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Perst-3 lasers. (Page 13 of 13)
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Link Posted: 8/3/2019 9:19:33 AM EDT
Hopefully they come out with an updated PERST-3 at some point that takes the 18650 battery with the rear access like the Perst-2.
Link Posted: 8/3/2019 10:12:33 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Daggertt:
Hopefully they come out with an updated PERST-3 at some point that takes the 18650 battery with the rear access like the Perst-2.
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+1
Link Posted: 8/3/2019 11:42:51 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By smeeg:
Good tip I just checked those out
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Originally Posted By smeeg:
Originally Posted By SGT-Fish:
get some slices and heat shrink and you'll be good to go. very cool.

I recommend the environmental splices that are a clear covered tube with a ring of solder on the inside. Put the wires in and put a heat gun to it. the heat shrink tube closes around them and then the ring of solder melts into the wires. The good ones have an extra glue like material at each end of the tube that melts to seal the whole splice.

They are like a buck a piece at summit racing but the Chinese ones work just as good and are much much cheaper. make sure you slide a piece of large black heat shrink tubing over the whole thing for a professional look and extra strength
Good tip I just checked those out
That's the same method I use on my ghetto-spliced switches. They've held up nearly 2 years, now, though I haven't been out using them as much as I'd like.
Link Posted: 8/4/2019 8:20:20 PM EDT
Hey how are you guys zeroing these things? I want to do a constant off set but no clue how to achieve that exactly.
Link Posted: 8/4/2019 11:32:12 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Shinnne:
Hey how are you guys zeroing these things? I want to do a constant off set but no clue how to achieve that exactly.
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There are a couple ways to zero it, depending on your usage. Zero it to where it should work good enough out to 300m, or zero it to where itll work good at point blank ranges. The first you’ll want to set it to the grouping, the latter you’ll want to measure the distance from the aperture to the bore, and set the impact grouping that far from the laser impact zone.

method one
From Steiner on zeroing the D2 for 25m/300m range:
“3.5.b Zeroing on a 25 Meter Range 2
This procedure is used to zero the DBAL-D . Each adjuster click moves the strike point by 1 cm on the M16A2/M16A4 25 meter zeroing target. Refer to Figure 3-12 and Figure 3-13.
1. On a 25 meter zeroing target, mark the designated strike point and designated 4 cm/6 cm strike zone based on the weapon you are using.
2. Mount the target on an “E” silhouette or other suitable surface at 25m.
3. Set the adjusters to their factory neutral position as described in Paragraph 3.5.
4. Activate the aiming laser (visible pointer or IR pointer) to be zeroed by rotating the Activation Mode Selector Switch to the desired position. Press the Integrated Momentary Activation Switch or the Remote Cable Switch twice in rapid succession to activate the laser continuously. When aligning the IR pointer, leave the IR LED ILLUM Exit Port Cover in place. Aim center mass of the target until the aiming laser disappears through the 4 cm cut out.
5. Fire a 3-round shot group and note the center of the shot group relative to the designated strike zone.
6. Adjust the aiming beam adjusters to move the center of the shot group to the designated strike zone.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the shot group falls within the strike zone.
8. When firing the M16, M4 series series of weapons, when 5 out of 6 consecutive rounds are in the designated 4cm strike zone you are zeroed.”

I dont think this would be too different from a Perst laser. You have to remember that the bullet is going to drop 9.8m/s/s, and the laser is something that will be an angular constant, probably around 3MoA, so you can only truly zero it out to so many places. A 25m/300m zero is the most practical. Get the grouping to be even with the laser at 25m, and it should still be impacting just inside the beam at 300m, when the beam is about 9”-12” across, being 3-4 MoA. At least on any standard sized AR15 handguard. Have the impact zone on the low side for a closer-in zero, high side for a further-out zero, but at 300, the laser is big enough itll not really matter, and youre practically estimating where in the beam its going to hit. Don’t forget about the slight sideways offset depending on your laser module.

method two
My MP5 has a Perst-1 on the bottom rail. I measured the distance between the laser and the bore, and have the rifle hitting that much higher at 25m. At 75m its [i]probably[/] right on, which is all i care for, because it isnt something i ever plan on shooting over 100m. I don’t think this method would work all too well if your laser is mounted on the top, because bullet drop.
1. Measure the distance from the bore to the laser emitter
2. On a 10m range, fire a 3 shot group at the target, measure the impact zone in relation to the beam
3. Adjust the aiming beam to move the center of the shot group to be the desired distance from the beam
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the impact of the projectiles is the measured distance away from the laser beam that the bore is from the laser emitter
5. Confirm this zero at 25m and 100m

Hope this helps
Link Posted: 8/5/2019 2:48:44 AM EDT
I get that's how you zero a steiner, I see that the in the TELLURIC GROUP targets that each laser zero is at a different point. I'm wondering where the sweet spot for the Perst is.
Link Posted: 8/5/2019 8:15:37 AM EDT
Mount to rifle, measure offset, profit
Link Posted: 8/5/2019 8:27:14 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Shinnne:
I get that's how you zero a steiner, I see that the in the TELLURIC GROUP targets that each laser zero is at a different point. I'm wondering where the sweet spot for the Perst is.
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I think you're way overthinking this. It's just a laser.

I usually zero the windage with my regular optic as far as I can see or at least as far as I intend to shoot. Zero elevation at 150-200. Hundreds of dead pigs to show for it.

You can play with ballistic programs with your height over bore to find what distance gives you the best pbr zero.
Link Posted: 8/5/2019 8:28:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2019 11:11:46 AM EDT by mickdonaldson]
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Originally Posted By Shinnne:
Hey how are you guys zeroing these things? I want to do a constant off set but no clue how to achieve that exactly.
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There's a recent zeroing thread around that has a lot of good info. I changed to a method described in there, as it just made a metric ton of sense, combined with almost zero involved in the process:

Find a place that has something at an absurd range you will never shoot at... Place optic aiming point on 'target'... Adjust LASER to superimpose over/under Dot/Reticle. At any range, you will never be off more than the physical measurement between diode and optic aiming point (at muzzle obviously being the most difference) - you only account for hold-over, just like with optic.

If wanted, you could get extremely anal/precise by using an actual silhouette target, a spotting scope, and a rest of some time that keeps the rifle locked on target.

It's so simple I thank the guy that posted it for us 'new to LASER' peeps.

Edit: It was MunnyShot ^^^
Link Posted: 8/5/2019 8:59:40 PM EDT
All my optics are a 50/200 and since I will likely never shoot over 200 except on my static range I just put my laser on my optic reticule on a known 200 yard target.

So far, no paper target has evaded me ;)
Link Posted: 8/6/2019 4:02:51 PM EDT
Do you guys know what these screws are for? I’m assuming for the switch or is it for something else.

https://imgur.com/a/7sgEGPN
Link Posted: 8/6/2019 4:32:20 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By newguy2k3:

I think you're way overthinking this. It's just a laser.

I usually zero the windage with my regular optic as far as I can see or at least as far as I intend to shoot. Zero elevation at 150-200. Hundreds of dead pigs to show for it.

You can play with ballistic programs with your height over bore to find what distance gives you the best pbr zero.
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+1
Link Posted: 8/6/2019 5:01:50 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Shinnne:
Do you guys know what these screws are for? I’m assuming for the switch or is it for something else.

https://imgur.com/a/7sgEGPN
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@Shinnne

fixed it for you. now that you mention it, i was wondering the same thing

Link Posted: 8/6/2019 8:02:20 PM EDT
replacement battery compartment screws.
Link Posted: 8/9/2019 7:33:28 AM EDT
Anyone explain how best to zero the Illuminator with this set screw set up?
Link Posted: 8/9/2019 7:58:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/9/2019 10:00:28 AM EDT by alemonkey]
Damn. Tried to order a Perst 4 last night, my card apparently no longer allows transactions with Russia. I guess I'll have to call them and see if they'll let it go through.

ETA: got it. Russian collusion in process!
Link Posted: 8/9/2019 12:04:00 PM EDT
Anyone have an update when the Perst 3 might receive a housing revision to a screw cap?

It'll just grind my gears to have the 4/2 with a crispy smooth screw cap but the 3 rocking the horrible screwed down plate.
Link Posted: 8/10/2019 11:04:25 PM EDT
Got an email from Ivan, Perst 4 shipped today. I opted for standard shipping.

My last one (Perst 1) took about 6 weeks total, with most of that spent sitting at customs in New York.
Link Posted: 8/10/2019 11:06:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/10/2019 11:06:54 PM EDT by vym]
I recently purchased a perst-3 from the ebay store named "zenitco". Tonight I tried to get a converging zero on a tree 80 yards away with the visible laser. I successfully got the zero and started to mess around with the unit under night vision. After about 5 minutes of this I rechecked the zero and noticed it had shifted about 10 inches at 80 yards. I re-obtained the zero, lightly shook the gun and had the same thing happen. I also checked if this occurred with the IR laser and got the same result. My perst is mounted on a bcm MCMR (bought as a complete bcm upper) with a vortex razor 1-6 in a larue mount for the optic. I have had no issues with the razor and was plinking away with it at 300 yard 10 inch gongs earlier today. In an effort to take the rail out of the equation I directly mounted the razor to the mcmr, got another converging zero, and tried it again getting the same result. After this I tried to remount the perst, this time with a different rail slot, pushing the perst forwards and tightly torquing the mounting screw and the issue remained. I previously owned a dbal d2 and didnt have this issue. As a last measure I mounted both the perst and a holosun dot directly to my upper receiver (no MCMR involved) , followed the above procedure, and the same issue was present.

I am going to contact the ebay vendor and see what they have to say.
Link Posted: 8/10/2019 11:10:26 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By vym:
I recently purchased a perst-3 from the ebay store named "zenitco". Tonight I tried to get a converging zero on a tree 80 yards away with the visible laser. I successfully got the zero and started to mess around with the unit under night vision. After about 5 minutes of this I rechecked the zero and noticed it had shifted about 10 inches at 80 yards. I re-obtained the zero, lightly shook the gun and had the same thing happen. I also checked if this occurred with the IR laser and got the same result. My perst is mounted on a bcm MCMR (bought as a complete bcm upper) with a vortex razor 1-6 in a larue mount for the optic. I have had no issues with the razor and was plinking away with it at 300 yard 10 inch gongs earlier today. In an effort to take the rail out of the equation I directly mounted the razor to the mcmr, got another converging zero, and tried it again getting the same result. After this I tried to remount the perst, this time with a different rail slot, pushing the perst forwards and tightly torquing the mounting screw and the issue remained. I previously owned a dbal d2 and didnt have this issue. As a last measure I mounted both the perst and a holosun dot directly to my upper receiver (no MCMR involved) , followed the above procedure, and the same issue was present.

I am going to contact the ebay vendor and see what they have to say.
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Yikes, hopefully this is not a common problem. I hope everything gets worked out for you.
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 1:18:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/11/2019 1:37:27 AM EDT by Mr_Smiley]
I'm not sure how I feel about the "tool less" option screws that come with the Perst-3

Seems like they would be hard to remove, and also seem hard to tighten.

I'll mess with them for awhile but atleast it's an option.
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 8:29:00 PM EDT
So I got my Perst 3 green plus. Ordered off eBay from Zenitco. Ordered 24 July and received 8 Aug. Mounted on a KAC 16" SR-15 upper with a Noveske lower. Aimpoint T1 with lower 1/3rd. KAC irons and a surefire on the right side.

I have experience with Peq-4, Peq-2, PEQ-15 and PEQ-15A.

My review seems to be pretty inline with everyone else so far.

The overall fit and finish is not Steiner level but it does feel solid.

Mounts low and just a small amount of the top laser adjustment cap shows in the fov the lower right side. Pleasantly surprised.

Mounted close up on the KAC iron it just barely rubs on the illuminator plate when you flip it up.

I actually do not mind the flat head screw driver mount and have never had a use for quick disconnect on a laser.

Unlike other people I also do not mind the battery compartment. I always have a Gerber around and I like how low profile it is. Sometimes battery caps that are twist on in the back get in the way or are hard to access.

The pressure switch is awesome and pretty durable. I could see the adjustment dial breaking if it took a decent hit like maybe on a armored vehicle door. The pressure pad attachment to the laser is nice but just like any other pressure switch could break if hit hard right on it. The quick disco screw that I think are meant for the battery compartment can also be use on the pressure pad mount. The pad is a touch long and could be an issue on a SBR. The pressure pads on the laser itself are great as well.
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 8:29:31 PM EDT
The adjustment of the laser power levels really works and I like how you adjust individual components but when you are dual laser/ Illum it just dials down illumination.

With the programming it would mind being able to dial the IR laser even lower.

I also think it could have been slick if the programmed the blinking mode to engage on its own when a certain battery level is reached.

Took it to the woods where I have about 200 meters. Rifle has a 200 yard zero and just co-witnessed the laser on the target at 200 yards with the T1 on NV.

This thing is by far the brightest laser I haver ever used. It is no joke.
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 8:30:05 PM EDT
ISSUES
The illumination diffuser felt apart on me immediately. The lens fell out.

I lost the damn adjustment caps and had to come back the next day in the light to find them. I am going to find a way to attach them to the unit or rifle.

Zeroing the illuminator is the sketchiest thing ever to be put on a weapon mounted anything. It utilizes the tiniest "will strip any second hex bolts ever" and they move the illuminator in random directions. Once adjusted it didn't seem to move but I am literally scared to adjust it again and fear I am doing it wrong.

I have images taken ghetto through a pvs-14 but don't know how to upload.

I messaged Zenitco about the diffuser and adjustment caps before I found them so we will see how they fix that.
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 9:34:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/11/2019 9:36:11 PM EDT by BrWn001COW]
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Originally Posted By Stryker:
Anyone explain how best to zero the Illuminator with this set screw set up?
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@Stryker

i used the included hex key on the number 12 screws. i then adjusted the illuminator so the IR laser was centered in the field of view. there are left/right and up/down markings near the illuminator screws. i believe it is either a 1.6mm or 2mm hex key.

i did find this last picture, i have not tried this method though. it is saying to use number 20 to zero laser. i had a russian friend come by today, she said there was no mention of number 20 in the ZenitCo manual.

Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 10:22:55 PM EDT
someone who has multiple models could be a saint if they made English label stickers to place on them, at least for the rotating selector knob. or if anyone has one of those cool laser engravers/markers that could make metallic stick on labels for better durability.

I wish I was home in my workshop dangit!
Link Posted: 8/11/2019 10:23:10 PM EDT
That last pic of what #20 is actually pretty helpful. Basically as long as you have a flat head with you everything is good. Of course go ahead and try using that while wearing night vision holding a rifle, putting in the included part #20 then turning it with a screw driver all while the thing wants to fry eyeballs.
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Perst-3 lasers. (Page 13 of 13)
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