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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/10/2021 12:28:23 AM EDT
[#1]
I just purchased a used Amsec CFX582820 safe. The last owner lost the bolt used to disable the glass relocker for shipping. I contacted Amsec customer support but they acted like they had no idea what I was asking about. All I want to know is the size of this bolt so I can purchase one at a hardware store. Amsec just told me that they don't sell to the general public. Does anyone know the specifications of this bolt? Thanks
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/17/2021 12:43:24 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jim357: I just purchased a used Amsec CFX582820 safe. The last owner lost the bolt used to disable the glass relocker for shipping. I contacted Amsec customer support but they acted like they had no idea what I was asking about. All I want to know is the size of this bolt so I can purchase one at a hardware store. Amsec just told me that they don't sell to the general public. Does anyone know the specifications of this bolt? Thanks There is no bolt that I know of? My CFX was delivered with a glass relocker and no bolt was removed |
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Posted: 7/17/2021 2:22:59 PM EDT
[#3]
I just acquired an Amsec commercial safe from a business that was moving from one location to another and didn't want to move the safe. It is about 4' high and about 2' square with a digital keyboard lock. It is a HEAVY sucker. My tractor lifts 1,300lb. hay bales and it would not lift this safe, even with the door removed. The door, which isn't that big, is about 300lbs or so. Inside the safe are lock boxes, each with their own key.
Any idea what model this is? After looking at Amsec's website, this is the safe that looks most like it: https://americansecuritysafes.com/product/am4020e5/ |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2021 12:20:56 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jim357: I just purchased a used Amsec CFX582820 safe. The last owner lost the bolt used to disable the glass relocker for shipping. I contacted Amsec customer support but they acted like they had no idea what I was asking about. All I want to know is the size of this bolt so I can purchase one at a hardware store. Amsec just told me that they don't sell to the general public. Does anyone know the specifications of this bolt? Thanks It's a 1/4-20, around 1 to 1.5 inchs long. The Axiliary Relock is held from releasing when the bolt is tight against the side of the Relock Plunger... |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2021 12:23:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Wobblin-Goblin: I just acquired an Amsec commercial safe from a business that was moving from one location to another and didn't want to move the safe. It is about 4' high and about 2' square with a digital keyboard lock. It is a HEAVY sucker. My tractor lifts 1,300lb. hay bales and it would not lift this safe, even with the door removed. The door, which isn't that big, is about 300lbs or so. Inside the safe are lock boxes, each with their own key. Any idea what model this is? After looking at Amsec's website, this is the safe that looks most like it: https://americansecuritysafes.com/product/am4020e5/ Your safe is not an AM series safe. Those are fairly light safes. You describe a safe that is probably TL15 construction. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2021 6:10:02 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: It's a 1/4-20, around 1 to 1.5 inchs long. The Axiliary Relock is held from releasing when the bolt is tight against the side of the Relock Plunger... Thank you very much. I would not want that thing to accidently fire while moving it! All the best to you in these difficult times. Jim |
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Posted: 7/18/2021 6:19:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Your safe is not an AM series safe. Those are fairly light safes. You describe a safe that is probably TL15 construction. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Originally Posted By Wobblin-Goblin: I just acquired an Amsec commercial safe from a business that was moving from one location to another and didn't want to move the safe. It is about 4' high and about 2' square with a digital keyboard lock. It is a HEAVY sucker. My tractor lifts 1,300lb. hay bales and it would not lift this safe, even with the door removed. The door, which isn't that big, is about 300lbs or so. Inside the safe are lock boxes, each with their own key. Any idea what model this is? After looking at Amsec's website, this is the safe that looks most like it: https://americansecuritysafes.com/product/am4020e5/ Your safe is not an AM series safe. Those are fairly light safes. You describe a safe that is probably TL15 construction. Thank you. I do have the serial number, if that helps. It's outside under cover right now as it weighs too much to bring inside my house, so I have it covered and wrapped in a tarp due to rain. Otherwise, I'd take a photo of it. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2021 1:15:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: It's a 1/4-20, around 1 to 1.5 inchs long. The Axiliary Relock is held from releasing when the bolt is tight against the side of the Relock Plunger... Where does this bolt go? I've looked at my boltwork and never seen a place a bolt would go by the glass relocker? |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 9/17/2021 1:37:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Tony, If you're still out there reach out to me. I was contacted by a guy who may have something you or others you know may be interested in.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 9/18/2021 1:42:06 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By a1abdj: Tony, If you're still out there reach out to me. I was contacted by a guy who may have something you or others you know may be interested in. Yea, I'm still out here in the cold dark world.... 
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Posted: 11/26/2021 3:16:39 PM EDT
[#11]
Hey TheSafeGuy. I have a BF6040 from ~2003/4. It came with a mechanical S&G lock. I'm looking to swap it out for an electronic but was wondering if you have any recommendations. I'm thinking the current lock is a 6400?
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CA, USA
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Posted: 12/2/2021 2:02:20 AM EDT
[#12]
Hi
I have a amsec keypad, I change out the battery and only C works follow by one number (with a beep and light). After that nothing else work beside pressing C again. Any Help would be great. Thanks |
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DEU
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Posted: 12/2/2021 2:02:35 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By estribo714: I have a amsec keypad, I change out the battery and only C works follow by one number (with a beep and light). After that nothing else work beside pressing C again. Any Help would be great. I remember reported problems where the battery was drained in a few days and with a failed memory chip. Yours doesn't sound like this. You might be lucky searching through these 56 pages here finding helpful information. I didn't. I would remove the battery for half an hour or so to let all capacitors discharge and give the lock a fresh start with good batteries. Maybe you will need a safe tech drilling it. You should find one on the savta.org site. In any case if you get open the door with some luck don't close it before the problem is fixed. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2021 2:19:55 AM EDT
[#14]
How to tell the model of an NOS safe? Was there a Teton series? It has a mech lock with a key and a single handle. Claimed to be a 24 gun safe in the right config The pics I have currently suck.
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Posted: 1/4/2022 3:53:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Found this in the Germantown ReStore for $245, if anyone wants it.
 
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USA
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Posted: 1/6/2022 6:00:50 PM EDT
[#16]
What solvent was used for AMSEC paint? I’ve got Parchment on my Amvault and my touch up bottles look on the dry side. Mineral spirits or paint thinner work? Anyone mix up any Rustoleum and do a color match? Looks on the glossy side, and I’d like to roll the door edge and anything else it needs. Suggestion s?
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2022 9:11:49 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JTHulkster: What solvent was used for AMSEC paint? I’ve got Parchment on my Amvault and my touch up bottles look on the dry side. Mineral spirits or paint thinner work? Anyone mix up any Rustoleum and do a color match? Looks on the glossy side, and I’d like to roll the door edge and anything else it needs. Suggestion s? The paint has been water-base for a number of years. Don't recall when the switch away from petroleium base happened, but it had to be in the 90's. Gotta love California. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/8/2022 11:45:32 AM EDT
[#18]
Thanks. Maybe a little confusion on my part, as paint had solvent smell and bottles were labeled flammable.
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2022 3:34:49 PM EDT
[#19]
HOWDY TSG!
I purchased a smaller AMSEC safe with ESL20 lock from a check cashing place that went under. safe was initially open (code unknown) but Just b4 I could pick it up someone (bring your kid to work) shut and locked it. I have an alarm incense here in OK but am trying to go thru a auth dealer to see if they can use the lock serial for a factory code. Problem is that they cannot get someone to answer the phone. Any other avenue I could try to get the code? I would be happy to provide my license if possible. Maybe a more direct email address the dealer could send the request? I know you're retired, and I'm grasping at straws. Still appreciate any insight. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2022 3:05:50 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tyromeo55: HOWDY TSG! I purchased a smaller AMSEC safe with ESL20 lock from a check cashing place that went under. safe was initially open (code unknown) but Just b4 I could pick it up someone (bring your kid to work) shut and locked it. I have an alarm incense here in OK but am trying to go thru a auth dealer to see if they can use the lock serial for a factory code. Problem is that they cannot get someone to answer the phone. Any other avenue I could try to get the code? I would be happy to provide my license if possible. Maybe a more direct email address the dealer could send the request? I know you're retired, and I'm grasping at straws. Still appreciate any insight. I wish I could help, but I can't. All ties are cut, and I have no clout in the organization. I don't have a clue who is even running customer service any more. It's really quite sad. Your best bet is to find a sympathetic authorized dealer or locksmith that can get past the firewall of security that was in place. Good luck.... |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2022 5:32:30 PM EDT
[#21]
TSG
Never the less... Thank you for your reply. The situation over there is sad. I have the understanding that they charge a fee to provide the factory code. Between that and making a customer and dealer happy they should be more than willing to help. My license doesn't appear to mean squat. The local dealer Im using is a bronze level. Next attempt will be thru the only gold dealer I kinda know. after that will be a national dealer I have a little clout with. They would probably be more then happy to bother corporate on an hourly basis If I offer a decent enough prize. If anyone is still reading my rant.. I could drill the safe but where is the fun In that. I'm only in it $100 and love the challenge. Did try all the most common codes as a hail Mary. No Joy |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 3/22/2022 11:28:07 PM EDT
[#22]
Update,
The Gold dealer had a direct line to someone over there and got the code within minutes. It was setup with a time delay active so I had to wait for that but no other hiccups. Looks to be an older TL15 - CE2518 in pretty good shape. Could really stand to be serviced but the lock looks pretty new. $142.50 all in I'm a happy camper. Use it till I can snag a deal on something similar but taller |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/22/2022 2:41:23 AM EDT
[#23]
Tony, I hope all is well in your new phase of life. I've been reading your posts for years and they've made a real difference for me. Probably would have ended up with some (oh god) Liberty nonsense without you.
Quick question- I picked up a used CE2518 built in 2018. The safe looks great... but knocking on the top of the safe, it almost sounds hollow. Like sheet metal with nothing under it. Meanwhile, the door and sides sound solid as a rock. Is this a design feature, or did I get a bad safe? |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 7/23/2022 3:12:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Linuxjon: Tony, I hope all is well in your new phase of life. I've been reading your posts for years and they've made a real difference for me. Probably would have ended up with some (oh god) Liberty nonsense without you. Quick question- I picked up a used CE2518 built in 2018. The safe looks great... but knocking on the top of the safe, it almost sounds hollow. Like sheet metal with nothing under it. Meanwhile, the door and sides sound solid as a rock. Is this a design feature, or did I get a bad safe? All is well here. I landed on my feet, making a huge difference in a new industry completly out of the security inductry. Having a blast designing top of the line kitchen and bath faucets for the uber-rich. Check out www.waterstoneco.com. This stuff is all mega expensive. A typical high-end faucet can sell for $7,000 or more. One of the items in the new Argonaut master-bath line I just finished sells for over $15,000 each. Best part is the job in less than 10 minutes from home. So, I'm content taking another industry into a new direction. Not to worry on that hollow sound... that skin has simply pulled away from the concrete inside. That leaves a small air-gap that then sounds like an empty shell when you tap. It's not empty, there is just a bit of oil-canning on the outer shell. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2022 4:05:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Tony,
Happy to hear things are going well for you. You were a HUGE help when I was researching buying a safe and helped me make a much more informed purchase than I would have. I am about to move and will be taking the safe with me, I'll be utilizing qualified movers as mine is a tad heavy (Amsec TL30x6 - the big one 76" tall and all 4,578 lbs of it). My question is - I am planning on doing something of a custom install after the fact so I was thinking of having the movers leave the safe on some moving rods then I can simply (lol) push it into its final resting place at a later date. Thoughts? If you think that would be OK any suggestion on what rods will work and where I can purchase them? Thanks again for your help. |
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DEU
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Posted: 7/26/2022 5:24:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MartinHewitt]
[#26]
I haven't seen to many safe transports, but they used wooden round stock (about 1 inch diam.) for 2000lbs safes. Wood is good for the safe and the floor. You will also need a long (in the 5+ foot range) pry bar (or maybe two?) to remove the rods and lower the safe to the floor. External hinges can be used to lift the safe with a pry bar if it is sitting flat on the flow with not enough gap to get the pry bar under it. We moved 1000lbs safes that way ourself. Wasn't difficult. One operated the pry bar, the other the rods and beams. I assume you can learn helpful information when you watch them getting your safe down onto the rods. With a safe your weight I would try to get a team of more than two people, e.g. you need to handle two pry bars simultaneously. What I am still not comfortable with is movement on a staircase, but that is not your problem.
PS: A wooden to protect the floor from pry bar usage would be good and something to protect the hinge if you use it. |
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Posted: 7/26/2022 7:29:55 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Manduck: Tony, Happy to hear things are going well for you. You were a HUGE help when I was researching buying a safe and helped me make a much more informed purchase than I would have. I am about to move and will be taking the safe with me, I'll be utilizing qualified movers as mine is a tad heavy (Amsec TL30x6 - the big one 76" tall and all 4,578 lbs of it). My question is - I am planning on doing something of a custom install after the fact so I was thinking of having the movers leave the safe on some moving rods then I can simply (lol) push it into its final resting place at a later date. Thoughts? If you think that would be OK any suggestion on what rods will work and where I can purchase them? Thanks again for your help. What is it costing you to move the safe and how far are they moving it? I have a slightly smaller Amsec that's 3,500 lbs, and might be moving in the next year or so. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2022 8:36:47 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MartinHewitt: I haven't seen to many safe transports, but they used wooden round stock (about 1 inch diam.) for 2000lbs safes. Wood is good for the safe and the floor. You will also need a long (in the 5+ foot range) pry bar (or maybe two?) to remove the rods and lower the safe to the floor. External hinges can be used to lift the safe with a pry bar if it is sitting flat on the flow with not enough gap to get the pry bar under it. We moved 1000lbs safes that way ourself. Wasn't difficult. One operated the pry bar, the other the rods and beams. I assume you can learn helpful information when you watch them getting your safe down onto the rods. With a safe your weight I would try to get a team of more than two people, e.g. you need to handle two pry bars simultaneously. What I am still not comfortable with is movement on a staircase, but that is not your problem. PS: A wooden to protect the floor from pry bar usage would be good and something to protect the hinge if you use it. Thanks for the advise Martin. When my safe was installed two guys using a giant pry bar and dowels moved it into place. I had not considered wood round stock before but that is a great idea. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/26/2022 8:37:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mitsuman47: @Manduck What is it costing you to move the safe and how far are they moving it? I have a slightly smaller Amsec that's 3,500 lbs, and might be moving in the next year or so. I am waiting to hear back from the safe movers, no word as of yet. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/9/2023 1:12:53 PM EDT
[#30]
Happy New Year All....
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Posted: 1/9/2023 2:43:00 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Happy New Year All.... Happy new year sir. |
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Posted: 1/10/2023 2:35:13 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Happy New Year All.... Happy New Year. Could you tell me how far out the door hinges protrude from the front of a BFII6636 and a BFII7240? We're planning on an Amsec but need to know the total width with the hinge included. Thanks in advance. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/10/2023 3:24:42 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pasquale91: Happy New Year. Could you tell me how far out the door hinges protrude from the front of a BFII6636 and a BFII7240? We're planning on an Amsec but need to know the total width with the hinge included. Thanks in advance. I don't have access to drawings to verify anymore. I am sure it is less than 2 inches, I think it was around 1-3/8 inches, but don't count on that being a hair-splitting perfect number. |
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Posted: 1/10/2023 5:24:19 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Happy New Year All.... Happy New Year to you! Glad to see you're still ARFCOMing and I hope your 2023 is a good one! |
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Posted: 1/10/2023 6:51:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: I don't have access to drawings to verify anymore. I am sure it is less than 2 inches, I think it was around 1-3/8 inches, but don't count on that being a hair-splitting perfect number. Thanks for the reply! |
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Posted: 1/15/2023 11:18:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#36]
I’ve read so much of this thread, my mind has just quit.
I’m wondering if a vent to the outside at the top of the safe to vent heat and gasses in the event of a fire would be a good thing. I figured I could plug it with wax which would quickly melt if there were a fire. I’m building a large safe that is up against an outside wall of my house. The first four feet of the outside wall is stone. Maybe one pipe set lower to take in cool air, and one higher to release hot gas? Or would this just fuel a fire inside the safe? |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/16/2023 1:57:41 PM EDT
[#37]
^^^ Don't do that.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 1/16/2023 2:53:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44: I’m wondering if a vent to the outside at the top of the safe to vent heat and gasses in the event of a fire would be a good thing. I figured I could plug it with wax which would quickly melt if there were a fire. I’m building a large safe that is up against an outside wall of my house. The first four feet of the outside wall is stone. Maybe one pipe set lower to take in cool air, and one higher to release hot gas? Or would this just fuel a fire inside the safe? Agree with Frank (a1abdj). You want to keep that steam inside the safe, that's what protects the contents. I vent will deplete the steam barrier prematurely. The thing that is a bit hard to understand, in a "contained" fire there is no up or down, the whole space is super-heated. An opening in the top will allow that super-heated gas to enter the safe. Sorry, but not a good idea. |
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Posted: 1/17/2023 1:18:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Agree with Frank (a1abdj). You want to keep that steam inside the safe, that's what protects the contents. I vent will deplete the steam barrier prematurely. The thing that is a bit hard to understand, in a "contained" fire there is no up or down, the whole space is super-heated. An opening in the top will allow that super-heated gas to enter the safe. Sorry, but not a good idea. This is all new to me. I had a guy that was supposed to build this safe for me that backed out after I waited on him for over a year. Now I’m doing it mostly myself. I’ve been reading as much as I can here to make sure I’m doing the right thing. I was talking about venting to the outside of the structure completely so it would be cooler air. But if the steam is what I need, that wouldn’t help. No vents, got it. Thank you! |
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DEU
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Posted: 1/17/2023 6:51:26 PM EDT
[#40]
Also a room is filling in a fire with hot air from top to bottom.
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Posted: 1/18/2023 1:52:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#41]
So what I’m looking at now, I’ve got the outer walls outside the safe filled pretty tight, using 3/4” plywood and expanded metal in those walls. I used a fire retardant spray to soak into all the wood in the walls. I used fire retardant foam to fill air gaps in the walls too. The safe is being built right up to the inner walls which are dry wall. The safe is 1/4” steel. Don’t have a door yet. Probably putting a 80x30 Amsec on it. Not sure yet though. The front wall is going to be block in front of the steel.
Inside the safe, I’m looking at one maybe two layers of drywall, then a layer of fire resistant MDF. I guess to fasten it all to the walls I’m using liquid nails and fitting all as tight as possible so it should be able to hold itself up if the glue were to burn up. I haven’t figured out what to do for the floor yet. Some type of fire resistant rubber mat might work well. Anything I’m doing wrong here or that could be better? I realize this is no sealed Amsec. I think it’s the best I can do for the money I have. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Also with this level/type of fire protection, is it worth going with Amsec? There are cheaper doors with equivalent security. I just figured Amsec would have the best fire and security together. Also, I should add. I can not build it to the ceiling. This room has access to all the water pipes that run through my house and that’s all mounted above were the safe will be. There will be a space of about two and a half feet in there. I was just going to cut two layers of drywall to lay up there for a little extra fire protection. @TheSafeGuy If you get some time to look at this, I would definitely appreciate your opinion. |
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Posted: 1/18/2023 9:35:58 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44: So what I’m looking at now, I’ve got the outer walls outside the safe filled pretty tight, using 3/4” plywood and expanded metal in those walls. The safe is being built right up to the inner was which are dry wall. The safe is 1/4” steel. Don’t have a door yet. Probably putting a 80x30 Amsec on it. Not sure yet though. The front wall is going to be block in front of the steel. Inside the safe, I’m looking at one maybe two layers of drywall, then a layer of fire resistant MDF. Anything I’m doing wrong here or that could be better? @bruh44 You probably know but just in case; Type X drywall has special core additives that allow it to be used in fire rated designs and usually comes in 5/8” thickness. Type X drywall products will have a UL/ULC Marking printed on the back of each board identifying it as a fire-resistance rated board. |
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Posted: 1/18/2023 10:18:00 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BGENE: @bruh44 You probably know but just in case; Type X drywall has special core additives that allow it to be used in fire rated designs and usually comes in 5/8” thickness. Type X drywall products will have a UL/ULC Marking printed on the back of each board identifying it as a fire-resistance rated board. That’s what I plan to use inside. Thank you! |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 1:21:14 PM EDT
[#44]
I'm planning to build around a BFX6030 using that drywall, to try and hide the safe
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Posted: 2/4/2023 3:45:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#45]
Picked up an Amsec VD8030BFQ for my build. I'm still looking to get some knowledgeable thoughts on my post above. I did change one plan. I don't plan to use MDF board. Just two layers of fireboard with seams staggered.
I'm also curious if it's worth trying to fill the seams. I picked up some fire seal caulk to try it. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/6/2023 2:15:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44: Picked up an Amsec VD8030BFQ for my build. I'm still looking to get some knowledgeable thoughts on my post above. I did change one plan. I don't plan to use MDF board. Just two layers of fireboard with seams staggered. I'm also curious if it's worth trying to fill the seams. I picked up some fire seal caulk to try it. Good call on using Drywall. The best joint seal is liberal use of RTV Silicone. It has a very high temperate tolerance (>700ºF), and provides a high degree of flexibility to deal with thermal expansion of the panels. In fire testing, the RTV silicone proved to be the ideal joint sealing compound. Fire seal caulk dries hard, and then fractures and breaks away during thermal stress. As a joint seal on metal joints, it works okay, but with the floating nature of drywall boards, not so good. For best results with a Vault Door, you should consider a door-over-door construction. The VD series does not actively "seal" the door to the framing. If you really want a fireproof room, sealing the door opening well would go a long way to better fire resistance. I would build out a 2-3 layer drywall panel, framed in metal for integrity, with hinges and toggle latches. On the VD frame, use Palusol (https://odice.com/US/) to create a reactive seal around the perimeter back face and along the bottom edge with the floor. This may sound like overkill, but if you want the best protection, it's a good idea. Vault doors in general are not real great fire barriers. They are primarily designed to provide security, not fire resistance. |
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Posted: 2/6/2023 9:15:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bruh44]
[#47]
Thank you for all that info.
Ordering the RTV shortly. There are a lot of brand names in RTV. I’ll go with JB Weld unless there is something you recommend over that. As for sealing the door, I was planning to weld the inner frame to the 1/4 body inside and bolting into the stone. This is going to be more of a large safe than a vault. It’s all I could fit in that room. It’ll be large enough to walk into. But no dance parties in there. It would be a little tight to have more than one person in with all the toys that’ll be in there. The bottom will have a plate of steel on it too. It should be welded up pretty tight. I’m not clear on what door over door construction is. Do you mean adding a layer directly to the inside of the door?Understand I have zero knowledge about what I’m doing here. I’m just trying to figure it out as I go. I don’t expect this to be 100% sealed up. I just was it to be the best I can do/afford on it. Thank you again! |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/7/2023 4:30:31 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44:I’m not clear on what door over door construction is. Do you mean adding a layer directly to the inside of the door?Understand I have zero knowledge about what I’m doing here. I’m just trying to figure it out as I go. I don’t expect this to be 100% sealed up. I just was it to be the best I can do/afford on it. Thank you again! I was suggesting you cover the Vault Door with an outer fireproof door. The face of the vault door frame would be the mounting and sealing surface. It would be kinda like a screen door over and entry door arrangement. You would un-latch the fire door, to expose the vault door behind. No security necessary, just some toggle clamps to make the door pull down and hold it closed tightly against the frame, so the seals could expand and create a nice fire barrier. It's an idea if you really want to step up fire resistance, not a must-have. |
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Posted: 2/7/2023 8:41:01 PM EDT
[#49]
I don’t think I’m going to go that far with it. I do have one additional question. Should I use a layer of drywall/fire board between the block wall and steel?
Thank you for all your help. I think this build is going to of much better quality because of what i read that you posted and your suggestions. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/8/2023 3:21:04 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bruh44:Should I use a layer of drywall/fire board between the block wall and steel? Not advisable. The drywall decays and reverts to its constituent materials as it releases steam and goes thru "calcination". The breakdown results in a crumbling panel that would result in gaps. Filling gaps -behind and inside- the frames would be a good idea, but do not place drywall anywhere that is a structural support. |
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