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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:55:17 PM EDT
[#1]
Chances are if a FS was blind pinned on, it was due to the barrel being less than 16" and the pinned on FS was to make the barrel title 1 legal instead.
Hence the way you check a barrel is to put a rod down the barrel against a lock home bolt, and the distance from the bolt face to the end of the barrel (permantly installed muzzle device counts as part of the barrel since it can not be easily removed), and the distance has to be 16" to the end of the barrel (either crown, or to the end of the permanently added Muzzle device instead). As for permanently installing a muzzle device to a barrel, blind pinning is the preferred method, over silver soldering the device on instead. When silver soldering, the solder can nor flow as less then 1200* to be BATF legal, and that a lot of heat to subject the barrel to get a muzzle device silver solder on in the first place. So a Warcomp should have the needed lenght to make the barrel legal again for a muzzle device swap, but it too will need to be blind pinned on to become a permanently installed muzzle device . Check with Adco. https://adcofirearms.com/ |
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Posted: 2/4/2018 11:40:42 AM EDT
[#2]
ADCO.
Check |
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Posted: 2/10/2018 10:47:33 AM EDT
[#3]
I've done them for myself. Set it up in the mill, use an end mill to take the old pin down to thread level and spin the old device off.
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Posted: 2/10/2018 11:04:50 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done them for myself. Set it up in the mill, use an end mill to take the old pin down to thread level and spin the old device off. OP, if you want to have somebody to do it, I've heard good things about ADCO. |
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Posted: 2/10/2018 11:13:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Reasonable, but how many people here have mills at home? OP, if you want to have somebody to do it, I've heard good things about ADCO. |
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Posted: 2/28/2018 1:38:18 PM EDT
[#6]
This may go against the grain but if it is a simple pin weld, you only need grind off the weld and tap the side of the brake and the pin falls out. As long as you don't go off hell bent on grinding to the threads and just remove enough to expose the pin. I have done several, the only trick part is not seeing the pin. I no longer care whatsoever about ruining the muzzle device. If someone cares about the device I would not do it.
and of course.... ADCO is a safe bet lol |
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Posted: 2/28/2018 6:21:41 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done them for myself. Set it up in the mill, use an end mill to take the old pin down to thread level and spin the old device off. |
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Posted: 2/28/2018 8:44:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which works really well....unless the pin is hardened steel (as it should be). Then you have to use a carbide end mill. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've done them for myself. Set it up in the mill, use an end mill to take the old pin down to thread level and spin the old device off. |
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Posted: 3/5/2018 5:21:18 PM EDT
[#9]
If you are doing an older Bushmaster barrel, they are a bitch because they are double pinned and the pins don't just drop out, I just did one last night and I nicked the end of the barrel when using a dremel to split the MD, so now I have to square and recrown the barrel.
I have now done two of the Bushys and both of them have been their own breed of animal. |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 11:02:49 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which works really well....unless the pin is hardened steel (as it should be). Then you have to use a carbide end mill. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've done them for myself. Set it up in the mill, use an end mill to take the old pin down to thread level and spin the old device off. |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 4:18:20 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Who isn't using carbide? |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 6:24:52 PM EDT
[#12]
I removed one using a cutting wheel on a dremel tool to grind down the weld and remove the pin. I think it also had some red Loctite on it, so I used a little heat till I saw it flow and it spun right off.
But ADCO would be my first choice if I was going to have anyone else do it. |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 7:11:59 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't always use carbide, many of my end mills are HSS and work good for a wide variety of jobs. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Who isn't using carbide? |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 9:00:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why? Good carbide is superior in every way and up to 1/4" the cost difference is negligible. Here ya go, there are many other websites out there that talk about the differences and what they excel or don't at: Bright Hub Engineering. But to each his own..If you are using something that works for your application, I have no problem at all with that. |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 9:56:36 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No it is not, carbide will blow apart depending on what you are doing, I have strait end mills up to an inch and a half and facing mill up to 3 inches, my partner and I have used all kinds of mills over the last 12 years and certain mill do certain jobs better. Him and I do a lot more than just gun parts, so we use the tool that fits the job. When I do a pin and welded barrel, I use an 1/8 in HSS end mill and it works fine. Here ya go, there are many other websites out there that talk about the differences and what they excel or don't at: Bright Hub Engineering. But to each his own..If you are using something that works for your application, I have no problem at all with that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Why? Good carbide is superior in every way and up to 1/4" the cost difference is negligible. Here ya go, there are many other websites out there that talk about the differences and what they excel or don't at: Bright Hub Engineering. But to each his own..If you are using something that works for your application, I have no problem at all with that. 
To each his own, as you said. |
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Posted: 4/1/2018 10:44:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Do it yourself. Easy Peazy. I did one recently with a Milwaukee drill and a quality bit. Took quite a few tries to get it started. Can most likely reuse the removed brake as well.
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