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Posted: 2/12/2022 8:27:48 PM EDT
Wondering what people recommend besides sandblasting. I have an HK USP Compact Tactical 45 someone turned into an abomination with shit digital camo. I can scrape it off in some areas, but not all. It may not even be cerakote, Im honestly not sure if you can tell when its a shit job. It is definitely not just rattle can. Ill see if I can get a picture loaded up. Just looking for ideas to remove as much as possible without messing with the frame or original coating on the slide too much. I was using some picks to get at it in alot of areas and was working ok. But not getting the thicker parts up, feel like Im gonna dig into the slide if I try too much harder. I got a great deal on it, it is an HK USPCT45 after all, still shoots great.
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Posted: 2/12/2022 8:36:02 PM EDT
[#1]
I need to renew my membership, I dont have any hosting acct anymore.
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Posted: 2/12/2022 8:37:00 PM EDT
[#2]
See if acetone will wipe it away. If not it is cerakote and media blasting is it. You can hand sand and recoat if a must.
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Posted: 2/12/2022 9:20:47 PM EDT
[#3]
I thought my PVC cleaner was pure acetone, there were two touch spots that were some regular paint that wiped away with that. Nothing else did.
Is there a way to not blast away the original HK coating in the process? So far, it seems my harbor freight picks are hard enough to chip away at the cerakote but not the original coating. Just taking forever. |
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Posted: 2/12/2022 9:56:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Citristrip? I know it works on spray paint, have not tried it on cerakote.
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Posted: 2/12/2022 10:42:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Cerakote is very thin coating so if its super thick its probably something acetone or stripper will soften.( Can’t promise The finish underneath wont get damaged though )
Furthermore I would just blast it and Cerakote it properly. More than likely whoever painted it destroyed the original finish, most the time they sand blast but I have seen some people use other abrasives. I’ve never heard of anybody throwing a paint job on something without at least scuffing the surface. Did they paint the inside? Rails? How about all of the firing pin channels etc.? One other place to look is the part of the slide where the bbl locking lug engages. |
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Posted: 2/13/2022 12:44:49 AM EDT
[#6]
Cerakote requires a specific surface "profile" for adhesion that requires sandblasting with a specific grit, at a specific pressure range. If you still have original finish under your coating, it's either not Cerakote, or the surfaces were prepared incorrectly.
Try Citristrip and see if that cuts through the paint. You'll want to completely disassemble the slide for stripping. |
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Posted: 2/13/2022 11:40:05 AM EDT
[#7]
Definitely still original coating underneath, and from wgat ive got off so far, i dont think they scuffed the slide at all. Definitely did the frame. im assuming they didn't clean it properly. Its not thin by any means, kinda seems layered. I was thinking hydrodip at first, but it doesn't have that feeling or texture hydrodip has.
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Posted: 2/14/2022 9:22:27 PM EDT
[#8]
A local gun shop had a Browning shotgun in for refinishing. It originally had a custom camo paint job on it, then a different owner literally buried it in what loos like a spray and bake. Aircraft stripper showed all that paint who's in charge around here. The bluing underneath looked salvageable the last time I saw it.
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Posted: 2/24/2022 3:13:38 AM EDT
[#9]
I used aircraft stripper in an attempt to remove gunkote. Didn't work so great.
Had to blast it off with 120gr AlOxide media. It was fast and didn't soften the edges of the electrochemical etching I'd done previously. Probably would save yourself some time if you just blast it off. |
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Posted: 2/24/2022 9:18:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Citri-Strip's worked for me, inadvertently.
Takes awhile, but it'll get it off. |
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Posted: 2/25/2022 11:53:31 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used aircraft stripper in an attempt to remove gunkote. Didn't work so great. Had to blast it off with 120gr AlOxide media. It was fast and didn't soften the edges of the electrochemical etching I'd done previously. Probably would save yourself some time if you just blast it off. Aircraft Stripper isn't what it used to be. Like everything else, the best performing chemicals were taken out, and the stuff that didn't cause cancer in laboratory cockroaches was doubled. I've seen Citristrip work "okay", but it seemed to help when the guy stripping the parts left them in a sort of clean old bread wrapper for a couple of days to soak in. |
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Posted: 5/20/2022 7:27:16 AM EDT
[#12]
Cerakote is designed to be chemically resistant; it's one of the marketing points.
The only real way to remove it is media (sand) blasting. |
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Posted: 6/6/2022 9:23:26 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cerakote is designed to be chemically resistant; it's one of the marketing points. The only real way to remove it is media (sand) blasting. What he said. Depending on who did the original Cerakote, there may be some of the factory finish left but I'd guess not much. You're basically left with either doing a re-spray of Cerakote (in a normal color) or something like NP3, NiBoron, etc. I'd personally re-spray it with something like Cerakote E-series. |
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Posted: 6/6/2022 9:57:30 PM EDT
[#14]
Aircraft stripper takes the factory paint off 10/22 receivers. Not sure what Ruger uses, but it’s resistant to every other chemical I’ve thrown at it.
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Posted: 6/7/2022 9:32:12 PM EDT
[#15]
Cerakote is not paint. There are important differences between paint and heat-cured coatings.Now if it was done in Ceracoat "C" Series, put it in a holster and it'll come right off.
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