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Posted: 5/1/2023 12:28:00 PM EDT
I took my Ruger 10/22 to the range yesterday. This is a brand-new rifle.
Ammo: CCI Subsonic CCI Standard Velocity (40 grain) Mags: Ruger 10-round rotary Butler Creek 25-round banana mag CCI Subsonic did not cycle at all without the can (didn't try with the can) short-stroking CCI Standard Velocity didn't cycle, always short-stroking. Eventually got 5 shots in a row where it did cycle The Butler Creek mag didn't work at all, after the first shot the 2nd would miss the chamber and slam into the breech face above the chamber, damaging the ammunition. If that wasn't fun enough, I had a lot of problems getting the bolt hold-open to work on a consistent basis, and had difficulty removing the 10-round rotary mag. Is this just quirks of the platform, or is there more to it? Maybe it just needs more break-in? |
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Volquartsen exact edge extractor.
my 10/22's were never reliable until I added these. the bolt hold open is not a last round bolt hold open, like on an AR. It's a manual affair so you can lock the bolt back for administrative purposes. The OEM Ruger one is kinda weird IMO. That said there are some after market ones that are better. Same with the mag releases. The 10/22 really is a blank slate. So many parts available. |
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Did you clean & lube the rifle before shooting it?
The QC on some 10/22's is "iffy" - I've seen a lot of then with overspray of the finish on the inside that was causing drag on the bolt. A ScotchBrite pad or OOOO steel wool with some oil will remove/smooth it out. Pay close attention to where the bolt rides in the receiver. CCI Subsonic runs in some semi-autos, but not all. CCI SV *should* run fine - but all 22's have their quirks. The std. 10 shot rotary mag will always be the most dependable - most aftermarket ones have some level of reliability issues. Try some higher velocity stuff just to check if it works with that, but it should run with SV. |
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I learned this trick from members here 20 years ago...
Take barrel off, get a box of ammo , hand fit the shell into the chamber of barrel, find the one that is tightest or if they don't seat on their own, you have to micro polish the chamber/throat area with flitz compound and polish pad on dremal. And test fit til they all fit |
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There is no level playing field in life ~ Para069
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you've received some good advice so far.
I'll add that if you intend to run mostly standard velocity ammo radiusing the bolt is VERY helpful. I radius ALL my 10/22 bolts.. here's a pretty good guide on how to do this. https://1022companion.wordpress.com/2016/01/24/radiusing-the-bolt/ |
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"Never buy ammo made in a country where you wouldn't drink the tap water." Undefined
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I’d break it in with a bulk carton or 2 of high velocity ammo.
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Dupe for some reason.
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make sure the axis screw (hex head) in the magazine has not loosened and backed out causing problems removing the magazine
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If the Butler Creek mag is the plastic lip (red) model, toss in trash, it will never run. The BC steel lip mags should work as well as the Ruger BX-25. The Ruger BX-10 work the best.
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Death before dishonor, Drugs before lunch - Aspen Gun and Drug club.
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Originally Posted By Messer: Did you clean & lube the rifle before shooting it? The QC on some 10/22's is "iffy" - I've seen a lot of then with overspray of the finish on the inside that was causing drag on the bolt. A ScotchBrite pad or OOOO steel wool with some oil will remove/smooth it out. Pay close attention to where the bolt rides in the receiver. CCI Subsonic runs in some semi-autos, but not all. CCI SV *should* run fine - but all 22's have their quirks. The std. 10 shot rotary mag will always be the most dependable - most aftermarket ones have some level of reliability issues. Try some higher velocity stuff just to check if it works with that, but it should run with SV. View Quote Good stuff. I am going to disassemble it and look at the inside of the receiver. |
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Originally Posted By Slingblade2006: If the Butler Creek mag is the plastic lip (red) model, toss in trash, it will never run. The BC steel lip mags should work as well as the Ruger BX-25. The Ruger BX-10 work the best. View Quote It is the red plastic one. I think I have two of them that are headed for the trash can. I bought them 10 years ago before the CO mag ban. |
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Both of mine seem to like HV stuff more than standard velocity ammo. They love the HV Federal copper coated hollow points the best. I think they are 36gn. For mags find more BX-10 and get the tri-clip adapter to lock three of them together.
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Death before dishonor, Drugs before lunch - Aspen Gun and Drug club.
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Best bet with a new 10/22 is to set the aftermarket mags and less than HV ammo aside untill it has been broke in a bit.
Generally 40 gr high velocity round nose with factory 10 round mags is the best starting place. I favor CCI moni mags (40 gr rn). Factory bolt hold open is generally a bit fussy . If you radius the bolt it will generally help and keeping it clean is always good . Most all 22rf ammo has either wax or oil on the bullets and this stuff will act as a lube . Freshly cleaned and oiled will be a bit fussy , reliability will get better 50+ shots after cleaning and will fall off again after it gets real filthy. A well broke in 10/22 will run for a long time before it really needs cleaning. Never oil the mags , just gets gummy and makes the dirt stick .I will use silicone spray to hose out a mag . Flushes out most of the dirt and after dry leaves a bit of dry lube behind . Keep in mind the 10/22 is a decent design but there is a whole industry out there makeing parts to improve the trigger and bolt hold oper and release. Subsonics in a 10/22 (or any other semi auto) are going to be a tough thing to get running . I have a well broke in 10/22TD with the factory can . It runs happy as a clam with CCI Standard velocity and is very very quiet . Subsonics in it are really not any quieter but they are strictly single shot. |
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Good cleaning and proper lube job. Do the auto-bolt-release mod yourself. Scotchbrite treatment to polish inside of receiver. Should run fine on any SV/"standard" subsonic (not the CCI Quiet, Aguila Colibri, Aguila SSS etc but like CCI Sub HPs or Remington SSHP)
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'Thorry, thur, but Igorth do not “tetht the printhiple”. Thtrap it to the bench and put a good thick bolt of lightning through it, thatth our motto. Thatth how you tetht thomething.'
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There is an easy mod that you can do to the bolt hold-open that makes releasing it easy instead of the secret handshake nonsense that the OEM one requires.
There is an oblong hole inside of the bolt hold-open with a pointy nub inside. File down the nub and you should be good to go. |
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The government is just a corporation with a monopoly on violence.
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I run at least 500 rounds of high velocity through a 10/22 before I expect total reliability. The VQ extractor makes a real difference as well.
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Lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way!
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Politicians Prefer Unarmed Peasants
Caddyshack Some men are morally opposed to violence. They are protected by those who are not. Let's Go Brandon!!!!!!!! |
Late last summer I encountered a considerable number of out-of-spec Ruger 10/22 BX magazines that caused operational issues.
MHO, YMMV, etc. |
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I'll pass this along... I built a 10/22 for the Sportsman's Team Challenge in the mid 90s... it ran flawlessly with the 6 10round mags I purchased, for practice and the 5 years we shot down in Markham Park.... fast forward to 2 1/2 years ago, old age, over weight, and a bad knee pointed me towards Steel Challenge, and I put together a chassis 10/22 of sorts... BRN22 integral 1913 rail receiver and barrel, Ruger bolt and CH, BX trigger group in a PMACA chassis... I purchased 6 new red rotor 10/22 10round magazines... I ran into reliability problems, and immediately looked at the magazines... the original black rotor magazines measured within .005" of each other front to rear... the 6 red rotor magazines varied up to .015" front to rear... since the feed ramp and ejector are on the metal magazine lip I suspected this was the culprit...I tried tightening up the mags with a little duct tape, but I did not really follow through...I now use a CMMG conversion with dedicated 9" upper on my SBR... runs exceptionally well with the HS 510c green reticle..and I get 3 runs before having to break concentration and reload... regards Les L747
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Have a cheap $10 stock in the dishwasher right now.
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Death to quislings.
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Brand-new and it won't run? I'd call Ruger and have them make it right.
If it were, say, a gun you'd been using for 10 years, then I'd say otherwise. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Brand-new and it won't run? I'd call Ruger and have them make it right. If it were, say, a gun you'd been using for 10 years, then I'd say otherwise. View Quote If I was the Ruger tech support person, I'll tell OP to call me back once he'd tried some CCI MiniMags. |
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By kymarkh: I run at least 500 rounds of high velocity through a 10/22 before I expect total reliability. The VQ extractor makes a real difference as well. View Quote I bought 5 10/22s for a girl's camp a few years back, slapped a red dot on them, put a better bolt-hold-open plate and a plastic buffer in them, and shot just enough rounds through each to verify the desired zero. Then off to camp they went, along with 18,000 or 19,000 rounds of Blazer. We put all of that ammo through those guns over the course of three days, and had no more than 5-10 failures to feed/fire/whatever the entire time. (They did get cleaned once each night.) Even a pretty stock 10/22 SHOULD run fairly well right out of the box. |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: If I was the Ruger tech support person, I'll tell OP to call me back once he'd tried some CCI MiniMags. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Brand-new and it won't run? I'd call Ruger and have them make it right. If it were, say, a gun you'd been using for 10 years, then I'd say otherwise. If I was the Ruger tech support person, I'll tell OP to call me back once he'd tried some CCI MiniMags. Running the hottest ammo to make them run is a band-aid covering up underlying issues with the gun. If a 10/22 needs minimags to run, there's something wrong with it. |
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As posted several times above, make sure it is properly lubricated then shoot a few hundred rounds through it. If you start parts swapping without figuring out if there is an issue, you are probably just wasting money. Once broken in standard velocity should feed flawlessly.
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With a suppressor, I shoot Match ammo. Once in a while you’ll hear one break the sound barrier. Most are silent. All of mine were reliable straight out of the box.
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17 And that no man might buy or sell, save he that had the mark, or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.
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Kidd spring selection kit https://www.kiddinnovativedesign.com/KIDD-Guide-Rod-Spring-Kit_p_46.html, VQ action parts, Clark misc.
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If you're going to fight, fight like you're the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's ark and brother, IT'S STARTING TO RAIN!
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Running the hottest ammo to make them run is a band-aid covering up underlying issues with the gun. If a 10/22 needs minimags to run, there's something wrong with it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Brand-new and it won't run? I'd call Ruger and have them make it right. If it were, say, a gun you'd been using for 10 years, then I'd say otherwise. If I was the Ruger tech support person, I'll tell OP to call me back once he'd tried some CCI MiniMags. Running the hottest ammo to make them run is a band-aid covering up underlying issues with the gun. If a 10/22 needs minimags to run, there's something wrong with it. Expecting a modern semi-auto rimfire to run out of the box on subsonics w/o a can mounted is a fool's errand. |
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Death to quislings.
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I kind of want to just buy a KIDD bolt and be done with it. Upgraded extractor, firing pin, etc.
Quickly becoming an expensive cheap gun haha. |
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Originally Posted By shultz:
you've received some good advice so far. I'll add that if you intend to run mostly standard velocity ammo radiusing the bolt is VERY helpful. I radius ALL my 10/22 bolts.. here's a pretty good guide on how to do this. https://1022companion.wordpress.com/2016/01/24/radiusing-the-bolt/ View Quote Volquartsen extractor is a must do!!!! Not just your 10-22, but if you have a Ruger 22-45 or Mark series, change the extractor. It also improves the Smith and Wesson 41, and probably some others. Depending on how much you have fired your rifle, just cleaning the heck out of the chamber area will help things. |
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: [color=#ff0000]Running the hottest ammo to make them run is a band-aid covering up underlying issues with the gun. If a 10/22 needs minimags to run, there's something wrong with it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By backbencher: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Brand-new and it won't run? I'd call Ruger and have them make it right. If it were, say, a gun you'd been using for 10 years, then I'd say otherwise. If I was the Ruger tech support person, I'll tell OP to call me back once he'd tried some CCI MiniMags. [color=#ff0000]Running the hottest ammo to make them run is a band-aid covering up underlying issues with the gun. If a 10/22 needs minimags to run, there's something wrong with it. Wrong. OP listen to the good advice. |
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Originally Posted By NVCapCop: https://www.cdnnsports.com/media/catalog/product/cache/f5b8ec3106966d0a70caa3833e0df530/R/U/RUG90463.jpg https://www.cdnnsports.com/media/catalog/product/cache/f5b8ec3106966d0a70caa3833e0df530/r/u/rug90361.jpg https://www.cdnnsports.com/media/catalog/product/cache/f5b8ec3106966d0a70caa3833e0df530/r/u/rug90591.jpg View Quote This is what I had thought and experienced till last summer when I bought some of the black Ruger BX's - 10, 15, and 25. It looked like they may have come from different factories, or off different production lines. A couple were okay, but it took some grinding and filing to make the out of spec ones work right. MHO, YMMV, etc. |
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Bought my 10/22 about 9 years ago. I think that they were being cranked-out too quickly and neglecting some QC. Anyway, it didn't cycle well, I did some homework and got the VQ extractor kit instead of sending it to Ruger. That way, I spent something like $25, waited about 5 days, had it installed in under 30 minutes and never looked back. It runs like a top. A few years later, I got the VQ hammer upgrade kit on clearance for something like $40 when VQ slightly upgraded it and now my trigger pull and break are great (and it still runs like a top). That install was about the same amount of time. I'll give Ruger some credit. The thing groups well.
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"Positive rights" are neither.
Busy leaving people the F alone. |
Went a little stupid.
Kidd Upgraded Bolt Kidd Guide Rod/Charging handle Kidd bolt buffer. $200 later... |
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Death to quislings.
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Took mine about a brick to get broken in and reliable.
Runs great now. |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Expecting a modern semi-auto rimfire to run out of the box on subsonics w/o a can mounted is a fool's errand. View Quote Huh? Maybe the Quiet stuff, or other specialty ammo... but CCI SV, CCI SS HPs, Remington SSHPs, Fiocchi SSHPs, Winchester SSHPs, plus pretty much every single match grade offering out there should all run and cycle fine. |
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'Thorry, thur, but Igorth do not “tetht the printhiple”. Thtrap it to the bench and put a good thick bolt of lightning through it, thatth our motto. Thatth how you tetht thomething.'
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Originally Posted By Gopher: I agree. CCI Stingers and run it wet for the first few hundred. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Gopher: Originally Posted By kymarkh: I run at least 500 rounds of high velocity through a 10/22 before I expect total reliability. The VQ extractor makes a real difference as well. I agree. CCI Stingers and run it wet for the first few hundred. That's exactly what we did with my son's 10/22 many years ago. And it did indeed smooth things up! Mine and my wife's bought in the early 80's were fine right out of the box. At least as far as 22 rimfire goes. |
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I'd try some CCI mini mags first, lots of good tips here but sometimes just a good break in is all they need.
If it doesn't cycle minimags, there's a problem. If you plan to run any ammo below 1000fps without a can then I'd be writing down all these tips. Not all 10/22s like std. velocity but I've not seen a new one that reliably cycles loads like CCI semi auto Quiets without a little polish and a few parts. |
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I took it apart yesterday, cleaned it out. I used some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth some of the overspray inside the receiver. I cleaned and oiled the new KIDD parts and got them installed. Seems to be an improvement so far!
the KIDD charging handle/guide rod was a bit of a pain to install. |
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Gonads & Strife
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Originally Posted By djkest: I took it apart yesterday, cleaned it out. I used some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth some of the overspray inside the receiver. I cleaned and oiled the new KIDD parts and got them installed. Seems to be an improvement so far! the KIDD charging handle/guide rod was a bit of a pain to install. View Quote My newest 10/22 wouldn't cycle when I first got it, I had excess anodizing flaking off inside the receiver causing malfunctions. I ended up tearing it apart to remove all the anodizing on the inside, after that it ran like a champ. |
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WTB : KAC FF M4 RAS P/N 20208
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Originally Posted By HipSh0T: My newest 10/22 wouldn't cycle when I first got it, I had excess anodizing flaking off inside the receiver causing malfunctions. I ended up tearing it apart to remove all the anodizing on the inside, after that it ran like a champ. View Quote Well they ran the 10/22 last weekend and over 200 rounds of CCI Mini-mags and not a single failure. Success! |
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A 10/22 is not like an AR, you should not run it wet. The .22 ammo is super dirty and will quickly gum up if you run it wet. The best lube for 10/22 is One Shot. I lightly, lightly coat the friction areas with a little oil but One Shot is the main lube. I use it to clean and lube all my .22 semi auto rifles and pistols.
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I don't know if sanding the inside made a difference, but between the new guide rod and the KIDD bolt, it really feels different. Smooth with no hint of binding. Need to put more rounds through it but mini-mags seem to be the best thing to use.
Now I need more reliable mags, might stick to 10-round rotary mags for now. |
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Originally Posted By djkest: I don't know if sanding the inside made a difference, but between the new guide rod and the KIDD bold, it really feels different. Smooth with no hint of binding. Need to put more rounds through it but mini-mags seem to be the best thing to use. Now I need more reliable mags, might stick to 10-round rotary mags for now. View Quote The 10 round mags are all I use these days. I’ve tried a lot of other mags, but the factory10 round mags are by far the most reliable. |
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