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Posted: 12/19/2020 10:49:20 PM EDT
I've been using the Frankford arsenal hand primer.
Apparently not so perfect https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/perfect-seat-hand-primer/110006.html Every once in a while when seating the primers they end up looking like they're getting bent on one edge. Are these still safe to shoot or should I toss them?  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 12/19/2020 10:53:34 PM EDT
[#1]
Shoot em. It looks like maybe you're not getting enough of the crimp removed.
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Posted: 12/19/2020 10:56:57 PM EDT
[#2]
You need to remove the crimp better.
The edge of the primer is catching on the crimp and you're crushing that end of the primer. This is the exact reason I switched from the Hornady reamer to the lyman reamer, I kept having this issue. You need to remove all of the little edge of the crimp to prevent it from happening. The case should look like the one on the left.  Attached FileThey are safe to shoot though, just do a better job of removing the crimp moving forward and you will fix the issue. |
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Posted: 12/19/2020 11:08:52 PM EDT
[#3]
I agree with the crimp, I destroyed 20 primers my first ever run. Didn't swage enough.
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Posted: 12/19/2020 11:33:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Alright.
Thanks guys! I got these brass a few days ago from someone on gunbroker. He said he used a Camdex machine to process the brass. I'll pick up a different primer pocket reamer and hopefully that'll work. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 12:01:40 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Alright. Thanks guys! I got these brass a few days ago from someone on gunbroker. He said he used a Camdex machine to process the brass. I'll pick up a different primer pocket reamer and hopefully that'll work. If you're in a pinch you can use a countersink bit or a chamfer tool (that you would use for the necks). Just go very slow so you don't take off too much brass. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 12:54:49 AM EDT
[#6]
They'll be fine to shoot.
Concur, it's an issue of not removing enough of the crimp. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 3:22:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You need to remove the crimp better. The edge of the primer is catching on the crimp and you're crushing that end of the primer. This is the exact reason I switched from the Hornady reamer to the lyman reamer, I kept having this issue. You need to remove all of the little edge of the crimp to prevent it from happening. The case should look like the one on the left. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/20201130_205157_jpg-1739374.JPG They are safe to shoot though, just do a better job of removing the crimp moving forward and you will fix the issue. I literally just finished priming 200 .308 once fired "processed" pieces of brass. They were exactly what you showed, but in .308. Fuck that was a workout on my hands, but each one seated correctly. Guess I'll be picking up a Lyman. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 1:28:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Like others have said, get rid of the crimp.
https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/case-prep-expansion-kit/909215.html#start=1 |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 5:36:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I literally just finished priming 200 .308 once fired "processed" pieces of brass. They were exactly what you showed, but in .308. Fuck that was a workout on my hands, but each one seated correctly. Guess I'll be picking up a Lyman. I use a Lyman bit chucked in a drill to chamfer and remove crimp. It's a lifesaver. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 6:21:53 PM EDT
[#10]
I was having the same issue with a RCBS hand primer.
I was pushing the case all the way into the shell holder and a lot of times when I would set the primer, it would kind of ‘snap’ in, as opposed to sliding in smoothly with gentle pressure. A few of the primers looked like yours. I realized if I didn’t push the case in all of the way, maybe backed it off a hair, I never had the issue again. |
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Posted: 12/20/2020 10:59:13 PM EDT
[#11]
Shoot them, but put them in the plinking only pile. I've had that problem before and a few of the primers kind of flattened on seating and would not fire.
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Posted: 12/21/2020 5:11:36 PM EDT
[#12]
Also make sure the punch is nice and flat and square but the crimp is the main culprit.
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Posted: 12/23/2020 8:42:51 PM EDT
[#13]
I also have the FA Hand primer tool. One thing to double check is the arm (ram or whatever the metal rod is called that actually seats the primer). Check both ends of it. One is flat and one is round. Make sure you are using the flat end to seat the primers. The flat end touches the primer.
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Posted: 12/23/2020 9:26:24 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks for all the great replies and link.
With primers being like little pieces of gold these days, I really don't want to be messing any of them up! |
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Posted: 12/24/2020 12:31:40 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for all the great replies and link. With primers being like little pieces of gold these days, I really don't want to be messing any of them up! We got a good group here, and when I saw this thread the issue was already solved. So I didn't pile on. |
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Posted: 12/24/2020 12:43:06 AM EDT
[#16]
Sounds good man.
I've only been reloading for a couple years and always trying to learn more. |
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Posted: 12/24/2020 12:46:15 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sounds good man. I've only been reloading for a couple years and always trying to learn more. |
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Posted: 12/25/2020 4:43:39 PM EDT
[#18]
I was able to reproduce the problem for you in pics.
As the primer is going in it catches a lip of the primer crimp that was improperly chamfered.  Attached FileAs you press harder, the high spot of the primer begins to deform from the excess pressure applied to the high side. Eventually the part that catches folds on itself and the primer is crammed into the primer pocket. What you're left with is the marks left from the excessive force applied to the side that originally caught on the crimp.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/25/2020 5:44:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was able to reproduce the problem for you in pics. As the primer is going in it catches a lip of the primer crimp that was improperly chamfered. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/20201225_144848_jpg-1748152.JPG As you press harder, the high spot of the primer begins to deform from the excess pressure applied to the high side. Eventually the part that catches folds on itself and the primer is crammed into the primer pocket. What you're left with is the marks left from the excessive force applied to the side that originally caught on the crimp. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/20201225_144946_jpg-1748154.JPG I primed 100 .308 brass yesterday and spent a little extra time prepping and removing the crimp. All 100 are primed without any bent. Maybe I just need to make sure those crimps are totally gone before proceeding. |
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Posted: 12/25/2020 5:52:21 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I got these brass a few days ago from someone on gunbroker. He said he used a Camdex machine to process the brass. Every time I buy "processed brass" from some guy.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/25/2020 8:03:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you for sacrificing a primer for that! I primed 100 .308 brass yesterday and spent a little extra time prepping and removing the crimp. All 100 are primed without any bent. Maybe I just need to make sure those crimps are totally gone before proceeding. Sadly, it wasn't a sacrifice. I'm still loading through some I didn't fully remove the crimp on. Drives me crazy but I'm too lazy to go through and recut all 2k primer pockets. 
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Posted: 12/25/2020 8:06:15 PM EDT
[#22]
I don’t buy processed brass. I did once and it looks like they used a drill bit to hog out the crimps. I think I just threw it away.
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Posted: 12/25/2020 8:10:43 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted: I've been using the Frankford arsenal hand primer. Apparently not so perfect https://www.frankfordarsenal.com/perfect-seat-hand-primer/110006.html Every once in a while when seating the primers they end up looking like they're getting bent on one edge. Are these still safe to shoot or should I toss them? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/413870/IMG_6762_JPG-1739356.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/413870/IMG_6763_JPG-1739358.JPG Shoot them, they did that because you still have a crimp in the way. |
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Posted: 12/26/2020 1:44:30 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was able to reproduce the problem for you in pics. As the primer is going in it catches a lip of the primer crimp that was improperly chamfered. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/20201225_144848_jpg-1748152.JPG As you press harder, the high spot of the primer begins to deform from the excess pressure applied to the high side. Eventually the part that catches folds on itself and the primer is crammed into the primer pocket. What you're left with is the marks left from the excessive force applied to the side that originally caught on the crimp. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/322543/20201225_144946_jpg-1748154.JPG 
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Posted: 12/29/2020 9:22:28 PM EDT
[#25]
@dryflash3 what speed do you run your drill?
Also tonight I noticed a few primer pockets had a slight ring inside, like it was a tight pocket bring opened up by the tool. I the the handful of those in the scrap bucket. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 10:24:44 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @dryflash3 what Also tonight I noticed a few primer pockets had a slight ring inside, like it was a tight pocket bring opened up by the tool. I the the handful of those in the scrap bucket. Gonna make some guesses what you meant, and will answer that way. I use slow speed until I know the reamer is inserted plum, then go to full speed. All this taking place in 2 seconds it takes to ream the crimp away. The last 2 sentences are you still talking about the PP reamer or the Uniformer? |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 11:06:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Strikefirst Gonna make some guesses what you meant, and will answer that way. I use slow speed until I know the reamer is inserted plum, then go to full speed. All this taking place in 2 seconds it takes to ream the crimp away. The last 2 sentences are you still talking about the PP reamer or the Uniformer? @dryflash3 the pp reamer. Sorry I did also mean speed. I tried letting the drill run wide open, from a stop... the best send to work at a slow speed then choosing it once in the pocket. Ripped through 650 cases in 2 1/2 hours. Pretty happy with that. Thank you! |
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Posted: 12/30/2020 2:00:23 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @dryflash3 the pp reamer. Sorry I did also mean speed. I tried letting the drill run wide open, from a stop... the best send to work at a slow speed then choosing it once in the pocket. Ripped through 650 cases in 2 1/2 hours. Pretty happy with that. Thank you! I will add you to the list of posters I have converted to the Hornady PP reamer. |
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Posted: 12/30/2020 9:36:30 AM EDT
[#29]
My phone updated and autocorrect has gone all Bill Gates on me....
Yes, converted! |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 9:49:59 AM EDT
[#30]
I just started using one of the RCBS military crimp removers (mounted in a drill), and damn that thing sucks. Even when I get it into the primer pocket all the way (and getting it perfectly aligned so it is square on and not rubbing on one side the of the case rim), when I go to prime, the primers are only recessed by about .001 - .002" instead of more. When I turn the case around, it seems like the primer is higher on one side or another, and there is more room to press it in. But when I do so, then the primer looks distorted. This was like over 50% of the cases I prepped with the crimp remover. Primers pocket depths were like .118 - .120 range, so they shouldn't be too shallow. Using a primer pocket tool to bring the depths to a consisten .120 only helped a little. When I used my old Dillon swager as a test, I got fewer incidences of the primer being distorted.
Went back to the hated Dillon swager, its more like 10-25% distorted primers. Yes, I did clean primer pockets with a quick twist of a primer uniforming tool, just enough to get rid of the crud and clean up the pocket edges a bit. I am really starting to HATE LC brass and prepping it to get rid of the damn crimp. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 2:20:35 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am really starting to HATE LC brass and prepping it to get rid of the damn crimp. Me, too. When I buy brass, I won't buy crimped or decrimped anything, LC or otherwise. I buy commercial, uncrimped brass. Strikefirst spent 2 1/2 hours de-crimping 650 pieces of brass. That is not part of the hobby that interests me - I just buy better brass. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 4:01:52 PM EDT
[#32]
The LC stuff hasn't been that bad for me, extra step is a PITA sure, but my son brought home a bunch of Aguila 7.62 ammo with crimps that were a SERIOUS PITA. In addition the base had a raised portion where I guess the year was stamped or almost like it was part of a casting as it was REALLY raised. Even getting them into the shell shell holders was a chore. I don't know how he got them to feed in his AR-10 for shit. Anyone else run into this with Aguila brass or any other brass?
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Posted: 1/1/2021 4:13:32 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Me, too. When I buy brass, I won't buy crimped or decrimped anything, LC or otherwise. I buy commercial, uncrimped brass. Strikefirst spent 2 1/2 hours de-crimping 650 pieces of brass. That is not part of the hobby that interests me - I just buy better brass. I'm the opposite. I only buy LC brass if I can help it. Buying crimped brass is the only way you can be one hundred percent sure that the brass has not been reloaded before. It may take an hour or two per thousand rounds of extra time to cut out the crimp, but that's worth it if you ask me. Plus you get four or five reloads per brass, which further dilutes the amount of extra time required to cut the crimp over the long run. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 4:17:05 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Me, too. When I buy brass, I won't buy crimped or decrimped anything, LC or otherwise. I buy commercial, uncrimped brass. Strikefirst spent 2 1/2 hours de-crimping 650 pieces of brass. That is not part of the hobby that interests me - I just buy better brass. @trollslayer What and where do you buy then for .223/5.56? |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 5:02:01 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The LC stuff hasn't been that bad for me, extra step is a PITA sure, but my son brought home a bunch of Aguila 7.62 ammo with crimps that were a SERIOUS PITA. In addition the base had a raised portion where I guess the year was stamped or almost like it was part of a casting as it was REALLY raised. Even getting them into the shell shell holders was a chore. I don't know how he got them to feed in his AR-10 for shit. Anyone else run into this with Aguila brass or any other brass? |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 6:09:08 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Take a look at the rims, do you see any burrs? Originally when I started sorting the brass, I thought they were burrs or some sort of extractor/ejector damage but after I got them cleaned up they were small rectangular area that most had 1 or 2 numbers looking the last 2 digits of a year. They weren't real sharp either. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 10:39:33 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @trollslayer What and where do you buy then for .223/5.56? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Me, too. When I buy brass, I won't buy crimped or decrimped anything, LC or otherwise. I buy commercial, uncrimped brass. Strikefirst spent 2 1/2 hours de-crimping 650 pieces of brass. That is not part of the hobby that interests me - I just buy better brass. @trollslayer What and where do you buy then for .223/5.56? I have mostly bought Winchester brass. I have some other stuff, too, but when it comes time to buy, I look for Winchester brand. I don't know what's available right now, these are crazy times for reloaders. |
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Posted: 1/1/2021 11:08:26 PM EDT
[#38]
I went shopping for 223 Rem brass just to check on availability.
Supplies are tight! I found Nosler brass to be available. That would be uncrimped. The Winchester was all gone at the places I checked. I also found the mixed headstamp stuff, some of which would be crimped and need processing. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 11:34:20 AM EDT
[#39]
When reaming out the crimp (with lyman here), how do you know if you've taken too much short of having a disaster?
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Posted: 1/15/2021 3:49:17 PM EDT
[#40]
Double post.
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Posted: 1/15/2021 3:50:16 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When reaming out the crimp (with lyman here), how do you know if you've taken too much short of having a disaster?  Never used a Lyman, but the Hornady has a built in stop. Which is the end of the reamer, first part that goes into case. So when the end of the reamer bottoms out in the primer pocket, the cutting action is stopped. So you can't over ream, just insert reamer plumb. So insert reamer into case, turn on drill and stop when the chips stop falling out. Takes 2-3 seconds. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 3:57:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When reaming out the crimp (with lyman here), how do you know if you've taken too much short of having a disaster? It won't let you take to much, when it bottoms out the crimp has been removed. I have the lyman hornady and rcbs crimp removers, I personally like the rcbs one the best. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 3:58:56 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. Never used a Lyman, but the Hornady has a built in stop. Which is the end of the reamer, first part that goes into case. So when the end of the reamer bottoms out in the primer pocket, the cutting action is stopped. So you can't over ream, just insert reamer plumb. So insert reamer into case, turn on drill and stop when the chips stop falling out. Takes 2-3 seconds. The lyman and hornady are the same, at least the ones I have are. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 5:05:43 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just started using one of the RCBS military crimp removers (mounted in a drill), and damn that thing sucks. Even when I get it into the primer pocket all the way (and getting it perfectly aligned so it is square on and not rubbing on one side the of the case rim), when I go to prime, the primers are only recessed by about .001 - .002" instead of more. When I turn the case around, it seems like the primer is higher on one side or another, and there is more room to press it in. But when I do so, then the primer looks distorted. This was like over 50% of the cases I prepped with the crimp remover. Primers pocket depths were like .118 - .120 range, so they shouldn't be too shallow. Using a primer pocket tool to bring the depths to a consisten .120 only helped a little. When I used my old Dillon swager as a test, I got fewer incidences of the primer being distorted. Went back to the hated Dillon swager, its more like 10-25% distorted primers. Yes, I did clean primer pockets with a quick twist of a primer uniforming tool, just enough to get rid of the crud and clean up the pocket edges a bit. I am really starting to HATE LC brass and prepping it to get rid of the damn crimp. The RCBS tool levels itself on the rim of the case so you don't need to be careful keeping it aligned. Sometimes I dab a little WD40 with a q-tip on the tool head to reduce the friction when the case rim and tool meet. It also helps reduce hand fatigue when doing a lot of cases. I press the case hard to the tool to make sure it levels completely. What I like about the RCBS tool is it does not enter the primer pocket so there is no possibility of reaming the ID because the tool is not inserted properly. I mounted the RCBS tools in a Hornady prep station that's bolted to the bench top. Allows me to use 2 hands to hold the case parallel to the floor while pushing it into the spinning tool while making sure the case rim contacts all sides on the tool. I used a drill to begin with before getting the Hornady prep station. Definitely prefer the ability to hold the case in 2 hands. I used the Hornady tool before this and would notice variation in the depth of cut of the crimp removal because of some varied depths of the primer pockets. I don't see any variation in cut depth with the RCBS tool. |
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