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The 2 articles you link show the problem in the fact there aren't any large scale group testing of this..............

The "M14" article points out the difference is what 0.13"  ??  
Which is worth the effort?  Is that even statistically a difference?

The "Rifle Shooter"  is also flawed depending on how closely you examine the few groups he has.  What I mean is the first 2 groups of the UN-annealed are smaller in size.  It's the third which is bigger and then throws the average over the annealed.  But couldn't I just as easily say 2/3's of the un-annealed groups were smaller?

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I came across that same thread a couple months ago and I decided to give the salt bath annealing a try.  Here is my setup:
https://i.imgur.com/byzyqkv.jpg

I put this together for like $50.  I bought some potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate and mixed my own annealing salt.

So far I like it and think it works very well.  I don't know how many cases you are looking to do, but it actually goes pretty fast.  I can do two cases every 10 seconds, so 100 cases takes just over 8 minutes.  I use my phone to play a 5 second interval timer video from youtube to set the pace.  On the first beep I drop a case into each hole, on the second beep I pull them out and drop them into a bucket of water (that is well away from casting pot).  Lather, rinse, repeat.

As far as safety goes, 900 degree molten salt is NO JOKE, which should go without saying.  I feel pretty safe doing it though with only two small exposed holes to drop the cases through.  I actually drop the cases in and pull them out with my bare hands.  I'm less likely to slip and I like to make sure the case head stay cool (they don't even get warm).  While this system is certainly more labor intensive than a automatic annealing machine, its a LOT less expensive and if anything more consistent.

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Any links to the salt that you used?  I don't want to pay $16 shipping for $8 worth of salt from the creedmore link.

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We are no longer in the "heat neck until it's red and knock over in the water bath" method of the '60's.

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Actually a torch method is very precise if you use 750 degree Tempilaq.

We are no longer in the "heat neck until it's red and knock over in the water bath" method of the '60's.

It's more of a what method do you personally prefer thing.

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I finally got my salt bath put together today.  What is up with all of the foam using the two part salt method mentioned above?

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I purchased the parts and put together a PID controller that can be used to control the temp of the salt bath annealer as well as my lead casting pot.

PID controller

This is the one that I purchased, but it is the wrong type needed to run the SSR that you can get with the "bundle" (PID controller, SSR, Thermocouple) that is offered on the same page, down a little, on the left.  I found a tip on how to convert the RNR version to SNR by desoldering a relay inside the PID and jumping a couple of connections with short pieces of wire.  I ran to Lowes and bought the cheapest wall outlet and cover I could find.  Ended up with a black outlet and white cover (they were out of black covers).  Some scrap wood fashioned into a crude box, some holes cut and wired it up.  Johnny's Reloading Bench on YouTube has a how-to on building one, but I took an minimalist approach building mine.  Very few wires, no fuses/switches/bus bars or removable thermocouple.

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Interested in hearing more about how it is working out...

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Started making my case holder today.

I bought some 22ga steel at Lowes and some tin snips. I'm gonna use a file and my dremel to clean up the edges.

Here's the diagram I used from the 6.5 Creedmoor forum.

http://m2.i.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723552.fM7lzDFL.Plates.JPG

http://m0.i.pbase.com/o9/72/325172/1/164723550.6zSEguSW.CaseAnnealerInsertAnnotate.jpg