draft like a fan running near it, yes it most definitely will self combust but if you rinse it out and let it dry flat and open you are safe. You don't need a huge patch of rag to wipe down your stock with either, 3" by 3 " of an old cotton t-shirt will be fine. Also be advised that linseed oil takes a long time to fully dry. Once a day for a week, once a month for a year, once a year for the rest of it's life is the old saying for application. The other secret with Linseed oil, BLO or raw, is use your fingers/hand to rub it in, small amounts at a time....you don't need to drench it... The first go around, I will leave it fairly wet, and let it soak in for a few hours to a day, then go back and rub it in good with my hand....you really want to get some friction going, so you feel the heat, that helps it absorb too...then wipe down with a clean soft cotton rag, and let dry for another day or so.... Its all I use, and its never let me down... |
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Posted: 12/17/2018 10:54:11 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That is the rule of thumb I have always heard... The other secret with Linseed oil, BLO or raw, is use your fingers/hand to rub it in, small amounts at a time....you don't need to drench it... The first go around, I will leave it fairly wet, and let it soak in for a few hours to a day, then go back and rub it in good with my hand....you really want to get some friction going, so you feel the heat, that helps it absorb too...then wipe down with a clean soft cotton rag, and let dry for another day or so.... Its all I use, and its never let me down... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OP, if you are worried about the oily rag self combusting just rinse it with warm water until most of the oil is out of it then let it dry out in the sink but don't ball it up. If it is balled up and still oily and there is a draft like a fan running near it, yes it most definitely will self combust but if you rinse it out and let it dry flat and open you are safe. You don't need a huge patch of rag to wipe down your stock with either, 3" by 3 " of an old cotton t-shirt will be fine. Also be advised that linseed oil takes a long time to fully dry. Once a day for a week, once a month for a year, once a year for the rest of it's life is the old saying for application. The other secret with Linseed oil, BLO or raw, is use your fingers/hand to rub it in, small amounts at a time....you don't need to drench it... The first go around, I will leave it fairly wet, and let it soak in for a few hours to a day, then go back and rub it in good with my hand....you really want to get some friction going, so you feel the heat, that helps it absorb too...then wipe down with a clean soft cotton rag, and let dry for another day or so.... Its all I use, and its never let me down... |
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Posted: 12/17/2018 11:45:01 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The other secret with Linseed oil, BLO or raw, is use your fingers/hand to rub it in, small amounts at a time....you don't need to drench it... |
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Posted: 3/2/2019 7:30:57 PM EDT
[#19]
I bought a quart of boiled linseed oil today, and I’m going to attack my stock shortly. I have a couple of questions on the process.
Do I apply the oil to the inside of the stock and hand guard, or just the outside? I can’t tell if the insides of these pieces were ever oiled, though there is still Cosmoline in the butt trap - I’ve just about finished getting it out and will do some gentle heating to get the remainder out. After the oil is applied, can the stock stay indoors while the oil cures? Basically is there any fume or odor problem while the oil cures? Is oiling likely to help reveal stamps in the wood? I haven’t found a cartouche yet, and I’m fairly certain this was an arsenal rebuild at some point. I’m not expecting to find anything amazing, but I’d like to have an idea of the provenance of the stock. Thanks for all the help! |
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Posted: 3/2/2019 7:47:28 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought a quart of boiled linseed oil today, and I’m going to attack my stock shortly. I have a couple of questions on the process. Do I apply the oil to the inside of the stock and hand guard, or just the outside? You can wipe down the insides with some, it won't hurt, again, no need to drench it I can’t tell if the insides of these pieces were ever oiled, though there is still Cosmoline in the butt trap - I’ve just about finished getting it out and will do some gentle heating to get the remainder out. After the oil is applied, can the stock stay indoors while the oil cures? Basically is there any fume or odor problem while the oil cures? Sure, I do it in my gun room, no fumes or odor, maybe just a little BLO odor, but I like it... Is oiling likely to help reveal stamps in the wood? It certainly can help to bring them out if there and faint I haven’t found a cartouche yet, and I’m fairly certain this was an arsenal rebuild at some point. I’m not expecting to find anything amazing, but I’d like to have an idea of the provenance of the stock. Thanks for all the help! By the way, where you at? Dyess? Ft. Worth? South? |
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Posted: 3/3/2019 6:50:59 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It really does a lot to improve the look, especially with US walnut stocks, once it soaks in and dries it brings out the deeper reddish color usually...you should be happy. By the way, where you at? Dyess? Ft. Worth? South? I retired out of Lackland and stayed in San Antonio. |
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Posted: 3/3/2019 6:58:21 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I use Real Milk Paint... had the same jug for a few years now. Works great. No experience with the other brand. Odorless mineral spirits will work fine. Bought it on amazon |
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Posted: 3/4/2019 11:04:31 AM EDT
[#23]
Be careful with the raw if you already have the stock color you like.
I picked up a perfect 1903A3 with a nice red brown stock. I had BLO, Fake Tung Oil Finish, and a bottle of Grumbachers (art supplier) raw linseed oil. I put the raw on. About a year later my oxidized red stock turned to a chocolate brown. Still authentic and many out there just like it but I really liked the red brown look that I lost. I believe the boiled linseed would have fared better for the red stock. I gave the bottle of RLO back to my oil painter mom. |
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Posted: 3/4/2019 8:59:18 PM EDT
[#24]
I've been sidetracked for a bit and haven't had the chance to start applying oil.
I'm still wanting assurance that I can do the work indoors, and that I can keep the stock indoors while the oil soaks in and cures. Does anyone oil the insides of their stocks? |
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Posted: 3/4/2019 9:09:03 PM EDT
[#25]
I do all my stocks in my gun room, and let them dry in there too...there are no issues.....people take raw linseed oil as a health supplement, if you can swallow capsules of it, you can oil stocks and let them dry inside with it...it will be fine.
Again, the inside parts? Sure you can rub some in there...unless its really bonedry, I never bother, mu guns stay inside my gun room all the time anyway. I don't like to drench the stocks in BLO, too much, and when it gets warm, it will seep out like cosmoline soaked stocks. I have well over 100 milsurps sitting in my room now, never had an issue with BLO... |
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Posted: 3/4/2019 9:28:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Great to hear. Thanks!
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Posted: 3/4/2019 10:16:05 PM EDT
[#27]
I fooled around with BLO for the first time back at Christmas time. Got an FR8 that someone had applied a varnish to and I used citri-strip to take the poly finish off and I applied BLO. I too was worried about rags combusting and what not. Turned out to not be an issue, I did all my work in the garage and made sure to rinse the rags out with water really good and then laid them out flat on the concrete floor to dry.
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Posted: 3/4/2019 10:23:58 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I fooled around with BLO for the first time back at Christmas time. Got an FR8 that someone had applied a varnish to and I used citri-strip to take the poly finish off and I applied BLO. I too was worried about rags combusting and what not. Turned out to not be an issue, I did all my work in the garage and made sure to rinse the rags out with water really good and then laid them out flat on the concrete floor to dry. I am sure it could be an issue if they were really soaked, but if you use them, and are worried, just put them outside in safe spot....you'll never have an issue with the wood itself... |
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Posted: 3/15/2019 12:01:01 AM EDT
[#29]
Laying rags out on a concrete floor seems like a good idea until the wind blows them up against your garage and they start to smoke.
I have a simple solution. I set rags used with boiled linseed oil on fire immediately after use and get rid of them in a controlled burn instead. |
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Posted: 3/15/2019 12:15:34 PM EDT
[#30]
I'm going to put my used rags in a bucket full of water and Dawn dish soap. If Dawn can clean crude oil off of ducks, it'll break down linseed oil enough to prevent its reacting and combusting.
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Posted: 3/15/2019 12:38:14 PM EDT
[#31]
I literally watched linseed oil soaked rags spontaneously combust. Funny enough, in my moms basement, lol.
We were looking for the source of the light smoke, and poof. The breeze from the open door pushed it over the edge. I now throw used oil soaked rags into a bucket of water. |
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Posted: 3/17/2019 8:12:04 PM EDT
[#32]
Once a day for a week
Once a week for a month Once a month for a year Once a year for life |
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Posted: 3/18/2019 8:05:08 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I prefer tung oil. 50/50 mix with mineral spirits and tung oil for the first few coats. Helps it soak in deeper. |
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Posted: 3/18/2019 9:09:07 PM EDT
[#34]
tung or linseed oil
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