TL/DR:  You have been warned..

So a year or so ago, I bought a Remington 700 Bolt gun in .223, has a somewhat short threaded barrel and a kinda of marbled molded stock. Non-removeable mag, holds 4 or 5 rounds. Seems to shoot well when it shoots.

I have added a SureFire Socom brake to host my 556-RC can,  Larue Scope mount and Burris XTR Scope.

I bought it, shot it a few times and put it away a long time ago and never really used it. Has maybe a 100 rounds at most trough it, probably closer to 40-60...

Today, I remembered why. My step son was over and we were going to shoot bolt guns at some steel hanging outback.  
We got his sighted in pretty quick and I figured I'd show him what a .223 bolt gun with a can sounded like. So, out it came.

I did not even get a single round though it.  Well, not successfully.

I fired or attempted too, 10 rounds of Remington, 4 rounds of Becks, 3 rounds of Tula, 3 rounds of something from PSA, 2-3 three reloads, and a few other rounds.  Not a single rounds discharged.  Everyone had what I call a light primer ding, pretty much dead center of the primer. Some a bit deeper than others, but all failed to fire.

I removed the bolt cleaned it, kind of inspected it blew it out with the air tool on the compressor.
Put it back in, cycled it a few times, Dry fired it once or twice to make sure it clicked and sounded like it was firing, then tried again...  Dimples, but no boom.

WTF???  Seems like I remember certain folks having a few light primer strikes, but this is 100% unacceptable.
Not one fired round out of all those listed above...

Seems like I ordered it off the net somewhere and had it transferred to my local guy, that and since its been well over a year, I figure any kinda warranty work is out.

I don't mind fixing it myself, if I know what parts to order and it doesn't cost hundreds of dollars..

Any tips?

Take the bolt apart. It's not hard to do and inspect everything for rub spots. It might have a broken firing pin

Personally, I would order a new firing pin spring and install it. You'll need a tool to do this but it's not expensive.

I saw the spring from Wolf Spring https://www.midwayusa.com/product/3415174645 on Midway I think it was for like 12.00 and it seemed to have a bunch of positive comments, so I was already leaning towards doing that.

Any idea which tool is needed? Looks like there are a few.
Will this one work? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007101112?pid=492351

Not sure if it will work for you, but my 1988 model Remington 700 didn't fire.  The range guy had a tool that took the bolt all the way apart and I had crud inside the bolt.  We sprayed out the inside of the bolt and put it back together.  I works great now.

That is probably the tool that EliCustom and I were talking about above...

I'm going to do a bit more research on this tool tonight when I get home and have more time.  Bound to be a few youtube vids on it.

looked a bit more into this on lunch...

It seems that there is more than one tool needed.  Brownells/Sinclair sells a kit with all the tools needed for like $139.99,
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/tool-storage/tool-boxes/remington-700-bolt-maintenance-tool-kit-prod38753.aspxbut my luck, its outta stock, no eta on when it'll be back in.
After a good long wait, they are predicting middle to end of October before they are back in stock.

Could not find all the tools needed in stock, Brownells says back ordered at least till November.

So, I called my LGS told them what it was doing and asked if they had the tools, if they'd fix it and how much.
They told me 30 bucks to take it apart, clean it and see whats wrong, then maybe 10-15 bucks for parts if needed (that's about what the spring costs on Browells).
So I dropped it off last Sat and told them to give me a call.
Yesterday the gunsmith called and said he took it apart and it was massively dirty (sounds like what moreammoplz said above) but he did not see any Spring or Firing pin damage and asked if I wanted to come pick it up and try it out before they replaced any parts.

I said, how about I bring up the rifle and we test it there? vs all the back in fourth..
He said that would work out great.

So now my thought is, IF nothing is bad and this thing really is just gummed up, I've only put a few boxes of ammo through this thing  and I was having this on the 1st few rounds and I don't think I've ever made it though a box without seeing this.

All ammo has been factory new ammo, decent brands, no reloads and many of them were light primer strikes, or so it appears.

Hopefully, Saturday, I can get back up there and test it or Drop off the Rifle for them..

Unless something has changed it doesn't take a magic tool.  Read the manual or find instructions on line.  It's not difficult.  Start by decocking the bolt out of the gun and see if the firing pin protrudes.  There's probably just a chip, bit of grit, or gummy grease in the firing pin channel.  This is a 15 minute job w/o any special tools.

ETA:  Here's a video:

Thanks for the input and video.
I just got that from another video I watched showing some other tools, then I found them on Brownells, so it kinda lined up...

I will definitely save this and use it in the future...  It looks like good tips.

If you are comfortable with manipulating your bolt, measure the pin protrusion prior to disassembly or cleaning. (Sounds like the shop already went past that point.)

There are two basic ways that the failure can occur, one is not enough energy in the strike, the other is not enough displacement (protrusion).

The pin protrusion is easy to check with common tools.

A large amount of gunk (polymerized lubricant) and/or debris can cause both types of failures. Those can slow the strike, or build up in the wrong place.

When the debris interferes with the pin, and as is preventing the protrusion, then you can get a "light strike".

A broken, worn, or damaged part can also cause this. Further disassembly and inspection can reveal more causes.

The failures due to low energy are a little harder to "see" in some examples, but most are going to show as bent, worn, galled, broken or damaged parts, polymerized lubrication, corrosion, etc.

A weak spring can be in the form of multiple causes, but sometimes you will find it yielded and the free length is the clue.

Spring stiffness and preload measurements take a little more fuss, and it is usually easier to just load a new spring and test.

When it goes back together, do not over or under lubricate. Use only the better synthetic lubricants or they will not perform in very hot or cold weather.

I do not recommend running a bolt dry to prevent galling and corrosion, and I also recommend you maintain the firing ping/bolt at least once a year or more often with weather or dirty exposure.

I have had to fix countless bolt/firing pins on hunting trips when someone suffered a "click-no-bang", or even worse a delayed ignition. Often I hear them say they "have never had the bolt apart" or didn't know how to maintain it so they just left it alone. Usually they have been horribly contaminated and over lubricated with the wrong lube. Some were from no lubrication that allowed corrosion and or galling.

Your bolt and trigger assembly should be checked at least every year or more often if you get into weather or dusty conditions.

Good luck!