Quote History Gonna need a cheek-riser for that rig, IMHO. ITC makes one. You can jigger it around quite a bit, since it is configurable in placement on the stock--and removeable.
https://www.dsarms.com/p-15680-itc-cheekrest-customizable-padded-rest-for-fixed-style-stocks.aspx Question: What is the distance between the scope and the rifle--the part of the rifle nearest to the scope?
FWIW, when I mount a scope on this type of rifle, I believe that a gap of 1/16" between the widest part of the scope and the part of the rifle nearest to contacting the scope is the desirable minimum. More than that dimension causes me, personally, to either use different height rings, or perhaps re-think the scope--and its' max dimensions that prevent the scope from getting lower. Much cheaper to buy lower rings, but
sometimes it becomes necessary to re-think the too-wide optics.
The point to all my previous blather is to get the optic system working in
harmony with the stock (perhaps with added cheek riser) in order to obtain a quick, natural, no-fiddlin' cheek-to-stock-weld. EVERY TIME.
Try this: Mount your rifle with eyes closed, and assume a shooting position. Then open your eyes; looking straight ahead, through the scope. If you cannot
instantly see straight through your scope, with ZERO messing-around, then something is very wrong, and you need to correct it. If you need to wiggle your head/eye in the
slightest, there is room for improvement.
Practically speaking, meaning in hunting or in combat, the "snap-shot" is by definition something quickly done, and there is no time for messing around with an imperfect cheek weld/sight picture. Such a cheek-weld/sight picture has to be done quickly, naturally, and with no fiddlin' around.
It is essential to get it right without thinking about it.
I have been singing this song for decades, and few have listened. Please don't make their mistake. And please don't think I'm picking on you.