Kidd receiver, Kidd bolt, Kidd trigger, KG EOS barrel, Hogue stock, and Ruger mags. Everything is new and I just put it together. Used slip2000 on all the internal parts. V-block screws probably 15-20 in-Lbs, takedown screw at about 25 in-Lbs. I have the Kidd medium/regular recoil spring installed.

More than 50% of the time, the bullet nose gets wedged into the top of the chamber and the side of bullet gets mashed against the chamber lip while the rim is still down into the mag feed lips. It does this with Ruger BX-25 or BC-15 mags; whether they’re loaded full or nearly empty.

What to do?

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Try Ruger bolt, 10 round factory mag?

Is that the only ammo you have used?  What brand is it?

Tried Federal Bulk Pack LRN, Winchester Super-X HP (plated) and Norma TacX LRN... does it with all 'em.
I think that's the Norma in the pic?

A) Don't have a Ruger bolt.
B) Don't have a 10 round mag.

Try non hollow/less aggressive point copper jacketed rounds. I really like the ELEY force, but you get what you pay for with everything. CCI stinger and velocitors seem to work great in semi auto's as well.
Best of luck, home build 22 and 9mm PCC's can be hard to tune.

I had the same issue on my factory stock 10/22.  Except the nose dives on mine seemed to be a little more severe than yours.  I ended up chamfering the breech face on mine and it seems to have cured the issue.  I would hope you wouldn't have to do that with higher end parts though.  Proceed with caution.

More info on the issue can be found here http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=780737

Make sure your mags are not able to slide back and forth.  I had a butler creek 25 round mag that would shift position forwards and cause some .22 projectiles to shave lead off the chamber mouth edge and jam up like that.  If I grabbed that mag like a foregrip and kept pressure on it from walking forward it would feed flawlessly.  A few small pieces of tape on the front of that mag and problem was solved finally where I didn't have to hold the mag in place. As suggested if you can get hold of a 10 round factory mag see if that will feed it better. Make sure everythings in alignment.  If your op rods also just a touch out of line I've remembered seeing in other peoples threads reporting simliar issues.  Chamfering is an option but only if necessary. Once you remove something you can't replace it.  Take too much and you can create yourself other issues.  Good luck.

That was my initial thought... that the chamber edges are pretty sharp and maybe I could lap the chamber mouth with some lapping compound and a round brass screw/rod similar to lapping a barrel crown. It’s just the thought of modifying (and maybe voiding warranty) on a brand new integrally suppressed barrel is crazy. I’d probably contact KG-Made and have them look at it before lapping, cutting or chamfering my brand new registered barrel/silencer on my own.

The mags do have some back and forth wiggle if I pull them back and forth, but I think the spring plunger does a pretty good job of pushing and holding the mags forward.

Another thing I though is maybe somethings off... how far should a barrel stick into the receiver? Maybe the barrel is just a bit too close to the mag and I either need to put shims on the barrel shoulder or shin the mags backwards some??

Here’s pics of the barrel protrusion into the receiver and the edge of the chamber. It does look like the edge of the chamber edge is broken, but not quite a chamfer.

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What does the underside of the extractor hook look like? In the first pick it appears the rim is caught under the extractor. KIDD makes good stuff but it does not hurt to double check. It is possible the extractor has a burr or maybe something is off and the extractor hook is too close to the bolt face or something like that?

10/22's will usually run ok without an extractor they just won't extract an unfired round. Might be worth trying out.

Well I played with it more and I think it's the combinatino of a few things. I can put some tension on the mag to shift it forward/back/tilted and it seems to effect the reliability of manually charging the rounds only a little bit. I'm not convinced the mags are the biggest culprit. Also, the more I use it, the better it seems to run. It only jams about 30% of the time, now. I think the cumulative use of precision components all around (chamber, bolt, receiver) just needs a bit of break in to loosen up.

It has failed to extract a few rounds when hand cycling through a mag, here and there. Perhaps the extractor gap is a bit too small... One thing I noticed earlier today is that the rim of the cartridge seems to be as much stuck trying to slide up into the bolt face as the nose seems to be stuck going into the chamber. I think I'll check out the bolt face next time its apart and make sure everything's sliding up into there smoothly. I didn't feel any burrs on the extractor just a pretty sharp edge. But I think maybe putting a TINY chamfer on the bottom edge of the extractor claw might help the rim in there. Worst case scenario; it's a $10 part.