Looking at the TacSol SBX barrel for my 10/22TD build. I have a dead air mask and a sico Spectre II. Both get pretty well stuck on the barrel of my regular TacSol barrel (non-TD) and my RAR. The rear cap very frequently unscrews from the can when removing them. Last time I took the mask off I had to wrap the rear mount in leather and use pliers to get it loose from the muzzle and I don't think I put even 100 rounds through it, though it had been on there for a few months
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I suppose I could REALLY crank the end caps on the can with a wrench but it still seems iffy. How is this not a huge problem with the SBX barrels?
Thanks

I used red locktite on one of my .22 cans and it’s the only one I use with it. Haven’t had it come off and clean it with removal of the end cap. It’s my fear too, but I haven’t had it happen yet.

Hmmm I hadn't thought of that but Red seems pretty aggressive. Apparently works though and I suppose the can could take a little heat to break it with no issues.
Not being able to get to the mount just seems like a problem waiting to happen, especially with no ability to properly clean the muzzle threads and yet these barrels seem fairly popular and have been around for a while. I should have bought the YHM Stinger my LGS had when I could have bought it for $200, rear mount was solid to the can.

I don't have the barrel, and my element2 is built in a way it's not an issue, but I've read threads down the silencer form about it before. I'm pretty sure someone made (or maybe made a stl file) a tool that would reach down in their to unscrew your can-remnants. No links to share, but maybe ask down there or do a search.

IMO, it's the dirty secret about most rimfire cans that manufacturers won't admit to.  Not in manuals, but some will recommend anti-seize on the threaded end and someone made a 3D printed Mask removal too.  I would not recommend that barrel unless you are using a can with a fixed threaded end or left hand tightened tube.    In TacSol's defense, the takedown tool works to take the stuck end off the host while others tend to require a rubber strap wrench or channel locks and a thick piece of leather; that is on normal barrels.  Really don't understand the appeal of that barrel because most people who can afford it and use it live in a state that allows suppressors as well as afford a suppressor + premium barrel.  Buy a quality <16" barrel, make it a braced pistol or pay the extra $200 and wait at most a couple months for the SBR stamp to arrive.  This is coming from someone who owns 2 full TacSol rifles and 2 Axiom suppressors.  I have an El Camino which has a fixed threaded end and still have zero interest in the SBX.

Yeah, I agree with you mostly. I already use anti-sieze on my regular barrels and it's still usually a bitch to get the cans off. I had the thread for the 3D mounted Mask removal tool saved for about a year before I finally lost it (hadn't gotten around to this build) and I wonder if it's still made. Even if it is I wonder if it's actually strong enough, being made of plastic, those damn mounts really get stuck tight. I considered the SBR route but the barrel I wanted, 9" TacSol charger TD, was $50 more than the SBX, plus the stamp and engraving, so basically another $300 and when the stock pieces are nestled together the overall length is still the same as the SBX barrel.
Now I see that TacSol has the Oyhee(?) and an SBR version of that is what I REALLY want, but holy shit that would be a lot of money to quietly shoot squirrels while bowhunting.

I only use my sparrow because of this problem.  It’s the worst when the can comes unthreaded

I can't add anything about the TacSol SBX barrel, but do have a DA Mask myself.

Chase at SuppressorTools makes a fantastic 3D printed, heavy duty tool (#12) that works for both the end cap & mount. Problem is, you can't get the tool on the mount from the "tube side." So, that wouldn't help if mount is stuck on the barrel threads.

Again, his stuff is fantastic. I bought #8 for my Rugged Oculus as well.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Sounds like this barrel is just as much trouble as I thought it would be, and I either need to SBR it, buy another can, or put up with the length of a 16" barrel.

I use red loctite to secure the rear endcap to the can.  When I want to clean it i just hit the tube where it threads in with a torch for a few seconds.  That will degrade the loctite and it will unscrew.  I've done this at least a dozen times in the last decade and it has never permanently stuck.  It allows me to really crank the can on and off different barrels and not get the rear endcap stuck on the barrel.

I just thread mine off and back on occasionally.
hasnt been an issue in years of use.

I’ve yet to experience this issue with mine.