Having to push together, twist, and pull away is normal.  It sometimes breaks in slightly to be nearly not required, but it is normal.   We have to have some Z tolerance because very small changes in diameters on the tapers can push Z a few thousandths, and we are only working with about .014" across the threads and want near complete engagement of threads so we chose a fairly agressive helix angle to create tolerance to make the parts interchangeable across runs.  

The 938, can, and somewhat vintage Griffin mouse pad look sick!

Pretty sweet combo.  It's cool to see a 1/2x28 special used as intended in the field, for some Engineered Silence®

I read on Facebook that someone launched their can down range using a 1/2x28 cam-lok.

Has anyone else had an issue?

Would love to convert to this!

I would recommend putting oil on the taper in the piston.  Also I haven't really briskly tightened a cam lok interface to use it.   I snug the can to the adaptor and shoot it.  If you over-tighten, especially without lubrication on the taper, you can stick the adapter a bit, requiring the use of a spanner on the can to loosen it.  

Pertaining to the concept of launching a pistol silencer, I haven't heard it from the source or gotten any feedback from customer service, but wouldn't really be surprised if someone tried to use one without quite getting familiar with the system, because that could result in trying to shoot the silencer without meshing the threads at all which would obviously not work.  That would be like getting Garand thumb because you didn't think about the bolt closing with your thumb in the action.  A couple visitors were brought here by a guy we know who works with Hill People Gear, and they were guys from a government agency, both former Army SF guys, and we had a good conversation and an enjoyable visit.  One of them was a bit of a fan of the company and had several of our products, and he initially couldn't quite figure the CAM-LOK interface out, which is understandable as it seems so simple, he probably didn't listen as I told him how it functioned.   I explained it 2-3 times and he figured it out.  It took about a minute but demonstrated how someone could potentially fail to conceptualize it, or to realize there was something there to conceptualize.  

To mount the can, you have to:

1.  bayonet the barrel mount into the piston until the tapers contact.  Sometimes that requires a slight radial search for the bayonet position before the can drops in.  
2. apply and maintain light radial tension with either the can or the pistol in a clockwise direction
3. pull the silencer away from the pistol (this allows the threads to mesh whereupon the radial tension follows through, tightening the silencer onto the adaptor).


To dismount the user has to:

1. put slight (slight) linear tension on the silencer, as if to pull the silencer off the barrel adaptor.
2. unscrew the silencer (as this happens the silencer will unlock and pop off the adapter).


Errors I've seen are, pushing tapers together and trying to tighten the adapter without meshing the threads- it won't turn.  Also unscrewing the silencer without pulling the silencer away from the gun- which can result in re-meshing the threads during removal and making the system look like it doesn't work well.

So it's like an M1-Garand, where you have to learn the concept, and then it works so well, that people can watch someone do it without really figuring it out.

Interesting concept.  I don't know if we will support it or not.  We don't have a 1 3/16X24 booster system currently.  It looks like it would have to be made of aluminum, which means anodizing and somewhat looser tolerances than we can hold with 17-4 stainless steel due to involving anodizing vendors who as well as anodizing parts, sometimes burn up parts, or botch and strip and re-finish parts. Hardcoat adds .001-.0015" per surface, and stripping and re-anodizing doesn't add material, and might remove some material.

Comps are in stock back from nitride.  

I don't know when marketing will get them online for sale.

Will do thanks- the guy who does web updates here is on vacation till next Tuesday.

We wanted it to be natural to install the cans and installation torque makes it not an issue to have right hand threads.  The LH threads only exist because HK made a RH thread for the MK-23, and wanted to make sure the MK-23 OHG could not be installed on an HK tactical .45.  

The rest of the Left hand HK threads were probably intended to make people think Left hand threads were correct which wasn't really the case.   The MK-23 just place-held the correct threads.

Absolutely.  I don't tighten the cans nearly as tight with Cam-lok.  On standard pistons I would tighten them briskly and often.  With Cam Lok it's just snug and once.  With a rev, I tighten the housing to the tube with a wrench and the retainer finger snug, no issues.

SIG SRD compatible CAM0-LOK™ pistons now in stock!!  CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO

Neat kitten.  

The Cam Lok compensators are out.  

https://www.griffinarmament.com/cam-lok-carry-compensator-9mm-45cal/

Was the error at the point of order submission of the complete order?  What internet browser?