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Posted: 6/5/2019 4:59:13 PM EDT
Can the factory comp be removed?

Is the threading suitable for a suppressor?

Who works on them? Replacing barrels, cracked receivers, finish issues.

Are Barrels plentiful?

The keystone arms mag button release work better than the standard leaf mag release? link

What are the most common issues with the gun? As far as parts breaking.
Link Posted: 6/5/2019 5:38:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Can the factory comp be removed?

Generally yes, the comp can be removed.  However, there is a dimple on the underside of the comp to prevent it from unscrewing.  The dimple needs to be drilled/milled out or you can damage the threads if you try and just wrench it off.

Is the threading suitable for a suppressor?

I guess it depends upon your definition of "suitable".

Does the Reising have threads that are going to be precision concentric to the bore, using a commonly available thread pitch, and meet a modern suppressor manufactures spec for thread class....the answer is no.

The threads are short, in a wonky 7/8x24 thread pattern, and were made 50+ years ago to hold onto a compensator.

Can a can be stuck on the end of a Reising barrel with enough effort....yes.    There was an article in SAR within the past year-ish regarding a Reising with a Sico Octane installed.  (it was odd as the Octane in the supporting article pictures was a 9mm Octane)


Who works on them? Replacing barrels, cracked receivers, finish issues.

I beleive Bob Naess of Black River Militaria and John Andrewski will work on them.  I have no idea to what extent (i.e. welding) they will or wont do.

Are Barrels plentiful?

No

The keystone arms mag button release work better than the standard leaf mag release? link

I am not sure on this one, I have never used of seen the keystone product in person.


What are the most common issues with the gun? As far as parts breaking.

Firing pins cracking and compensators losing some of the fins are the most common failures.   After those two parts it appears to be the action bar cracking is the next most common failure.


Answers inline in Red above.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 6/5/2019 9:25:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Can the factory comp be removed?

Generally yes, the comp can be removed.  However, there is a dimple on the underside of the comp to prevent it from unscrewing.  The dimple needs to be drilled/milled out or you can damage the threads if you try and just wrench it off.

Is the threading suitable for a suppressor?

I guess it depends upon your definition of "suitable".

Does the Reising have threads that are going to be precision concentric to the bore, using a commonly available thread pitch, and meet a modern suppressor manufactures spec for thread class....the answer is no.

The threads are short, in a wonky 7/8x24 thread pattern, and were made 50+ years ago to hold onto a compensator.

Can a can be stuck on the end of a Reising barrel with enough effort....yes.    There was an article in SAR within the past year-ish regarding a Reising with a Sico Octane installed.  (it was odd as the Octane in the supporting article pictures was a 9mm Octane)


Who works on them? Replacing barrels, cracked receivers, finish issues.

I beleive Bob Naess of Black River Militaria and John Andrewski will work on them.  I have no idea to what extent (i.e. welding) they will or wont do.

Are Barrels plentiful?

No

The keystone arms mag button release work better than the standard leaf mag release? link

I am not sure on this one, I have never used of seen the keystone product in person.


What are the most common issues with the gun? As far as parts breaking.

Firing pins cracking and compensators losing some of the fins are the most common failures.   After those two parts it appears to be the action bar cracking is the next most common failure.


Answers inline in Red above.

Hope this helps.
View Quote
Thanks your  awesome.

Also wouldn’t all Reisings fall under C&R at this point.

If a individual in one state owned a M50 and was bought by a C&R holder in another state it would transfer on a F4 from them to the buyer the C&R holder correct. No SOTs etc.
Link Posted: 6/5/2019 9:49:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Thanks your  awesome.

Also wouldn’t all Reisings fall under C&R at this point.

If a individual in one state owned a M50 and was bought by a C&R holder in another state it would transfer on a F4 from them to the buyer the C&R holder correct. No SOTs etc.
View Quote
Generally, yes I am pretty sure most of them are C&R at this point.

However, there may be some oddball ones that were built up by Numrich from leftover parts later in life that might not qualify as Numrich got M50 receivers in the 80s from the H&R bankruptcy auction and built them up with a mix of original and new parts.

If I was planning to do a F4 direct to my C&R license I would probably just double-check that the gun in question is eligible for a direct C&R transfer.
Link Posted: 6/6/2019 9:13:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

However, there may be some oddball ones that were built up by Numrich from leftover parts later in life that might not qualify as Numrich got M50 receivers in the 80s from the H&R bankruptcy auction and built them up with a mix of original and new parts.

If I was planning to do a F4 direct to my C&R license I would probably just double-check that the gun in question is eligible for a direct C&R transfer.
View Quote
To follow up on this, I believe the Nurmich guns have an “S-XXXX” serial number.
Link Posted: 6/10/2019 11:13:41 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Is the threading suitable for a suppressor?
View Quote

As-is, I would say no. The issue isn’t the thread pitch. Rather, it is a lack of an adequate shoulder at the rear of the threads. The shoulder is really only as tall as the thickness of the comp, which is made of a very thin tubing.

With that said, the muzzle appears thick enough, and the threads shallow enough that it should be possible to turn the existing threads off with a lathe and have enough meat remaining to turn an appropriate thread pitch, such as 5/8-24 or .578-28.

If I were to have this done, I would then have a new comp made to screw onto these new threads. It could be made to the same external dimensions as the original, but it would then be thicker. Use a small set screw on the bottom of the comp where the factory dimple is located.

You then have an original appearing comp that is capable of being removed for suppressor use when desired.
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