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Posted: 6/3/2022 1:24:46 PM EDT
[#1]
How rough is the 3m pad? Usually the colors will signify what level it is.
I Usually use 100 or 150 to start then I finish with a 220 or 320. I will then stain, or leave the natural look. After that I hit it with multiple coats of my 1/3rd Mix and call it good. |
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Posted: 6/3/2022 1:34:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How rough is the 3m pad? Usually the colors will signify what level it is. I Usually use 100 or 150 to start then I finish with a 220 or 320. I will then stain, or leave the natural look. After that I hit it with multiple coats of my 1/3rd Mix and call it good. Brown is very rough. Green would be good or even a white one if you want to really smooth it out. I use 000 to 0000 steel wool. |
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Posted: 6/3/2022 2:26:06 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brown is very rough. Green would be good or even a white one if you want to really smooth it out. I use 000 to 0000 steel wool. One think I’m worried about is the stain the stock came with, I’m hoping it won’t stop the stock from absorbing the oil. The 3M pad is not the dark brown one, seems like a medium |
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Posted: 6/3/2022 3:03:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Hopefully the CMP has stopped using those Boyd's stock that had the funky stain that was untouchable. Almost like it was resin. A LOT of folks complained that the stocks were junk at the time because they could not be refinished.
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Posted: 6/3/2022 3:57:47 PM EDT
[#5]
I wouldn’t touch it at all, just oil it. Most people sand the stocks too smooth. Anything over about 120 or 150 grit is too smooth.
The CMP stocks are smoother than any of my unused USGI post war stocks. The USGI stocks also have areas of deep sanding scratches from initial manufacturing. When I see a M1 stock someone sanded smooth and made it look like some high end hunting rifle...,  .
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Posted: 6/3/2022 5:11:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I wouldn’t touch it at all, just oil it. Most people sand the stocks too smooth. Anything over about 120 or 150 grit is too smooth. The CMP stocks are smoother than any of my unused USGI post war stocks. The USGI stocks also have areas of deep sanding scratches from initial manufacturing. When I see a M1 stock someone sanded smooth and made it look like some high end hunting rifle..., .Mine has a new stock on it. I read that some people have trouble getting the new stocks to soak up the oil because of the stain used. I put a test spot of oil in the bottom of the grip, I’m giving it an hour to see how much, if any soaks in. If it doesn’t soak in I’m gonna have to sand it down |
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Posted: 6/3/2022 8:09:27 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Mine has a new stock on it. I read that some people have trouble getting the new stocks to soak up the oil because of the stain used. I put a test spot of oil in the bottom of the grip, I’m giving it an hour to see how much, if any soaks in. If it doesn’t soak in I’m gonna have to sand it down I think the issue is not soaking in but uneven color because the original finish was not applied evenly. You will need to at least put one complete coat on the see this. Since you are planning to possibly sand it anyway. Oiling it now to see what it will look like will not be a problem. If you don’t like it, sand it off. If you do sand it, you have to remove all the original finish. If you leave any, you will have the same issue you are trying to avoid, but worse. I have completely sanded/oiled and oiled over their finish. Both looked fine. If anything, I like the color of oiling over their finish better. |
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Posted: 6/4/2022 10:40:09 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think the issue is not soaking in but uneven color because the original finish was not applied evenly. You will need to at least put one complete coat on the see this. Since you are planning to possibly sand it anyway. Oiling it now to see what it will look like will not be a problem. If you don’t like it, sand it off. If you do sand it, you have to remove all the original finish. If you leave any, you will have the same issue you are trying to avoid, but worse. I have completely sanded/oiled and oiled over their finish. Both looked fine. If anything, I like the color of oiling over their finish better. I oiled it up last night, let it sit for a good amount of time, wiped it off. I’ll see how it looks later when I get home from work |
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Posted: 6/9/2022 9:00:03 AM EDT
[#9]
So I did my third coat last night, I gave it a couple of days as it’s summer here and my A//C is set at 68F. I read the raw linseed oil takes longer to polymerize. So I’m going for a dark walnut look with not to much of a sheen, should I be doing steel wool or fine sand paper between coats?
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Posted: 6/9/2022 12:15:05 PM EDT
[#10]
No, not unless you want a smooth glossy furniture look.
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Posted: 6/9/2022 3:38:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, not unless you want a smooth glossy furniture look. Thanks for the reply. I definitely do not. |
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Posted: 6/11/2022 1:36:02 PM EDT
[#12]
The contour is a little coarse on the CMP stocks, especially in front of the trigger group. Sometimes you have to take it down 1/8 - 3/16" there. You need to remove enough wood that the stain is gone in several spots. The problem is that when you oil it, it is uneven. It is best to sand all the stain off or stain it yourself if you recontour it.
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Posted: 6/12/2022 9:14:03 AM EDT
[#13]
Does anyone know if CMP stopped sending out those hackberry stocks? My service grade IH came with one, it was horrendous.
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Posted: 6/12/2022 10:05:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone know if CMP stopped sending out those hackberry stocks? My service grade IH came with one, it was horrendous. They have not been seen in awhile. The wood they were made from was poor but the woodworking was horrid. At some point hackberry stop and they seemed to start using worn GI stocks on the field grades and mostly new commercial stocks on the service grades. |
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Posted: 6/18/2022 1:17:54 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: Now the stock feels kind of rough and porous. Will the 3M pad be enough to smooth it out? I understand the regular stocks that are 70+ have years of use and oil so there smooth as butter, I’m just trying to achieve a finish smooth enough to soak in the oil You have this all backwards. The stocks were meant to have some roughness to them to help with grip it. A rough finish also is better for soaking up the oil. A smooth finish has pores that are closed off and won't accept as much oil or as quickly as a rougher finish. |
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Posted: 6/18/2022 5:09:24 PM EDT
[#16]
I’ve done a couple of Boyd’s stocks. My procedure has been to strip the Boyd’s finish/stain using CitriStriper. Then apply a couple of liberal coats of Raw Linseed Oil(Flaxseed Oil is the same thing, just food grade). The only time I stain is if there is sapwood. If stain is needed, I use Birchwood Casey Walnut stain.
Linseed oils, especially Raw Linseed Oil, ages and oxidizes over time. As it does so, it turns the reddish brown that one sees in old military stocks. As for the roughness, handling and rubbing the stock will smooth it out. |
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Posted: 6/18/2022 6:23:43 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How rough is the 3m pad? Usually the colors will signify what level it is. I Usually use 100 or 150 to start then I finish with a 220 or 320. I will then stain, or leave the natural look. After that I hit it with multiple coats of my 1/3rd Mix and call it good. |
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Posted: 6/18/2022 6:28:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Definitely use some of TOTHEMAX's Gunny paste. I use it on all of my military stocks. Keeps the wood alive. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: How rough is the 3m pad? Usually the colors will signify what level it is. I Usually use 100 or 150 to start then I finish with a 220 or 320. I will then stain, or leave the natural look. After that I hit it with multiple coats of my 1/3rd Mix and call it good.  I plan on having a new batch made up this weekend. |
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Posted: 6/19/2022 8:28:01 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I plan on having a new batch made up this weekend. Care to share your formula? |
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Posted: 6/19/2022 10:03:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Care to share your formula? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I plan on having a new batch made up this weekend. Care to share your formula? Sure 1/3rd natural Wyoming bees wax 1/3rd BLO 1/3rd Turpentine. Its an old recipie but it works great. I started making it a few years ago and offering it on forums. I won't hi jack this thread with details but I plan on putting up a new thread in the EE here shortly. |
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Posted: 6/19/2022 11:01:22 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sure 1/3rd natural Wyoming bees wax 1/3rd BLO 1/3rd Turpentine. Its an old recipie but it works great. I started making it a few years ago and offering it on forums. I won't hi jack this thread with details but I plan on putting up a new thread in the EE here shortly. Many thanks! I like home made concoctions like this. Reminds me of making Ed's Red. Good stuff. |
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Posted: 6/19/2022 11:12:02 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone know if CMP stopped sending out those hackberry stocks? My service grade IH came with one, it was horrendous. I think I received a hackberry on one of my rack grades a few weeks ago. This is the first one I've received. It doesn't have any accessory holes drilled under the butt plate. Top one:  Attached File |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 9:45:06 AM EDT
[#23]
That doesn’t look like a hackberry, unless you did a lot of refinishing of the stock. If it has golden ish flecks, might be Danish beech. More than likely, it’s birch. If I can find the hated hackberry stock in my stash, I’ll post a picture.
Around 2007, there was a seller that was selling walnut and birch stocks that were take off stocks from Korea. I bought a bunch, they were cheap, and practiced refinishing on the stocks. Sold most, some are still in storage. |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 5:28:42 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Around 2007, there was a seller that was selling walnut and birch stocks that were take off stocks from Korea. I bought a bunch, they were cheap, and practiced refinishing on the stocks. Sold most, some are still in storage. Dougs Stockpile? I bought a bunch of stocks from him also, I forgot all about him |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 7:58:21 PM EDT
[#25]
The last field grade I got has the crappiest fit new stock I've ever seen. I'm tempted to burn it. I don't think it has any finish at all, but there's no cartouches or any other marks on it. It barely matched oem contours.
Doesn't matter, I wanted a receiver for a BM59 but damn, that stock is hideous |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 9:02:36 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The last field grade I got has the crappiest fit new stock I've ever seen. I'm tempted to burn it. I don't think it has any finish at all, but there's no cartouches or any other marks on it. It barely matched oem contours. Doesn't matter, I wanted a receiver for a BM59 but damn, that stock is hideous Who is doing the BM59 conversion? I've been thinking about a BM59 as this week a buddy of mine offered me a kit and barrel. I already have one built but can't have enough I guess. Was thinking of getting another rack grade just for a receiver. |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 9:42:33 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted: Hi guys, I revived my m1 from CMP yesterday, it’s the Expert grade so it has a new stock. I bought A kit from garandgear.com. It has RLO, a brown 3M pad and a micro fiber towel. Now the stock feels kind of rough and porous. Will the 3M pad be enough to smooth it out? I understand the regular stocks that are 70+ have years of use and oil so there smooth as butter, I’m just trying to achieve a finish smooth enough to soak in the oil |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 9:45:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That doesn’t look like a hackberry, unless you did a lot of refinishing of the stock. If it has golden ish flecks, might be Danish beech. More than likely, it’s birch. If I can find the hated hackberry stock in my stash, I’ll post a picture. Around 2007, there was a seller that was selling walnut and birch stocks that were take off stocks from Korea. I bought a bunch, they were cheap, and practiced refinishing on the stocks. Sold most, some are still in storage. Thank you for the reply. I thought it might be birch, but remembered talk on the CMP forum about Turkish blond stocks, without accessory holes, being hackberry. The rear upper handguard on that rife is a Boyds replacement (stamped underneath it). Looking at pictures on the CMP forum, it looks like hackberry is like the wood on a toy gun from an amusement park. Almost looks like it's painted brownish red plastic. OP, please keep us updated on your refinishing project. The third rifle in the picture is a CMP replacement stock that looks like they threw it into the bed of a truck and drove around for a day. Not pretty enough for a Special grade. I'll be refinishing that one, eventually. |
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Posted: 6/21/2022 9:54:50 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Who is doing the BM59 conversion? I've been thinking about a BM59 as this week a buddy of mine offered me a kit and barrel. I already have one built but can't have enough I guess. Was thinking of getting another rack grade just for a receiver. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: The last field grade I got has the crappiest fit new stock I've ever seen. I'm tempted to burn it. I don't think it has any finish at all, but there's no cartouches or any other marks on it. It barely matched oem contours. Doesn't matter, I wanted a receiver for a BM59 but damn, that stock is hideous Who is doing the BM59 conversion? I've been thinking about a BM59 as this week a buddy of mine offered me a kit and barrel. I already have one built but can't have enough I guess. Was thinking of getting another rack grade just for a receiver. Tim Shufflin at Shuffsparkerizing.did the BM59 conversion dont know if he still does this. |
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