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S1050 up grades (Page 9 of 9)
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Link Posted: 4/23/2018 10:17:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/23/2018 10:20:30 PM EDT by 78Staff]
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:

Oh nice I ordered a couple... if they work as well as it appears I'll order more  Those screws drive me nuts.

I also picked up the annealeeze marker mount to try, seems like a clever idea.
View Quote
My four came in today, installed one quickly, works great.  plenty strong/tight enough and removes in seconds.  #Winning.  Prob gonna order four more.

Link Posted: 7/8/2018 4:10:09 PM EDT
Ok I’ve gone through this thread and now have all the updates except the powder pull tab.

I don’t have FB so in not sure where to get them.

The case feeder spring was the first thing I noticed, after 2k of 223 it started to fail now it works like a champ.

As far as the ratchet I keep it lubed and it works for me.  I don’t think I’ll remove it.

If anyone has anymore to add please do.  Let’s keep it alive.
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 4:27:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/12/2019 2:38:58 AM EDT by prskiller]
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Originally Posted By bm3:
Ok I’ve gone through this thread and now have all the updates except the powder pull tab.

I don’t have FB so in not sure where to get them.

The case feeder spring was the first thing I noticed, after 2k of 223 it started to fail now it works like a champ.

As far as the ratchet I keep it lubed and it works for me.  I don’t think I’ll remove it.

If anyone has anymore to add please do.  Let’s keep it alive.
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Get it here:
https://entirelycrimson.com/collections/dillon-super-1050/products/quick-disconnect-for-dillon-powder-alarm-1
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 4:43:21 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By prskiller:

Get it here:
http://entirelycrimson.com/ECPMQD.html
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Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/12/2018 5:24:24 PM EDT
The mad scientist friend of mine made me a funnel so I won’t spill and it works great.

Link Posted: 7/12/2018 11:56:24 PM EDT
Nice!
Link Posted: 10/27/2018 10:56:46 PM EDT
Dang it!

Primer pull back caused me to break my swager rod.  While looking for options I came across the Fast & Friendly decap rod for the Lee followed by the Fast & Friendly swage rod.  Do both/either work as advertised?
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 12:19:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/30/2018 12:21:12 AM EDT by Ronnie_B]
I have revised my 1050 case prep toolhead since last posting. The general principle is the same- set up dies to preload the toolhead/shellplate to minimize toolhead tilt.

Station 2- RCBS full-length sizing die:

- neck honed for ID of neck to be approx. .220 to minimize work-hardening

- die body adjusted to contact shell plate

Station 3- Dillon swage die:

- die body adjusted to contact shell plate

- die support rod adjusted to NOT contact the case

- swage rod adjusted so press handle springs back about 1 inch from bottom of travel

This works very well- swaging is not affected by case head thickness. Rims of brass are able to take force of swaging- as long as brass is restrained from tilting by the die support rod.
Burrs inside of flash hole are not pressed flat (partially obstructs flash hole) as occurs when the support rod contact the case head.

Station 5- Trim die with cut-down Hornady LNL bushing

- Die neck honed as is FL die neck

- bushing preloads against shellplate

- can adjust die body without affecting preload and consequentially, toolhead tilt

Station 7- Lee Collet die

- final neck-sizing

Station 8 - Lyman M-die

- adjusted to preload against the shellplate

- puts small flare at case mouth

This setup has the toolhead preloaded evenly all around and the results are good.
I am getting very low runout- with LC brass it is probably averaging about .002 and most of that could be due to neck thickness variations
Link Posted: 10/30/2018 12:35:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/30/2018 12:39:04 AM EDT by Ronnie_B]
Melvin_Johnson

I have found that tight primers can deform, cupping around the end of the decap pin which then pulls them back into the primer pocket. I was given some 223 that had been wet-tumbled with the primers still in, and had a lot of problems with that. The tighter a primer is, the more it forms around the end of the decap pin. I polished a new decap pin making sure to round it off at the end, and made sure to bump the press handle near the bottom of the stroke to help pop the primer off the pin.

I want to get or make a hose adapter to replace the spent primer collection bin- but instead of relying on luck, connect the primer hose to the vacuum line on the trim die. Might help eliminate loose primer grit as well.
Link Posted: 11/3/2018 10:48:43 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
Melvin_Johnson

I have found that tight primers can deform, cupping around the end of the decap pin which then pulls them back into the primer pocket. I was given some 223 that had been wet-tumbled with the primers still in, and had a lot of problems with that. The tighter a primer is, the more it forms around the end of the decap pin. I polished a new decap pin making sure to round it off at the end, and made sure to bump the press handle near the bottom of the stroke to help pop the primer off the pin.

I want to get or make a hose adapter to replace the spent primer collection bin- but instead of relying on luck, connect the primer hose to the vacuum line on the trim die. Might help eliminate loose primer grit as well.
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So what about the Fast and Friendly swage rod? Is it a superior product that resists bending or breaking at the eyelet bolt?
Link Posted: 11/6/2018 2:51:07 AM EDT
I have both  the large and small FF&B  swage rods, very nice pieces. Much beefier and better material, IMHO.
Link Posted: 6/15/2019 8:41:56 PM EDT
Figured I would revive this thread for something I just picked up...

https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=229

“CNC Shooter Toolhead”

It allows you to use all 7 stations... just wish the extra station was after the powder. The extra station is nice but the die ring overhangs the head a bit in the station over the primer. Not a problem unless you have one of those Mark7Reloading bullet sensor mirror (which I had to remove).

The other problem I found is the case feed cam is so wide it bent my case feed stop latch.

All in all, still a nice toolhead. About to run 4K 30-06 rounds so I will give it a try.
Link Posted: 6/15/2019 8:52:30 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I have both  the large and small FF&B  swage rods, very nice pieces. Much beefier and better material, IMHO.
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How are the swage rods holding up?
Link Posted: 6/16/2019 1:31:09 AM EDT
Link Posted: 6/17/2019 6:00:37 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Melvin_Johnson:

How are the swage rods holding up?
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They have been holding up quite well, some of my friends have used the 1050 to process a metric crap ton of brass lately. Have not used them lately, but would still highly recommend them.

Dryflash, I am still around, check the HTF almost daily. The last few years have been really challenging, some medical issues, other  unnecessary BS in life. We just keep trying to move on one day at a time. Hopefully this fall we may be able to finally close out some BS and get back to living and actually enjoying life.
Link Posted: 6/18/2019 12:04:38 AM EDT
Link Posted: 6/18/2019 1:45:10 AM EDT
I was just re-reading the thread since it hasn't seen many posts lately - @ChevelleDave good to hear from you, hope things start getting better for you going forward!
Link Posted: 10/15/2019 11:30:25 AM EDT
Not necessarily upgrades, but helpful hints based on some use as my 223 machine:

- Get the self-centering FW Arms decapping die and swage backup die.  No more dented/nicked case mouths!
- Do the polishing of the powder measure
- Put rubber bands (from asparagus or other produce) on the powder measure to help return it
- Undo the ratchet
- Bend the powder measure safety catch out of the way - powder measure operates much more smoothly and doesn't leak powder nearly as much

I still need to find the source of leaking powder, but believe it's from spillage.

It makes great ammo - the two 10 shot groups (combined 20 shot group) at the last highpower match at 300yds was clean 200 with 11x - 5.6" group, fired prone with a sling.  That'll do just fine.
Link Posted: 10/17/2019 3:47:18 PM EDT
I installed a DAA case stabilizer / spill preventer I bought at the Ben Stoeger Pro shop. There are others like it on the market. Making one would also be simple I suppose but it wasn't very expensive.

This

I had developed an issue with certain powders getting thrown during shellplate movement and was unable to get it just right. This fixed the issue up and let's me run with a fairly snappy shellplate movement.

I only do small primer on my 1050 and I was having issues mainly with heavier loads on 40 and 357.
Link Posted: 10/17/2019 9:57:48 PM EDT
Just got one from DAA during their last holiday sale. Haven’t had a chance yet. Wondered if it would help with my 30-06 decap and sizing issues too since sometimes case tilts and gets dented.
Link Posted: 10/17/2019 10:25:26 PM EDT
Fast & Friendly swag rod and backer are far superior to the Dillon.

For primer pull back I have found the FW Arms decapper and the Mighty Armory decapper with spring assist to do away with it about 99%.

FW Arms on longer cases such as .30-06 and .270 and the Mighty Armory for everything smaller is how I use them.
Link Posted: 10/18/2019 1:59:07 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/18/2019 10:25:24 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Ridgeline:
Fast & Friendly swag rod and backer are far superior to the Dillon.

For primer pull back I have found the FW Arms decapper and the Mighty Armory decapper with spring assist to do away with it about 99%.

FW Arms on longer cases such as .30-06 and .270 and the Mighty Armory for everything smaller is how I use them.
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FYI... I picked up the FW decapper as well. It is fantastic but are you sure it works with 30-06? It specifically says not on 1050. I have only tried on Revolution and it doesn’t work so great there. I may try 1050 next.

My 30-06 cases wobble like a drunk. I really wish it wasn’t so bad. I am going to try hat DAA toy posted above at the decap station and see if it helps.
Link Posted: 10/18/2019 10:37:23 PM EDT
I must have missed that part in the instructions.

I have only used it on .30-06 and .270 on my 1050 with the Mk7 autodrive.

Probably just shy of about 12K rounds on it in the last 2 months.

I use it specifically because of the case wobble.

Mighty Armory had their own swage rod backer out now as well but I'm trying to not have too many brands of parts on the machines so if anything needs replaced or adjusted it's easier.
Link Posted: 1/17/2020 1:42:36 PM EDT
Saw this posted on another forum. I am not saying I would buy it (not sure I would). But some may find it interested. $2200...

To be honest, I wanted to just revive my favorite thread..

Link Posted: 1/17/2020 3:49:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/17/2020 3:52:47 PM EDT by cat-mechanic]
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Saw this posted on another forum. I am not saying I would buy it (not sure I would). But some may find it interested. $2200...

To be honest, I wanted to just revive my favorite thread..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1L0pocsifY
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As he was running it, I saw 2 upside down primers, I believe. Then the focus went blurry on the feed ramp.

I don't think I need that. Still an interesting concept though.

I would however, like to try the Double Alpha Primer Collater for $200.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-primer-pro-collator
Link Posted: 1/17/2020 5:20:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By cat-mechanic:

As he was running it, I saw 2 upside down primers, I believe. Then the focus went blurry on the feed ramp.

I don't think I need that. Still an interesting concept though.

I would however, like to try the Double Alpha Primer Collater for $200.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-primer-pro-collator
View Quote
Saw that. I am sure flipped primers can be fixed but not the risk of chain reaction kaboom.
Link Posted: 2/8/2020 9:33:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/8/2020 11:47:32 PM EDT by Henny]
WARNING: Anything I’m posting below is dangerous. It’s only for informational purposes. Doing anything replicating this could put life, limb, and your equipment in danger.

I’ve been a happy S1050 owner for years. I really love loading on the machine. That being said....In my opinion, it has one problem that, when it rears it’s ugly head, it eventually turns into a mess. That problem is the priming system.

Countless times I hear that sound of a primer hitting the bench, or look in my finished cartridge bin and see powder in it or I see a nice trail of powder going from the powder drop station to the final station.

It’s very frustrating. Usually the fix is to take the priming system off, brush or vacuum all the powder off the shell plate / base, and wipe everything down with a patch and q tip with alcohol and reassemble.

It seems like it never fails that the primer tube is either full, or nearly full. All 1050 owners know happens when you remove the priming assembly with primers in the tube. Primers everywhere! They go in every crevasse of the machine, on the bench and on the floor. There’s no way to empty or stop the primer system that is practical.

I came up with a simple fix for my machine.

I bought a few of these from Fastenal ( they’re local for me).

Attachment Attached File


They are 8-32x5/16 nylon tipped screws.

I then drilled and tapped this hole in my primer system. I drilled the next size larger hole in the primer feed tube.

Attachment Attached File


Now when I have a priming problem I barely hand tighten the nylon tipped screw, remove the priming system and do the cleaning routine.

When I take the system off, it only drops 7 primers. That’s a lot better than 70!

If I’d do it over again, I’d drill the hole lower on that surface. Maybe I could have got it down to 5 or 6 primers.

Use for your own information fellow 1050 owners!



Links where to get the screws:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-tip-set-screws

https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/set-screws/socket-set-screws/600049?categoryId=600049&level=3&query=Nylon%2Btip&productFamilyId=25816

I have no affiliation with either McMaster Carr or Fastenal. I just went with a Fastenal because a distributor is just up the road from me.

You’re on your own for a tap and drill bit. I figure as handloaders you probably have basic tools.
Link Posted: 2/8/2020 11:31:02 PM EDT
Nice add Henny!
Link Posted: 8/12/2020 7:54:26 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By bm3:
The mad scientist friend of mine made me a funnel so I won't spill and it works great.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/197656/8C80BB0D-B087-418F-A6A6-DDE29163E5DF-605574.jpg
View Quote

I like that, nicer than my cut off 2-liter bottle top, which works well but is pretty ghetto.
Link Posted: 8/12/2020 7:59:52 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By djryan13:
Figured I would revive this thread for something I just picked up...

https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=229

"CNC Shooter Toolhead"

It allows you to use all 7 stations... just wish the extra station was after the powder. The extra station is nice but the die ring overhangs the head a bit in the station over the primer. Not a problem unless you have one of those Mark7Reloading bullet sensor mirror (which I had to remove).

The other problem I found is the case feed cam is so wide it bent my case feed stop latch.

All in all, still a nice toolhead. About to run 4K 30-06 rounds so I will give it a try.
View Quote

I was looking at CNC toolheads since I need one more toolhead now, not too many out there anymore it seems.  The "7th Station" interested me, but looking at the 1050 I couldn't figure out how a die would clear the lever arm bracket on the primer tube.  Also since it seems they negate the ability to use most casefeed stop setups since the cam is wider.
Link Posted: 8/22/2020 10:27:00 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/16/2020 12:40:57 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:


Starlight came in today, seems well made.  Well, I mean it's a wafer with some LED's and a circuit board, nothing fancy about it :).  But, once installed you never see it, so seems as it should be.  Short version, so far I like it.  Haven't loaded with it yet, but will likely tonight or tomorrow as I have to load up some 9mm major loads.

Pro's
  • TONS of light.  Way more than the Inline Fab, which while not a bad option, spotlights the left side only generally, and for some reason is not very bright to my eyes.  Also brighter than my clamp on LED gooseneck mentioned earlier.  That light is pretty bright but again left side only, and clutters up the left side with the camera and MBF, etc.  (Note I also removed the allen wrench bracket, etc shown in the pics below - that thing seemed to always be in the way :(. )  Now I have pretty good lighting general lighting that covers the right side, but the Starlight pretty much gives you 360 bright LED light.
  • Easy to install.  Just slides over the guide rods, and is in fact pretty snug - the clips don't really appear necessary, but they probably include them in case of any tolerance stacking or for stability.
  • Low Profile - once you install it, it's up and out of the way.  Doesn't interfere with die rings, etc.  Only the cord which runs out the back.

Cons
  • Well, it's costly, compared to other lights (but again,much brighter).  You could move one from toolhead to toolhead, but the seller offers the led wafer separately or in 2 or 3 packs, with the price dropping slightly the more you buy - $40 for one, $33 each if you buy 3, I believe it is.  I'm going to do some more testing, but if it works as well as I think it will, I will just likely pick up a 3 pack of the led wafers, as you would use the same power cord with all.
  • A minor complaint - the power cord is the typical cord with a pigtail with the switch, which disconnects from the main cord.  The switch is on a very short section that comes off the back of the unit, so that the switch invariably winds up behind everything...unlike say the Inline Fab and MBF power cord/switches which move the switch further away, allowing some flexibility in how you organize your wiring, etc.
Anyway, so far I am pretty happy with it...unless it dies in a week or anything like that, I suspect I will be ordering more.

http://i.imgur.com/X5wonEo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/itnnLLg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kI5T6kQ.jpg


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Just a followup on the Starlight - it's been 3 years, and I notice on two of my four an LED or two has gone out.  I contacted Phil at Reloading Innovations - they do have a warranty for 2 years.  I'm past that but he said to send them in, it might be a simple repair he could do ie just replacing the bad diodes.  So I sent them off today - if he can repair them that will be great, but if not I will likely pick up another 3-pack - the system is that much better than anything else on the market imo.
Link Posted: Today 2:09:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Today 2:11:25 PM EDT by Redarts]
Would anyone be kind enough to measure their priming station retainer tab for me? Length of the long and short side will be sufficient. Popped a primer on some range pickup 9mm that probably had the spent primer shoved back in the case and it tore mine in half, and I can't find the "front" (angled) part to measure it. I'm just going to 3d print a replacement as it is definitely not a high stress part (unless you blow it up like I did, in which case it becomes a very high stress part... for a fraction of a second).

Its this part. In all honesty I guess it really doesn't matter if it mirrors factory dimensions as long as fits. I'll make the stl available if anyone else is as dumb as me.

Link Posted: Today 6:41:11 PM EDT
I have 3 of the CNC shooter tool heads.

All of them are out to be welded as the pin that aliegns the primer slide keeps backing out.

No reason it should do that and I consider them to be secondary tool heads for when priming isn't in play.

No reason I should need to weld that pin in place.

I have never had that problem on any other tool head.

I prefer the Bobcat Armorment tool head, but they are not in production at this time.
Link Posted: Today 10:37:06 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:

Just a followup on the Starlight - it's been 3 years, and I notice on two of my four an LED or two has gone out.  I contacted Phil at Reloading Innovations - they do have a warranty for 2 years.  I'm past that but he said to send them in, it might be a simple repair he could do ie just replacing the bad diodes.  So I sent them off today - if he can repair them that will be great, but if not I will likely pick up another 3-pack - the system is that much better than anything else on the market imo.
View Quote

You actually got a response?  I have a bad one and they won't even reply to emails asking if it can be fixed.
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S1050 up grades (Page 9 of 9)
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