School me on powder coating cast bullits. Update on OP.

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - School me on powder coating cast bullits. Update on OP.

Posted: 8/3/2018 7:20:42 PM EDT

I've got my casting going and getting much better at it. I think I want to start powder coating. I have no idea where to start. I've watched a few vids on youtube, but it seems that there are a lot ways of doing it.

What's the best way and equipment that I need to start, dont need high end shit, just something that will work.

Thanks.

So I went to Harbor Freight and got some powder and a toaster from Walmart. Didn't come out like I had planned. Been trying to upload pics but cant for the life of me figure out how the hell to do it.

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Posted: 8/3/2018 7:51:55 PM EDT

[#1]

I use Hi-Tek’s powder. It’s easy to apply and dirt cheap. Last I looked it’s about ~$40/lb for the powder. That’s enough to do a ton of bullets (maybe not literally, but it’s not far off).

Mix it with acetone, apply lightly in a bowl and shake until everything’s coated. Place on a rack to dry (I use aluminum window screen over a wire shelf). After it’s dry, place in an oven at 200*C for about 10 minutes. I use a cheap convection toaster oven from Walmart.

Repeat the process however many times you want. I usually do 2 coats for pistol and 3 for rifle.

Size with a push through sizer like a cheap Lee or the nicer NOE bushing sizer.

ETA: if the coating gets over cooked, or is sloppy, just toss them back in the pot. The coating breaks off once the bullet is molten and rises to the top as dross.

These are some Lee 9mm bullets in Hi-Tek Candy Apple Red.

Posted: 8/3/2018 8:05:12 PM EDT

[#2]

Watch more YouTube videos and search here.

The cheapest and best way is the one that works for you.

If the bullet passes the hammer test you achieved the end goal.

Powder coat paint is available everywhere.

Quickest, less mess, and most economical is to dry tumble the bullets in a plastic container.

Throw the bullets on a hardware clothe then into a cheap tosyet oven for 15 - 20 minutes.

Everyone has their favorite power, application and cook temp and times.

Really simple in the end.

Posted: 8/3/2018 10:33:44 PM EDT

[#3]

I learned at cast boolets (they spell bullet special over there) in this forum. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives Read the stickies.

I use HF, harbor freight, Red and the shake and bake method.

Cook at 400 degrees for 15 minutes using a $20 toaster oven I got at Wally world.

Size with a Lee bullet sizer that is a die that screws into your press.

Not hard to get good results. Good luck

Posted: 8/3/2018 10:40:04 PM EDT

[#4]

Thanks guys. Gonna hit up Harbor Freight in a couple days.

Posted: 8/3/2018 10:42:58 PM EDT

[#5]

I started with harbor freight powder coat. It is cheap and available. But I recommend trying smokes powder on castboolets. Not hard to find. His screen name is smoke

I use a very cheap toaster oven I got at Walmart.

Check castboolets. It is very informative and has all the info you need to start.

I have used a combination of heating my bullets before shaking and using the vibratory tumbler method.

Takes some experimenting.

Posted: 8/3/2018 11:07:52 PM EDT

[#6]

I use Powder by the pound.

Different colors. You can color chart your bullets. White for general purpose. Red for hot loads, yellow semi hot, green for plinking etc...

In polygonal bores, using a gas check helps as the soft powdercoat and lead will not engage with the rifling very well and accuracy will diminish.

Most say you don’t need the gas check if you powdercoat but for rifles, I gas check and powdercoat.

Good luck! Will save a lot of time cleaning lead out of your bore as you will not have any and the jacket is soft so it will keep the rifling longer.

Posted: 8/4/2018 9:22:22 AM EDT

[#7]

Use an old Cool-Whip bowl, fill it 1/3rd with black airsoft BB's, 1/2 tsp of powder and about 50-75 bullets. Swirl then shake like hell. Place on non-stick foil and bake.

I use All Powder Paints powder Arctic Cat Green. Works great and looks cool.

If you have too much powder in a batch add more bullets and shake again. If too many bullets add a tiny bit more powder and shake again.

I'm getting away from plain lead bullets. Once I shoot all the traditional lubed bullets I have then it will be all powder coated after that.

Posted: 8/4/2018 4:30:11 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
I learned at cast boolets (they spell bullet special over there) in this forum. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives Read the stickies.

https://i.imgur.com/NGyaChX.jpg

I use HF, harbor freight, Red and the shake and bake method.

Cook at 400 degrees for 15 minutes using a $20 toaster oven I got at Wally world.

Size with a Lee bullet sizer that is a die that screws into your press.

Not hard to get good results. Good luck

View Quote

I got my Triangle 5 container from Aldi. It is a Quart Margarine Container. Just clean it out really good.

One thing I found is you can put too much powder coat in the container. Just put a little, if you get too much it won't stick.

Posted: 8/11/2018 4:23:55 PM EDT

[#9]

Pics added in op

Posted: 8/11/2018 4:29:50 PM EDT

[#10]

I used the HF red and shake and bake. We've pushed 7.62 Tok reloads up 1500 fps with no leading. There was some powder coat build up on the end of my PPS43/52 barrel shroud. Other than that, I've had real good results with the dry tumble.

Posted: 8/11/2018 5:39:03 PM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
I've got my casting going and getting much better at it. I think I want to start powder coating. I have no idea where to start. I've watched a few vids on youtube, but it seems that there are a lot ways of doing it.

What's the best way and equipment that I need to start, dont need high end shit, just something that will work.

Thanks.

So I went to Harbor Freight and got some powder and a toaster from Walmart. Didn't come out like I had planned. Been trying to upload pics but cant for the life of me figure out how the hell to do it.

http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab336/jaytee450/20180811_140758_1.jpg" target="_blank">http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab336/jaytee450/20180811_140758_1.jpg

http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab336/jaytee450/20180811_141201_1.jpg" target="_blank">http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab336/jaytee450/20180811_141201_1.jpg

View Quote

They’re not perfect looking but they will work.

Mine are ugly too, I prefer function over looks.

Except in picking a wive.

Posted: 8/11/2018 5:59:27 PM EDT

[#12]

They are ugly and I haven't had a chance yet to shoot them. Hopefully will later today. To damn hot right now.

Posted: 8/11/2018 9:54:32 PM EDT

[#13]

Some folks in humid climates has problems getting HF red to cover fully.

Some questions. Just quote this post and answer next to the question, use blue font in your answer.( A' button at top of post window.)

Are you using the black 6mm BB's?

Using a #5 container with lid?

Not scrimping on the powder?

I don't think you can have too much powder in the container.

Have you done the hammer test?

End the shaking with hard up and down shaking?

Did you verify the 400 degree mark on your oven with an oven thermometer?

If your bullets pass the hammer test they will be fine, a little ugly doesn't matter.

Posted: 8/11/2018 11:42:03 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
Some folks in humid climates has problems getting HF red to cover fully.

Some questions. Just quote this post and answer next to the question, use blue font in your answer.( A' button at top of post window.)

Are you using the black 6mm BB's?

I didn't know about bbs

Using a #5 container with lid?

Yes

Not scrimping on the powder?

Bullets were completely covered and more

I don't think you can have too much powder in the container.

Have you done the hammer test?

Have seen that referenced but not sure what it is

End the shaking with hard up and down shaking?

Yes

Did you verify the 400 degree mark on your oven with an oven thermometer?

Brand new oven so no but I wii

If your bullets pass the hammer test they will be fine, a little ugly doesn't matter.

View Quote

Open up the View Quote window.

I edited your post with your answers in blue font. (Like I asked. It's so much easier to tell who said what if answers are in blue font)

The Crossman Black 6 mm BB's are an important part of static production. Got mine a wally world. Static is what make the powder stick to bullets. I suspect this is your main issue.

They have to be the black ones, other colors don't work as well. Something to do with the plastic used to make them. Crossman is the brand I found.

Hammer test; what proves you got good adhesion of the powder. Take a PC bullet and hammer flat. The PC should still be on bullet. If it flakes off, you did something wrong and bullet will lead.

Thermostats on cheap ovens are only a guide. Once you find 400 degrees, make a Sharpie mark to align the pointer for a true 400 degrees.

My oven reads 425 to get a true 400 degrees.

Posted: 8/12/2018 12:17:03 PM EDT

[#15]

I will try the hammer test. I apologize for my post I tried to post in blue but kept getting some kind of quote error. I will get some black bbs today.

Posted: 8/12/2018 12:23:58 PM EDT

[#16]

The material those black BBs are made of, along with the recycle type "5" container generate a static charge when you shake them. That is what makes the powder stick to the relatively un-charged bullet.

Type 5 is polypropylene, which has a moderate ability to produce static (while being sturdy and flexible). Black Airsoft BBs are also made of a moderate static material, but most, like Crossman's, are both seamless and "double polished." Smooth surfaces help build higher static charges. Old car radio antennas had a ball at the end for this purpose: the static generated by the antenna traveling through the air would collect at the tip and not interfere with reception.

That's WAY more science than it takes just to follow a "recipe" for coating bullets, but I think it helps to know that there is a reason for using specific stuff.

Posted: 8/12/2018 1:23:01 PM EDT

[#17]

It can be difficult to make static on hot humid days.

smelting, casting, and coating is winter time stuff for me.

Posted: 8/12/2018 1:58:30 PM EDT

[#18]

It is humid as fuck right now but I'm in my shop with ac so it's not so bad. Just did the hammer test and they did flake off so it's just cosmetic. I will try to get the black bbs tonight when I go out.

Posted: 8/12/2018 4:25:22 PM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:
It is humid as fuck right now but I'm in my shop with ac so it's not so bad. Just did the hammer test and they did flake off so it's just cosmetic. I will try to get the black bbs tonight when I go out.

View Quote

Try heating the bullets up before you tumble them. Just warm in the hand. Not to the point the powder coat sticks to them.

Another trick I found is to put the bullets in a container with a little sand and shake them up. It roughs up the surface a little and makes them dull. That seems to help with adhesion also.

Posted: 8/12/2018 8:33:59 PM EDT

[#20]

I got the black bbs, it will be a few days before I will be able to cast some mor bullets. I will update this thread when I do. I appreciate all the advice. Thanks guys.

Posted: 8/12/2018 8:55:30 PM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
I got the black bbs, it will be a few days before I will be able to cast some mor bullets. I will update this thread when I do. I appreciate all the advice. Thanks guys.

View Quote

Your welcome.

Posted: 9/1/2018 5:06:23 PM EDT

[#22]

It's been awhile since I updated this thread but I got some Eastman copper penny and tried it today on some .41cal hollow points. Only did a small batch.

Couple questions. One. How the hell do I get the gas check on now? Do I put them on first the powder coat them then resize them?

Second. Is the powder filling of the hollow cavity a bad thing? I've only done solid bullets so far this is my first shot at hollow points.
If so how do you stop the powder from filling up the cavity. Also how do you keep the damn bb's from sticking in there?

Posted: 9/1/2018 5:18:21 PM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:
It's been awhile since I updated this thread but I got some Eastman copper penny and tried it today on some .41cal hollow points. Only did a small batch.

Couple questions. One. How the hell do I get the gas check on now? Do I put them on first the powder coat them then resize them?

Second. Is the powder filling of the hollow cavity a bad thing? I've only done solid bullets so far this is my first shot at hollow points.
If so how do you stop the powder from filling up the cavity. Also how do you keep the damn bb's from sticking in there?

View Quote

When gas checks are installed is mold specific.

If gas check will not fit after powder coating, they have to be installed before powder coating.

I have to install them first with my 22 cal 55 gr and 310 gr 44 cal bullets. Yep, twice through the sizer.

PC will not effect the HP. Bullet will or won't expand regardless of the HP. That's what I have read on the Cast Bullets site.

BB's sticking in the HP? the correct BB's are 6 mm, how big is your HP?

Try shooting the bullets without the gas check, there is no fear of leading since you PC'd.

eta, look at my first post again at the pic. See the 22 and 44 bullets have a PC base? That's because the GC was installed before PC.

Posted: 9/1/2018 5:36:31 PM EDT

[#24]

As far as the hollow point it's pretty big. It's an NOE mold that drops a 250 gr hollow point and a cup point. Got it from my dad for my .41 cal wildcat based on the 445 super mag case.

The reason I asked about the gas check was isaw in your pic you had the gas check on after coating. I was not able to to put the gas checks on at all. Not even close.