Tool Loan? M11/9 barrel wrench - Page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Tool Loan? M11/9 barrel wrench

Posted: 8/20/2018 10:17:19 AM EDT

Anyone have a M11/9 barrel wrench flats they would let me borrow?

I hate to buy the wrenches from PS to only use one time.

Can pay shipping via paypal.

Shoot me a PM

Posted: 8/20/2018 11:13:53 AM EDT

[#1]

Should be a 3/4-10 thread, I think. You can find thin jam nuts for cheap at a hardware store. Those, plus a wrench which fits the nut, and you ought to be able to do what you need. One nut threaded on, thread another against it, tighten the top against the bottom nut, put the wrench on the bottom nut, and turn anti-clockwise. To install a barrel, use the top nut and turn clockwise.

Don't forget about the pin, either... I've done that, once.

Posted: 8/20/2018 2:07:11 PM EDT

[#2]

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Quoted:
Should be a 3/4-10 thread, I think. You can find thin jam nuts for cheap at a hardware store. Those, plus a wrench which fits the nut, and you ought to be able to do what you need. One nut threaded on, thread another against it, tighten the top against the bottom nut, put the wrench on the bottom nut, and turn anti-clockwise. To install a barrel, use the top nut and turn clockwise.

Don't forget about the pin, either... I've done that, once.

View Quote

10-4 didn’t think about that, I will be re installing a in lead we trust barrel which has standard flats.

Going to give ACE a call.

Ace Hardware did not have any. And local Home depot did not have any. Looks like Fastenal is my only shot. I will have to order and ship to local store.

Posted: 8/21/2018 10:17:34 AM EDT

[#3]

You try the guys over on UziTalk?

Posted: 8/21/2018 10:23:16 AM EDT

[#4]

No I haven't. Im a new guy over there and Im sure they would be hesitant to loan some tools to someone who has been around for less than 2 weeks.

I was able to locate 2 nuts on fastenal and had them shipped to my local branch for free. Total cost was like $2.30.

Going to give that a try.

Posted: 8/21/2018 11:00:59 AM EDT

[#5]

The jam nut technique will most likely work, and from what I've read, is what is most commonly used on the Ingrams.

In any case, another technique that has been discussed on UziTalk is to clamp the barrel in a vice with wood v-blocks in the vice jaws and use a big wrench with padded jaws to rotate the nose of the receiver. Similar to the technique generally used to remove/install Thompson barrels, but without the added requirement to hold away the grip mount bar as is needed for the Thompson.

Best of luck with you endeavor, and enjoy your firearm.

MHO, YMMV, etc.

Posted: 8/21/2018 11:06:01 AM EDT

[#6]

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Quoted:
The jam nut technique will most likely work, and from what I've read, is what is most commonly used on the Ingrams.

In any case, another technique that has been discussed on UziTalk is to clamp the barrel in a vice with wood v-blocks in the vice jaws and use a big wrench with padded jaws to rotate the nose of the receiver. Similar to the technique generally used to remove/install Thompson barrels, but without the added requirement to hold away the grip mount bar as is needed for the Thompson.

Best of luck with you endeavor, and enjoy your firearm.

MHO, YMMV, etc.

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Did not think about that. Thanks for the information. I may have to give that a try if the nuts do not work out. I was able to knock out the barrel pin yesterday.

I sent M60joe a email asking if he could weld a Glock MOS plate to my stock upper and he had not returned my email as of this morning. Anyone know what his normal response time is?

Posted: 8/21/2018 11:41:27 AM EDT

[#7]

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Did not think about that. Thanks for the information. I may have to give that a try if the nuts do not work out. I was able to knock out the barrel pin yesterday.

I sent M60joe a email asking if he could weld a Glock MOS plate to my stock upper and he had not returned my email as of this morning. Anyone know what his normal response time is?

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The jam nut trick ought to work, the special wrenches are basically just thin nuts with a handle on each.

If you do try a vise and v-blocks, make sure not to crush the barrel. I've seen more than a few oval bores from that sort of thing, when people get overzealous about preventing the barrel from slipping... if you're using v-blocks and the barrel is moving, the solution doesn't usually end up being to tighten the vise even more. Leather, lead, copper, any sort of soft material that deforms a bit and improves the grip achieved with a given clamping force is what usually helps.

If M60Joe can't do the MOS plate welding, just about any little welding shop could. It's fairly trivial, and if you can't find one that will do it, you could always get a gunsmith to properly silver braze the plate where you need it.

Posted: 8/21/2018 12:05:44 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:

The jam nut trick ought to work, the special wrenches are basically just thin nuts with a handle on each.

If you do try a vise and v-blocks, make sure not to crush the barrel. I've seen more than a few oval bores from that sort of thing, when people get overzealous about preventing the barrel from slipping... if you're using v-blocks and the barrel is moving, the solution doesn't usually end up being to tighten the vise even more. Leather, lead, copper, any sort of soft material that deforms a bit and improves the grip achieved with a given clamping force is what usually helps.

If M60Joe can't do the MOS plate welding, just about any little welding shop could. It's fairly trivial, and if you can't find one that will do it, you could always get a gunsmith to properly silver braze the plate where you need it.

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I know of a few good welders in the area. I just wonder what would be the proper technique to attach it?

I have very limited welding experience just stick weld. And I know that is not what I need.

So would a spot welder work? Tig or mig?

The plate has 2 holes that are perfect for welding thru to the stock upper. It may need 2 more opened up to allow for 4 total weld spots.

Posted: 8/21/2018 1:14:18 PM EDT

[#9]

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Quoted:

I know of a few good welders in the area. I just wonder what would be the proper technique to attach it?

I have very limited welding experience just stick weld. And I know that is not what I need.

So would a spot welder work? Tig or mig?

The plate has 2 holes that are perfect for welding thru to the stock upper. It may need 2 more opened up to allow for 4 total weld spots.

View Quote

Yes, yes, and yes. If it were me, TIG on fairly low power (thin sheet steel to the also thin MOS plate) would be the simplest choice, but if you don't have TIG... ask a welding place since you really don't want to use stick anyway. Tell them what you want, show them the parts, and they'll figure which is best for what they have and what your budget is.

Posted: 8/21/2018 1:27:38 PM EDT

[#10]

Did you find a set yet? I believe I have what you're looking for.....but need to check. Purchased for an M10 (7/8x9), but I think it has a separate set of holes for the M11's 3/4x10.

Posted: 8/21/2018 2:03:49 PM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:

Yes, yes, and yes. If it were me, TIG on fairly low power (thin sheet steel to the also thin MOS plate) would be the simplest choice, but if you don't have TIG... ask a welding place since you really don't want to use stick anyway. Tell them what you want, show them the parts, and they'll figure which is best for what they have and what your budget is.

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I always thought TIG was used for aluminium and fairly heat sensitive metals. Thought it would be the best option. If I dont hear back from M60joe I will reach out to a friend of my dads.

Quoted:
Did you find a set yet? I believe I have what you're looking for.....but need to check. Purchased for an M10 (7/8x9), but I think it has a separate set of holes for the M11's 3/4x10.

View Quote

I have ordered some nuts which should work. You and anther member both have offered tools to use. I will get back in touch if the nuts do not work.

Thanks

Posted: 8/21/2018 2:50:16 PM EDT

[#12]

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I always thought TIG was used for aluminium and fairly heat sensitive metals.

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It is. It's like an oxy/acetylene torch, but without the active atmosphere... heat, with an inert gas. You can weld just about anything, seems like, with TIG.

Posted: 8/21/2018 3:39:37 PM EDT

[#13]

3 jaw lathe chuck - clamp down on the large diameter that butts up to the receiver. Its large enough that you can crank down the pressure without distorting the barrel.

Hold the chuck key in the chuck to keep it from turning and apply a large crescent wrench to the receiver where the front take down pins fit.

Be sure barrel is not cross pinned or otherwise "Fixed" before applying force.

Posted: 8/21/2018 8:59:01 PM EDT

[#14]

Just double checked.... I have the PS wrench set (works with all MACs).

Posted: 8/22/2018 10:55:26 AM EDT

[#15]

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Quoted:
Just double checked.... I have the PS wrench set (works with all MACs).

View Quote

Thanks

Just called my local fastenal dealer and my nuts had came in. Now just got to swing by and get them.

Posted: 8/24/2018 11:25:47 AM EDT

[#16]

Well the nuts did work. They are too large. I found some thinner lock nuts at the Fastenal store and they are still to thick.

Posted: 8/24/2018 11:51:52 AM EDT

[#17]

Why not just buy a new upper for $75 and install your ILWT barrel and have the plate welded to it vs messing with the original? That’s what I’m in the process of doing.

Posted: 8/24/2018 12:32:11 PM EDT

[#18]

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Why not just buy a new upper for $75 and install your ILWT barrel and have the plate welded to it vs messing with the original? That’s what I’m in the process of doing.

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Where are uppers that cheap at?

Also who is doing your weld job?

Posted: 8/24/2018 8:13:28 PM EDT

[#19]

Email sent

Posted: 8/25/2018 10:00:54 PM EDT

[#20]

I have a set of wrenches I can loan, hkbeltfed at yahoo dot com

Posted: 8/26/2018 10:07:13 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
Well the nuts did work. They are too large. I found some thinner lock nuts at the Fastenal store and they are still to thick.

View Quote

One can always make a part that's too thick thinner. An edge grinder is what I've used on nuts to use as jamb nuts and on the wrenches that I've used on the inner nut. Do the grinding slow so that you don't over heat the part and kill the heat treat and/or otherwise weaken the part to the point that it doesn't work or breaks. Case in point, I read a thread a couple years ago where, IIRC, some one tried the PS wrenches and the barrel that they had was in so tight that the threads on one of the wrenches stripped. You'll want to avoid getting either jamb nut so thin that the threads strip or the jaws so thin on the wrenches that a leg breaks off.

Best of luck with whatever path you decide to pursue.

MHO, YMMV, etc.

Posted: 8/26/2018 4:00:56 PM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:
Well the nuts did work. They are too large. I found some thinner lock nuts at the Fastenal store and they are still to thick.

View Quote

Now that I think about it, I did this several years ago. I cut a nut in half with a hack saw. He two half-thickness nuts worked just fine.

Posted: 8/26/2018 7:15:58 PM EDT

[#23]

I have chose to keep my old upper stock and just buy a second stock upper for $75.00

Thanks guys who offered there tools and the information.

Posted: 8/26/2018 11:10:46 PM EDT

[#24]

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Quoted:
I have chose to keep my old upper stock and just buy a second stock upper for $75.00

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You might still want a tool or jamb nut so you can torque your barrel onto the new upper properly.

Posted: 8/27/2018 6:25:28 AM EDT

[#25]

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Quoted:

You might still want a tool or jamb nut so you can torque your barrel onto the new upper properly.

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I’m going to buy one of the in lead we trust barrels which has wrench flats made into it.

Posted: 8/27/2018 1:36:09 PM EDT

[#26]

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Quoted:
Why not just buy a new upper for $75 and install your ILWT barrel and have the plate welded to it vs messing with the original? That’s what I’m in the process of doing.

View Quote

I, too, would love to know where to pick up a spare 11/9 upper for $75.