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Posted: 3/11/2018 4:28:39 PM EDT
I got in to reloading for PRS shooting ever since I did the copper creek load development package and compared it to factory store ammo. Copper Creek sent me the load data, then I went out and bought all the best reloading equipment I could.
Load components consist of 6.5 Creedmoor Alpha brass, Berger 130 AR hybrid, 42gr of H4350, and CCI LRP #200 primer I stainless/wet tumbled the brass to a mirror finish. Dried the brass in a brass dryer. Annealed every case with the AMP machine on the proper setting. Used hornady one shot lube on the brass. All brass is being resized in a Forster Co-Ax press and a LE Wilson die First thing I noticed was the brass was getting scratched to hell around the full circumference of the case. Up to the point a fingernail could catch on the gouges it was making. Second thing is the shoulder bump on all cases (after going through the full length die) ranges from -.004 to +.005 I am checking everything with a Whidden Case gauge. What am I doing wrong? I'm ready to throw a brick through the window |
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Did you take apart your dies and clean them? Get the oil/gunk out of them?
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forgot to mention that
I took some degreaser on some patches, and pushed them around inside and outside. Maybe it wasn't enough? |
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Nope.. in my experience, even from the factory, there is quite a bit of oil/preservative inside... I would disassemble, and clean each component, and also look at them for sharp edges/burrs, etc..
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If you have scratches on brass that a fingernail can catch then my guess is you have a scratched die.
Is the scratched brass consitently produced in the same pattern as if you were able to read a fingerprint or rifling lands of a bullet? If so, scratched die. Shouldnt be having that problem, especially with cleaned brass. Time to inspect the die, if fouled up get a new die. As for shoulder setback, will leave that to others with experience for that cartridge. I always full length resized all my semiauto stuff and hardly cared about the shoulder bump but that was 223 that I only maybe ever got 2 reloads out of any of the brass. |
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Hornady one shot is the worst case lube I've ever used. It's awesome for cleaning a BCG or trigger group, but terrible for sizing brass.
After you get your die cleaned out try some homemade lanolin/alcohol lube, Dillon spray lube, imperial sizing wax, or lee case lube. |
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Not sure I follow how lube of any kind on bright clean brass could cause scratches in a new clean die.
Much agree with Hornady One Shot spray lube being less than useless. I personally can mentally make the connection with your large variations in shoulder set-back to the Hornady One Shot spray lube, your getting severe stretching and spring-back. Still doesn't account for the deep scratches. In my mind if the dies leave the shop for the consumer to use it damn well better be clean and ready to go. In my mind there is absolutely no excuse for any high-dollar precision piece like ammunition reloading dies to be filthy enough to cause any adverse effects what-so-ever. |
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Just ordered a tube of the Lee case lube and the green rolling pad.
Still going to send this die in to have it looked at by LE Wilson |
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Throw the One Shot in the trash. Clean the inside of the sizer die with a copper solvent like Sweet's.
Use a good lube like Imperial or home made from lanolin. The scratches are indications of galling in the die and a warning that you are about to have a stuck case. So far you're luckier than others. |
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Quoted:
Just ordered a tube of the Lee case lube and the green rolling pad. Still going to send this die in to have it looked at by LE Wilson View Quote Used the Lee lube for many years and very successfully before experimenting with the Hornady One Shot thinking it would be as great as sliced bread, several stuck cases later what little was left went into the garbage. Then I formulated the lanolin/alcohol home-brew and have been thrilled with it. Agree with manufacturer taking a look at it. Please let us know your experience with them. |
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Quoted:
Throw the One Shot in the trash. Clean the inside of the sizer die with a copper solvent like Sweet's. Use a good lube like Imperial or home made from lanolin. The scratches are indications of galling in the die and a warning that you are about to have a stuck case. So far you're luckier than others. View Quote |
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About half of all sizing problem I see on this forum involves someone using Hornady One Shot.
Dillon Spray lube is the best. The only thing that is close is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Nothing else is worth bothering with - nothing. Keep the can of One Shot as a trophy, a reminder of a lesson learned. |
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I've never stuck a case with One Shot. I fill a loading block with cases and spray all around them at an angle, being sure to get in the case mouth. Then I toss them into a tray and agitate. Last I make sure to let the solvents dry off before attempting to resize. I've done thousands like this and never had an issue. Haven't tried anything other than .223 though.
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Quoted:
About half of all sizing problem I see on this forum involves someone using Hornady One Shot. Dillon Spray lube is the best. The only thing that is close is Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Nothing else is worth bothering with - nothing. Keep the can of One Shot as a trophy, a reminder of a lesson learned. View Quote Plenty have had issues with one shot and my guess is not gunk in the die but galling from crappy lube. Try decent lube after getting the die cleaned up. |
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I use the homemade One Shot Lube made from 97% Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin.
I have sized thousands of .223, .308, 30-30, .270, and 30-06 cases with absolutely no problem. Main trick is to let the cases DRY first! If you don't allow the alcohol to evaporate it kills the lubricity of the lanolin. |
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I use Hornady One Shot to clean my dies with, and it works well for that. As a resizing lube though, I've never had any luck with it.
I had the same issues with erratic resizing measurements at the shoulder when using One Shot. Some cases seemed to stick slightly when coming out of the sizing die, which was causing the brass to stretch a little. I tried RCBS Case Slick spray lube and have had nothing but excellent results using it for many years now. If you are using a lube like Imperial or Lee, with a lube pad, use it sparingly. You will just need a light even coating, or you will end up with hydraulic dents on the shoulder of the case. This can also happen if lube builds up in the sizing die, so regularly cleaning the interior of your sizing die is a good practice. If you are new to using this type of lube, I would suggest practicing with something other than new expensive brass until you get a feel for it. If the dents are small, firing them will blow them back out. If they are large, I would just scrap it and adjust the amount of lube you are using. |
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I use Dillon lube and Forster dies. I didn't clean them at all. No scratches.
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Let me put in a plug for Hornady Unique.
Principal ingredient is beef tallow, not lanolin. It comes in a small tub. I bought it at Academy for about $4. The tub cautions "apply with fingers" and "a little goes a long way". And they're right. I've resized more than 10,000 cases with it and you can still barely see that any has been used at all. Brush the fingertips of your thumb, index and middle finger across the top and then apply to the body and mouth of the case. I have yet to find an amount too small to work. Tumbles off in dry media quite nicely. |
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Unless you let some kind of abrasive material get on your casings you did not scratch your die. Brass will not damage a steel die it's impossible.
Do like AeroE suggested. It is common to gull a steel die which means due to poor lubrication some brass scraped off of a casing and is now stuck on the steel. This is common. It can and does even occur on carbide dies as well. Motor |
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Quoted:
I've never stuck a case with One Shot. I fill a loading block with cases and spray all around them at an angle, being sure to get in the case mouth. Then I toss them into a tray and agitate. Last I make sure to let the solvents dry off before attempting to resize. I've done thousands like this and never had an issue. Haven't tried anything other than .223 though. View Quote The thing is, whether this guy or that guy has had infinite success makes no difference. Neither does their success invalidate the point that far too many people have trouble using One Shot. I believe One Shot is the cause of more resizing trouble than all other lubes combined. . . . P.S. - Bronsonburner, thank you for clarifying your process for using One Shot. Perhaps that will help someone who choses not to get a replacement product. |
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I use Hornady One Shot to clean my dies with, and it works well for that. As a resizing lube though, I've never had any luck with it. I had the same issues with erratic resizing measurements at the shoulder when using One Shot. Some cases seemed to stick slightly when coming out of the sizing die, which was causing the brass to stretch a little. I tried RCBS Case Slick spray lube and have had nothing but excellent results using it for many years now. If you are using a lube like Imperial or Lee, with a lube pad, use it sparingly. You will just need a light even coating, or you will end up with hydraulic dents on the shoulder of the case. This can also happen if lube builds up in the sizing die, so regularly cleaning the interior of your sizing die is a good practice. If you are new to using this type of lube, I would suggest practicing with something other than new expensive brass until you get a feel for it. If the dents are small, firing them will blow them back out. If they are large, I would just scrap it and adjust the amount of lube you are using. View Quote One is a spray cleaner, which can be used to clean your dies. The other is a spray case lube. Labels are VERY similar, so be sure which one you are getting. Regardless, I've read enough troubling reports here to switch back to Imperial... |
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I have mixed the lee lube 1:4 with 91% isopropyl alcohol and used like dillon lube in a pump sprayer. It's not as messy as dillon lube and works good.
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Alpha brass is some thick stuff. I have had trouble sizing it as well. Changing lube helped a bunch.
I was using RCBS lube and a pad. It wasn’t good enough and my brass was growing (like some of yours). All that stopped when I switched to imperial sizing wax. The brass is really tough, on my press, I get better results if I size the brass twice. I think my shell plate flexes a bit (Dillon 650). Sizing twice gives me more consistent results. One day, I’ll pick up a Forster. |
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I cant help but think when I read about "One shot" that some don't know that there are 2 kinds of "one shot"
If someone is cleaning dies, and sizing brass with the same can... stuck cases are a sure thing. |
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Quoted:
Second thing is the shoulder bump on all cases (after going through the full length die) ranges from -.004 to +.005 I am checking everything with a Whidden Case gauge. What am I doing wrong? I'm ready to throw a brick through the window View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Second thing is the shoulder bump on all cases (after going through the full length die) ranges from -.004 to +.005 I am checking everything with a Whidden Case gauge. What am I doing wrong? I'm ready to throw a brick through the window It is way more consistent than One Shot and just as easy to apply. A while back I ran into some pretty significant variations in headspace dimensions when sizing cases. After a lot of testing I determined that Dillon reduced the variation and brought far more cases into a single dimension plus significantly reduced the effort at the handle. Here's the post where I compare One Shot to Dillon Quoted:
are you lubing your cases enough? or at all you can't use too much case lube my brother has ruined several dies while screwing around with spray lubes and home made lubes I use https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/f190ff51-1ea4-400b-b18b-21e37974493a_1.7eb1d873d88a44c2cc9d2e4ffe50e695.jpeg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF yes it can be messy but I've never ruined a die either I've never used Lee case lube but between my own tests and the recommendations of a lot of folks I'll stick with Dillon. |
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Quoted:
I've never stuck a case with One Shot. I fill a loading block with cases and spray all around them at an angle, being sure to get in the case mouth. Then I toss them into a tray and agitate. Last I make sure to let the solvents dry off before attempting to resize. I've done thousands like this and never had an issue. Haven't tried anything other than .223 though. View Quote |
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Who has successfully cleaned brass out of a resizing die, and what did you use, and what was your technique?
I have one that started scoring the case necks a bit, and need to get it sorted out prior to doing my next batch of case prep. |
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All I know is the products we have today are so much better than the Bair case lube and the RCBS oil type that came in the bottle and ate a lube pad every couple of years. You had to clean that stuff off with paint thinner or acetone. That stuff would accumulate in your die then cause hydraulic dents. Then sometimes if you forgot to clean a die that stuff would jam up like glue.
I think Imperial case wax or Lee lube is still the best for beginners. And I don't think it hurts to lube a case with imperial every now and again if you use the spray lubes to put a thin film in your die. I prefer the Dillon spray or the RCBS case slick spray. Both are very good. I use the Hornady one shot on my carbide pistol dies and think it's hard to beat. I also use it for the progressive press, but I apply a little let it set for 10 minutes or so then apply a second coat and let it set. Then about every 20 rounds I run a case with imperial through. I think what happens is people get in a hurry and don't notice a case that doesn't feel slick. But that goes back to not developing a good technique. I have tried the homemade lubes and they work pretty good, but you have to let them dry. You get into a hurry and they bind a little. Reloading is all about technique and as you develop your own techniques it gets better. |
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Get some Hoppe #9 or brake cleaner (use outside).
Dies come from factory with a preservative. Redding has some thick concoction. It is almost like lacquer. I use my US cleaner to clean dies with the Hornady Gun version of cleaner. Remember it is water based so dry your dies thoroughly. |
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1For a newbie, I'd recommend streamlining your process until you figure out the basic stuff--you don't need to anneal. You don't need to polish the cases to a brilliant shine either--they just need to be free of actual dirt. I would also recommend a fairly vanilla match bullet for starters--they're usually a lot easier to get to shoot well. My experience with today's latest and greatest high BC bullets is that they are picky. And inside 200 or 300yds, not any better accuracy-wise than a bullet that costs half as much.
Not saying your on the wrong path, but if you don't have much experience, you can go simpler routes and still get very good performance. |
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There are two different One Shot products; which can cause confusion. One is a spray cleaner, which can be used to clean your dies. The other is a spray case lube. Labels are VERY similar, so be sure which one you are getting. Regardless, I've read enough troubling reports here to switch back to Imperial... View Quote You mention switching away from One Shot because of troubling reports, have you actually had any issues yourself? I used One Shot for a long time on all different sizes cases. I never had any issues at all. I do use home made now but that is a cost thing. Performance wise I can't tell the difference between the two. I've often wondered how different people can have such widely varying experiences with the same product. One of my theories used to be was that people weren't following directions and shaking the can enough. However, I'm really starting to wonder if some people are actually using the One Shot Cleaner by accident? |
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I cant help but think when I read about "One shot" that some don't know that there are 2 kinds of "one shot" If someone is cleaning dies, and sizing brass with the same can... stuck cases are a sure thing. View Quote |
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I'm having the same realization. I don't think you'll get anyone to admit to it though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I cant help but think when I read about "One shot" that some don't know that there are 2 kinds of "one shot" If someone is cleaning dies, and sizing brass with the same can... stuck cases are a sure thing. |
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Please stop knocking One Shot spray lube.
I've used it to resize tens of thousands of once fired LC 5.56 and NEVER had a stuck case. Also use it on pistol cases even with carbide dies, helps keep the progressive running smoothly and therefore increased my production rate. Many folks use One Shot with no problems. If you've had problems, the logical question is: Are you following directions? |
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Please stop knocking One Shot spray lube. I've used it to resize tens of thousands of once fired LC 5.56 and NEVER had a stuck case. Also use it on pistol cases even with carbide dies, helps keep the progressive running smoothly and therefore increased my production rate. Many folks use One Shot with no problems. If you've had problems, the logical question is: Are you following directions? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Please stop knocking One Shot spray lube. I've used it to resize tens of thousands of once fired LC 5.56 and NEVER had a stuck case. Also use it on pistol cases even with carbide dies, helps keep the progressive running smoothly and therefore increased my production rate. Many folks use One Shot with no problems. If you've had problems, the logical question is: Are you following directions? Quoted: Get Dillon Case Lube. It is way more consistent than One Shot and just as easy to apply. A while back I ran into some pretty significant variations in headspace dimensions when sizing cases. After a lot of testing I determined that Dillon reduced the variation and brought far more cases into a single dimension plus significantly reduced the effort at the handle. Here's the post where I compare One Shot to Dillon |
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I use either RCBS Case Slick or home made ISO/lanolin. Don’t forget to clean the excess off the shoulder or you’ll have some nice hydraulic dents on the brass once you’ve solved these other issues
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Home brew Dillon style case lube is the best....
https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Case_Lube_for_cheap_bastards/42-305174/ |
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Hornady one shot is the worst case lube I've ever used. It's awesome for cleaning a BCG or trigger group, but terrible for sizing brass. After you get your die cleaned out try some homemade lanolin/alcohol lube, Dillon spray lube, imperial sizing wax, or lee case lube. View Quote Maybe they should remarket it. Imperial sizing wax is what you want OP. |
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Please stop knocking One Shot spray lube. I've used it to resize tens of thousands of once fired LC 5.56 and NEVER had a stuck case. Also use it on pistol cases even with carbide dies, helps keep the progressive running smoothly and therefore increased my production rate. Many folks use One Shot with no problems. If you've had problems, the logical question is: Are you following directions? View Quote I've used it for 20 years with no issues, precision brass included. I cannot figure out how people have so many problems but they do. More for us, plenty of other lubes out there. |
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It isn't worth wasting your breath, trust me.... unless you own stock I've used it for 20 years with no issues, precision brass included. I cannot figure out how people have so many problems but they do. More for us, plenty of other lubes out there. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Please stop knocking One Shot spray lube. I've used it to resize tens of thousands of once fired LC 5.56 and NEVER had a stuck case. Also use it on pistol cases even with carbide dies, helps keep the progressive running smoothly and therefore increased my production rate. Many folks use One Shot with no problems. If you've had problems, the logical question is: Are you following directions? I've used it for 20 years with no issues, precision brass included. I cannot figure out how people have so many problems but they do. More for us, plenty of other lubes out there. OP, please post some pictures of your problematic cases. |
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I'm another fan of Dillon's case lube. It requires very little effort to get good coverage. No need to be meticulous on coating the cases,
I also like Lee lube. I haven't tried using it from a squirt bottle yet. |
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Die has been sent back to Wilson, just waiting on response. View Quote I'm not meaning to trivialize this defect but, other than this scratching problem, how do you find the die? They (usually) make top quality items at fair prices. Link to Wilson web site Full Length Sizing Die - Bushing Type The NEW Wilson Bushing Type Full Length Sizing Die. This die will allow you to size the case neck to your desired neck tension along with sizing down the rest of the case body at the same time. Die includes an adjustable depth decapping rod. Extra Decapping Punch included, does not contain an expander. Made of High Quality Heat Treated Steel. Bushing sold separately. •High Quality Material - Hardened to L.E. Wilson Specifications •Harder than a Grade 8 Bolt •Interchangeable Bushings to get Desired Neck Tension •Standard 7/8ths Reloading Press •Sizes Shoulder and Body Dimensions •Stainless Parts for a Long Lasting Finish •Durable and Accurate •Use with your L.E. Wilson Case Gage to Determine Proper Sizing and to Prevent Overworking your Brass •L.E. Wilson manufactured lock nut - thickness is .225" from inside to outermost edge .270" for height and 1.250" total width OD |
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They called me back and said they were going to make me a new die that is customized to my once fired brass samples I sent them.
What would that mean if it's customized to my brass? What is different compared to the unit I originally purchased? |
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The custom die should minimize the working of your brass. So a longer interval between any annealing and trimming. Also, less effort to resize. A very nice thing for Wilson to do for you. Just be ready to put a different neck bushing into the die if you switch brass manufacturers.
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I would not go down that path for autoloader ammunition. The cases you make might not work in the chambers of other rifles. You didn't tell us what type rifle you are shooting.
The die was not the problem. Bad or missing lubrication of the cases caused the galling. One Shot works for some people because they read and follow every detail in the directions, including the wait time. It's more expensive than better lubes, and that is enough reason to avoid using One Shot for my needs. |
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If for whatever reason you get bits of brass in the die - from shaving, underlubed brass, failing to fully clean the die - that stuff will stick in there and scratch the crap out of things.
At one point I had to take apart a sizing die and use a bronze brush inside it to get it to stop scratching case necks. |
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Your custom die for your cases that you sent in to them. That could be how much the die is bumping the shoulder back , how much is the question. May also include sizing further down the body of the case. But made for your chamber,
You will want to note this if you ever try to load for any other guns chamber, and gun that has a tight, smaller chamber than yours, your new die won't be able to size them down enough. I guess that depends what they are doing. A bushing can be changed for the neck to adjust sizing there . I've used Rcbs,Lee,hornady lubes but like Imperial best. I apply a small amount on the Rcbs lube pad a spread it with a credit card. Roll the case gently across and every 2nd or 3rd one I push the case mouth into the pad to get a slight amount in the neck. The sizing button is smooth in and out. I hold the case in the die for a short pause allowing powder to drop (Dillon 550) and allowing the brass to set and have less spring back. Less shoulder variation. Longer cases 7mm, 220swift, were when I noticed the difference. You can use too much lube, if you get dents in cases , you have likely used to much,hydraulic dents. Mentioned above. |
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The scratches in your picture look like galling to me. That could be the cause of the brass you found in the die. Since you say you wet tumbled these cases, I think that, and perhaps not enough lube, caused this galling.
Lube is not a singular thing. Different lubes require different processes. One Shot CASE LUBE requires drying time, and the more you spray on, the longer you need to let cases dry. This is also true for ALL of the lanolin-and-alcohol lubes out there, including Dillon’s lube and the home brew you can find instructions for all over the place. With my home brew lanolin lube, I spray a mist over my cases while they’re standing up (mouth up). I usually make a light pass from one side, then another light pass from the opposite side. Then I let them sit for AT LEAST 20 minutes. That’s probably longer than I need to, but it’s at least long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. The key here is that the vehicle - alcohol or whatever - MUST completely evaporate. And yes you CAN have too much lube. With spray lubes, it’s harder to do, but you can cause dents in case shoulders when the stuff collects there. With that said, you can also have too LITTLE lube. Once dry, spray on lube should be at least detectable on the cases. And with wet tumbled cases, you will need a touch more lube because the clean cases are so clean that they gall easily. I wonder if that Alpha brass is oversized, or the Wilson die is UNDER sized. Put thick brass into a smallish die and it’ll be a bear to work. Put oversize brass that is thick in a perfectly in-spec die, and you could have problems too. |
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