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Posted: 4/3/2020 12:58:06 PM EDT
[#1]
The email blast broke the website earlier!
 They look good and even offer a nice drill fixture. I stopped at them being aluminum though. |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:08:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The email blast broke the website earlier! They look good and even offer a nice drill fixture. I stopped at them being aluminum though. I was in for one until I saw that. If you look at the individual cups, they come in steel. I wonder if it's a typo? |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:14:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was in for one until I saw that. If you look at the individual cups, they come in steel. I wonder if it's a typo? It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea 
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:25:30 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea I guess I meant in the actual rifle kit. Makes no sense really. |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:42:25 PM EDT
[#5]
I'm going to cry when the rifle kit comes out, my 11" modular can is costing me way too much.
Kharn |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:52:55 PM EDT
[#6]
Selling that together with drill jigs and "Form 1 service" won't last long...…
There is a fine line between a "solvent trap" and a "silencer kit".... |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 1:55:51 PM EDT
[#7]
JR Machine has a similar product available in Titanium
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Posted: 4/3/2020 2:17:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Selling that together with drill jigs and "Form 1 service" won't last long...… There is a fine line between a "solvent trap" and a "silencer kit".... This is nothing new, save for the "service". Companies have been selling traps and jigs for quite a while now. The "service" just seems like them filing the eform, for you. Not seeing how any of this would be shut down, but the ATF has made crazier decisions. |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 2:20:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea Those kits in 7075 are best for sub-guns or maybe 300 Blackout subsonic. On most other centerfire cartridges I’d want the first two or three baffles in steel. If people don’t clip those they’ll likely be disappointed. Being that it’s Silencershop they’ll probably sell a bunch. Lots of folks may find that thread-up design frustrating if they fiddle with it too much. These won’t save much money but the impatient and under-resourced will likely jump all over them. My biggest concern with lowering barriers to entry and democratization is getting the bureaucrats panties tight and unwanted attention for tighter controls or longer stamp delays. |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 3:36:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I was in for one until I saw that. If you look at the individual cups, they come in steel. I wonder if it's a typo? It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 3:55:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those kits in 7075 are best for sub-guns or maybe 300 Blackout subsonic. On most other centerfire cartridges I’d want the first two or three baffles in steel. If people don’t clip those they’ll likely be disappointed. Being that it’s Silencershop they’ll probably sell a bunch. Lots of folks may find that thread-up design frustrating if they fiddle with it too much. These won’t save much money but the impatient and under-resourced will likely jump all over them. My biggest concern with lowering barriers to entry and democratization is getting the bureaucrats panties tight and unwanted attention for tighter controls or longer stamp delays. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It's not. They offer the Al ones for $41/ea and the SS are $59/ea Those kits in 7075 are best for sub-guns or maybe 300 Blackout subsonic. On most other centerfire cartridges I’d want the first two or three baffles in steel. If people don’t clip those they’ll likely be disappointed. Being that it’s Silencershop they’ll probably sell a bunch. Lots of folks may find that thread-up design frustrating if they fiddle with it too much. These won’t save much money but the impatient and under-resourced will likely jump all over them. My biggest concern with lowering barriers to entry and democratization is getting the bureaucrats panties tight and unwanted attention for tighter controls or longer stamp delays. If someone doesn't know what clipping is, and they've bought one of these for Form 1 use, I bet their actual reaction will be "I built a silencer in my garage, look at this shit! The gun now goes 'bang!' instead of BANG!!" Kharn |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 3:56:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: JR Machine has a similar product available in Titanium @born2lose76 That's not exactly an easy name to search for, could you provide a link? Kharn |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 5:05:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @born2lose76 That's not exactly an easy name to search for, could you provide a link? Kharn jrmachinepro 
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Posted: 4/3/2020 5:36:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @born2lose76 That's not exactly an easy name to search for, could you provide a link? Kharn jrmachinepro https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0317/3217/0811/products/[email protected]?v=1584326818 Too bad he doesn't offer 1.375-24. Kharn |
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Posted: 4/3/2020 11:51:35 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistorySell a jig and I am in. Disappointed in the silencershop - aluminium suppressor for a rifle? |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 4:08:44 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @born2lose76 That's not exactly an easy name to search for, could you provide a link? Kharn jrmachinepro https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0317/3217/0811/products/[email protected]?v=1584326818 Yessir, that’s the one. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 4:10:35 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sell a jig and I am in. I purchased last night, but would love to have a jig for this |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 9:53:36 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I purchased last night, but would love to have a jig for this Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Sell a jig and I am in. I purchased last night, but would love to have a jig for this |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 10:40:47 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just take your time and just go up 3 bit sizes or so per run. This is an incorrect usage of drill bits. This results in the bit's outside cutting edge dulling, near the margin. The correct way is to start w/ a center drill and finish to size. As I stated in the other thread "For reference, I can punch a 3/8" hole, w/ a HSS bit, through 1/2" 316L PL, doing ~150rpm, w/ a single drop of oil, in under a minute. And, no, the bit isn't ruined, afterwards. A 1/16" thick piece of Ti shouldn't be giving that much trouble. " |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 11:22:35 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is an incorrect usage of drill bits. This results in the bit's outside cutting edge dulling, near the margin. The correct way is to start w/ a center drill and finish to size. As I stated in the other thread "For reference, I can punch a 3/8" hole, w/ a HSS bit, through 1/2" 316L PL, doing ~150rpm, w/ a single drop of oil, in under a minute. And, no, the bit isn't ruined, afterwards. A 1/16" thick piece of Ti shouldn't be giving that much trouble. " Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Just take your time and just go up 3 bit sizes or so per run. This is an incorrect usage of drill bits. This results in the bit's outside cutting edge dulling, near the margin. The correct way is to start w/ a center drill and finish to size. As I stated in the other thread "For reference, I can punch a 3/8" hole, w/ a HSS bit, through 1/2" 316L PL, doing ~150rpm, w/ a single drop of oil, in under a minute. And, no, the bit isn't ruined, afterwards. A 1/16" thick piece of Ti shouldn't be giving that much trouble. " I don't think my press goes anywhere close to as slow as 150 rpms though. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 4:08:12 PM EDT
[#21]
Very intrigued by these. On the clipping argument. Is it very necessary on a 9mm sub gun?
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Posted: 4/4/2020 5:08:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Very intrigued by these. On the clipping argument. Is it very necessary on a 9mm sub gun? Yes, you need to clip. Go ahead and give it a try, w/o. Then, you have something to compare it to 
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Posted: 4/4/2020 5:36:54 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good to know, thanks. My results have been fine but it does take a while to change through all the bits. I don't think my press goes anywhere close to as slow as 150 rpms though. This is where a step drill comes in handy. It is reasonably stiff on the small starter hole and if you start centered it stays centered. You can center with two spotters or with light pressure manually spin the chuck counter clockwise and let the work piece float into center. Then a little cutting fluid and steady pressure at your slowest speed and you can get good results. Then clip the thickest part of the tip to reduce average hole runout (this assumes part was turned concentric at tip referenced to rim/skirt). |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 6:53:34 PM EDT
[#24]
$35 form submittal.
$100 drill jig. $500 materials. $88 mount. $39 endcap. $58 endcap jig. $25 wench. Your aluminum can eroding quickly... priceless. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 7:25:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: $35 form submittal. $100 drill jig. $500 materials. $25 wench. Your aluminum can eroding quickly... priceless. I am confused by this. They also list steel threaded cups for sale separately. Is the rifle can really Aluminium? Crazy if so. Anyway.. if that's the case, pass. I wonder though.. are the other company's cups listed on this page threaded the same? Would the drill jigs work on them? |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 7:58:27 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: $35 form submittal. $100 drill jig. $500 materials. $25 wench. Your aluminum can eroding quickly... priceless. These kits are certainly not a bargain, and could easily be used inappropriately. Thus they are marketed towards the impatient and the under-resourced. I wonder what sort of instructions/advice they come with? We may be at that awkward stage where the wisdom of the crowd is about to meet the bell curve at the left tail. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 8:22:49 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is where a step drill comes in handy. It is reasonably stiff on the small starter hole and if you start centered it stays centered. You can center with two spotters or with light pressure manually spin the chuck counter clockwise and let the work piece float into center. Then a little cutting fluid and steady pressure at your slowest speed and you can get good results. Then clip the thickest part of the tip to reduce average hole runout (this assumes part was turned concentric at tip referenced to rim/skirt). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Good to know, thanks. My results have been fine but it does take a while to change through all the bits. I don't think my press goes anywhere close to as slow as 150 rpms though. This is where a step drill comes in handy. It is reasonably stiff on the small starter hole and if you start centered it stays centered. You can center with two spotters or with light pressure manually spin the chuck counter clockwise and let the work piece float into center. Then a little cutting fluid and steady pressure at your slowest speed and you can get good results. Then clip the thickest part of the tip to reduce average hole runout (this assumes part was turned concentric at tip referenced to rim/skirt). I'm doing more on lathe now and less on the press though, seem to have found my stride mostly. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 8:42:43 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: These kits are certainly not a bargain, and could easily be used inappropriately. Thus they are marketed towards the impatient and the under-resourced. I wonder what sort of instructions/advice they come with? We may be at that awkward stage where the wisdom of the crowd is about to meet the bell curve at the left tail. Oh, wait! That $500 doesn’t include the mount?! ... Or endcap?! The fuuuuuuck?! 
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Posted: 4/4/2020 8:52:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am confused by this. They also list steel threaded cups for sale separately. Is the rifle can really Aluminium? Crazy if so. Anyway.. if that's the case, pass. I wonder though.. are the other company's cups listed on this page threaded the same? Would the drill jigs work on them? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: $35 form submittal. $100 drill jig. $500 materials. $25 wench. Your aluminum can eroding quickly... priceless. I am confused by this. They also list steel threaded cups for sale separately. Is the rifle can really Aluminium? Crazy if so. Anyway.. if that's the case, pass. I wonder though.. are the other company's cups listed on this page threaded the same? Would the drill jigs work on them? From the link- Build Materials: 7075 Billet Aluminum The stainless cups are the “HD” and are not included in the kit. FYI... They are $60 each. Quite possibly the most expensive cup/ divider I’ve ever seen. Build list above plus three stainless cups for blast chambers before the aluminum comes to... $1,025.00 plus tax and shipping. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 10:41:20 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank youmI used...tried to use...one of those on my first foray. In retrospect I think I tried to go too slowly and burned it up a little bit. Maybe i should try another one. I'm doing more on lathe now and less on the press though, seem to have found my stride mostly. You can get step drills in more durable cobalt hardened high speed steel for about twice the price. But even normal HSS can drill titanium with proper feeds and speeds. If you burned one up your RPM was probably too high. Cutting fluid helps also. I tried using step drills on a lathe to start hogging out a cone for a flash hider. It seemed like it would be easier than a boring bar. Not such a good idea. They don’t work too well for deep drilling but are great for holes in thin walls. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 11:37:33 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oh, wait! That $500 doesn’t include the mount?! ... Or endcap?! The fuuuuuuck?! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: These kits are certainly not a bargain, and could easily be used inappropriately. Thus they are marketed towards the impatient and the under-resourced. I wonder what sort of instructions/advice they come with? We may be at that awkward stage where the wisdom of the crowd is about to meet the bell curve at the left tail. Oh, wait! That $500 doesn’t include the mount?! ... Or endcap?! The fuuuuuuck?! $499 includes an endcap and a threaded 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 mount, you have the option to buy an extra of each on the configuration screen. Kharn |
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Posted: 4/5/2020 10:48:17 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can get step drills in more durable cobalt hardened high speed steel for about twice the price. But even normal HSS can drill titanium with proper feeds and speeds. If you burned one up your RPM was probably too high. Cutting fluid helps also. I tried using step drills on a lathe to start hogging out a cone for a flash hider. It seemed like it would be easier than a boring bar. Not such a good idea. They don't work too well for deep drilling but are great for holes in thin walls. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thank youmI used...tried to use...one of those on my first foray. In retrospect I think I tried to go too slowly and burned it up a little bit. Maybe i should try another one. I'm doing more on lathe now and less on the press though, seem to have found my stride mostly. You can get step drills in more durable cobalt hardened high speed steel for about twice the price. But even normal HSS can drill titanium with proper feeds and speeds. If you burned one up your RPM was probably too high. Cutting fluid helps also. I tried using step drills on a lathe to start hogging out a cone for a flash hider. It seemed like it would be easier than a boring bar. Not such a good idea. They don't work too well for deep drilling but are great for holes in thin walls. |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 3:24:49 PM EDT
[#33]
Disregard, I found the answer
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Posted: 4/9/2020 1:15:17 AM EDT
[#34]
After I first saw the picture on SS's site of their drilling jig, I thought "damn, should have thought of that...". I had initially thought it screwed onto the tip of the cone, similar to how my jigs fit over the tip. Then I found a picture of how they intend the drilling jig to be used and I now know they did it wrong.
I will be offering drilling jigs for their cones, with end-user removable drill bushings allowing multiple caliber choices, that screw onto the tip of the cone, as well as a cone holder to grip the base of the cone while drilling and clipping. I will also be offering the same for JR's cones. Renderings tomorrow. "Patent Pending" ETA: Best way to get ahold of me in on the https://form1suppressor.boards.net/forum |
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Posted: 4/9/2020 7:48:17 AM EDT
[#35]
JK drill jig so we can see what is going on.
I think they were going for idiot proof? Are there flats inside to grab the wrench flats on the cone? Kharn |
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Posted: 4/13/2020 7:04:16 AM EDT
[#36]
This thread has likely save me from serious a$$ pain. I was intrigued by these solvent trap solutions for their secondary purpose. That said, I fall into the cheap and inpatient crowd. Family life can do that to a man.
These seem perfect for a pistol though, for a guy like me. There’s no information, I’ve seen, on suppression quality, ie db reduction. Unless my Irish ADD missed reading that part on the product description? So how do we determine quality? Either way, at the functional rifle price, I’d rather buy a Gemtech GP5 for the savings and health concerns cited above with aluminum suppressors. Did I miss anything? |
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Posted: 4/13/2020 11:53:00 AM EDT
[#37]
You didn’t miss anything. To run on a pistol add a $110 steel booster housing (if you can find one in stock anywhere) and a $70 piston for your muzzle threading. That’s probably 2-3 more ounces net weight gain. A commercial pistol suppressor can be had for less, and be lighter, easier to maintain, and have warranty support.
As sold it’s fine for a PCC or subgun. But for high volume shooting all of those threaded connections could be problematic over time. I think it would be an interesting addition to a collection, but as a first suppressor many will find it to be a bad fit. If Maglite had their act together they’d sell Maglite themed liquor flasks with 5/8-24 threaded plugs for the opening, filler funnel or shot cup sets, and metering pour spout caps. Collect the entire set! 
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Posted: 4/22/2020 4:53:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Forgive me if this has already been done better with other products or if my understanding of the law is incorrect, but isn’t a (potentially) major advantage with this type of tubeless suppressor that, when filing your form 1, you can list an excessively long length and drill out more cups than you ever intend on using at once so that you can swap out ones that may get damaged/worn out since you can’t replace cups on your own with a standard suppressor?
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Posted: 4/22/2020 6:57:34 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Forgive me if this has already been done better with other products or if my understanding of the law is incorrect, but isn’t a (potentially) major advantage with this type of tubeless suppressor that, when filing your form 1, you can list an excessively long length and drill out more cups than you ever intend on using at once so that you can swap out ones that may get damaged/worn out since you can’t replace cups on your own with a standard suppressor? As long as you never reached the listed length, couldn't you continue making extensions, and also destroying damaged components that are beyond their serviceable life, except the serial numbered component? Kharn |
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Posted: 4/24/2020 3:18:55 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As long as you never reached the listed length, couldn't you continue making extensions, and also destroying damaged components that are beyond their serviceable life, except the serial numbered component? Kharn Would the ATF would frown on you drilling out 100 cups if you listed the can as 24” on your form 1 and each cup was (random number for ease of discussion) 1” thick since that’s more cups that you could assemble into the design they approved? |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:08:56 PM EDT
[#41]
This is what happens when you run 5.56 through it. Less than 8 mags. Unknown barrel length or ammo.
*not mine. Pic from owner on FB.  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:24:19 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: This is what happens when you run 5.56 through it. Less than 8 mags. Unknown barrel length or ammo. *not mine. Pic from owner on FB. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/158348/1F0BB18A-4BCF-4D0B-8C12-59E52C9A138C_jpe-1398332.JPG Saying "Rifle" for cones and "pistol" for radials when both are made out of aluminum is a bit of a misnomer. At least he can buy a bunch of replacement parts and have an SOT fix it for him. And it certainly shows the need for a blast baffle. Kharn |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:29:25 PM EDT
[#43]
Yeah....aluminum baffles are a no-go for rifle cans, save for carry-a-lot-shoot-very-little hunting featherweights. Even at that, they need the first couple to be a tougher material. My Phantom 8 is a Ti tube, Ti mount & Ti front cap. It has 7 anodized 7075-T651 baffles, but the first two are 17-4 H900. They're pretty thin to keep weight down, but still way tougher than Al. My initial prototypes only had one 17-4 blast baffle, and I still saw a lot of erosion on the second baffle (even with an integral Ti muzzle brake), so a change was made.
. |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:31:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: Saying "Rifle" for cones and "pistol" for radials when both are made out of aluminum is a bit of a misnomer. At least he can buy a bunch of replacement parts and have an SOT fix it for him. And it certainly shows the need for a blast baffle. Kharn Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: This is what happens when you run 5.56 through it. Less than 8 mags. Unknown barrel length or ammo. *not mine. Pic from owner on FB. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/158348/1F0BB18A-4BCF-4D0B-8C12-59E52C9A138C_jpe-1398332.JPG Saying "Rifle" for cones and "pistol" for radials when both are made out of aluminum is a bit of a misnomer. At least he can buy a bunch of replacement parts and have an SOT fix it for him. And it certainly shows the need for a blast baffle. Kharn I don’t think a couple of steel blast baffles would have saved it. They all eroded. Aluminum doesn’t belong on high pressure rounds. Just my observation here. I have a keen eye for the obviously broke. But you’re right... off to a sot it goes. They’ll at least salvage the stamp cost. Maybe he was just using the 5.56 to drill out the cones to shoot .338 though it. |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:42:03 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: I don’t think a couple of steel blast baffles would have saved it. They all eroded. Aluminum doesn’t belong on high pressure rounds. Just my observation here. I have a keen eye for the obviously broke. Pressure isn't the problem. It's heat and abrasion. Once you get aluminum over 350°F, the strength drops very rapidly. When the substrate becomes soft, the protective anodizing cracks & chips off, exposing the soft substrate, which is then flame cut and blasted by debris like you see above. That's why my Phantom 8 is rated for 2 rds/min max sustained with .308/.30-06 class rounds and 1 round/min with magnums or anything else burning 60+ gr charges. I've seen good life out of it on my .25-06, and my sister and her spouse have them for their 6.5 creed and .280 rem, no issues. But again, it's a case of a 3-shot sight in group or three before the season and then hopefully get to take a shot or two at critters, no real volume. It wouldn't fare much better than the baffles in the photos if someone went to town with it on an AR. |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 10:57:06 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Pressure isn't the problem. It's heat and abrasion. Once you get aluminum over 350°F, the strength drops very rapidly. When the substrate becomes soft, the protective anodizing cracks & chips off, exposing the soft substrate, which is then flame cut and blasted by debris like you see above. That's why my Phantom 8 is rated for 2 rds/min max sustained with .308/.30-06 class rounds and 1 round/min with magnums or anything else burning 60+ gr charges. I've seen good life out of it on my .25-06, and my sister and her spouse have them for their 6.5 creed and .280 rem, no issues. But again, it's a case of a 3-shot sight in group or three before the season and then hopefully get to take a shot or two at critters, no real volume. It wouldn't fare much better than the baffles in the photos if someone went to town with it on an AR. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Sixtysixdeuce: Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: I don’t think a couple of steel blast baffles would have saved it. They all eroded. Aluminum doesn’t belong on high pressure rounds. Just my observation here. I have a keen eye for the obviously broke. Pressure isn't the problem. It's heat and abrasion. Once you get aluminum over 350°F, the strength drops very rapidly. When the substrate becomes soft, the protective anodizing cracks & chips off, exposing the soft substrate, which is then flame cut and blasted by debris like you see above. That's why my Phantom 8 is rated for 2 rds/min max sustained with .308/.30-06 class rounds and 1 round/min with magnums or anything else burning 60+ gr charges. I've seen good life out of it on my .25-06, and my sister and her spouse have them for their 6.5 creed and .280 rem, no issues. But again, it's a case of a 3-shot sight in group or three before the season and then hopefully get to take a shot or two at critters, no real volume. It wouldn't fare much better than the baffles in the photos if someone went to town with it on an AR. You explained it much better. Thanks. I should have said aluminum doesn’t belong on my high pressure round cans. I probably couldn’t be that gentle. BTW, I’m going to send you something this week. You’ll know it’s from me when you get it... |
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Posted: 5/2/2020 11:08:41 PM EDT
[#47]
Self-clipping baffles. Looks like a marketable feature.
“Our dynamic flame-cut baffle design produces unique, random, turbulence inducing features, and leverages the benefits of a self-cleaning alloy with less weight gain than old-technology fixed bore designs”. “So complex that Oak Ridge National Labs super computers haven’t even attempted to model the ever changing computational fluid dynamics. “ I’d package it with free X-ray glasses so the user can experience the thrill without getting their fingers dirty. Sorry, the pictures of those baffle volcano rims just cracks me up. |
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Posted: 5/3/2020 12:28:22 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KalmanPhilter: “Our dynamic flame-cut baffle design produces unique, random, turbulence inducing features, and leverages the benefits of a self-cleaning alloy with less weight gain than old-technology fixed bore designs”. “So complex that Oak Ridge National Labs super computers haven’t even attempted to model the ever changing computational fluid dynamics. “ This almost cost me a new keyboard. 
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Posted: 5/3/2020 8:27:31 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is what happens when you run 5.56 through it. Less than 8 mags. Unknown barrel length or ammo. *not mine. Pic from owner on FB. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/158348/1F0BB18A-4BCF-4D0B-8C12-59E52C9A138C_jpe-1398332.JPG  |
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Posted: 5/3/2020 2:23:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: I don’t think a couple of steel blast baffles would have saved it. They all eroded. Aluminum doesn’t belong on high pressure rounds. Just my observation here. I have a keen eye for the obviously broke. But you’re right... off to a sot it goes. They’ll at least salvage the stamp cost. Maybe he was just using the 5.56 to drill out the cones to shoot .338 though it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: Originally Posted By Kharn: Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG: This is what happens when you run 5.56 through it. Less than 8 mags. Unknown barrel length or ammo. *not mine. Pic from owner on FB. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/158348/1F0BB18A-4BCF-4D0B-8C12-59E52C9A138C_jpe-1398332.JPG Saying "Rifle" for cones and "pistol" for radials when both are made out of aluminum is a bit of a misnomer. At least he can buy a bunch of replacement parts and have an SOT fix it for him. And it certainly shows the need for a blast baffle. Kharn I don’t think a couple of steel blast baffles would have saved it. They all eroded. Aluminum doesn’t belong on high pressure rounds. Just my observation here. I have a keen eye for the obviously broke. But you’re right... off to a sot it goes. They’ll at least salvage the stamp cost. Maybe he was just using the 5.56 to drill out the cones to shoot .338 though it. The debris from the first baffle blowing into the second, third, etc, didn't help matters, it sand-blasted them. Hopefully the owner waits for the steel version to be released before he has it rebuilt. Kharn |
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