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Posted: 10/3/2020 2:43:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By laxman09: Anyone have a bino set up and just see double of everything? I think my IPD is around 58mm so not sure Ill be able to get something that can mount them close enough for me to see right  Physically the cameras cannot be less than 60 PD, due to the camera plastic shell contacts each other. No bridge mount can be less than 60. |
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Posted: 10/3/2020 2:58:50 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gaspain: Physically the cameras cannot be less than 60 PD, due to the camera plastic shell contacts each other. No bridge mount can be less than 60. Yeah I was looking at your mount and saw that. Just not in the cards for me. 
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Posted: 10/3/2020 3:11:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By laxman09: Yeah I was looking at your mount and saw that. Just not in the cards for me. No, it can still be done...If you can get a mount that allows the cameras to angle out like a V, then you can do it down to like 55mm PD. The kiloohm MK1 can do it, but it was discontinued. However, I am planning a new version in the next few weeks. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:13:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Ok well I ordered the PVS15 shoes expecting an easy solutions, but of course not.
The shoes don’t fit right into my KAC bridge. See the difference between the KAC on the left with the flir adapter and the KAC pvs15 on the right. It doesn’t clip in securely and slides around in place. Someone help. I’m about to throw shit  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:24:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#5]
wow, KVC made their own size then. You are the first try this, so I guess it's not surprising.
Looks like 3 to 3.5mm. If you have a 3d printer you could make a block to fit there it would wedge in and not come out. Or you could file down a piece of metal or plastic to 3x3x25mm. Or buy a 3x25 dowel pin and jb-weld it to the shoe. @Alpinist |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:37:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Alpinist]
[#6]
The other issue I see is the little screw I would need to fit through the tripod hole in the Sionyx won’t fit through the hole in the PVS15 Mount???? Also it has these circular things underneath it about .75” in diameter- not sure how alright of a fit this could be.
I don’t have a 3D printer. This bridge was as much as one of the Sionyx units. Sigh. Am I going to have to buy one of those 3D printed bridge mounts off Etsy? |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:38:19 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: The other issue I see is the little screw toy would need to fit through the tripod hole in the Sionyx won’t fit through the hole in the PVS15 Mount???? Also it has these circular things underneath it about .75” in diameter- not sure how alright of a fit this could be. I don’t have a 3D printer. This bridge was as much as one of the Sionyx units. Sigh. Am I going to have to buy one of those 3D printed bridge mounts off Etsy? don't give up, might try what I stated above with dowel pins and JB. You are an honorary engineer now, should you choose this adventure! also those circle things are fine, however...there is no locating pin on the sionyx, so the cameras may not be straight. Which is not bad per say, there is some amount of error allowed and if you have narrow eyes, under 60 PD this will help that to angle out in a V. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:44:17 PM EDT
[#8]
I actually noticed while holding them up to my eyes that a slight V makes the picture clearer for my eyes. I guess there some sunshine after all. I’m going to go to Lowe’s and try to dick around with it. Thanks man
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:45:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#9]
You may also have to drill the bolt hole on the Wilcox shoe to a larger size, that is 8/32. You Will need a 1/4-20 bolt that has a shallow head to fit the shoe to the camera.
Also the head of the bolt will not fit the area Wilcox allowed on that shoe, it barely fits a 8-32 bolt head. The hole or the bolt head will need to be fitted. A milling machine with flat end mill or lathe the bolt head will be needed, or chuck the bolt in a drill and file it to size. This may be a larger problem if you do not have tools. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 9:51:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gaspain: No, it can still be done...If you can get a mount that allows the cameras to angle out like a V, then you can do it down to like 55mm PD. The kiloohm MK1 can do it, but it was discontinued. However, I am planning a new version in the next few weeks. I actually sold the 2nd camera already. Probably will sell the one I have now once I save up for a PVS14. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 10:02:07 PM EDT
[#11]
Yeah I have tools, but I don’t have a milling machine or a lathe. I thought this was a pretty easy deal.
I can drill the hole out to fit the bolt. I wish I could just buy an adapter that worked out of the box. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 10:06:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: Yeah I have tools, but I don’t have a milling machine or a lathe. I thought this was a pretty easy deal. I can drill the hole out to fit the bolt. I wish I could just buy an adapter that worked out of the box. That hole is easy, the hard part is where the bolt head sits....very difficult, impossible with a drill. A flat end mill is needed. That is why I recommended modifying the bolt head to reduce it's size and depth. |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 10:13:25 PM EDT
[#13]
Yeah I just don’t have the ability to do this.
So the KAC Mount is out. Does the IRMount Mk2 link up to a Wilcox L4 properly ? |
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Posted: 10/5/2020 10:17:49 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: Yeah I just don’t have the ability to do this. So the KAC Mount is out. Does the IRMount Mk2 link up to a Wilcox L4 properly ? yea it does. To the L4 G24. |
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USA
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Posted: 10/6/2020 5:47:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#15]
As far as what goes on the Aurora to clip it into a Wilcox spec Dovetail on a Bridge - The previously posted M24 FLIR Shoe is what is needed. Countersunk hole, flat mount screw, flat bottom, and anti-rotation pin (minor hand file work to flatten it on each side is all that is needed)...plus (possibly) a couple passes down each long side of the shoe, since it differs slightly from the SkeetIR Shoe for the SkeetIR Bridge. YMMV for other Bridges.
But if KVC has their own spec dovetail - even that wouldn't have helped it appears. Like Gaspain said, I think you are the first person to try a KVC Bridge. Too bad you didn't get the FLIR Shoe though (can you send the PVS-15 Shoe's back?), because depending on how much play their is - you might be able to shim it with tape. You need to find out (maybe from KVC?) what is needed to mount this vvv, on their Bridge: FLIR M24 Recon Pics Maybe ask TNVC? KVC Bridge at TNVC |
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USA
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Posted: 10/6/2020 6:12:22 AM EDT
[#16]
Was out re-measuring Field of View with the Pros at 1:1 (2 Clicks Zoom) last night.
At a Tape Measured 50 feet, the FOV is a measured 28 feet edge to edge. Unlike the Black/Classic/Sport - HDR actually makes a huge difference in the image quality - I was pretty amazed. This was at about 2030hrs before the Moon broke the horizon at 2112hrs. I started with it on, then toggled it off - the whole image got a measurable amount darker. I'll be running it on, from now on. Couldn't detect a difference between 720p and 360p on the EVF. Since it didn't look worse, I'll probably stick to 360p in case their is a technical difference - as every little bit helps. Did perceive a difference between 24fps and 30fps - 30 is better from a usability standpoint (we know lower frame rates improve the image at the low end, but at a cost of usability). Best way to describe it is at 24, the EVF looked like it does on the Black/Classic/Sport at 30, with the pixel refresh rate. On 30, the motion blur is barely there (still a tiny bit, but way reduced over the originals). Tested Video Mode only, need to do Photo Mode next. |
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Posted: 10/6/2020 10:29:33 PM EDT
[#17]
I bought KVC Flir Breach shoes for my KVC bridge.
Here they are with longer bolts mounted to the Auroras. The problem is they are way too far away from my eyes. I need them much closer than this. I’m not sure how to fix this?  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:11:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: slappomatt]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: I bought KVC Flir Breach shoes for my KVC bridge. Here they are with longer bolts mounted to the Auroras. The problem is they are way too far away from my eyes. I need them much closer than this. I'm not sure how to fix this? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/71E541E4-4C3A-456A-9AC3-F30C165E083F_jpe-1624117.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/81203816-B9D6-4D9D-9006-BFE833187512_jpe-1624118.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/AD8BAAAE-DF77-4F1C-8647-EBB491632733_jpe-1624122.JPG |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:26:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By slappomatt: buy a $50 rhino 2, and the shoe adapter. it gets closer. True, RHNO II gets about 1/4" closer than the Wilcox L4 G24. I made the kiloohm mk2 bridge to compensate for this so it will work on both. It looks like your helmet is sitting high, remove some pad and tilt back maybe. Hard to say for sure in the photo, maybe the helmet is small which pushes everything up, the up angle on the L4 is 45 degrees which impacts the in/out at 2:1 ratio (raise the L4 to get more inward, so lower your helmet to do that). The front lip is usually around just above the eye brow. I don't think the KVC will work 100% after seeing how far FWD it sits in @Alpinist photos, but may work... The KVC is tall, which hurts you too, you run out of UP adjust which affects in/out @ 2:1. And your shroud looks unusually thick, not helping your situation and may cause issue with any bridge you choose. But, last resort maybe use a Crye Nightcap instead of a helmet to get about 1/2" closer, but that may not be enough, looks like 1.25" is needed.  your setup  Attached FileHow it should be, notice how the SiOynx sits near and under the front lip of the helmet. And the helmet is low, compare space above ear.  Attached File |
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USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 5:32:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: mickdonaldson]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: I bought KVC Flir Breach shoes for my KVC bridge. Here they are with longer bolts mounted to the Auroras. The problem is they are way too far away from my eyes. I need them much closer than this. I’m not sure how to fix this? God damn that's a good looking piece of equipment! I think you are screwed, unfortunately - don't know why - maybe a combo of head size/face geometry/helmet pad setup?. Can you remove/use a thinner brow pad, and add a nape pad? That bridge looks like one of those "Inline" type - like the MACHOS - where the Dovetail is approximately inline with the device shoes, straight across. However, the MACHOS worked fine for me with an HHV Shell - with both a RHINO II and a G24, but the RII will go back further - see face/head/helmet pad thing. Look at this Bridge, which a lot of us use - notice the offset shoes, from the Dovetail (Photo Courtesy of TNVC):  You can grab a SOTAC clone for about $120 - it's solid. Here's to you getting it sorted hopefully - this is one of those "the very first guy to decide to eat a Lobster" deals... I guarantee you are the first to try that Bridge. |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 11:01:33 AM EDT
[#21]
Okay, sold my Aurora and am trying to decide between the Pro or dropping the $$$ on a PVS-14. Rather than go back over the dozens of pages I've missed, what's the Cliff Notes on the Pro vs the PVS-14? TIA!...
Tomac |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 11:20:27 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Alpinist: I bought KVC Flir Breach shoes for my KVC bridge. Here they are with longer bolts mounted to the Auroras. The problem is they are way too far away from my eyes. I need them much closer than this. I’m not sure how to fix this? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/71E541E4-4C3A-456A-9AC3-F30C165E083F_jpe-1624117.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/81203816-B9D6-4D9D-9006-BFE833187512_jpe-1624118.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/328900/AD8BAAAE-DF77-4F1C-8647-EBB491632733_jpe-1624122.JPG The RHNO II with dovetail adapter allows you to get the cameras much closer to your eyes vs. the L4G24. |
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USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 12:22:17 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tomac: Okay, sold my Aurora and am trying to decide between the Pro or dropping the $$$ on a PVS-14. Rather than go back over the dozens of pages I've missed, what's the Cliff Notes on the Pro vs the PVS-14? TIA!... Tomac Same as always except the Pro is usable down to NL4 Light levels (NL5 is where you can't see your hand at the end of your arm). HDR actually works, which helps that <<<, and the "motion blur" on the EVF is a lot less somehow. FOV is wider than the original units. They still need to be run close, they still need external power for more than 2-3 hrs use. You're still "making it work" vs it being designed to work - just depends on what your requirements are, and how much you want to spend for what you need/can make due with. In practical use (going off previous .mil use), the 14 will give you a better looking image (technically it's always better, as analog has no "resolution") between NL6 and Good Moon/Ambient (NL 1-2) - which happens a lot. Courtesy of GroundhogOZ 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 12:49:35 PM EDT
[#24]
The roll pin on my Rhino II was pressed in so much I cannot get a good grip with any of the tools I have to pull it out.
I found a very thin drill bit so I will try that method out. It seems I cannot post pictures, or I am still too new to this forum and I am not allowed yet. I would say it sticks out 1mm which is not enough in my case. |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:06:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Advance]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: The roll pin on my Rhino II was pressed in so much I cannot get a good grip with any of the tools I have to pull it out. I found a very thin drill bit so I will try that method out. It seems I cannot post pictures, or I am still too new to this forum and I am not allowed yet. I would say it sticks out 1mm which is not enough in my case. Stick a paperclip or small diameter drill bit in the roll pin hole and then grip the roll pin with a set of needle nose pliers. The drill bit/paperclip strengthens the roll pin and keeps it from deforming during the extraction process. Also, sounds like you need better pliers. I used a set of needle nose Knipex. My roll pin was also barely peeking out. |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:09:43 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: Same as always except the Pro is usable down to NL4 Light levels (NL5 is where you can't see your hand at the end of your arm). HDR actually works, which helps that <<<, and the "motion blur" on the EVF is a lot less somehow. FOV is wider than the original units. They still need to be run close, they still need external power for more than 2-3 hrs use. You're still "making it work" vs it being designed to work - just depends on what your requirements are, and how much you want to spend for what you need/can make due with. In practical use (going off previous .mil use), the 14 will give you a better looking image (technically it's always better, as analog has no "resolution") between NL6 and Good Moon/Ambient (NL 1-2) - which happens a lot. Courtesy of GroundhogOZ https://i.imgur.com/683dHDz.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: Originally Posted By Tomac: Okay, sold my Aurora and am trying to decide between the Pro or dropping the $$$ on a PVS-14. Rather than go back over the dozens of pages I've missed, what's the Cliff Notes on the Pro vs the PVS-14? TIA!... Tomac Same as always except the Pro is usable down to NL4 Light levels (NL5 is where you can't see your hand at the end of your arm). HDR actually works, which helps that <<<, and the "motion blur" on the EVF is a lot less somehow. FOV is wider than the original units. They still need to be run close, they still need external power for more than 2-3 hrs use. You're still "making it work" vs it being designed to work - just depends on what your requirements are, and how much you want to spend for what you need/can make due with. In practical use (going off previous .mil use), the 14 will give you a better looking image (technically it's always better, as analog has no "resolution") between NL6 and Good Moon/Ambient (NL 1-2) - which happens a lot. Courtesy of GroundhogOZ https://i.imgur.com/683dHDz.jpg Thx! So, good enough for defensive surveillance of the perimeter? I don't expect to be going helmet-mount again so night navigation isn't an issue. Thx again! Tomac |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:13:12 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFran42: Stick a paperclip or small diameter drill bit in the roll pin hole and then grip the roll pin with a set of needle nose pliers. The drill bit/paperclip strengthens the roll pin and keeps it from deforming during the extraction process. Also, sounds like you need better pliers. I used a set of needle nose Knipex. My roll pin was also barely peeking out. I did exactly that. My pliers can't bite the roll pin. I tried needle nose and a few others. Right now I am working on thinning the walls of that roll pin until it gives out. I don't want to enlarge the hole diameter of the Rhino. |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:15:42 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: I did exactly that. My pliers can't bite the roll pin. I tried needle nose and a few others. Right now I am working on thinning the walls of that roll pin until it gives out. I don't want to enlarge the hole diameter of the Rhino. Try on the other end (diagonal to the roll pin you are working on). The bayonet socket can be pulled off from either end. Is the other roll pin sticking out a little further? |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 1:19:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Advance]
[#29]
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USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:09:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tomac: Thx! So, good enough for defensive surveillance of the perimeter? I don't expect to be going helmet-mount again so night navigation isn't an issue. Thx again! Tomac My advice for that requirement (if you just want to detect "People", and not ID *Who* it is), would be spend about $300 more, and get an AGM Micro 384 Thermal. Heck, Gaspain even made a helmet mount for it. |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:11:58 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: My advice for that requirement (if you just want to detect "People", and not ID *Who* it is), would be spend about $300 more, and get an AGM Micro 384 Thermal. Heck, Gaspain even made a helmet mount for it. agreed, faster to scan a sector @tomac https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_18/514118_AGM-Asp-Micro-TM384-and-TM160-thermal-INFO-thread.html |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:20:49 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFran42: location of roll pins. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/WPC-Q-000003_1_18_29_PM_png-1624729.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/309598/WPC-Q-000004_1_21_21_PM_png-1624740.JPG Thanks. Too late. That one looks pretty small too. I guess I need better quality pliers. I kinda mangled the hole a little. I'll see if a 3/32 roll pin will fit in there. If not a good old screw will do the trick. Are you a member on Mud as well? |
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USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:23:03 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: Thanks. Too late. That one looks pretty small too. I guess I need better quality pliers. I kinda mangled the hole a little. I'll see if a 3/32 roll pin will fit in there. If not a good old screw will do the trick. I actually never even replaced my front roll pin, LOL |
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Posted: 10/7/2020 2:45:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Tomac]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gaspain: agreed, faster to scan a sector @tomac https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_18/514118_AGM-Asp-Micro-TM384-and-TM160-thermal-INFO-thread.html  ETA: Just picked one up from Kenzie Optics off Ebay for $1250. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/7/2020 7:30:22 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mickdonaldson: I actually never even replaced my front roll pin, LOL I am sure I will have the first mount ever with loctite on it. |
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Posted: 10/8/2020 2:21:54 PM EDT
[#36]
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Posted: 10/8/2020 4:15:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Banditman]
[#37]
Quote HistoryThat is what I have. Works fine for me |
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Posted: 10/8/2020 7:15:10 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote Historythis is also what I am using. works as well as I could hope.
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Posted: 10/8/2020 8:19:27 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By slappomatt: this is also what I am using. works as well as I could hope. Same. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2020 12:51:43 AM EDT
[#40]
Did I actually get the wrong adapter for my Rhino II?
I am having a terrible time sliding the adapter on the Rhino's rails. I used a screwdriver to lift the stainless steel catch up and it moved maybe halfway in. Is there a trick to doing this the right way? This is the one I got as indicated in previous posts. https://tnvc.com/shop/norotos-pvs-15-pvs-18-socket-for-aka2-mount/ |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 12:55:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: Did I actually get the wrong adapter for my Rhino II? I am having a terrible time sliding the adapter on the Rhino's rails. I used a screwdriver to lift the stainless steel catch up and it moved maybe halfway in. Is there a trick to doing this the right way? This is the one I got as indicated in previous posts. https://tnvc.com/shop/norotos-pvs-15-pvs-18-socket-for-aka2-mount/ that is correct. But maybe your Norotos RHNO II is a fake? or you put it on with the rail locking mechanism out of place...though not sure that is possible. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2020 1:28:35 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gaspain: that is correct. But maybe your Norotos RHNO II is a fake? or you put it on with the rail locking mechanism out of place...though not sure that is possible. I ended up prying that tab with a screwdriver then used retard strength to force it in. Sliding back and fort a few times it seems to be getting a little better/easier to slide. |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 1:32:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: gaspain]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: I ended up prying that tab with a screwdriver then used retard strength to force it in. Sliding back and fort a few times it seems to be getting a little better/easier to slide. not sure what you mean by tab...no tab on mine just post a picture |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2020 1:43:54 AM EDT
[#44]
I haven't figure out how to post a picture here yet.
I am referring to the slide stop steel tab which acts as a brake when the lever is turned. |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 1:49:00 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: I haven't figure out how to post a picture here yet. I am referring to the slide stop steel tab which acts as a brake when the lever is turned. that might be flipped to the wrong side, take apart move lever to other side? I dunno. |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 1:50:28 AM EDT
[#46]
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USA
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Posted: 10/9/2020 3:21:08 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: I haven't figure out how to post a picture here yet. I am referring to the slide stop steel tab which acts as a brake when the lever is turned. Straight up and down on that lever for install/adjustment...forward or backward to lock it. Grease up the rails - after I Cerakoted mine, the tolerances tightened up a lot - I just used synthetic grease on the rails to get everything smooth again. |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 10:09:22 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dixy2k: Did I actually get the wrong adapter for my Rhino II? I am having a terrible time sliding the adapter on the Rhino's rails. I used a screwdriver to lift the stainless steel catch up and it moved maybe halfway in. Is there a trick to doing this the right way? This is the one I got as indicated in previous posts. https://tnvc.com/shop/norotos-pvs-15-pvs-18-socket-for-aka2-mount/ @dixy2k Did you remove one of the roll pins? Did you remove the bayonet mount? |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 10:23:03 AM EDT
[#49]
RHNO II dovetail conversion:
You MUST start with a RHNO II (not a RHNO). The RHNO II has two "I-beams".  Attached FilePull one of the roll pins.  Attached FileSlide existing bayonet mount off.  Attached FileSlide dovetail mounting plate on.  Attached File Attached File |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/9/2020 11:57:32 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PFran42: @dixy2k Did you remove one of the roll pins? Did you remove the bayonet mount? Of course I did. Yes, the locking lever is straight up/down when it is loose and enables the adapter to move on the rails. Maybe because I have none other to compare it with my input is skewed. Do the pictures posted here have to be hosted somewhere else? I can't find a direct way to attach anything here like on other forums. I've been on various forums for the past 20 years though. |
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