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Posted: 9/24/2020 12:54:47 PM EDT
[#1]
Plenty of people go semi-permanent with direct thread cans.
I'd use rocksett. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 1:29:53 PM EDT
[#2]
Rockset is an option, as mentioned.
I will say, however, that a single wrap of mil-spec Teflon tape will not let a suppressor loosen. Even tough it's only rated to 550F, I've had cans red and the tape still did its job. If you want the can off, simply unscrew it. No messing with soaking it, heating it, etc. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 1:41:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rockset is an option, as mentioned. I will say, however, that a single wrap of mil-spec Teflon tape will not let a suppressor loosen. Even tough it's only rated to 550F, I've had cans red and the tape still did its job. If you want the can off, simply unscrew it. No messing with soaking it, heating it, etc. Teflon tape makes things slipperier, not grippier. Considering the threads aren't tapered, not sure how that helps? |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 1:52:38 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:Teflon tape makes things slipperier, not grippier. Considering the threads aren't tapered, not sure how that helps? Lol, no. Teflon tape is used in tapered threads because they only have ~75% thread contact and don't seal themselves. It's not because they need to be slippery  The teflon tape (mil-spec is much thicker than the regular crap) makes the threads tighter. Once shouldered, the mating threads are fixed together quite well. I've been relying on this method for over a decade and haven't been let down yet, not once. Give it a try. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 2:04:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Lol, no. Teflon tape is used in tapered threads because they only have ~75% thread contact and don't seal themselves. It's not because they need to be slippery The teflon tape (mil-spec is much thicker than the regular crap) makes the threads tighter. Once shouldered, the mating threads are fixed together quite well. I've been relying on this method for over a decade and haven't been let down yet, not once. Give it a try. You're obviously not a plumber. Let me direct you to an online resource. PTFE tape lubricates the threads (aka makes the slippery) allowing for a deeper, and therefore tighter seal, because again, it's used on tapered threads. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 2:16:05 PM EDT
[#6]
Throwing out another suggestion, have Ecco Machine convert it to Omega thread pattern so you can run it on tons of mount options these days.
Trek is 2nd from right. This is using Area 419's mount and muzzle device.    
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Posted: 9/24/2020 2:18:38 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You're obviously not a plumber. Let me direct you to an online resource. PTFE tape lubricates the threads (aka makes the slippery) allowing for a deeper, and therefore tighter seal, because again, it's used on tapered threads. No, I'm not a plumber. I design industrial boilers, kilns, oil & gas burners, etc. The slipperiness is almost irrelevant. You can get NPT threads to seal w/ sand; which, last time I checked, isn't very slippery. NPT threads need something to take-up the remaining space where there's no metal to metal contact. The tape, just like any other non-ptfe sealant, does so. You can argue w/ the internet all you like, until you try something, you never really know 
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Posted: 9/24/2020 2:38:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, I'm not a plumber. I design industrial boilers, kilns, oil & gas burners, etc. The slipperiness is almost irrelevant. You can get NPT threads to seal w/ sand; which, last time I checked, isn't very slippery. NPT threads need something to take-up the remaining space where there's no metal to metal contact. The tape, just like any other non-ptfe sealant, does so. You can argue w/ the internet all you like, until you try something, you never really know I don't need to try it. Turns out, you don't need to use anything. Torque specs for threads are readily available and if you torque it appropriately on the shoulder it will stay put, without the need of packing the threads with anything. My Genesis has stayed put for 7 years no issues, just torqueing it down per spec. Anywhere 35-50 ft lbs is just fine, and it won't go anywhere. And if one prefers to actually lock the threads, then something like Precote 30 is probably best in an application such as this. Not that I personally use it or feel it's necessary. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 2:40:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Carbon will usually lock it on pretty good after a couple range trips
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Posted: 9/24/2020 4:00:52 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for all the suggestions and the entertaining argument. I may just rockset it on but I'm still open to other ideas.
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Posted: 9/24/2020 4:14:01 PM EDT
[#11]
I have a Sig SRD556dt that I use in the same fashion you are planning.
I just put a few shims on the muzzle and torqued it down like a flash hider, seems to hold well. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 4:23:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Direct threads I simply use some anti-seize grease and proper torque. Never had one work loose yet.
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Posted: 9/24/2020 5:00:17 PM EDT
[#13]
I built this can just for this gun. Aluminum direact threat so I used the same grease you use on a barrel nut to upper receiver. Then just torqued it down. Other times I've used Teflon plummers tape with good results, especially on some pistol cans that like to work themselves loose.
For arguments sake, I'm sure someone will say how Teflon breaks down above 250C and releases brain damaging fumes. But i doubt that's much of an issue  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 5:32:21 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Carbon will usually lock it on pretty good after a couple range trips F'n A it will. Especially if it is a surefire. |
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Posted: 9/24/2020 11:46:40 PM EDT
[#15]
I've had good luck with a wrap of Teflon tape on the pistol silencers. My rifle cans use a positive lock/mount so no comment.
The 22TD stays put using the "snap" method, and is a real bitch to get off my TCR22, which has an o-ring on the threads. I guess I could take it off, but it seems to make sure the can stays tight. |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 1:34:37 PM EDT
[#16]
adjust layers of teflon tape as needed and I bet it will stay on pretty good. If not your thing, I bet some blue loctite would keep it on and along with a bronze wire brush, make detaching and reattaching for cleaning not too big of a hassle. Rocksett will definitely be more secure but much more of hassle to take on and off for cleaning.
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Posted: 9/25/2020 4:19:31 PM EDT
[#17]
I’ve got a direct thread can on my 224 Valkyrie that I shoot suppressed 100% of the time. To keep it in place and not worry about it loosening, I put a single drop of red 271 loctite in place. It’s cheap and easy to find locally in Walmart and home improvement stores, 500* temp break-loose point which I could achieve if needed; mostly doing precision shooting with the rifle without extended shot strings so it doesn’t heat up too badly
On my 9mm can I use a couple passes of Teflon tape and It works very well |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 5:22:30 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks to all the new replies, Im going to try some out this weekend and see what works for me.
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Posted: 9/25/2020 9:58:40 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for all the suggestions and the entertaining argument. I may just rockset it on but I'm still open to other ideas. One drop of Rocksett will likely be enough, yet still allow you to remove it later without too much effort. That's the direction I would go. |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 11:10:37 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: One drop of Rocksett will likely be enough, yet still allow you to remove it later without too much effort. That's the direction I would go. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thanks for all the suggestions and the entertaining argument. I may just rockset it on but I'm still open to other ideas. One drop of Rocksett will likely be enough, yet still allow you to remove it later without too much effort. That's the direction I would go. That is exactly what I would do for your situation. |
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Posted: 9/25/2020 11:45:48 PM EDT
[#21]
I'll be in this boat soon. For the moment I'm using the Keymo adapter I originally bought for an R9 on my new Turbo K. Once I have the R9 in hand I'll use the Keymo there so I'm thinking of going with the Jmac X37 mount for the Turbo K. That will effectively make it a direct thread via the 1.375x24 threads on the can body to the outside of the Jmac mount. Rockset or teflon tape would be used to keep the can in place.
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