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Posted: 5/17/2020 5:51:00 PM EDT
Its completely my fault for not cleaning it sooner, but here I am- muzzle-side end cap is stuck. Very stuck. I soaked it for several hours in a cup of Parts Blaster, tried heating up the tube, and the only thing I have to show for it is a marred end cap.
 Just soak it longer? Soak it in something besides PB? Build a little alter of empty cases and ammo boxes and make a sacrifice? |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 6:08:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Strap wrench?
Torch to warm tube and dip cap in cold water? |
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Posted: 5/17/2020 6:18:50 PM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 5/17/2020 6:36:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Kroil maybe
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Posted: 5/17/2020 7:14:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guy1074: Read my post from a few days ago: Suppressor Soak I bet that it'd screw right off after that... 2 parts mineral spirits/ 1 part ATF....I'll give that a try tomorrow and report back! Thanks! 
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Posted: 5/17/2020 8:17:08 PM EDT
[#5]
On my rimfire can with unshielded k-baffles at the end of a shooting session I like to take the caps off while it is warm and knock the stack loose. Then lightly put it together with an obvious gap. Usually that reminds me to take it down at home and get the loose stuff off before tightening back up. The front cap is usually on the cleaner end so just breaking it loose and retightening probably would have helped.
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Posted: 5/18/2020 2:17:55 AM EDT
[#6]
What can are we talking about?
Heat cycles with the torch, some strap wrench and the 50-50 ATF - mineral spirits usually, eventually works. |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 11:11:27 AM EDT
[#7]
STOP.
What model can are we talking about here? |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 11:38:07 AM EDT
[#8]
What model? If this is an Element 2, stop!
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Posted: 5/18/2020 11:43:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HansohnBrothers: What model? If this is an Element 2, stop! Just out of curiousity, why? What's different about an Element 2 over any other .22 can? |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 11:51:49 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just out of curiousity, why? What's different about an Element 2 over any other .22 can? |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 11:59:11 AM EDT
[#11]
nope- its a Thompson Isis 22...
I sent him a message to see if they have a tool to fit the knurling on the cap for the future... |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 12:07:11 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HansohnBrothers: The Element 2 rear is permanently attached, not designed to be removed. True, But it''s just red loctite. 
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Posted: 5/18/2020 12:26:55 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: nope- its a Thompson Isis 22... I sent him a message to see if they have a tool to fit the knurling on the cap for the future... EDIT. I see you're trying to take of the front cap, not the rear. My bad.  Cleaning the ISIS22 Suppressor Thompson Machine |
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Posted: 5/18/2020 2:03:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HansohnBrothers: The rear doesn't come off the ISIS 22. EDIT. I see you're trying to take of the front cap, not the rear. My bad.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbxQsoROTwYAh, nope- you're right, its the muzzle end....well that shows you how long it’s been since I took it apart- I forgot the muzzle-end end cap was part of the mono core! -And maybe why just standing it up in PB didn't work...the whole mono core is probably seized up. I've got it soaking in the MS/ATF mixture. I'm going to leave it in there for a full 24 hours to give it time to work. |
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Posted: 5/19/2020 4:27:49 PM EDT
[#15]
UPDATE:
Ok, so using what I had on hand, which was 'low odor' mineral spirits and Valvoline synthetic ATF, after a 24 hour soak = zero improvement. I held onto the can as tight as I could, and gave the front cap some pretty good wacks with a rubber mallet- nothing. I covered a piece of scrap 2x4 with a shop towel and then came down pretty good onto the front cap, hoping to force the core out...nothing. I don't wan to try any more force or mechanical options yet. So I got brave and ventured to my friendly neighborhood Walmart. Ugh. The place looked like a yard sale- shelves empty and long lines. Oh, well, I need supplies. No mineral spirits. Crap. Ok, next best thing? Seafoam. I grabbed a quart of their SuperTech ATF for high mileage cars, I figured it has more detergent. The can is now soaking in that mixture. I'll give it another 24 hours in there, and maybe after a few hours I'll give it a couple smacks for good measure... |
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Posted: 5/19/2020 7:12:38 PM EDT
[#16]
Perhaps try some heat to expand the tube. There is basically a lot of surface area of a mixture of lead and carbon forming fillets where the edges of the monocore meets the tube. If penetrating solvent won’t break it loose, then heat and impact are your next weapons. You just have to make sure you have a good grip and fitment so nothing slips and damages the metal.
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Posted: 5/19/2020 8:00:33 PM EDT
[#17]
You need a Vox Blox and a vise.
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Posted: 5/20/2020 9:34:25 AM EDT
[#18]
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Posted: 5/20/2020 2:07:26 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryJust ordered one! |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 3:21:46 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just ordered one! And shipped! Thank you for your business! |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 3:31:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HansohnBrothers: And shipped! Thank you for your business! you guys rock! |
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Posted: 5/22/2020 1:53:33 PM EDT
[#22]
EDIT:
Brake Parts Cleaner for the win!! ...the 'friendly' kind, even. But, I believe a couple threads on the endcap deformed during the procedure... I don't have any tap/die sets that large to chase the threads with, so I guess I'm going to have to send it back to TM for some TLC... 
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Posted: 5/22/2020 3:10:11 PM EDT
[#23]
A thread file might clean it up. Either a square one with different thread pitches or any 60-degree triangle file. Thread files are safer if you are impatient and energetic.
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Posted: 5/22/2020 4:28:49 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You need a Vox Blox and a vise. I can attest the the Vox Blox work, and have 3 different sizes to assist in cap removals. I also use one of these to push out unshielded K baffles. Works like a charm. https://www.silencercentral.com/products/baffle-removal-tool/ |
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Posted: 5/22/2020 7:02:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A thread file might clean it up. Either a square one with different thread pitches or any 60-degree triangle file. Thread files are safer if you are impatient and energetic. I'm looking at these now- might be an option since it's only 'sticking' a little short of being all the way tight... UPDATE:  A little patient, tedious work with a triangle file and a thread file and I got it completely fixed!! Now to find my anti-seize.... |
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