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Posted: 12/14/2019 12:18:29 PM EDT
I'm a bit old school (revolvers and lever guns mostly) and I would like to pick up a decent muzzleloading rifle (even older school). I'd use it mostly for target but might try deer during the muzzleloading season. I have only one ML gun at the moment - a pistol I built from a kit some 30 years ago (pic below).

In my research I found the Lyman Great Plains rifle. Thoughts? Pros/cons for my above intended uses?

Since it will also hang on the wall of my man cave, like the pistol, I'd like one with a traditional look to it. The Lyman seems fine but the Hawken replicas have a bit more bling. Are they as good, or better, than the Lyman? Obviously no intent to put a scope on it.

A flintlock would be cool, but probably stick with percussion for the simplicity.

What say you?

Link Posted: 12/14/2019 2:46:41 PM EDT
[#1]
I have always been a Hawken fan, can't go wrong. Ask Jeremiah Johnson.
Link Posted: 12/14/2019 5:05:53 PM EDT
[#2]
I think I'd prefer a kit. Any suggestion on one with quality parts and wood? I see the Traditions stuff all over but don't know anything about them. Pedersoli kits seems less common but based on price probably nicer.
Link Posted: 12/15/2019 4:38:02 AM EDT
[#3]
It really boils down to what appeals to you the most. The Lyman GPR is a good gun. I have one in .54.



The Lyman Trade Rifle is also a good gun. And the Deerstalker.

The T/C Hawken is nice, if you like that style. Here's mine:



I also have a liking for more plain 'working' guns as they're sometimes called. This is one of my .54 T/C Renegades.



If you like military guns, you could go for something more Civil War-ish.





With Traditions guns, you're probably best sticking with percussion. Their flintlocks can be problematic. The different Hawken models they make are all decent. This is a .50 Traditions Tennessee rifle.



And my son shooting it.



Pedersoli makes a large variety of guns. This my Pennsylvania long rifle.



If you want to go real old school, look into matchlocks. It's not something you would really use for deer (although some hunters do), but they're fun as heck to shoot. This is my 16th century Spanish arquebus.







These are a few examples of what you can go with. There are others, as well as guns no longer being made that you can find on the used market. One good place to search is thegunworks.com

Decide what type of muzzleloader interests you the most and then you can narrow down your choices.
Link Posted: 12/15/2019 11:44:39 AM EDT
[#4]
Nice collection there.

I think part of my issue is I'm not sure what I like. I'm thinking more about function, weight, quality of parts, etc. Although, I think I like the Hawken or Sharps short stock type (i.e. not wood all the way to the muzzle). Didn't really want to spend a grand or more though so maybe the Lyman is a good place to start.

One question I have is with a traditional ML (i.e. not inline) can you use different types of bullets like the Barnes all copper or maxiball or are you pretty much stuck using round balls?

Also, I was watching Hickok45's review of the Lyman GP and he wasn't using the ramrod from the rifle. Are those rods not overly reliable or is it just easier to use a different style at the bench?
Link Posted: 12/15/2019 9:22:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Bullet type depends on the twist rate. Slower is generally for a patched ball, faster for conicals. But there is some overlap. You'll find a lot of guns made today with a 1:48 twist. Generally good for a ball, and can also be good for conicals, depending on the bullet.

My Lyman Great Plains Rifle has a 1:60 twist. Pretty slow, meant only for patched balls. They also make the Great Plains Hunter. Looks the same, but has a faster 1:32 twist with shallower grooves intended for conicals.

With a 1:48 twist, you can shoot patched balls well and will probably get good results with a full bore size conical, like this one (it has some lube on it):

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Then there are conicals of more modern design that are smaller than bore size and you use a plastic sabot, like these:

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File


They're mostly intended for inlines, or traditional guns with a fast twist, like the Lyman GPH I mentioned above. They can also be used in traditional guns with a 1:48 twist, but accuracy will depend on bullet design and weight. You have to experiment.

From your comments, it sounds like you would be happiest with a Hawken type half-stock rifle. T/C no longer makes theirs, so you'd have to shop the used market if you want one. Pedersoli makes a couple of versions that are historically correct and very nice, but they're pricey. A good place to start is with Traditions. They make the Hawken Woodsman. Good rifles with a reputation for being good shooters, and not too expensive.

Attachment Attached File


https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00139r24008/half0-caliber-hawken-woodsman-percussion-28inch-blued-barrel-hardwood-stock

There's also the Lyman Trade Rifle. Another one with a good reputation:

Attachment Attached File


https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/000156032125/trade-rifle-50-caliber-percussion-complete-gun

These guns are good shooters with a patched ball and full bore size conicals (but you'll have to experiment with different bullet weights to determine what shoots best in your rifle), and maybe with some modern bullet/sabot projectiles (I don't want to try to elaborate on that because I'm a traditionalist, I don't shoot those modern projectiles; so I'll let someone with more experience elaborate on that).

A steel range rod is a common sight at the range. It's easy to work with, you can use a brass muzzle protector with it, it's very strong, easier to pull a bullet with if that's ever necessary, and it saves wear and tear on the gun's wood rod. I usually use one at the range. You can do that and save the gun's wood rod for the field, or not. It's up to you.
Link Posted: 12/16/2019 11:16:30 AM EDT
[#6]
The Lyman is a good rifle... Also look for an Investarms makes the Lyman black powder rifles.. They will be a little cheaper than Lyman brand...
Link Posted: 12/16/2019 12:27:59 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 12/16/2019 7:33:53 PM EDT
[#8]
I think I'm leaning towards the Lyman plains rifle. Probably get a kit.

Couple more questions:

This seems to have a 1:60 twist. Are other twists an option? Any reason to worry about the slow twist?

For a rifle like this, should I stick to real BP or are any of the substitutes better for any reason?

Anything to be aware of before doing a project like this? Like dos, don'ts or hard lessons learned?
Link Posted: 12/26/2019 3:25:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I think I'm leaning towards the Lyman plains rifle. Probably get a kit.

Couple more questions:

This seems to have a 1:60 twist. Are other twists an option? Any reason to worry about the slow twist?

For a rifle like this, should I stick to real BP or are any of the substitutes better for any reason?

Anything to be aware of before doing a project like this? Like dos, don'ts or hard lessons learned?
View Quote
The Lyman GPR is a great rifle. It’s likely the most popular rifle in 4H Muzzleloading competitions, and there’s good reason!  They are accurate and reliable!!!
The kids I coach have proven that real black is a better option than the substitutes, especially if you shoot a lot like they do.
The slower 1:60 twist is best with a patched round ball. These kids shoot the light out, offhand at 50 yds with the PRB!
And, in my opinion, the GPR is about the best Hawken replica in a production gun out there for that price point.
Link Posted: 12/27/2019 1:58:20 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the feedback. As for twist, I guess the 1:60 would be more traditional and more simple since your only bullet choice would be a round ball.

I'd still like to build one but maybe my first one should be a finished rifle. Anything to watch for when selecting one such as rough bore, alignment, etc?
Link Posted: 12/31/2019 12:44:34 PM EDT
[#11]
If you’re looking at used, first make sure it’s not loaded!  Then drop a bore light down the barrel to check for rust. A little surface rust is ok, but heavy pitting is tough to get rid of.
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