So, I bought a pistol upper to flush out a build last fall, and everything has been great with it. I got it from PRO2A Tactical along with the blade style brace. It's 7.5", 1/7 twist, with a KAK flash can.

While waiting on my YHM Nitro N20 to be released from jail, I bought a YHM Turbo T2 with the intention of it going on this pistol exclusively.

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On the Silencer Shop website it lists the minimum barrel length for the Turbo as N/A so I thought it would be fine, but looking around more it turns out to be 10.5". The second obstacle is the the rail on my upper has an ID of 1.3", and the Turbo is 1.56" OD.

I can handle getting another upper, but I want to keep the same look of having the can inside the rail, or possibly still having the slim rail (OD is 1.5") and having the can mount flush when installed.

What options do I have for achieving this? Is there someone who sells either option as is, or would I need to buy what parts I want and assemble?

Please disregard the messy desk, I was also making Christmas presents at the time. Also, here's a clearer picture before I moved the light to 6 o'clock and added the MOE grip.

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I'm not sure about prebuilt uppers, but midwest industries makes a suppressor series of handguards for tucking cans https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/AR15-SP-Handguard-M-Lok-s/329.htm

That's good to know, I'll check them out!

I've built several lowers but never an upper. Would one of those fit on the upper I've got or would the pic rail be offset?

Aero has a number of handguards made for suppressors as well.
Also, just google "ar15 handguard wide enough for a suppressor" for a variety of ideas.

10.5" barrel, 10" hand guard, Turbo K with kurz adapter.

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I wouldn't tuck a can with a removable adapter. If the can comes loose of it you will have to remove the hand guard to get the adapter off.  I suppose you could rock set it together.

This right here is what I'm looking for! It looks fantastic, almost seamless.

I also hadn't considered the possibility of parts coming loose inside the rail, I'm definitely going this route now.

I love this place. Thanks for all the responses!

My 10.3 barrel with a 2a Armament rail that measures exactly 9.6 inches.  It still has about a half inch gap.  I prefer .75 minimum if possible as  I don't like to cut it too close but each to his or her own. I had a 10.5 barrel before the 10.3 so I knew I was still good to go.

Be very cautious when trying to get that gap almost seamless.  The amount of shims you may or may not have to use could make or break you.  Also not all companies list the actual rail length.  Some may claim 7 inches generically in all their marketing only for you to find out its actually 7.25

2A Armament, SLR, Aero, YHM and Midwest Industries are verified to list exactly their rail lengths.  If they say 12.6 they mean 12.6.  Google for seamless rail gap.  There are threads out there where some folks have gotten burned on this very issue.  

Ever since YHM did their integral uppers with that diamond mlok rail of theirs I've been tempted to swap this 2a rail out for one of those and go with the tucked look since a majority of the time I keep this Turbo K on the 10.3.  If you do remove the can unless you have a blast shield or another can to throw in there do not attempt to shoot a muzzle that is inset like that.  Bad things can happen to the rail and more importantly your digits.  If its a dedicated can probably very rare your going to have an exposed muzzle inset like that but if your bouncing that can around alot it might not be wise to tuck your can.   By getting it as close to seamless as possible you can still have enough of the muzzle device protruding enough that if you had to fire your upper un suppressed its still a safe proposition.  A hand stop of some sort is probably wise especially on a super short setup so your hand doesn't get too far forward.  Nothing sucks worse than a trip to the ER. Even with the can on there a handstop is still wise. Be advised those damn things heat up really fast.  Great way to burn yourself.  You might wind up disliking tucking in your can especially if your the type to hold the hanguard out at the very extreme end of it. Gloves are another good precaution.

Finally YHM has said in the past 10.3 is good to go but anything shorter they will not honor any warranty if they are aware of it being that short.  I think they realize the standard mk18 length is 10.3 and lots of guys like to run them.  I know folks have run them on shorter stuff like the 7.5 etc... but do it at your own risk.  Best of luck.

If a front adjustable gas block is ever used then tucked or gap less set up is even less practical considering tool access. Having a little gap warns your fingers they’ve strayed too far forward.  Using a suppressor cover it’s also nice to be able to tighten the cover behind the rear edge of the can, even a 1/4” gap is practical for that.

Cheapest way to solve your problem with suppressor mounting could be a longer barrel.  Those lengths are more predictable than nominal handguard designations.