One warning on WW2 german..if its steel cased (especially 44-45 dated)..there is high chance it is not suitable for shooting.  The powder is breaking down and rusting the cases from the inside out.  Bad juju pulling the trigger on one...

I suggest pulling a few bullets to inspect...or better yet...use as display item

german BRASS cased is usually fine..

Yikes appreciate the intel, pretty positive it's brass cased. Only planning on firing 5 out of the 60 and keep the rest for display, just thought it would be cool to pair up a duo that could have really went together at some point. History is engaging!

Edit: Yes it's all brass cased!

It also has the wrong pressure curve for semis.  It can blow them up.

How do you know this?

Plenty of warnings on that already.  The pressures are too high for anything semi, except perhaps for a robust 1919.

I would not trust German steel case.  It seems to be strictly for collector value only, for historical reasons.

It doesn't have the wrong pressure....this is internet myth.

You are correct, US manufactured 8mm is way underloaded for this reason.

I have one of the 1888 commission Turkish rifles, but it is one that was rebarreled in the 1930s with the year and Turkish crest on the top of the barrel.  I thought I had read these were done for the larger diameter .323 bullets so it was safe to shoot full strength JS military loads? I've had it about 25 years and I know I've fed it 1950-1970s Yugo 8mm.

I would imagine!! What I got is brass cased, looking forward to trying it!!

Come again?  There are plenty of internet discussions about blown gas tubes, destroyed mg42 actions and other assorted tragedies associated with Turkish 8mm used in anything other than bolt action arms.  It was originally primed to go 2700 fps with slow burning powders in a 28-inch barrel.  Over time the powders have granulated and  burn much faster, have been clocked as high as 3000 fps in 26-inch barrels.  We are talking about hot stuff!  Way too hot and fast burning for most auto or semiauto actions.  The M1919 can handle it, only because it is a robust action and fires from a closed bolt.

Your welcome to do a search the archives in this forum and can find such information.

I gave some to Blue Falcon to use in one of his Youtube videos and it clocked hotter than 3000 out of a M38 bolt gun.

This is incorrect information.

The ammunition was intended to go about 2930fps. This duplicates WW1 German "s" ball...so this ammo clocking around 3000 isn't a big deal.

Did you have a source that says it's loaded with slow powder?  In the next sentence you say the powder breaks down and turns into faster powder.

The powders haven't "granulated" (???).. they are just like the day they were made.

The fact is the powder is similar in burn rate to imr4895...which is safe for semis etc.

There has been lots of internet discussion but no actual testing. Everyone has overlooked the obvious issue...

The brass has age hardened or was improperly annealed to begin with. The brass is no longer ductile and has lost its elasticity.

So when you get that non elastic brass in a chamber like an mg42 or Hakim and it starts to extract and the brass as still gripping the chamber wall due to residual chamber pressure and the case head will fail because the brass is "hard" and has no give.

This is why the warning....it's not the powder...its the brass...

Pull down some turkey and drop the powder primer in new brass.  Shoot original Turk in a bolt gun....note the bolt lift...then shoot the new brass Turk.... You will see a huge difference...

Test and verify....stop believing everything thing you read on the internet...

I agree on the corrosive part.  Clean your smoke pole soonest after shooting.  I hear windex is a good first responder option.

Windex is also internet myth...just flush with water in run a few wet patches down the bore...dry..then clean normally...it's not rocket science

I like myths, they are so mythical

After shooting mine I use 10% Ballistol, 90% water, followed up by 100% Ballistol on the bolt, receiver area, bore, and muzzle.  It's non-toxic and easy.  I have never had a problem doing it this way.

Been using soapy water followed by a liberal dose of WD40 at the range and then a good cleaning once home. 25 + years of shooting some nasty corrosive ammo and not one issue in that time following this easy method. I usually use a large saline bottle filled with water and dish soap and hose the bore and again follow with WD40 as a cheap easy flush.

Back when that shit was plentiful, the Yugoslav ammo was also plentiful, much better, and going about $55 per case so there was no need to choke your rifles on that shit.  I once bought a Mauser back then and the guy selling it to me offered me a couple bandoliers of it along with the rifle.  I told him I had no use for that ammo and let him keep it

I still have tons of this stuff.  I remember an online retailer out of Ohio was selling it cheap many years ago and I bought thousands of rounds of it.  It's interesting as it cam in various years and different years had different bandoliers and even different stripper clips.

Yeah, I still have 1000+ rounds of the stuff I use as Mauser fodder.

Got it really inexpensive and the stuff I got looks a ton better than the 1947 shit I used to have and disassembled, when I found it had REALLY weak necks. Hell, I tore that stuff down by hand, it was so weak.

Southern Ohio Gun I think it was. I remember buying it for $4.70 a bando of 70 back in the day. I bought a bunch back then and still have a few thousand left. If I remember correctly, the 1934 stuff was always the worst for me. Haven't shot any of my Mausers in ages. Might need to break one out and shoot some turk for fun next time I go out.

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