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Posted: 7/6/2018 1:20:42 PM EDT
Hopefully this is the appropriate place to ask this question but...

I have Magpul FDE Furniture on my PSA Build. I have a Key Mod hand guard I would like to make it an FDE (earthy tan) color as well. What would you guys suggest for the best quality rattle can paint (I know that's a stretch) and the color to match FDE for this hand guard as well as all the extra things I should do to make a clean and as durable as possible finish. I am well aware of cerakote and duracoat, but have no desire to spend the money to have it professionally done or get the tools to do it myself. Id also rather not buy the $50 duracote cans either. I want to keep this sub $20. I can't justify spending a lot of money on color of a rifle. I am also aware of the brownells aluma hyde II but I have seen a lot of negative things about them from clogged spouts to takings weeks on weeks to cure. Plus its like $30 to buy and ship a can.

Thanks guys,

D-Rock.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 1:10:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Krylon MAXX is pretty durable.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 1:36:06 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Krylon MAXX is pretty durable.
View Quote
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 1:36:14 PM EDT
[#3]
There are spray paints made for plastic, including the Krylon camo line. Their tan color I don't think is far off from magpul FDE.

I've used their Black and OD colors, and also white in their fusion-for-plastics line and all seem to hold up pretty good.

ETA
http://www.krylon.com/products/camouflage-paint-made-with-fusion-for-plastic-technology/
They have both a Khaki (darker) and Sand (lighter), my guess would be the Sand color as Magpul's FDE is pretty light.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 1:43:56 PM EDT
[#4]
I suppose I should mention that this is an aluminum hand-guard, not plastic. All the other parts (Stock, Grip, Trigger Guard) are Mag Pul in FDE.

Thanks Guys,

D-Rock.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 1:52:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Brownells Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote or Magpul FDE.

Follow the directions and clear the nozzle after use and it'll work fine next time you need the can.

Aluminum parts can be cured in an oven - bake at 225* for 3 hours.

Whatever you use: degrease, degrease, degrease.

They're running a deal for free shipping over $49.  If you can't find $50 worth of stuff you need from Brownells, you're crazy.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 3:16:25 PM EDT
[#6]
So you can bake the Aluma Hyde II on at 225 degrees for 3 hours and it comes out completely cured?
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 3:17:18 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Brownells Aluma-Hyde II in Coyote or Magpul FDE.

Follow the directions and clear the nozzle after use and it'll work fine next time you need the can.

Aluminum parts can be cured in an oven - bake at 225* for 3 hours.

Whatever you use: degrease, degrease, degrease.

They're running a deal for free shipping over $49.  If you can't find $50 worth of stuff you need from Brownells, you're crazy.
View Quote
So you can bake the Aluma Hyde II on at 225 degrees for 3 hours and it comes out completely cured?
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 3:54:37 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So you can bake the Aluma Hyde II on at 225 degrees for 3 hours and it comes out completely cured?
View Quote
Yes.  I've done it on lowers, uppers, even a barreled AK action.

AH2 is pretty easy to work with.  Degrease the part thoroughly - I like to use brake cleaner for this.  I then heat the part using a heat gun or hair dryer.  I follow that with *THIN* coats of paint.  Thin enough to almost be dust coats.  AH2 will run if you apply it heavy, it'll look like crap, and it's not easy to remove.  Thin coats, with a shot from heat gun in between coats.  It might take 4-6 passes to get uniform coverage.  Invert the can and spray until clear so clean the nozzle.  I use stainless steel wire to hang the part in the oven from the broiler coil.

This is common sense, but I'll say it just in case:
1) Don't put wood, plastic, or other items that may melt or catch fire into an oven, regardless of temp.

2) Don't do this when your wife is home.  The oven curing will cause some odor, IMO akin to the smell of a box of crayons.  It was gone from my house by the next morning.  But your wife will hate it, swear you're going to kill her, the dog, the kids, and the neighborhood, and insist on eating out for at least 5 days.  Turn the range hood vent on.

3) Let the part cool before handling it.
Link Posted: 7/6/2018 6:07:44 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Yes.  I've done it on lowers, uppers, even a barreled AK action.

AH2 is pretty easy to work with.  Degrease the part thoroughly - I like to use brake cleaner for this.  I then heat the part using a heat gun or hair dryer.  I follow that with *THIN* coats of paint.  Thin enough to almost be dust coats.  AH2 will run if you apply it heavy, it'll look like crap, and it's not easy to remove.  Thin coats, with a shot from heat gun in between coats.  It might take 4-6 passes to get uniform coverage.  Invert the can and spray until clear so clean the nozzle.  I use stainless steel wire to hang the part in the oven from the broiler coil.
View Quote
Okay, I took your advice, got free shipping by purchasing two BX25 mags for my Ruger 10/22's bring the total to $52, no tax, free shipping.

One last question, how long do you wait in between coats?

Thanks,

D-Rock.
Link Posted: 7/7/2018 1:16:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Okay, I took your advice, got free shipping by purchasing two BX25 mags for my Ruger 10/22's bring the total to $52, no tax, free shipping.

One last question, how long do you wait in between coats?

Thanks,

D-Rock.
View Quote
Not long at all.  The heat gun or hair dryer will "flash cure" the paint making it tacky (don't touch it!).  You're not trying to bake it with the heat gun or melt the part or get it red hot.  You just want to warm it up, as if you were trying to dry a piece of metal that got wet.

A hair dryer on high works fine.  Be careful with a heat gun as they can put out too much heat.

Have fun!
Link Posted: 7/10/2018 1:47:38 PM EDT
[#11]
Aerovoe brand paint in color Coyote.
Painted the upper receiver to match the magpul FDE.
The lower was cerakoted FDE from the factory.
Good match IMO.
Heated the parts to around 180* before spraying.
Did light coats.
Heated with heatgun between coats until the finish was what I wanted.
Baked in the oven @ 250*ish for a couple hours.



Did this handguard using the same paint and procedure.

Link Posted: 7/10/2018 2:13:39 PM EDT
[#12]
Y’all are overly complicating this.  Type of metal is irrelevant for rattle can.

Cheapest way is to just run it in your dishwasher and leave it be to dry.  
If you want, just put it in the toaster oven at whatever is your lowest temperature.  I think mine is 120, and it’ll dry.  
Hit it with some rattle can paint and call it a day.  
Now understand, it’s inexpensive hardware store level spray paint.  Depending on use (abuse), you’ll have to do it again eventually.

Recently I rattle canned a severely nicked and abused upper receiver.   I put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with some generic degreaser.   Like 1/5 strength, or weaker.  
Let it dry overnight.
Hit it with Kylon Camo in black.   Looks great, but not abused yet.  
I did the same for the Magpul parts in OD.   All matchy match in black.
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