Resizing brass - Page 1

Armory » 50 Cal

Posted: 5/24/2021 10:07:35 PM EDT

Got a set of Lee dies in and started resizing same once fired LC 10 brass and man that stuff was hard to size, I had to run it into the die twice and do the 90* trick before it would chamber and then it was still a little snug. Is it because of the generous M2 chamber it was probably fired in? The PMC Bronze I fired sized a lot easier. Man this big 50 stuff is fun.

Steve............

Posted: 5/25/2021 12:59:38 AM EDT

[#1]

Yeah, stuff that's been fired through an M2 is a bitch to size. You never know how the headspace was setup by the gunner and if they rechecked it after firing a few hundred rounds.

It can be bad enough that the brass is stretched beyond useful in one firing. I would only buy M2 fired brass if it was a last resort type of thing. That and if it wasn't super cheap, I would pass on buying it. You'll get better brass by buying new ammo, saving the fired brass and then load it up when you have enough.

Posted: 5/25/2021 9:19:30 AM EDT

[#2]

I think that is what I'm going to do. Does the 50 bmg PMC brass have a good reputation?

Steve.........

Posted: 5/25/2021 11:22:45 AM EDT

[#3]

As mentioned, once fired military brass is "hit or miss" I bought some LC15 military brass last summer and had no problems at all sizing it in my Lee press. I got some 80's Italian surplus brass and had a bit more difficulty with it. But, nothing I couldn't deal with after a bit of press adjustment and reinforcement. All depends on the chamber it was shot in.

Also OP, what sizing lube are you using? I would suggest Imperial Sizing Wax if you aren't using it already. People swear by it and I started using it from the get-go when I got into .50 BMG. Also comes in handy for resizing all those surplus pulled .50 BMG projectiles!

Posted: 5/25/2021 12:40:34 PM EDT

[#4]

Early PMC brass is really good, the early 00's stuff is a little soft, not sure on the newer stuff, would have to ask a friend that remanufactures 50 ammo what he's seen.

Some brass to avoid would be early Israeli brass with the Hebrew headstamp that looks like a U and K. Just toss it in the trash, same as any Dominican Republic brass, if you get any in a lot.

There's other stuff out there also, some 80's and 90's LC brass, remember that if it's to good of a deal, walk away. Also check the return policy if buying from a company, buying from a private party can screw you.

Posted: 5/25/2021 12:58:50 PM EDT

[#5]

50_Shooter

Thanks for the info. I had read that on here about the Hebrew and Dominican brass, I have 25 pieces of the LC 10 brass but think I'll stick with Commercial bras from new ammo.

Dtechguy

I have been using Imperial for about the last 20 years or so, it helps a lot with the LC brass. I have some pulled bullets coming so I will try it on them.

Steve........

Posted: 5/25/2021 1:01:45 PM EDT

[#6]

Make sure you check for incipient case head separation on any unknown brass you size. Throw it out if suspect. I use a piece of coat hanger, sharpened and bent into the shape of an "L" with a short leg. It's quick and easy to check and will save you a lot of headache.

Also, +1 on the Imperial lube. The only way to go on the 50 or when forming brass.

AVOID Case head separation - SAFE RELOADING - check your brass

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSSAuzL8oLs

Posted: 5/25/2021 4:31:53 PM EDT

[#7]

Short round,
Good video, thanks for posting that, I was going to touch on brass stretching but forgot to post it. As he said in the video, use a piece from a metal wire hanger, grind one end to a point and then bend it 90°. Drag it up and down the inside of the case about 3/4" from the bottom, if you feel it or see it dip down while doing this, brass is going to split.

As he said in the video, the price of a piece of brass isn't worth a trip to the hospital or having to buy another rifle. Once you get used to checking the brass, you can look into the brass and see the dip in the side where it's stretching.

Posted: 5/25/2021 5:00:59 PM EDT

[#8]

I get much easier sizing by knocking the primer out first. I use a hammer and punch to remove the primer. Amazing how much force is needed. Also I get more consistent sizing by removing the primer before sizing.

Posted: 5/25/2021 7:28:44 PM EDT

[#9]

In the OP's other thread, I posted a pic of my reloading tools. One of them is a primer punch for 50 BMG primers. Using it you can punch out the primers first as it does make it easier to size the brass! Staked primers are harder than the ring type crimp and you'll need to remove the crimps before you re-prime the brass.

The guy that used to make the tool passed away years ago but his son still makes them and the neck fixing tool. I'll have to look them up, can't remember the name of the place.

ETA: The name of the place is Hamilton and Son's Firearms www.hamiltonfirearms.com they're located in Cottonwood AZ.

Here's the tool.

Neck tool.

Posted: 5/26/2021 1:37:26 AM EDT

[#10]

Stay away from LC 12. It is thick and stuff as a board. Bent two press handles trying to resize cases. Now the bunch of them sits in a tub. Most of what I load is LC and I have yet to find a streached case and I wire check each one twice in the process.

Posted: 5/26/2021 9:56:06 AM EDT

[#11]

No LC12 here just LC10 and some PMC Bronze commercial. I did find one of the LC10's that had a small split about half way up the neck. It's in the scrap bin with a squished neck now.

Steve.........

Posted: 5/28/2021 6:04:43 AM EDT

[#12]

After incurring the same problem, I contacted Lee directly, and they advised me to re-size those cases in stages, since max leverage occurs near the bottom of the stroke. So you back the die out, size about half the case, then screw the die down all the way and finish it off.

Posted: 5/28/2021 1:30:13 PM EDT

[#13]

What do most of you do: crimp or no crimp for the bullet? In my single shot rifles (308, 30-06, 7-08 etc.) I don't crimp but this is my first big 50 (AR50A1).

Steve........

Posted: 5/28/2021 2:42:14 PM EDT

[#14]

You don't really need to unless you're loading for an M2 or a semi, like the M82 or Serbu. If you have a repeater, I would check the rounds in the mag after shooting a couple, if nothing has moved you should be fine.

Posted: 5/28/2021 7:16:18 PM EDT

[#15]

Yepper, that follows along with what I've been doing with the other stuff all these years. Thanks.

Steve...........

Posted: 5/28/2021 10:58:39 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
You don't really need to unless you're loading for an M2 or a semi, like the M82 or Serbu or M2. If you have a repeater, I would check the rounds in the mag after shooting a couple, if nothing has moved you should be fine.

View Quote

FIFY

Posted: 5/29/2021 1:27:37 AM EDT

[#17]

LOL, I already had the M2 there, it can be fired F/A or semi, so I didn't feel the need to list it twice.

Posted: 6/2/2021 8:25:20 PM EDT

[#18]

I also picked up an LE Wilson trimmer for the primer crimp. That thing works great.

Steve........

Posted: 6/4/2021 6:33:17 PM EDT

[#19]

Is 220 gr of WC860 a good starting place for the 647 gr ball?

Steve.........

Posted: 6/4/2021 7:58:02 PM EDT

[#20]

Is this surplus powder? If so, you might want to start out lower and see if you can chrony your loads. If not, then check for pressure signs like flattened primers, hard to lift bolt.

220grs. isn't that hot but if the powder burns hot it could make the round hotter than normal. Try making up a few rounds at varying loads starting at 205grs, working up to 225grs. If you see any pressure signs as you're working up the scale, stop as you've found the MAX load for that powder.

Posted: 6/4/2021 9:12:51 PM EDT

[#21]

It came from Pat in a white one gallon jug that said it was repackaged from bulk powder.

Steve........

Posted: 6/4/2021 9:49:56 PM EDT

[#22]

We'll just go with surplus as it's pulldown either way, just don't know if it's virgin or not.

Like I said, start low and work up looking for pressure signs. If you see any then stop, that way you don't run into any issues.