I finally got my backordered ATM stock in and it's pretty badass. I contacted Ruger before I ordered to see if they planned to offer a blued version and they said possibly sometime in the future but no definite plans so I went ahead and ordered the only model they offer currently which is the stainless. I have a blued Mini-14 ranch rifle and I am wondering if there's an option to refinish the metal on the stock match. Has anyone cerekoted or done another finish option to your ATM stock? How'd it turn out? Was it super expensive?

This is how I would like mine to look:

$279.00

holy galloping gremlins and Jumpin’ Jehoshaphats!


if I don't sell my Mini next month, i'ma gonna buy it..

dammit i HATE Arfcom sometimes

Any good cerakoter should be able to do that.  

Or you could nitride/melonite it.  That may be better since it wouldn't add any thickness to the metal components.

OP, the pic you posted does look good, but I've not thought much about mine not matching.

Attached File

You make a good point. I should just use it as is. I do need to do some minor fitting for it to work though. I can't get the trigger group in the stock. There's not a deep enough inlet for it to seat fully.

Please take a close look at your stock, and make certain that you know exactly what the problem might be, and exactly how to fix it.  Make certain that the hammer is fully back (cocked) before removing/installing the trigger guard.

The rear of the trigger guard (the part that latches into the trigger guard housing when closed) should require some force to close, and should exhibit some resistance to movement about 1/2" from fully closed position  Common for users to smack it with the palm of the hand to fully close.  Removing wood in wrong area, or removing too much wood, can have adverse impact on accuracy.

Make sure to apply a dab of grease on the "hooks" of the trigger guard assy.  These hooks engage trunnions/slots on the receiver.  Dab of grease on both of them, too.  This will reduce wear and tear at this critical juncture, and assist in opening/closing the trigger guard.

How about Black-T? I assume you can find out the price with refinish metal on the stock only. I think their price is very reasonable.
https://black-t.com/our-price-list/

Most Ruger wooden stocks were sprayed with a thin finish/dye.

Simple to chemically strip such, and dye the wood to user satisfaction.   Unfortunately, getting the desired color and finish requires some experience, and some practice.

FWIW, I've repaired/epoxied 1903 Springfield stocks for a friend  (RIP, Sarge!), and sold them, on his behalf, as repaired stocks, at gun shows.  Most folks could not see the multiple repairs, until repairs were specifically pointed-out.  All the stocks were stripped of original finish, as a prerequisite for repair.  The repaired stocks sold out in minutes.  Just sayin' to establish credentials.

Getting the desired color for your wooden stock will require stripping original finish, re-staining, and re-finishing. Some of this depends on the base wood.  Most Ruger wood is decent hard wood, but not highly-figured walnut.  Ruger generally says nothing about their wooden stocks.

Many folks like GI walnut stocks for their M1s and M1As.  Some folks do not know that later, GI-Issue Birch stocks are denser wood, and far less likely to splitting than walnut.

Even the lighter birch wood can be stained to most any color desired, as long as it is thoroughly stripped and well-prepped.

BTDT.

wrong thread.

I have a Mini 14 that's nearly 40 years old that's had maybe 100 rounds through it.  Unfortunately it is blued and not stainless so the folding stock will look wonky I think.  But the one pictured above looks okay.  I'll have to think about ordering one in stainless or continue to wait on a blued version.

Cerakote adds so little to the thickness it is a non issue. It goes on with .001"-.001.5" thickness. I've done bolts, triggers and sears with no issues.
Graphite Black or Midnight Black Cerakote would be close to a blue finish
I would do both your Mini and stock tubes in Sniper Grey. It has a nice Pakerized look to it, and your blued Mini would never rust and be more scratch resistant as well.
Here is my wood stocked Mini with Sniper Grey Cerakote:

The one on the right is Titanium Cerakote, a bit lighter than Sniper Grey and a bit of metal flake to it.

Medium, "Battleship Gray" color, as found with some types of Parkerizing, is pretty useful color. This shade has a way of "picking-up" greenish-tinged light, as from forest canopies, and the human eye does not seem to "notice" it as much some other colors.

German "Feldgrau" (Field Gray) uniforms were pretty effective.  Typically were grey/green, and pretty effective, especially once dirty/dusty.

Be careful of finishes that require high heat.  I believe they use a retaining type of Loctite (maybe 609 green) for press fit applications instead of welding like the originals.  Heating it up may affect the adhesive integrity.  You can see the green inside the stock tube in the video.
Stock end installation

Can you expand on your comments? Not sure I fully understand your post.

I am saying if you refinish the stock stainless parts with a thermally cured finish that exceeds 500 degrees F for the bake process then the Loctite may not hold very well.  Nitriding will definitely affect it as temperatures are over 900 degrees F.  This assumes that the adhesive they use is in fact Loctite 609.  Loctite 609 is a low viscosity, rapid-curing anaerobic adhesive that augments the strength of press fit assemblies. Adds up to 3,000 psi holding power.  If it is some other adhesive, then the temperature may vary.  You wouldn't want your butt plate to spin around.

The original Mini-14 made by Ruger had plug welds through the tube to secure the end pieces.  Not sure if this makes sense or not.