I've been around here long enough to know that y'all are going to ask me to provide more info and I just don't know yet, so work with me here….

I have a Bergara b14HMR in 6.5CM(Creedmoor, not centimeters). The thing is the most accurate rifle I own. I don't have benchrest set ups or any other chassis-type guns. My goal with this gun and the ammo I put together is to squeeze as much long-range accuracy out of it as possible. I do not foresee myself entering any matches

This gun shoots 147gr Hornady Precision extremely well.

I want to start reloading for this rifle. I have a Rockchucker press. I have Hornady Bullet Comparator and Headspace gauge kit.

I have not bought a set of 6.5cm dies, yet. Knowing the above information, what die set would you recommend?

Thanks for the help!

I Like Whidden and Redding.

I use FL non bushing sizers and micrometer seaters.

Forster sizing dies have produced the least runout for me.  I full-length resize all cases.

I use their micrometer seating die due to how easy it is to adjust OAL.

+1 - another vote for Hornady - specifically their "Match Grade" dies.  Their sizing die is a full length die with neck bushings and the seater is a micrometer seater with 2 seating stems - 1 "standard" and 1 "Custom ELD Match bullet seating stem" for VLD style bullets.

Page 106, 2018 Hornady Catalog >>>



PS: Another 6.5 CM die thread in the Precision Rifles sub-forum.

I have Redding Match dies with bushings.  The bushings are nice to change neck tension or adjusting for thicker brass like LC.

The Forster dies would have been the other best route.    They make as good as it gets stuff.

I use the Forster CoAx for my tiny group ammo.   It too has a good runout reduction reputation.  The dies floats and the case holder floats.

Biggest Reason not to buy Hornady dies!  
Their seater is NOT friendly to VLD bullets other than the ones Hornady makes special stems to seat their ELD and A-Max bullets for use with their micro-just stem.  And, they very by bullet within the same caliber

If you have an arbor press, then hands down Wilson seater and they have a VLD seat drift to aid in seating VLD bullets

The Redding Competition Seater (VLD stems available)  and Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater are nice dies similar in function.  The Forster does not seem to need a special stem to seat VLD bullets.

You can use bushings to control neck tension (smartest idea is the Redding FL Type S) or the Forster Precision Bump Die.  Another thought is sending Forster your Forster FL dies and having them custom honed to suit your application.

From a cost standpoint the better value would be the Forster Ultra Micrometer Seater and Bushing Bump Die Kit. (three custom hone dies would be in excess of $160 bucks so going with bump die kit is better avenue

Redding Type S Match FL Die Set (Competition Seater and Type S FL Sizer) plus VLD Stem and individual bushings.  Or look at Type S Match NK Die Set  (Competition Seater, Body Die and Type S NK Sizer)

I have not had much luck with Forster .300 WM and 6.5 CM seating dies.  The seating stems have in order: split, mushroomed, and the latest one was short.  "Must have been the tag end" was the explanation.

Forster customer service is the worst I have experienced in an industry known for outstanding customer service.

Another vote for Hornady.

I’ve used all the brands without noting a precision difference. However, the micrometer seaters are super nice.

Sometimes I think researching reloading dies is like going down a rabbit hole, you can spend the next month getting different opinions and still be confused.  Sometimes it's just better to buy a set and see what happens, if you don't get what you need, sell it and start over.

I've had good luck with Foster and Redding, but am still learning.

I'd get an RCBS small base die and remove the expander plug, a Sinclair neck expander die and carbide mandrel, then use an LE Wilson straight line seater with a Sinclair micrometer stem and an arbor press to seat bullets.

I use a bit of everything on my precision stuff...I use a RCBS universal de primer die, I use a Redding competition shoulder die and a Redding competion neck bushing die, I also use a Sinclair neck expander die and finally seat with a forester micrometer seater die....It has taken some time to settle on this but it is working for my long range rifle....does take some time, but I enjoy reloading so it is all good....I also anneal twice per loading, trim case lengths every time and check every measurement on every case......glutton for punishment I am......

Attached File

Get a Redding set and have whomever chambered the barrel use the
same reamer to cut the sliding sleeves in the Redding dies.

It takes a little research to make sure you get one with enough
'meat' to be altered but it is not all that difficult.

Now you have a target quality die that exactly matches your chamber.

Let's pray the press we put it in is straight.

I do most of my "good" reloading with mixed brand equipment.  I.E. RCBS universal decapper+Lee neck size die (with decapping pin removed) + Forster bench rest seating die.

There can be a bit of diminishing returns on reloading equipment and processes.  If it makes you happy to drop hundreds of dollars on dies, go ahead, but there's no real single answer as to the best possible set.

Perhaps a bit of a bell curve on your investment.

NOT based on MY experience!  I am using the Hornady Match dies I posted above to load for my precision 308 bolt guns.  I have not had any problems seating ANY bullet from the long nosed 180 grain Berger Elite Hunter (hybrid ogive) to the blunt nosed 220 grain Hornady Interlock...  also including the 150 grain SMK, the 168 grain Berger Classic Hunter, the 180 grain Hornady Interlock, and the 200 grain Speer Hot-Cor...  NO PROBLEMS WITH ANY OF THESE!...  Just sayin'...  

For the most part it does not actually matter.
The case head is not held rigidly and the dies bullets cases are vert much 'self centering' if there is play.

I remove the spring clip holding case holder from the press ram and use just an o-ring to lightly hold the case holder on the ram.

If it wants to move let it move.

The Redding sleeves are a VERY tight fit in their die body.
Enough to trap air.