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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2019 10:14:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Possible]
[#1]
First of all, thank you for replying to my previous post. I'll look into getting some of that mortar. It should work perfectly as it can be mixed to be self-leveling. I would probably brush on a thin layer of concrete glue first to help adhesion of the thin layer over the original fill.
A nervous burglar full of adrenaline is hardly going to manipulate a lock in good time. A burglar should be working against the clock any way; that's what an alarm does for you. But, Tony, I thought the BFll came with a Group 2M lock to match it up with the TL15 bolt works. Has that changed? |
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Posted: 11/6/2019 12:29:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Possible:
First of all, thank you for replying to my previous post. I'll look into getting some of that mortar. It should work perfectly as it can be mixed to be self-leveling. I would probably brush on a thin layer of concrete glue first to help adhesion of the thin layer over the original fill. A nervous burglar full of adrenaline is hardly going to manipulate a lock in good time. A burglar should be working against the clock any way; that's what an alarm does for you. But, Tony, I thought the BFll came with a Group 2M lock to match it up with the TL15 bolt works. Has that changed? |
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Posted: 11/29/2019 7:28:31 PM EDT
[#3]
AMSEC safe, quit opening, swapped in some fresh energizers, no beeps, no lights, no love....
When putting in the new batts I THINK I heard on single beep when batt connected. Tried 3 diff sets of batts I THINK it's an ESL 10 keypad halp!  Attached File Attached File |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 11/30/2019 6:05:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Code33]
[#4]
Hi TSG,
Your dedication to answering people’s information in this thread and obvious expertise has convinced me to get a BFII7250 (I was going to get the RF703620X6 but I needed the biggest possible safe). It’s also the reason I joined this site after taking 3 days total to read this entire thread. I know before the redudndant lockwork was only available for the BF series, but on this website, it shows it available for the BFII: https://www.deansafe.com/products/amg-bf7250-ii?variant=13667088203831 Is that just a glitch? If so, I would probably get the LP redundant lock. Since you mentioned we can pay extra for any changes we want, i want to spring for the best redundant mechanical/digital lock available with price not being a concern. If you had to choose one, which one would you choose? LP, the securam Extreme, etc? Also, the site above shows only limited options, someone mentioned there is a whole slew of options available like glass relockers, adding more deadbolts. Is there a website or PDF that shows the complete list of things we can add to the safe? |
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Posted: 12/8/2019 12:07:04 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By juan223:
AMSEC safe, quit opening, swapped in some fresh energizers, no beeps, no lights, no love.... When putting in the new batts I THINK I heard on single beep when batt connected. Tried 3 diff sets of batts I THINK it's an ESL 10 keypad halp! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/137019/IMG_20191129_154350503_jpg-1178090.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/137019/IMG_20191129_154448835_jpg-1178091.JPG |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/11/2019 9:32:51 AM EDT
[#6]
My 5 year old ESL10 did the same thing. Luckily, I finally got my safe open and left the door open until I could have the lock replaced. I replace it with a mechanical lock.
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Posted: 12/11/2019 1:50:37 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dcashel:
My 5 year old ESL10 did the same thing. Luckily, I finally got my safe open and left the door open until I could have the lock replaced. I replace it with a mechanical lock. |
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Posted: 12/15/2019 12:35:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WTR_Warlord]
[#8]
Does anyone know how to tell what year the safe was made? AMSEC BF7240
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2019 1:36:25 AM EDT
[#9]
I've been slowly making my way through this thread and am currently at page 20. Would like to say big thanks to everyone who contributed as there is a LOT of information in here.
I'm hoping someone can help me identify a safe I came into possession of. It is missing any labels or markings, about 23.5" tall, 19" wide and 20" deep, weighs between 300 and 400 lbs by my estimation and has LA GARD digital lock on it. I've looked everywhere trying to find what this may be, but so far just can't seem to find the exact match. It is heavy and seems well built, which points me to USA made safe, but then it is missing any markings and does not have a seal. Curiously enough, it has hex nuts in the face of dead bolts which I have never seen before as well as completely rectangular hinges. If I stand back 15 feet and squint, it kind of looks like AMSEC BF2116 but with a different handle, but then again, my understanding is that AMSEC safes are being copied left and right, so it could be one of the knock-offs. It would be great if someone can point me in the right direction - I'd like to know if I have a robust heavy safe or a giant paper weight. Photos below: https://imgur.com/a/KH4x3tg Thank you! |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/26/2019 4:58:04 AM EDT
[#10]
i have a TL-30 safe, 4400lbs. im not sure if it can be bolted down easily since you would have to drill the bottom, any opinions or tips?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/27/2019 11:40:06 PM EDT
[#11]
Well, looks like I'm the newest member of the "ESL5" not working club. I got almost a year of good service out of mine until all of the sudden it would take the code, but no actuator "click" to unlock the safe. I threw a fresh battery in which seemed to work for a full week before I returned to the safe and couldn't even get the keypad to activate. I only use new Duracell or Procell batteries here, but it seems to have gone off the rails. I'm burning thru 9Vs like a madman, now down to a few days of service before they're completely dead (only 1 or 2 cycles in that short period too). My guess is there is something internally wrong with it draining power like a madman.
I've reached out to AMSEC twice in two months with my serial number but they haven't graced my inbox or phone with a response. Not sure what to do next, any suggestions? |
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Posted: 12/28/2019 11:11:12 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NISMOTom:
Well, looks like I'm the newest member of the "ESL5" not working club. I got almost a year of good service out of mine until all of the sudden it would take the code, but no actuator "click" to unlock the safe. I threw a fresh battery in which seemed to work for a full week before I returned to the safe and couldn't even get the keypad to activate. I only use new Duracell or Procell batteries here, but it seems to have gone off the rails. I'm burning thru 9Vs like a madman, now down to a few days of service before they're completely dead (only 1 or 2 cycles in that short period too). My guess is there is something internally wrong with it draining power like a madman. I've reached out to AMSEC twice in two months with my serial number but they haven't graced my inbox or phone with a response. Not sure what to do next, any suggestions? |
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Posted: 12/28/2019 11:14:26 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nhojyelbom:
i have a TL-30 safe, 4400lbs. im not sure if it can be bolted down easily since you would have to drill the bottom, any opinions or tips? Some go the DIY route but I think I would just pay knowing it is being done right. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/28/2019 10:45:00 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BGENE:
@THESAFEGUY FWIW I grabbed my multimeter tonight and am measuring a parasitic draw at rest of 365 microamps. According to other gouge posted by TSG an ESL5 is only supposed to draw somewhere between 15-20 at rest, so it's definitely shot. Now I just need to sort out my next steps and see if AmSec will back this thing up. I miss the S&G mechanical I had on my BF6030, but there was no room for it after this PCS so I went with something less stout and more "convenient." |
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Posted: 12/31/2019 1:48:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NISMOTom:
Sent him an email via the forum, but thanks for the tag. Hoping he'll chime in once the holidays calm down a bit, but not too late as I've already been waiting for a response from AmSec for over a month. FWIW I grabbed my multimeter tonight and am measuring a parasitic draw at rest of 365 microamps. According to other gouge posted by TSG an ESL5 is only supposed to draw somewhere between 15-20 at rest, so it's definitely shot. Now I just need to sort out my next steps and see if AmSec will back this thing up. I miss the S&G mechanical I had on my BF6030, but there was no room for it after this PCS so I went with something less stout and more "convenient." |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/6/2020 7:26:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Don’t believe it is an AMSEC BF or knock off. They have a 1/2 steel door, and not a composite TL looking door. If it was TL rated it should weigh about 700 lbs or more at that size. My guess is it is similar to the AMSEC CSC line. The CSC has moderate security and fire protection, but is not TL rated.
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Posted: 1/6/2020 8:30:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NISMOTom:
..... I've reached out to AMSEC twice in two months with my serial number but they haven't graced my inbox or phone with a response. Not sure what to do next, any suggestions? |
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USA
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Posted: 1/28/2020 5:14:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Loneshark]
[#18]
Wow! Reading this forum is akin to drinking from a fountain hose of information. Thank you TSG and others - your information has helped me and I'm sure many others to make a better choices based on knowledge rather than sales hype. As an old circuit board tech I loved the discussion of the capacitors - see some do pay attention to details!
Many discussions of locks and symptoms to look for to avoid a real problem. Your temperature graphs tell a great story - could we get a plot of the RF (RF6825) line added to your "BF vs them" chart? I'm curious what the differences would be between the types of fills - if you can. I know who I'm buying from - what's in your wallet? |
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Posted: 1/28/2020 8:39:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FireFlyer]
[#19]
@TheSafeGuy
I;ve been searching forever to find TL15 body testing requirements.....and I found it here! ahhahaha, I finally joined and stopped lurking because of you, This place rocks, The TL15 seems like a good compromise What do you think of the Inkas Titan 1212; the Amsecs up here seem to be a lot more; probably because of the frieght, Also, the TL15 is tested for 5 min on the body with TL30 Tools, how resistant would you say the door is to TL30 tools? As simple as one smart cut and youre in? TL10ish with TL30 Tools? Do TL15 tools include angle grinders or sawzalls? I've seen conflicting info. ULC is difficult to get a hold of .... Thank you for your time and knowledge! |
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USA
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Posted: 2/17/2020 6:04:00 PM EDT
[#20]
The RF6528 does not have bolts top and bottom of the door, yet the holes are there in the frame as well as the door. Is this a new change?
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Posted: 2/17/2020 8:54:33 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By juan223: And now after checking almost daily...i pushed a keypad button and actually got a red light! I quickly entered my combo and it worked... could it take a week to charge the capacitor? |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/19/2020 1:57:15 PM EDT
[#22]
Once I called I had a human on the line that understood the issue within about 3 minutes. They offered to send out a new lock-set and keypad immediately. Pretty happy with the fast resolution once I was able to speak with someone.
Tom |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 3/7/2020 9:55:04 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By juan223: And it went out again |
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Posted: 3/8/2020 12:46:28 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Possible:
Good grief, Juan! You're not still locking the door on that safe, are you? Trust me. Just replacing a lock is cheaper than drilling and replacing a lock. I highly recommend installing an S&G 6730 mechanical lock. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Possible:
Originally Posted By juan223: And it went out again |
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Posted: 3/17/2020 1:10:22 AM EDT
[#25]
Well....I got lucky again and AMSECrap safe will never be locked again with this electronic crap
Now....how I did it. Every day at least once I've been hitting a key or three to see if I get a beep or anything at all thinking the 'capacitors' needed charging or something. I was getting nothing until I unplugged and replugged the "phone cable" connection looking thing... When I plugged it back in it would beep once...but I was getting no keypad beeps after that...The cable connection seemed loose in its slot so I toyed with applying gentle pressure in different directions seeing if it would help connectivity... while doing that I kept pressing the C key and the first key of my combo to check for good connectivity. Even with good connectivity the C key would never beep but the 1st number would....... it took 3 tries but I got the whole code to beep when entered and heard the 'thunk"!! Oh joy!! Now to order that Sgt Schultz mechanical lock.....or whatever it's called. |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:06:47 AM EDT
[#26]
My apologies, I have been quiet. It's been insane busy since the SHOT Show. Now this pandemic. I hope everyone is keeping safe, staying home and healthy. I'll try to get caught up...
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:23:06 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Code33: I know before the redudndant lockwork was only available for the BF series, but on this website, it shows it available for the BFII: https://www.deansafe.com/products/amg-bf7250-ii?variant=13667088203831 Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Code33: I know before the redudndant lockwork was only available for the BF series, but on this website, it shows it available for the BFII: https://www.deansafe.com/products/amg-bf7250-ii?variant=13667088203831 Dean has it wrong, the RLB system is only available on the BF line, not the BFII. Sorry. If so, I would probably get the LP redundant lock. Since you mentioned we can pay extra for any changes we want, i want to spring for the best redundant mechanical/digital lock available with price not being a concern. If you had to choose one, which one would you choose? LP, the securam Extreme, etc? I don't feel like my value here is best served by recommendations about competition products. PM sent. Also, the site above shows only limited options, someone mentioned there is a whole slew of options available like glass relockers, adding more deadbolts. Is there a website or PDF that shows the complete list of things we can add to the safe? The limited options listed are standard options we offer. Dean Safe is stack an array of models, and they are capable of changing out some hardware to suit customers. Some options are not available on the BFII line. Not sure which ones you are interested in, but you may find that what you heard was regarding the RF line. |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:25:01 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By juan223: And now after checking almost daily...i pushed a keypad button and actually got a red light! I quickly entered my combo and it worked... could it take a week to charge the capacitor? Yes, it could take a week in some isolated cases to discharge the faulty capacitor. You got lucky... |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:27:05 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Avila33: Does anyone know how to tell what year the safe was made? AMSEC BF7240 If you have the Serial Number, I can tell you. Otherwise, there should be a label of the door-frame inside with a date code that shows quarter/year (QQ/YY). |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:38:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tranquilizator: It would be great if someone can point me in the right direction - I'd like to know if I have a robust heavy safe or a giant paper weight. Photos below: https://imgur.com/a/KH4x3tg I have seen that safe before, just can't place it. I think it may be a TL15 made by SEYMA in Costa Rica. I visited their factory back in the late 90's. |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:42:35 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NISMOTom: Well, looks like I'm the newest member of the "ESL5" not working club. I got almost a year of good service out of mine until all of the sudden it would take the code, but no actuator "click" to unlock the safe. I threw a fresh battery in which seemed to work for a full week before I returned to the safe and couldn't even get the keypad to activate. I only use new Duracell or Procell batteries here, but it seems to have gone off the rails. I'm burning thru 9Vs like a madman, now down to a few days of service before they're completely dead (only 1 or 2 cycles in that short period too). My guess is there is something internally wrong with it draining power like a madman. I've reached out to AMSEC twice in two months with my serial number but they haven't graced my inbox or phone with a response. Not sure what to do next, any suggestions? Sorry I missed this one. Has this been resolved? |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 10:52:54 AM EDT
[#32]
Welcome back TSG!
Glad you are safe and sound, and back! |
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USA
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Posted: 4/1/2020 9:50:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ArmedAndLoaded]
[#33]
Any opinions on this older CF for a home safe? I'm not sure exactly how old it is at the moment. Lock would be replaced with an s&g 6730.
Edit: apparently imgur is broken at the moment.    https://imgur.com/mKYz0BN https://imgur.com/bafHAkH https://imgur.com/RF2YRn9 |
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USA
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Posted: 4/5/2020 5:19:17 PM EDT
[#34]
Welcome back, TSG! I was on AMSEC's website today and noticed the new MAX line of safes. From a security standpoint, how do these safes compare to the AmVault CE TL-15 safes? Considering the overlap with the AmVault line, what was the driver for this new safe line? Is this primarily targeted toward someone that wants TL-15 level security in a lighter weight, more cost effective model or was there another reason for the new series? Is this USA made or an import? Will the AmVault CE line continue to be made?
On a side note... I have a total of (3) American Security safes now all with the ESL10XL lock which have been operating flawlessly. On my latest safe, the lock case is a pewter (dull gray) color. The lock case on my two other safes are a bronze color. Out of curiosity, was the case material changed or is this primarily cosmetic? Thanks again for your contributions to the forum over the years. |
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USA
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Posted: 4/6/2020 8:51:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheResurrector]
[#35]
Any idea if this old Hercules
 ETA: Here's a pic of the inside if that helps. I was wearing an N95 mask when I cut it open. 
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/7/2020 6:26:13 PM EDT
[#36]
 Don't give up your day job.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/8/2020 2:04:01 AM EDT
[#37]
TSG: I sent you a PM if you get a chance please respond thank you!
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Posted: 4/10/2020 2:23:15 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By oldbutspry: Any idea if this old Hercules Unlikely. Fire barrier materials are generally made with a slurry of Cement/Mortar, Vermiculite, Diatomaceous Earth, Perlite, a few other trace aerating ingredients and a little secret sauce. None of those ingredients generally have had significant Asbestos content. Unless you see the tel-tail glossy weave and furry fibers that are characteristically seen as Asbestos, you are probably safe. |
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Posted: 4/10/2020 2:37:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: garr]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Unlikely. Fire barrier materials are generally made with a slurry of Cement/Mortar, Vermiculite, Diatomaceous Earth, Perlite, a few other trace aerating ingredients and a little secret sauce. None of those ingredients generally have had significant Asbestos content. Unless you see the tel-tail glossy weave and furry fibers that are characteristically seen as Asbestos, you are probably safe. I disagree, the only way to be sure is to have a sample checked by an expert. If it is like early 1970's old or older it probably has some asbestos in it, they used to add asbestos to all sorts of stuff as it is virtually indestructible. Op should have followed Asbestos protocols before possibly spreading that crap around, at least keep it very wet with soapy water while working with it, an N95 mask is pretty useless at keeping asbestos out of your lungs. |
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Posted: 4/10/2020 2:41:52 PM EDT
[#40]
I agree, safety first. I should have lead with that. I was just saying that Asbestos in not a primary ingredient in most fire safe fill materials.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 4/10/2020 2:52:46 PM EDT
[#41]
Lots of old safes with asbestos in them. Everything from the door seals to the insulation materials. Even vermiculite itself can be contaminated.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/13/2020 7:12:18 PM EDT
[#42]
To The Safe Guy: is there a kit of parts available to install a second lock on my Amsec CE6528? I am thinking the relocker assembly and hard plate? If there is, can you tell me the part number. If not can I just order individual parts? (I understand that both locks must be unlocked to open the safe) Thanks, Jim
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Posted: 5/18/2020 8:49:52 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheSafeGuy: Sorry I missed this one. Has this been resolved? TSG - Thanks for following up. It was resolved with a phone call at no cost, a replacement ESL was sent via common carrier and I had it swapped out in about 15 minutes no problem. Let me know if anyone at AmSec would want to examine the faulty unit. I'm 99% sure I still have it and could get it shipped out for a post-mortem if desired, otherwise it'll be awaiting my next opportunity to get it to the household hazardous waste site. |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 12:09:33 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MattK2:I was on AMSEC's website today and noticed the new MAX line of safes. From a security standpoint, how do these safes compare to the AmVault CE TL-15 safes? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MattK2:I was on AMSEC's website today and noticed the new MAX line of safes. From a security standpoint, how do these safes compare to the AmVault CE TL-15 safes? They are genuine UL Listed TL-15 safes. Since testing ends on a clock, you never get a measure of how long it might have gone to failure, so it's not expected that we get a comparative measure of attack resistance. Some safes might be just enough, while others may be seriously over-built. The testing at UL doesn't care. Considering the overlap with the AmVault line, what was the driver for this new safe line? Competitive position in the market. In the last couple years, the TL market has been swamped with very cheap safes sold directly to US distributors nationwide (our customers), mostly from rising new factories in China. TL-15 safes are now a commodity, where price is all the consumer cares about. Made in the USA at a higher price no longer allows a domestic product to maintain a reasonable market share. This has already happened in the lower-security markets, and it is bleeding up-hill into high security. Is this primarily targeted toward someone that wants TL-15 level security in a lighter weight, more cost effective model or was there another reason for the new series? Mostly price point. There is a small segment of the market that shows preference for lighter safes, but that is pretty limited. Is this USA made or an import? It is an Import, but with the usual elevated Quality standards we impose, and touches that make the product more appealing with features that fit into the market better. Will the AmVault CE line continue to be made? At this time that is not decided. The consumer will make that choice for us. We would love to be the noble Team USA player and fight the imports, but the reality is that AMSEC is one of the few US manufacturers left standing against this relentless onslaught of import pressure. The labor cost disparity is so vast, there is no way we can make the same product here for the same cost, no matter how much automation and "lean manufacturing" you employ. We must make a profit, like any other viable company. Taking a hard line fighting import competitors has put many safe companies out of business, the list is long. Most of the brand-name companies that have survived don't make anything domestically any more, they have become distributors with warehouses. On my latest safe, the lock case is a pewter (dull gray) color. The lock case on my two other safes are a bronze color. Out of curiosity, was the case material changed or is this primarily cosmetic? There was a shift in corrosion protection that resulted in a color change. This was forced by environmental concerns and regulation changes. The new color is not a concern, and exhaustive environmental testing proves the new finish is just as good as the old. Sorry, I don't know what's going on with formatting here. It all looks good on my edit window, but when I post the message, it gets all parsed. Website bug? |
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Posted: 5/20/2020 12:13:10 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NISMOTom: TSG - Thanks for following up. It was resolved with a phone call at no cost, a replacement ESL was sent via common carrier and I had it swapped out in about 15 minutes no problem. Let me know if anyone at AmSec would want to examine the faulty unit. I'm 99% sure I still have it and could get it shipped out for a post-mortem if desired, otherwise it'll be awaiting my next opportunity to get it to the household hazardous waste site. No need to return the lock. We evaluate every lock that is replaced by authorized technicians and gather adequate data to recognize trends in reliability that need to be addressed. Thanks for offering. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/4/2020 4:33:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheBestest]
[#46]
So I'm having a hard time deciding between a BF6636 and a BFII6636. I think the concerns of fire and theft are equal, I live in a city so response times for both should be average.
A few years ago, almost half the town burned to the ground in the CA wildfires. After talking to a bunch of locksmiths, no safes are built for these conditions, obviously, but the ones that survived were Amsec and Fort Knox, with some luck on how fast/hot the fire moved. But, after reading 50+ pages of this forum, I think I'm going with Amsec since the Ft Knox doesn't have an inner liner unless you pay $$$ nor have had proper independent lab fire testing. What's the difference in bolt work between the BF and BFII? I keep seeing that the BFII has TL-15 bolt work, but what does that actually mean? More bolts? Different linkage? Bolts are welded? Is there a difference in the body (besides the 4 ga liner)? Don't you lose interior volume when adding that liner? The website says the volumes for the BF and BFII are the same (6636 size). How can I choose? Thanks for your insights! |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 6:01:59 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheBestest: What's the difference in bolt work between the BF and BFII? I keep seeing that the BFII has TL-15 bolt work, but what does that actually mean? More bolts? Different linkage? Bolts are welded? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheBestest: What's the difference in bolt work between the BF and BFII? I keep seeing that the BFII has TL-15 bolt work, but what does that actually mean? More bolts? Different linkage? Bolts are welded? The Boltwork difference is substantial, and the TL15 Boltwork on the BFII is superior by a significant margin in every regard. Better hard-plate, double-wall bolt guides, heavier mechanisms, better punch-resistance, better pry resistance, thicker materials on everything. If burglary is a concern, the BFII is a far better choice. Is there a difference in the body (besides the 4 ga liner)? Don't you lose interior volume when adding that liner? The website says the volumes for the BF and BFII are the same (6636 size). The fire resistance is the same. The heavier liner material takes up so little space, it's rounded off in the specifications. Indeed, the inside dimensions are reduced, but by maybe 3/16 inch or so... The BFII is superior to the BF in security, and equivalent in fire protection. TSG |
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Posted: 6/4/2020 6:17:59 PM EDT
[#48]
I have the BFII6030. I picked that over the BF6030 because the RSCII rating is basically a TL-10 rating. RSC is one man limited to a 3/8" drill, 3# hammers, 18" pry tools and such. RSC II is two men, a 6# sledgehammer, a 6 foot pry bar, a carbide hole saw, and such.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/6/2020 11:27:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheBestest]
[#49]
I read about the differences in the dial vs. electronic (ESL10XL). Since I'm not storing rapid-need items in the box, do I really need electronic? Or should I stick with the mechanical dial? Can I order it with an S&G mechanical at time of ordering? I don't see it in the Lock Options tab.
Can mechanical locks rust so you can't spin? They're fully coated, I suspect? I keep reading about solenoid failure with electronic locks, is that common on the solenoid included in Amsec RSC's? With a mechanical lock, you pull the locking bar up when spun for the last time to the right, so it doesn't need a solenoid? Also, can you talk about the MAX15 series, specifically those with the gun safe interior like the MAX6528GS? Why do they not have the same lifetime warranty against burglary/fire as the BF and RF, even though it is TL-15 rated? Isn't that contradicting the Warranty Information PDF since it's a gun safe over 55"? |
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Posted: 6/8/2020 1:32:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheSafeGuy]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheBestest: ... do I really need electronic? Or should I stick with the mechanical dial? Can I order it with an S&G mechanical at time of ordering? I don't see it in the Lock Options tab. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheBestest: ... do I really need electronic? Or should I stick with the mechanical dial? Can I order it with an S&G mechanical at time of ordering? I don't see it in the Lock Options tab. Sure, you can order with the mechanical lock, but you may pay a bit more since the safe comes equipped with the ESL10XL standard. Check with your dealer. Can mechanical locks rust so you can't spin? They're fully coated, I suspect? The mechanical locks don't generally have corrosion issues. All parts are brass. stainless steel or coated. They are all subject to 72 hour salt-spray testing as part of their certification. I keep reading about solenoid failure with electronic locks, is that common on the solenoid included in Amsec RSC's? With a mechanical lock, you pull the locking bar up when spun for the last time to the right, so it doesn't need a solenoid? All locks have a small potential for failure. The mechanical locks tend to be a little easier to remedy after failure, given a skilled locksmith is working the problem. When e-locks fail, it generally results in drilling. E-Locks have far greater mechanical life, aside from the convenience they offer. Our e-Locks are tested to 1 million cycles without service. Typical 3-wheel mechanical locks have an expected un-serviced lifespan of around 30k cycles. In residential use, not really an issue. In commercial or high-frequency use, e-locks are preferred. Also, can you talk about the MAX15 series, specifically those with the gun safe interior like the MAX6528GS? Why do they not have the same lifetime warranty against burglary/fire as the BF and RF, even though it is TL-15 rated? Isn't that contradicting the Warranty Information PDF since it's a gun safe over 55"? The MAX series is a commercial safe line, and is not covered under the same warranty program. Putting a Gunsafe interior in a high security safe doesn't change the basic safe warranty. Sorry, our warranty policy/literature should provide exclusions that are not listed. Gunsafes have become a harsh commodity market, where fierce competition has driven the market to very low margins and extraordinary warranty coverage. The warranty in the Gunsafe market has nothing to do with reliability or fire resistance, it has everything to do with enticing consumers. All commercial safes come with a 1-year warranty, which has been the industry standard for many decades. |
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