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Posted: 3/5/2022 9:18:25 AM EDT
I have a few muzzle devices: VLTOR VC-1 and a Vortex-like 3-prong SIG 552-like flash suppressor that make very noticeable "pings" when shot or chambering a round. I've heard that this is because they are built symmetrically and if you put a decent cut on the inside of one of the prongs, it will prevent that from happening. Before I go WECSOG on some flash hiders, has anyone successfully stopped the tuning fork sounds on muzzle devices, and if so, how?
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I get that when using my can on my .308
the dirtier it gets the quieter it gets. dont clean the carbon off it. |
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Full disclosure, I don’t recall ever having fired a gun with such a device. All I have are closed devices and normally shoot with a silencer the past few years.
I don’t see how it could really be an issue. How long does it ring? How loud is it? I can’t imagine a flash hider being louder than the ringing in my ears after firing a rifle. Nor can I imagine it being that loud when shooting with plugs/muffs. Much like the ping of a Garand clip, who gives a shit when you just unloaded 8rds of -06 or just had them fly past you (if they hit, you don’t have to worry any more, right?) If the target hasn’t figured out where you are after a clip of -06, the ping isn’t what’s giving your position away. If the target is firing back, their ears are ringing enough from their own guns that it’s irrelevant. I’m assuming that those types which also mount a silencer, lose the tuning fork problem with can attached? Either from harmonic change or the can muffling it. |
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Quoted: Full disclosure, I don't recall ever having fired a gun with such a device. All I have are closed devices and normally shoot with a silencer the past few years. I don't see how it could really be an issue. How long does it ring? How loud is it? I can't imagine a flash hider being louder than the ringing in my ears after firing a rifle. Nor can I imagine it being that loud when shooting with plugs/muffs. Much like the ping of a Garand clip, who gives a shit when you just unloaded 8rds of -06 or just had them fly past you (if they hit, you don't have to worry any more, right?) If the target hasn't figured out where you are after a clip of -06, the ping isn't what's giving your position away. If the target is firing back, their ears are ringing enough from their own guns that it's irrelevant. I'm assuming that those types which also mount a silencer, lose the tuning fork problem with can attached? Either from harmonic change or the can muffling it. View Quote I'm not an operator and I'm not on a 2-way range, so I am not worried about 'giving my position away'. I'm just asking because it's an annoyance. Minor in the scope of things, but if it could be remedied, I'd like to - that's all. |
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I have the same sound with Smith vortex FH. I was thinking maybe an O-ring would stop it if it would survive blasts.
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You can wrap wire around the open tines to reduce the tuning fork effect.
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I’ve owned several of the “tine” type muzzle devices that ring when fired. I have a Manticore Eclipse hider that rang exceptionally well. I wound up slightly grinding the tines to slightly different lengths. No more ringing sound.
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Quoted: That's usually the response when I've asked in the past. It's noticeable and lasts for ~20 seconds or until you touch the flash hider or fire the next round, when it starts over. When you're continually shooting, you don't notice it over the shot, of course, but then I'm generally not firing rounds off every second. It also happens when closing the bolt. It lasts considerably longer than the short 'ping' of a garand clip - not really comparable. It's literally like a tuning fork. I'm not an operator and I'm not on a 2-way range, so I am not worried about 'giving my position away'. I'm just asking because it's an annoyance. Minor in the scope of things, but if it could be remedied, I'd like to - that's all. View Quote Are you absolutely wedded to an open tine flash hider? There are a number of very effective close flash hiders. One that instantly comes to mind is the YHM Phantom in either 5C1 or 5C2 configuration. And, its very budget friendly. |
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Quoted: I wound up slightly grinding the tines to slightly different lengths. View Quote Zero personal experience, but I’ve read this ^^^ ala ASR flash hider. Alternatively, drilling the ends of the tines from the front with either different size bits or to different depths. Or dimpling the circumference of the tines. All of which is to make the tines unequal. |
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I imagine you could wrap a wire tie around it when shooting to minimize the ping. Or wire as mentioned above.
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Quoted: That's usually the response when I've asked in the past. It's noticeable and lasts for ~20 seconds or until you touch the flash hider or fire the next round, when it starts over. When you're continually shooting, you don't notice it over the shot, of course, but then I'm generally not firing rounds off every second. It also happens when closing the bolt. It lasts considerably longer than the short 'ping' of a garand clip - not really comparable. It's literally like a tuning fork. I'm not an operator and I'm not on a 2-way range, so I am not worried about 'giving my position away'. I'm just asking because it's an annoyance. Minor in the scope of things, but if it could be remedied, I'd like to - that's all. View Quote Ok. That tracks. I didn’t realize it was that bad. I’d probably trash that design after a magazine worth of slow fire. Too annoying. So now I have to ask, what sold you on that design to begin with? What perceived advantages does it have? IMO and experience, the A2 is just fine for a general purpose rifle. Use a brake on a competition gun, and a proprietary design for mounting silencers. Sometimes you can get two of those things in one device. Obviously you can be kinda stuck with a $100 or so tied up in this device, so it’s not much fun to just toss it in the parts bin like an A2. Best I can do is tell you to try and sell it and get a closed design. I really like the griffin flashcomp. I feel like I chose well getting one for my “nice” rifle, it works well as a stand alone, not bad on the ears and has good recoil/rise mitigation despite being flash-minded. I’m also a bit of a griffin gatelock fanboy, so it was a natural choice to mount that kind of silencer. Visually, it doesn’t look out of place in loud mode, unlike a ASR, Xeno, whatever when not using a silencer. The logic of trimming or drilling the tines checks out, but you probably don’t want to mess with it. Probably hard to “ruin” it, but if you modify it and still aren’t happy, it will likely have the resale value of an A2 at that point. I would not recommend you use tie/safety wire around it. Probably work for a couple shots then fall off or break. I wouldn’t want you blasting bits of tie wire around next to me at the range. |
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The Dead Air 3 prong FH has a flat machined on the outside of each prong, and the flat is a different length on each prong. It doesn't completely eliminate the tuning fork effect, but it does it the least of any I've used.
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The AAC Blackout is horrible for pinging- you can flick it with our finger and it sounds like a tuning fork. I ground two of the prongs on one of mine so that they are all slightly different lengths and that helps a lot (just cold blued them after grinding) but their engineers should have addressed it in my opinion. Guess it's a moot point at this time.
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Does the 3-prong Surefire FH still ring even with the SOCOM suppressor on it? I'm still waiting for my SOCOM suppressor to get out of NFA jail, but I've been wondering about this.
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None of them will "ping" if something is touching the muzzle device on the muzzle end; especially a suppressor.
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Cool. Wasn't sure if the SOCOM RC2 actually touches the prongs or if they "float" inside the can. Had to ask to be sure. Thanks!
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I hated the ring. I went back to el-cheapo A2s that actually work pretty well.
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Quoted: I have the same sound with Smith vortex FH. I was thinking maybe an O-ring would stop it if it would survive blasts. View Quote It will. Buy silicone o-rings, they take the heat better. Buy a bulk bag, they are cheaper that way. Use a larger cross section, like 200 or even 300 series (1/8" & 3/32"). Go one size smaller than the OD of the tines on your muzzle device. McMasyer-Carr is a good source. Silicone O-rings |
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There is more things to worry about in this life than a ping. Buy another flash suppressor if it bothers you that much. I don’t notice my vortex three prong because I’m too busy shooting.
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Quoted: It will. Buy silicone o-rings, they take the heat better. Buy a bulk bag, they are cheaper that way. Use a larger cross section, like 200 or even 300 series (1/8" & 3/32"). Go one size smaller than the OD of the tines on your muzzle device. McMasyer-Carr is a good source. Silicone O-rings View Quote I will give this a try. I have a few that have serious ring. |
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I've heard OF it, but have never heard it for myself. I just put together a 14.5in upper with a Warcomp on it, so I'll be hearing it soon. If it bugs me, I'll just sell the warcomp & stick an A2 on it.
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My M14 flash hiders (closed end) ping, too. Sounds like freedom.
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I love the ring. It matches the recoil spring sound to really complete the plastic gun feel of an AR
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SiCo got it right with their ASR.
Grind one of your prongs a bit shorter OP, it should make things easier on your nerves. |
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Quoted: Perhaps. But the sound produced is not even remotely close to the tuning fork sound with an open end. Night and day difference. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: My M14 flash hiders (closed end) ping, too. Sounds like freedom. It's about the same as my Smith Vortex on an AR. Neither bother me. |
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OP doesn't like the ping, guys. Maybe we should try to help him with his problem rather than try to convince him he has no problem. He seems to have made that clear. I don't like it either.
There are a number of real solutions, including altering his existing FHs by shortening several tines so they are different lengths. I've not tried that, but with the ends still free to vibrate, it would still likely ping somewhat, maybe even at multiple frequencies unless you lucked upon lengths that canceled harmonics. That's an acoustical engineering thing. Putting wire or some sort of band around the tines should work, but would be temporary. Seems to me that the best overall solution would be use of a closed tine flash hider. There are several excellent ones, some of which proved more effective at flash mitigation in comparison test than some open tine versions. I settled on the YHM 5C1 which us among the top tier in performance, yet very budget friendly. Another good one, which is also QD can ready for KAC's NT4 can but excellent as a stand alone FH is KAC's M4QD. I have one on a Recce-type build. There are several other closed tine FHs that performed well in those tests. Neither pings. Both mitigate flash well. 5C1 is inexpensive, M4QD a bit pricey but effective. Should you ever want an NT4, still one if the best suppressors, you'll be ready. |
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