User Panel
[#1]
I've been using parchment paper but the two trays gave me an idea to have one cooking while the other one is getting boolits set up on it.
Best idea I found here, beyond just do it, was to use gloves to set the boolits on the tray; so much quicker than using forceps! |
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[#2]
Quoted: I've been using parchment paper but the two trays gave me an idea to have one cooking while the other one is getting boolits set up on it. Best idea I found here, beyond just do it, was to use gloves to set the boolits on the tray; so much quicker than using forceps! View Quote I’ve been using XL tweezers but one friend of mine says he just gets some powder on his fingertips then pick them up and put em on the sheet. |
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[#3]
I will chime in.
I used Harbor freight for a while.... No more. Now I used Smokes from cast bullets. Night and day difference, and he lets you order by the 1/3 pound I think? Makes trying powders fun. Preheat the bullets on top of the oven for a few min so they are just a bit warm. I say they are too hot when you cant hold one in your hand for a while. Toss in a #5 container with some powder and shake and swirl to your hearts content. Toss in a wire colander and shake of the extra powder. I like to use a flipping motion to get the bullets to sift of the powder evenly. Toss on a a baking pan covered in non-stick foil. If I am feeling frisky, I will pull out a pair of needle nose plyers and stand them all up separated on the pan. But I only do that for special boolits. Bake at 400 degrees for 20 min. Pull out of the oven, size to size. Load and shoot. Its about the easiest thing in reloading. I usually do it when I am trying to focus on the more tedious and time consuming parts of reloading like sizing and trimming brass, or sorting brass or bullets. *Ding* Bullets are done! |
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[#4]
Quoted: SIZING Got to size the 11 bullets from the second batch and 3 questionable ones from the failed first batch. Setup: - RCBS Rock Chucker with RCBS Case Kicker - converted to use Hornady Lock N Load die bushings - Lee .452" sizing kit https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc14_jpg-1634489.JPG The 11 bullets from the second batch, I sprayed them with Dillon spray lube before sizing. I also let these bullets air cool vs quenching, so should be softer and size more easily. They did. You can see the sizing marks: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc15_jpg-1634493.JPG Here's the 3 dubious ones from first batch. They're mucked up, most likely out of round to begin with https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc16_jpg-1634494.JPG One of the bullets from the second batch had some bare metal showing on the bands, not enough to worry about. It was that way before sizing https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc17_jpg-1634497.JPG Pulled out my trusted Dillon calipers to measure the bullets https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc18_jpg-1634500.JPG View Quote |
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[#5]
Quoted: I’ve been using XL tweezers but one friend of mine says he just gets some powder on his fingertips then pick them up and put em on the sheet. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I've been using parchment paper but the two trays gave me an idea to have one cooking while the other one is getting boolits set up on it. Best idea I found here, beyond just do it, was to use gloves to set the boolits on the tray; so much quicker than using forceps! I’ve been using XL tweezers but one friend of mine says he just gets some powder on his fingertips then pick them up and put em on the sheet. Great idea Bashby, I'll go with that next time. The latex gloves I have are xl so the tips are floppy! |
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[#6]
Update
I got the cheapie $15 toaster oven to work by turning the temp control knob all the way to max, then all the way to min then just under 300F, then the grill thermometer shows around 390F or so. Didn't make the dummy rounds yet, but went big on actual powder coating. Here's what I've done so far Attached File Remember that bucket of un coated bullets from page 1? Getting close to empty Attached File I don't stand the bullets up, probably need to, every one has a bare spot from either where it laid on it's side on the metal tray or where another bullet stuck to it Speaking of stuck bullets, some are impossible to separate by hand, discovered a gentle whack with a plastic tipped hammer does the job, if a gentle whack doesn't work use a harder whack. This is on an old scrap piece of carpet on the concrete floor of the garage Pre-whacked, classic butt to side paint stuck: Attached File Whacked, unstuck! Attached File |
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[#7]
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[#8]
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[#10]
MASS SIZING
I completed powder coating all the projectiles I had. Experimented using parchment paper. It's useful because no paint will be stuck to it in same way the bare wire tray does leaving a exposed lead spot on the bullet. The downside is gotta be careful. I dumped some bullets in a tray with parchment paper and didn't have all the loose powder sifted. So this left random layers of powder coating on the parchment which pooled and stuck to the bullets. All Coated Attached File My sizing setup My Rock Chucker is mounted on a board so it can be clamped on a table. I have a table on back deck I like to use sometimes. Weather was great. Unsized bullets on the left. Sized on the right. I experimented sizing with and without additional spray lube. Dryflash is right, no lube is needed. But, it did reduce sizing effort a bit so I used it anway Attached File The phuckups 2 were rejected as mold rejects, not fully filled out. 2 more rejected from bad tool marks using pliers to try to remove two stuck bullets The rest were cause dumping loose powder coating on the parchment paper, causing a pool for the bullet to lay in Attached File The good ones Did some more after this pic, about 1/3 of the bullet stash is all sized Attached File |
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[#11]
Dummy Rounds
I undid the 550B in 9mm mode and did the 45ACP conversion this morning. Involved shellplate, primer feed tube, primer bar, toolhead, swapping a powder measure. Dies have lock rings so their settings don't change. So this tool head was last used for 230gr RN so my first dummy round used that setting. It fit the case gage Attached File Attached File Pulled Bullet check Pulled a bullet using my kinetic bullet puller to see if I was shaving any of the coating while seating which meant I'd have to increase my case mouth belling. On the 550B this involves loosening the powder measure, turning the powder die, dealing with a lock ring, etc. Besides the bullet being ugly, no powder coating was shaved Attached File |
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[#12]
Lee APP with a nose down feeder... makes life super easy
Sizing powder coated boolits with the Lee APP...fast. |
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[#14]
Quoted: Lee APP with a nose down feeder... makes life super easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8tJx9JCrcU View Quote Neat. ETA: I mounted my Lyman press upside down. Probably going to do a little more to make it more better. So far I like it. Here’s a thread at Castboolits about it. |
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[#15]
CHAMBER AND EXTRACTION TESTING
Yeah they fit the case gage which is good but case gages don't have rifling, time to test with a real gun. In this case a Colt Commander I loaded a mag, slapped into the gun, then rack the slide. To my surprise it chambered OK, gun was in battery. Then I tried to pull the slide back to eject the chambered round and then to load a new one from the mag. Well I couldn't pull the slide back, the gun was locked up. Did a modified "Glock Grip" using the right hand to squeeze the slide and grip together and it got unlocked. This is why you use dummy rounds, a locked up gun with live ammo is dangerous. So I tweaked the seating depth just a hair on on all 9 test rounds. Loaded up a mag and checked if I could cycle them. Success! Yep, these bullets need to be seated a bit lower. Colt Commander Passed Attached File Then I tested with some other 45's, all passed Sig 220 PASSED This is a 80's Sig 220 made in West Germany Attached File Gen 2 Glock 21 with KKM Barrel PASSED Attached File Gen 3 Glock 21 (non SF) with Factory Barrel PASSED Attached File Next up will be the smash test, sort of late now but better than never |
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[#16]
HAMMER TIME
The hammer test is a rite of passage of sorts, gotta smash at least one bullet. I used one of the rejects. Used a mini-sledge and a AR500 plate and smacked it like a red-headed stepchild Attached File Attached File Success! Next logical step is to make some live test loads. Toying with using Red Dot or X-700 since I have a lot of it with intent to use it in shotshells. Not sure how these powders will measure I'll just drop some charges and weigh them for consistency. The powder measure will be a Dillon powder measure on the 550B. If I can get consistent charge weights I'll go with that powder, whichever one it ends up being. If not then I'll use AA#5 or #7, whichever one works |
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[#17]
Glad you found what would chamber and what wouldn't and fixed it.
Hammer test good. What are you going to load with A-5 or A-7? |
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[#18]
Quoted: Glad you found what would chamber and what wouldn't and fixed it. Hammer test good. What are you going to load with A-5 or A-7? View Quote I load almost all my pistol loads with AA5 or AA7. Currently use AA5 for 9mm and AA7 for 40SW for example. So if I can get Red Dot or 700-X to work for the 45ACP leaves more powder for the other calibers. Need to use that stuff up |
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[#19]
That hammer design is one of my favorite designs.
Got mad a few years ago and ordered 5 or 6 hammers from Vaughn and one of them was that drilling hammer. My favorite one out of the bunch. I messed up loading some coated 9mm projectiles a few months back and only have a few pistolas that I can shoot them in. Purchased bullets. I still use the freight store red stuff for coating on my hand cast. |
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[#20]
Quoted: That hammer design is one of my favorite designs. Got mad a few years ago and ordered 5 or 6 hammers from Vaughn and one of them was that drilling hammer. My favorite one out of the bunch. View Quote Who would have thunk a big hammer is needed for reloading ? My tasks ahead of me: more sizing, test loads, then mass production mode. After that I have the complete cycle again 300 lbs of lead: cast -> coat -> size -> load. Might do half the lead for more 45ACP the other half for 9mm. I have two 9mm six cavity molds from LEE: 125 gr Round Nose and the 125 gr Truncated Cone |
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[#21]
Quoted: After that I have the complete cycle again 300 lbs of lead: cast -> coat -> size -> load. Might do half the lead for more 45ACP the other half for 9mm. I have two 9mm six cavity molds from LEE: 125 gr Round Nose and the 125 gr Truncated Cone View Quote For 45 ACP I went with a Lee 230 gr TC, but had to go with the tumble lube design as they didn't make it in a lube grove bullet. PC's just fine. |
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[#22]
TEST LOADS
I have a shitload of Red Dot and consensus is it's also great for 45ACP so I went to Alliant's site and found this: Attached File So what I do is write up a load sheet and print it out. I'll take this sheet to the range along with a pen to record comments. Max is either 5.1 or 5.3 grains. Decided to do a spread of 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, and 5.2 gr Concerned about the consistency of drop weight with the flake powder and my old style Dillon powder measure which has return springs instead of that double lever contraption. To my surprise getting +/- .1 gr drop charges, and occasional +/- .2 gr. Now if I end up using my max load of 5.2 gr this is sort of risky, so hoping the 4.8 or 5.0 gr charges work OK. Here's my spec sheet Attached File Here's my test loads, in case I drop the box and all the rounds go every which way, I marked them. The more stripes on a case means it has more powder. Made 8 of each, enough for a 1911 mag. Originally planned 10 but changed my mind but not the spec sheet Attached File Plan to test them Saturday or Sunday. Then I'll settle on a charge and go into mass production mode. The spec sheet goes in a file folder along with all my other spec sheets |
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[#23]
Red Dot is my new favorite powder for 32 Auto and 380.
I will be trying it in 45 ACP. Don't know if I will like it better than True Blue. But it did beat True blue in 32 Auto and 380. |
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[#24]
LOAD TESTING
Early this afternoon drove to the range, had it all to myself since it's closed normal hours because of covid, so it's off hours only. Anyway, the test gun was my Colt Combat Commander Attached File Practiced with some regular reloads to warm up and make sure the firearm was functioning so if I get a malfunction during shooting the test loads I can blame the ammo and not the gun Then blasted a mag each of the 4 different powder loads. No jams on any shot, no failure to eject, every test load worked perfectly. I shot 4.6gr at the top, then at 9:00 o'clock position 4.8, then 5.0, then 5.2 Attached File Here's my comments Attached File Here's the primers, everything looks fine even the 5.2 gr loads Attached File Decision time If you toss out the flyer for the 5.0 gr group then the 4.8, 5.0, and 5.2 gr loads are equal in accuracy. I was shooting off hand, no rest I take the groups with a grain of salt anyway. Like I said all the loads functioned fine. I'll go with the 5.0 gr load, nice round number, gives me a safety factor if my powder charge creeps up or I get a sporadic .2 gr over charge. |
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[#25]
Quoted: LOAD TESTING Early this afternoon drove to the range, had it all to myself since it's closed normal hours because of covid, so it's off hours only. Anyway, the test gun was my Colt Combat Commander https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pctest1_jpg-1663280.JPG Practiced with some regular reloads to warm up and make sure the firearm was functioning so if I get a malfunction during shooting the test loads I can blame the ammo and not the gun Then blasted a mag each of the 4 different powder loads. No jams on any shot, no failure to eject, every test load worked perfectly. I shot 4.6gr at the top, then at 9:00 o'clock position 4.8, then 5.0, then 5.2 https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pctest2_jpg-1663285.JPG Here's my comments https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pctest3_jpg-1663286.JPG Here's the primers, everything looks fine even the 5.2 gr loads https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pctest4_jpg-1663288.JPG Decision time If you toss out the flyer for the 5.0 gr group then the 4.8, 5.0, and 5.2 gr loads are equal in accuracy. I was shooting off hand, no rest I take the groups with a grain of salt anyway. Like I said all the loads functioned fine. I'll go with the 5.0 gr load, nice round number, gives me a safety factor if my powder charge creeps up or I get a sporadic .2 gr over charge. View Quote |
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[#26]
I've tried Harbor Freight matte black..... not good!!!! At least for me... it did not stick at all.
***UPDATE*** Eastwood light Ford blue workeked GREAT! Its the first powder I've had luck with. |
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[#27]
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[#28]
PRODUCTION
So got the load settled, test firing passed, etc. Time to crank out some rounds. Set the Dillon powder measure to drop 5.0 gr, random spot checks showing it dropping 4.9 and 5.0 about equally, good enough for me. After making about 30 rounds I checked them in a case gage, all passed. Then I did the klunk test with a Glock Gen 2 barrel and my Sig 220 barrel. About 80% would go Klunk, the rest needed a nudge. So I turned the seater die down about 1/8th of a turn and solved that problem. Attached File The powder coat is Ford Light Blue, I think it could pass for Dillon Blue Attached File These damned things got me, small primer pockets for 45ACP. I'm just weeding them out now and they'll go into my scrap bucket Attached File Going to experiment more with the taper crimp, seems like I have to have a heavy one for the rounds to chamber, I know I want as less crimp as possible, enough to remove the case mouth belling, but for my gage seems to require a bit more than that Remember the ones sized with just Alox on page 1? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59119/45acp1_jpg-1609215.JPG Coated them again with Liquid Alox and will load tomorrow, allowing the Alox to cure I'll start cranking on all the bullets I powder coated, then it'll be time to cast some more projectiles, this will be my winter project, by spring hoping to have most of my lead used up. Will make the bulk 45ACP, then a couple pots full for 45LC, then a couple thousand 9mm |
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[#29]
OST. I've got hundreds of pounds of lead waiting to be cast into bullets.
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[#30]
Quoted: OST. I've got hundreds of pounds of lead waiting to be cast into bullets. View Quote Do et Hopefully I set a good example using a case gage, dummy loads, test loads Used up about 1/2 the bag of powder, it'll be a while before I cast again, it's a 3-4 hour or more process once I get going, pretty much eats up a whole day but love all the shiny bullets in the end |
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[#31]
Quoted: Do et Hopefully I set a good example using a case gage, dummy loads, test loads Used up about 1/2 the bag of powder, it'll be a while before I cast again, it's a 3-4 hour or more process once I get going, pretty much eats up a whole day but love all the shiny bullets in the end View Quote I ordered some Ford blue Eastwood powder yesterday, and drug out my old camp stove I use to cast bullets, only to realize it’s not working properly. Oh well, I’ll have it going by the time the powder comes in. |
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[#32]
FUN TIME
This thread has run it's course but I'll finish up with range results. I loaded up all the Aloxed coated bullets shown on the first page and shot 'em. Then loaded up 5 mags with the powder coated bullets, but shot 4 before thinking to take a picture Attached File Shot at some steel Attached File Managed to find a few projectile's, I think this is the base end, sort of see where a sprue's been cut. The ridge is probably the grease groove. These remnants are hard, no longer soft mallable lead Attached File Had about 8 mags of leftover lead bullets from inventory, trying to use them all up so I don't have 4 or 5 different types of loads laying around. Shot 20 eight round mags total. Not a single malfunction, all went bang, case ejected, gun cycled. Observations: 1. Liquid Alox coated bullets are smokey just like traditionally lube bullets 2. powder coated bullet don't dirty the barrel all that much, minimal. Still some grunge from the burnt powder, but not a black mess like the traditionally lubed lead bullets do. 3. same for the feed ramp 4. the powder coated bullets definitely felt like it had more recoil. Used the same projectile for the alox coated bullets as the powder coated ones, same powder charge, etc 5. AR500 steel still defeats powder coated bullets 6. Shooting steel rocks |
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[#33]
Quoted: FUN TIME This thread has run it's course but I'll finish up with range results. I loaded up all the Aloxed coated bullets shown on the first page and shot 'em. Then loaded up 5 mags with the powder coated bullets, but shot 4 before thinking to take a picture https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc2_jpg-1675687.JPG Shot at some steel https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc3_jpg-1675689.JPG Managed to find a few projectile's, I think this is the base end, sort of see where a sprue's been cut. The ridge is probably the grease groove. These remnants are hard, no longer soft mallable lead https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc1_jpg-1675691.JPG Had about 8 mags of leftover lead bullets from inventory, trying to use them all up so I don't have 4 or 5 different types of loads laying around. Shot 20 eight round mags total. Not a single malfunction, all went bang, case ejected, gun cycled. Observations: 1. Liquid Alox coated bullets are smokey just like traditionally lube bullets 2. powder coated bullet don't dirty the barrel all that much, minimal. Still some grunge from the burnt powder, but not a black mess like the traditionally lubed lead bullets do. 3. same for the feed ramp 4. the powder coated bullets definitely felt like it had more recoil. Used the same projectile for the alox coated bullets as the powder coated ones, same powder charge, etc 5. AR500 steel still defeats powder coated bullets 6. Shooting steel rocks View Quote How mine look. I will never go back to lubed bullets, the PC are so much cleaner to load, shoot, and easier to clean firearm. Shooting steel is fun. |
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[#34]
If anyone loads a .357 Mag with coated bullets, what's your favorite powder? My go-to for jacketed bullets in .357 in W296, but I'm almost out. I have a pound of IMR 4227, and I've found some H110 also.
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[#36]
Quoted: I'm a True Blue guy, so I had to try it in this caliber. You can't get the velocity of H-110, but you can get a decent shooting, accurate load. About 80% of full power. https://i.imgur.com/JdU7d2Ol.jpg I have settled on 9.0 grs True Blue and a cast PC 158 gr RFN. Round flat nose, Lee 6 gang mold. Standard primer. The round sitting on the rifle. This feeds great in the Marlin. SWC's not so much. For full power load with 158 gr PC, I use max charges of H-110, magnum primer and a firm crimp. So same load as a 158 gr JHP. In pistols I have found that jacketed bullet data to work well with my home cast PS bullets. In 32 ACP, 380, 7.62x25, 32 Mag, 357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP. https://i.imgur.com/bDKaZKhl.jpg Then if you want more, a 200 gr PC and H-110 get you attention. Bullet meant for 35 Remington, so it seats a little deep. View Quote Awesome, thanks! I’ve got a few pounds of H110 on the way, plus a Lyman 158 grain “cowboy” mould coming too. |
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[#37]
Quoted: PRODUCTION So got the load settled, test firing passed, etc. Time to crank out some rounds. Set the Dillon powder measure to drop 5.0 gr, random spot checks showing it dropping 4.9 and 5.0 about equally, good enough for me. After making about 30 rounds I checked them in a case gage, all passed. Then I did the klunk test with a Glock Gen 2 barrel and my Sig 220 barrel. About 80% would go Klunk, the rest needed a nudge. So I turned the seater die down about 1/8th of a turn and solved that problem. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc24_jpg-1665164.JPG The powder coat is Ford Light Blue, I think it could pass for Dillon Blue https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc25_jpg-1665166.JPG These damned things got me, small primer pockets for 45ACP. I'm just weeding them out now and they'll go into my scrap bucket https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/pc26_jpg-1665167.JPG Going to experiment more with the taper crimp, seems like I have to have a heavy one for the rounds to chamber, I know I want as less crimp as possible, enough to remove the case mouth belling, but for my gage seems to require a bit more than that Remember the ones sized with just Alox on page 1? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/59119/45acp1_jpg-1609215.JPG Coated them again with Liquid Alox and will load tomorrow, allowing the Alox to cure I'll start cranking on all the bullets I powder coated, then it'll be time to cast some more projectiles, this will be my winter project, by spring hoping to have most of my lead used up. Will make the bulk 45ACP, then a couple pots full for 45LC, then a couple thousand 9mm View Quote As for the small primer cases I keep them until I get a hundred or so, load them up a use them when at the range or in the snow when picking them up would be a PIA. |
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[#38]
Quoted: As for the small primer cases I keep them until I get a hundred or so, load them up a use them when at the range or in the snow when picking them up would be a PIA. View Quote That's a thought, I'm hard wired not to waste good brass any more, and reloading them separately is doable if I catch them before they make it into the case feeder (I switched to my 650). Now if one gets through it causes havoc. My Dillon 45 ACP sizing die has larger diameter decapping pin and I can muscle my way using the leverage of the press to decap them which enlarges the flashhole, but then I can't seat a small primer with them unless I do it with a hand priming tool on the side. Now I could decap them on a single stage with a universal decapping die, but the cases would have to be sized with, you guess it my Dillon 45ACP sizing die, this time with the decapping pin removed. Another option would be to swap the decapping rod from a Dillon 9mm sizing die into the 45ACP sizing die. Then they would have to fed one at a time on my 650 at the primer seating/powder drop station after being primed, which would cause large pistol primers to go down the runaway primer ramp. I'm not set up to load pistol on a single stage. Only way I have to drop powder is with a Dillon powder measure. Loading small primed 45ACP cases is feasible, but a giant hassle with my setup |
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[#40]
Quoted: My first attempt. I used Eastwood Ford light blue powder. I was gonna buy a cheap $15 oven, but the I read all the comments about getting a convection oven so I spent $45 on an Oster brand convection oven at Wal Mart. I'm impatient so that's why I bought a new one instead of scrounging around to find a cheap used one. The bullets I used I had cast about 18 years ago, and I never liked the look of them so they've been sitting in the back of my cabinet ever since. They had sort of a rough finish, so maybe that's why the coating looks like it does, I don't know. I checked the oven's temperature with an oven thermometer, and it was spot on. I left them in for 20 minutes at 400 degrees. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/n1rzvcmz-1682434.jpg I used parchment paper that was supposed to be non-stick and safe up to 400 degrees. Well it was neither. After ten minutes it started to turn brown and I could smell it, so I turned it down to 375. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/7bcoguet-1682436.jpg One good whack with a 4# shop hammer flattened this bullet. The coating isn't flaking off the sides, but it looks like the concrete floor scraped some off when I hit the bullet with the hammer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/z5dkrnem-1682435.jpg View Quote First time I used my oven not knowing the temp was WAY off, the bullets melted as shown in one of my posts and my parchment paper turned brown with some black areas and I smelt a burning smell I was too embarrassed to admit that |
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[#41]
Quoted: My first attempt. I used Eastwood Ford light blue powder. I was gonna buy a cheap $15 oven, but the I read all the comments about getting a convection oven so I spent $45 on an Oster brand convection oven at Wal Mart. I'm impatient so that's why I bought a new one instead of scrounging around to find a cheap used one. The bullets I used I had cast about 18 years ago, and I never liked the look of them so they've been sitting in the back of my cabinet ever since. They had sort of a rough finish, so maybe that's why the coating looks like it does, I don't know. I checked the oven's temperature with an oven thermometer, and it was spot on. I left them in for 20 minutes at 400 degrees. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/n1rzvcmz-1682434.jpg I used parchment paper that was supposed to be non-stick and safe up to 400 degrees. Well it was neither. After ten minutes it started to turn brown and I could smell it, so I turned it down to 375. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/7bcoguet-1682436.jpg One good whack with a 4# shop hammer flattened this bullet. The coating isn't flaking off the sides, but it looks like the concrete floor scraped some off when I hit the bullet with the hammer. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/z5dkrnem-1682435.jpg View Quote I only get the parchment paper sticking to the bottom of the bullet after 5-6 bakes. Time to switch to new. But even better are the silicone baking sheets, truly non stick. |
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[#42]
Quoted: Bullets look good. I only get the parchment paper sticking to the bottom of the bullet after 5-6 bakes. Time to switch to new. But even better are the silicone baking sheets, truly non stick. View Quote I was telling my wife about my new found venture and trying my best to remember what kind of sheets you used. I'm gonna have to look into that. I also thought of making a couple baskets because my oven is big enough for two. |
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[#44]
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[#45]
Quoted: Newly cast bullets took the PC very well. I cast these yesterday and coated them as soon as they were cool. Lyman #358311. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41398/oeeafdc3-1688417.jpg I don't know what I enjoy most, casting them or coating them. Not to mention shooting them, which I haven't done yet! View Quote With old bullets, I always had to do 2 coats. Didn't look great, but shot fine. Bullets where you removed the lube fall into this category. |
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[#46]
You don't have to lube the bullets to size them, but it can make a difference. I use the lanolin and alcohol mix. i give it a couple lite sprays and toss them around in the bucket. Then size them. The effect is way less force to size. If you are only sizing down 0.001"-0.002" then don't bother. Anything more and you should. Or you need to size down in 2 steps. 1st pass should be by the same I said above then to final size.
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[#48]
Quoted: Been casting with my new 357mag Keith NOE mold 360-176-swc After powder coating, I was running them thru the LEE 358 bullet sizer, 11BHN hardness with ease. then I switched to some I added tin and ROTOMETALS SUPERHARD, I thought I was gonna rip the press off my bench. I sprayed a light amount of home-brew dillon style case lube, and it went much easier. Loading them up with 231, Unique, and 2400 now. https://i.imgur.com/9Ybxl8R.jpg https://i.imgur.com/NyYQStU.jpg wet from quench https://i.imgur.com/2Vzhuqx.jpg View Quote Attached File |
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[#49]
Ran out of projectiles
Been slacking lately with the holidays and but finally used up the all the projectiles. Every round has been plunk tested and wobble tested for high primers. Not sure how many I made, has to be 3000+ This was a fun project, not just the powder coating part, the load workup and testing too. I started on the 550B but switched to using the 650. The 550B was still set up for 45ACP and was useful to decap live primers from cases that failed the plunk test and I had bullets pulled. Along the way added an index and case insert slide cam bearing to the 650, next goody will be one of those M die power funnels. I broke my RCBS bullet puller and got a new Hornady and National Metallic as replacements. While the press is set up for 45ACP I'll take advantage of it and use it to just deprime 45ACP cases for future wet tumbling. Weird thing about loading 45ACP, now when I pick up a 9mm case it seems like its a 22LR or something Attached File Attached File |
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[#50]
Sweet.
I just did about 40lbs of bullets. Lee 125gr, Lee tc 124 tl and 230 45 tl which actually come out to 240 which are for my 45clot anyway. Freight store red. I have but a rcbs ammo master aka the run out machine. But it does pistol ammo ok. Some day ima buy a super 1050. Looks to me like I need to get some better powder coat stuff like what you have there. |
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