Just impulse bought a Lee Load-Master all set up for 9mm, for a really good price.

I've done lots of reloading for rifle, never bothered with pistol calibers.  I have saved up lots, and lots of brass over the years,
figured now I can start to put it to use.

Where do I begin for 'fun' ammo?  Not looking to reload for self defense, just plinking.

What/where to find the most economical bullets, and what weights to go with (124 or 115gr)?   Leave the "where to find" part out of this thread so this thread does not get locked.
All "where to find" questions must be asked in the tacked  "where to find" thread at the top of the page. dryflash3

What's a good general use powder as far as multiple calibers (I also shoot .40 and .45) ?

Is the Bullet feeder kit that Lee makes worth it?  And if so which one for 115gr or 124gr pills?

Thanks for helping out a pistol reloading newb.

Bullets depends on how much cost is important to you I load about 12k 9mm a year for uspsa and I use a coated cast 135 from the blue bullets because they are cheep and shoot clean.

For powder I will defer to others as I us E3 witch has no published handgun load data.

As for a bullet feeder Im not familiar with the lee.  I use and love a DAA Mr Bullet feeder on my Dillon 650 and it is as good as it comes.  That setup lets me load about 1k in a hour.

...  Sorry - wrong thread.  Oops!

I don’t expect the Mr Bullet Feeder is in his budget. It costs more than his press.

ETA:  as for a cheaper feeder, the Hornady one isn’t bad. Load the metal tubes. Once it’s empty, switch tubes and pull the pin. I use one on my 650.

Promo is the least expensive powder I’ve used. I loaded 4.5 gr with a 115 jacketed Bullet.

Precision Delta has always been reliable and a great value.

A little steep, especially since I got the Load-Master, in like new condition (less than 250 reloads loads on it) for $110.

I like the Hornady pistol feed set up, not overly expensive.

Downside is I would lose the extra spot on the turret for a crimping die, so I would have to adjust the seating die in for crimp.

I just looked down in my reloading room, and I've got a couple of pounds of Unique (I used it for fireforming brass)

Found recipes for all 3 calibers on their website so I'll use that up for now

Power pistol and Titegroup work well, as does CFE.  You can always go with VVT if your wallet can handle it.  I've used Blue Bullet and Acme lipstick bullets.  My M&P seems to like the 147g flat points from Acme.  X-Treme usually has good deals on bullets as well. Their 124g HP over Titegroup is a standard pairing.  I've tried the LM bullet feeder and don't like it because it blocks your view of the inside of the case before placing the bullet.  I'm a little anal about monitoring everything and the powder level is something I really want to check each time.  I also don't worry too much about speed either.  You need to stop every hundred rounds to refill the primer tray and brass feeder tubes anyway so no sense in trying to set speed records.

I have a stick-on LED under the turret, but also bought the billet turret from Magic Mike. It has a hole in the center for a flashlight and really helps keep things stable as well as well lit.

What I've found with the Load Master is that developing a rhythm, scan, and feel technique really helps.  There is a forum dedicated to the Load Master and I've noticed that the reports of problems has really fallen off.  I think Lee listened and improved the design of the primer feeder system to significantly reduce the problems people had in the past.  For your first parts order, might as well plan on buying a few extra decapping pins.  A run-in with crimped primers can end your reloading for the day if you ignore the change in feel, and most people make that mistake a time or two!

As for powder, Titegroup and Bullseye are pretty good, and they are suitable for use in most pistol calibers. In 9mm I'm using 3.6 grains Titegroup for 147 subsonic loads for the SMG (990 fps, and they work in all the pistols, too), and 4.2 grains Bullseye for 147 cast and coated hollow points, chronographed at 1025 fps in the M&P9c and 1020 fps in the G19. For 9mm plinking ammo it's hard to beat Bullseye.

Bullseye and 9mm Article

If I were going to suggest where to start loading 9mm range ammo. I would start with jacketed bullets, and  a powder that gives good density. Once you get the basics down, then you change the formula one element at time to your taste.

Precision Delta has excellent bullets. When you order them in lots of 2k, they are very cost effective.

Suggest starting with the Precision Delta 124 JHP, WSF Powder. Load 5.0 grains of WSF using the 124JHP. COAL 1.10 and the primer of your choice.

If you like 147's try the 147 FMJFP. 4.0 grains of WSF loaded to 1.10 COAL.

I have shot thousands of rounds with the two bullets listed above in about a dozen different guns.

Precision Delta has excellent bullets. +1

Found 1 full and 1 lb nearly full of Unique down in my gun room, I used this for fireforming brass, and did some 16 ga reloads with it.

I found recipes on Alliant's site for all 3 calibres.

Also found a  6 cavity - .452 228gr RN, and 6 cavity .401 175gr SWC molds in a box of stuff I got from an old gun shop that went out of business about 13 or so years ago.

I guess I can cast some up and try the powder coat thing with these. No 9mm mold though .

I think I have some .45 and .40 carbide die sets around somewhere.

titegroup, or sport pistol

coated bullets from
blue bullets
bayou bullets
sns
mbc
black bullets int.
etc

There are a lot of options out there. I cast 124 grain, but either 115 or 124 will serve you well. If you suppress, i'd recommend 147. Otherwise, 115 will generally be a little cheaper. Look into buying coated bullets, unless you are dead set on only shooting jacketed. They're cheaper and work great.  All the places listed above are very good. I'd also recommend Acme Bullets.

I use Win231/HP38 for 90% of my pistol loading. They work for 9mm, 40 and 45 acp. I think Unique does as well, but i haven't used it for anything other than 357.

IMO if i were you, i'd decide on a powder you want to stock, then see what bullets work with that powder, then go from there. I think HP38 is suggested for almost every bullet weight in 9mm, but i'd double check that.

Ditto on the coated Blue Bullets or Precision Delta FMJ.  I just use 115gr bullets because they're the cheapest and my wife and I go through a bunch with IDPA and USPSA.

I personally like to use a slower powder in my 9mm because 1) it's bulkier and will fill up the case more so a double charge would be very obvious if not overflowing and 2) I like the recoil impulse better.  If you are a new reloader, give number 1 some thought.  Yes, there are more economical powders you can use but that might come with a larger chance of letting an overcharge get by your inspection.

I started with Blue Dot in both 9mm and 45acp.  Dirty, unburnt powder flakes all over the place but cheap and you can take a 9mm case, fill it to the case mouth, seat a bullet and shoot it without blowing up the gun.  I used 7.0gr and seated Blue Bullets at 1.095".  The powder is probably 3/16" to 1/8" below the case mouth with 7 grains, so yes, it's a compressed load.  But you can't double charge 9mm.

Another downside is blue dot measures like crap but on the upside, it doesn't matter as bulky as it is.

During the Obama powder and component shortages, I used whatever was available.  Power Pistol comes to mind, but I didn't like it very much.  Nothing wrong with it, just not bulky enough to make me happy and I didn't like the recoil.  Very subjective.

About 3 years ago, I tried a number of powders.  I like Silhouette and I picked it because it would completely burn before the bullet left the barrel, so it was very clean in 9mm.  True Blue is also very good - and you'll not find anything that meters better.    True Blue is/was one of DryFlash's favorites.

I don't remember the others I tried with the exception of the one I'm still using today.  That's Nobel Sport's Vectan Ba9.  Sold only in 500 gram bottles (~1.1 pounds) that I can find for around $17 dollars which comes out to 15.42 a pound.  Wait for a free hazmat sale and stock up. I did, so I don't really know what it costs today.  I use 5.1 to 5.2 grains, a 115gr blue bullet, 1.095" coal and shoot the crap out of them.  Meets IDPA and USPSA minor power factor easily.  A bottle of Ba9 will load ~1480 rounds and the blue bullets come in 1300 piece boxes which works well for me. Very easy to clean the gun and barrel - but that also might have something to do with 25000+ rounds down the barrel and all the roughness is gone.

Those .452 228 grainers should work well with Unique. That my powder for .452 228 cast and coated hollow points.

I use 5.5 grains of True Blue under an 124 grain Montana Gold bullet.

My last 9MM run was 4.5 gr of Unique under 115 gr Eggleston powder coated bullets. I think I used CCI small pistol primers. I did 4000 of them.

They shoot good out of my 2 9MM handguns and were pretty cheap.

Regarding bullets, if you want to go with coated bullets Blue Bullets are a great deal and offer small 250 count packages to try out. If you want FMJ, then Rocky Mountain Reloading has some great pricing on their own bullets. Those are two are my go to sources for range bullets. I originally started out with Precision Delta years ago however IMO they are too pricey.

Powders, I also recommend True Blue, as it flows through any powder measure, burns clean, has tons of load data and if you want to run +P loads they publish that as well.

blue bullets and titegroup makes an accurate affordable load, perfect for USPSA/IPSC ect.



180gr 40 blue, bayou, and precision

Smart move to use what you have on hand.

Unique will "work" for your goals; I find there are dozens of better powder choices out there after you use up the Unique.

I would avoid the 115grn bullets - too snappy as far as recoil.  I personally load only 147s.

The coated bullets made these days are accurate and cheap.  Just do not over-crimp.

Keep the questions coming.

I run 4.9gn of unique under 115gn plated (xtreme) at 1.165 OAL (gun likes them long) in my 2011 3 gun pistol.Other than its a bit dirty I like it better than some of the more traditional powder options(TG, PP). Ive made 10's of thousands of these so your Unique is a perfectly fine choice. Someone mentioned 4.5 which as I recall was on the ragged edge of just cycling my fnx-9 when I tested it, so that would be a nice soft load.

I am not saying don't but realize a couple of things.

9mm factory is pretty cheap if you scout around and buy case lots on special.

You can save money by reloading but if you bother working out the savings and the time invested it doesn't come to much.

Pretty much any other caliber will show a better return.

When shopping for components always consider shipping, some outfits ship for free, some ship reasonable and some outfits list super cheap components but then stick it to you on shipping.

I have not messed with lee progressive gear but many report it being fussy and problematic.

Become friends with old time trap and skeet guys, many will have stockpiles of old shotgun powder that is just the ticket for pistol use. They bought 8 and 12 lb jugs!

Too snappy?  Can you elaborate?  That doesn't really hold true for rifle, usually heavier weight means more recoil. Is it because of the short barrel and the time in it?

My 9mm slingers are P225's, P226's, and P228's .. Always found them to be pleasant shooters

See above which 9mm pistols I have. I suppose I can start with 4.5 and work my way up

Found that I could pick up 500 Acme 115gr LNG coated pills for $38.60 shipped, seems reasonable at least compared to Rifle pills (last ones I got were $49/100 for Berger 130gr AR Hybrids)

Maybe I should throw together an AR 9mm pistol and load heavy +P ammo  

Watched and read lots of good info for smoothing out the Load-Master. Again it would have been foolish of me NOT to pick it up for that price.

The cheapest I have found that kit anywhere is well more than twice the price.

Even if I never use it in times of leisure, I can always use it in a 'pinch' if need be

I certainly have plenty of 'pinch' items down in my gun dungeon

Pick s bulky powder like CFE, so that it is harder to double-xharge, and run it below max: I run my handgun loads medium, not hot.

That 3.6tg under a 124gr makes a nice load. I ran those for a while.
I switched to 135gr bayou rn with 3.35gr TG under it. A bit softer shooting, but very close.
OP take note.
Light loads of TightGroup are great for range ammo, plinking, competition etc.
Very accurate and soft shooting.

I run a loadmaster. I've had one since they were introduced back in the early 1990's.
I currently own 2.
It sounds like you've already watched a bunch of videos, which is great.
I highly recommend you read through this........Titan Reloading Loadmaster Setup

I have one setup for 9mm and have run thousands, 10's of thousands of rounds through it without a single hiccup.
I have another setup for .223
I do prime off press for that though.
I just prefer it that way.

If you need extra parts for your LM, LEE will send them to you for "mostly" free.
I was recently on their website ordering parts for an Auto Drum measure.
I looked in the cart and almost everything I wanted to order was "FREE"
I then realized that I could add almost any small part for any press for free as well.
Any QTY over 1, you pay for the additional items added.
SO I put together an order with a bunch of small parts for all on my LEE products.
It was like 40 items. I only had to pay for 3 of them.
They ding you on shipping. But for $24, I got hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.
You just have to register an account with them.

I recommend making sure you have the latest version of the priming system.
If not, "order" it for free like I stated.
Add a few little extras while you are at it.

I've also noticed a considerable difference in recoil with the heavier bullets.  The 147g flat points over ETR-7 (Maxum) give more of a push than lift type of recoil.  Others have asked if I even make power factor with that load, but it consistently comes out at 136 when they run a chrono at matches.  The only down side to the Acme coated bullets is that some people say they give off a burning plastic smell.  I've never had the smell myself but that might be because I'm more concentrating on shooting.  The upside of the Acme coated bullets is that you don't have "smurf fingers" when reloading like you do with the blue bullets!

CFE works good

Unique is a versatile pistol powder and will serve you well for all three calibers starting out. I never loaded coated with it but have sent a lot of plated 9mm 115s down range with it with good accuracy.

115gr coated will do you well, and are what I would recommend from an economy standpoint.

Coated require just a touch more attention to die adjustment. You have to expand sufficiently to not scrape, and being softer you have to be sure not to "crimp" too much.

115s are only "snappy" if you have to make a certain Power Factor (weight x velocity), with two pistol rounds at the same PF heavier bullets will generally feel softer. My only knock on 115s is shooting falling steel for score.

CFE Pistol, Titegroup, Bullseye all work pretty good for a variety of pistol loadings, Unique is also pretty versatile. As other have already added, Blue Bullets are a great source of low priced coated bullets. I will grab Berry's plated bullets when I have coupons or on sale.

Don't over crimp your loads, common mistake for beginner pistol loaders, for some reason people think pistol rounds need more crimp than they really do, just enough to take the expander flare out should be plenty.

The most economical bullet is going to be a coated bullet, in 115gr or 125gr.

They're all good, but I'm partial to Black Bullets International.

Bullets are the biggest cost as a percentage of price per round.

To maximize savings in reloading you need to buy components in bulk.

The best multi-caliber pistol powders are going to be powders like Win231, Titegroup, Bullseye, HP-38, Sport Pistol, Red Dot/Promo.  Those are all relatively fast-burning powders.  The charge weight is lower and they are more conducive to light-power plinking loads.

There have been several slower powders mentioned that are fine and will work fine but they're less economical and you generally have to load hotter to reach their "accuracy window".  The way to avoid a double-charge is to pay attention and not drop two charges in one case, as opposed to picking a less optimal powder for the bulkier characteristics, IMO.

I used to use 124gr plated round nose over max loads of 231 and they ran in everything.

I was going to switch to 147 exclusively, running Unique first and now AutoComp, but I recently cleaned out the lower bullet cabinet under my press and found about 5000 124gr plated rounds.

An old databook actually had a 231 load for the 147 bullets.  That load is a piece of shit.

I use plated bullets from Berry's, Xtreme, and RMR.  9mm does not like a truncated cone reload in my experience, stick to round nose.

I started using AutoComp during the great powder shortage, because of it's multi use capability, and because many reloaders hadn't heard about it yet.

All my plinking ammo in 9mm for the last five years has been made on a Loadmaster.  I cast and powder coat my own bullets. These are from a Lee truncated cone 124 gr bullet mold.  I just hand feed and use W231 or HP38 powders for 9mm and 380. I like that because I can peak in every case (center of die holder drilled out to hold a small LED flashligh) before setting a bullet. I don't use a feeder.

Two mods I'd offer.

Get rid if that stupid bubble chain that connects to the powder measure. Save the little spring. Made a new "chain" from coat hanger wire. Some bending/shaping will be needed as well as the little spring.  The bubble chains can break, plus it slipping caused irregular  powder drops from my Autodisc. Mine throws ridiculously boring and consistant charges now. Use the chain for a while, just to see it's function, then do the coat hanger mod.

Last mod is to the tensioner block that operates the case feed. The tensioner block rides on the diagonal 1/4" rod on the right of the press. That thing is designed to give a slight bit of grab to the steel bar. It sucks. Buy a small rare earth magnet. The one I used was 1/2" x 1/2" and was one my wife stuck stuff on the fridge with. Just stick it to the outside of the tensioner block plastic on the far side. Attraction to the 1/4" steel rod running through the tensiiner block will hold it to the tensioner block. I've not had to adjust the tension in five years. The magnet provides perfect tension.

I've done other mods to mine. If you care to know all I've done, PM.

Can you post a picture of this?  I think I understand what you did, but a picture would be better.  Pics of your magnet tensioner would help too.

The thing about “range ammo” is that, whether you load soft or hot, heavy or light bullets, whatever, you want consistent loads.  Range ammo should get almost as much attention to consistency as precision ammo (which is to say “all hand loads should be as consistent as possible”).  Anything you do to your equipment that makes it load more consistently is a plus, along with the operator (that’s the loose nut behind the press handle ) being as consistent as possible in every operation.

It's been mentioned, but worth mentioning again.

For 9mm powder .... use True Blue

Great powder and literally meters like water.

For range stuff ... I load 124g plated RN, but when my current stack gets closer to the floor, I am going to switch to coated as my plated bullet supplier is apparently on the ropes.

I've been reloading 9mm ammo for years, but when it comes to cost, can't help you, as many of my components used to come from a former best friend of mine, so I was casting my own bullets, powder coating and loading for about the cost of the electricity to run the lead pot. Even with buying components, home cast is really the cheapest if you don't mind the time. I enjoy it as a hobby that dovetails with my other hobbies, so I'm good with it. But you'll want some time under your belt with regular loading before you tackle casting. As for powders, I am partial to Accurate Arms powders, and Unique as a fall back. ;)

Wish I could post pics. Lost login for Photobucket, plus I read that sight doesn't work anymore.  I think I have an old Picasa account, but I'd have to search for my login info. It's been years.

I've used Precision black moly coated 125 grain bullets with great luck.

I've loaded them the same as jacketed bullet velocity with absolutely no leading whatsoever.

If you want to do it really cheap, cast your own lead bullets.

As far as powder is concerned, I've used mainly Bullseye, Unique and Power Pistol.

In regards to bullets, I really like the stuff from Everglades Ammo. Free shipping on everything as well. They're priced a decent amount less than Montana Gold and Precision Delta and have both true FMJ and plated options in 115/124gr.

My typical load is 4.6gr HP38 or W231 under a 124gr bullet.

If you email me the photos, I will post them for you. Or as dryflash said, FREE imgur acct.
That's what most of us are using these days.
My email is my username here, at gmail.

For image hosting - lots of options.  Personally, I've been using tinypic for over a decade, and am happy with it.  It's free as well.

I'll throw in my favorite powder since everyone else has. My pick is AA #5. It's like True Blue but just a little more economical. The nice things about AA #5 and True Blue are just how universal they are.

I'm sure it's mentioned in other posts but 9mm can be finicky before you find an accurate and reliable recipe and OAL. Cast bullets can add to the issues. If you want to shoot cast bullets in 9mm, the standard expander stem in Lee 9mm dies may not expand the brass enough to keep from shaving lead off the bullets. The fix is getting a 38S&W expander stem, which is just a few dollars.

Never heard of it, but I'm not an internet guru, so there is that. Used that Photobucket for years, only.  I will check it out. Thanks.

OP and others: I got a couple pics uploaded to Tinypic to show the Loadmaster mods I was talking about.

------------------------

First here is an overhead shot of Loadmaster press. Excuse that I don't have a regular reloading bench, this is a press jig clamped to my kitchen table. :)

Also note that the press, as pictured, is set up to do final loading of tumbled, sized and hand primed cases. I reload in two sessions on the press. First
session (after intitial tumble) uses a die holder with only a decapping/resizing die. It is set in position 1.  Brass is then dumped in the tumbler to put a good sheen on the
cases and to clean out the crud in the now exposed primer pockets, then hand primed/inspected.
I do it this way because the weakest link on the Loadmaster is it's priming system. Plus, I can't stand dirty primer pockets. It also allows for me to
closely inspect each shell as I hand prime.

The press is then set up like this first pic with the second die holder.
Postion 1 is empty.
Position 2 has powder drop/case flare. Coathanger rod modification (more reliable than the stock chain) is not seen in this pic, it is on the other side) See second pic.
Position 3 has a flashlight.
Postion 4 is bullet seat.
Position 5 is factory crimp die.

http://oi63.tinypic.com/2gue8i1.jpg

Second pic is on the right side of the press. It shows the Coathanger rod modification that operates the powder drop on Postion 2. Also, you can see the rare earth
magnet on the case feeder tensioner block. It is just stuck on the outside. It provides perfect tension on the diagnal rod that the tensioner assembly and it rides on.

http://oi63.tinypic.com/24xo29y.jpg

Another note: In order to run the Autodisc powder drop on the right side of the press using the coat hanger rod (or chain), I had to drill and tap that silver colored bracket on the right side of the
press on the case feed bridge to have a lower anchor for the coat hanger rod. Used two 10-32 screws after drilling and tapping.  If ran normally (Postion 3, on left side of the press), there is a lower anchor spot for the stock chain.  Also note that I salvaged the little spring from the stock chain to use with the new coat hanger rod. Stop for the little spring is a crimped on sta-con electrical butt connector (for splicing two 10 gage wire) Top end of coat hanger wire is just bent.

That image option never has worked for me before. Let me try a rerun.

First here is an overhead shot of Loadmaster press. Excuse that I don't have a regular reloading bench, this is a press jig clamped to my kitchen table. :)

Also note that the press, as pictured, is set up to do final loading of tumbled, sized and hand primed cases. I reload in two sessions on the press. First
session (after intitial tumble) uses a die holder with only a decapping/resizing die. It is set in position 1. Brass is then dumped in the tumbler to put a good sheen on the
cases and to clean out the crud in the now exposed primer pockets, then hand primed/inspected.
I do it this way because the weakest link on the Loadmaster is it's priming system. Plus, I can't stand dirty primer pockets. It also allows for me to
closely inspect each shell as I hand prime.

The press is then set up like this first pic with the second die holder.
Postion 1 is empty.
Position 2 has powder drop/case flare. Coathanger rod modification (more reliable than the stock chain) is not seen in this pic, it is on the other side) See second pic.
Position 3 has a flashlight.
Postion 4 is bullet seat.
Position 5 is factory crimp die.



Second pic is on the right side of the press. It shows the Coathanger rod modification that operates the powder drop on Postion 2. Also, you can see the rare earth
magnet on the case feeder tensioner block. It is just stuck on the outside. It provides perfect tension on the diagnal rod that the tensioner assembly and it rides on.



Another note: In order to run the Autodisc powder drop on the right side of the press using the coat hanger rod (or chain), I had to drill and tap that silver colored bracket on the right side of the
press on the case feed bridge to have a lower anchor for the coat hanger rod. Used two 10-32 screws after drilling and tapping. If ran normally (Postion 3, on left side of the press), there is a lower anchor spot for the stock chain. Also note that I salvaged the little spring from the stock chain to use with the new coat hanger rod. Stop for the little spring is a crimped on sta-con electrical butt connector (for splicing two 10 gage wire) Top end of coat hanger wire is just bent.

Well, that worked. Amazing.