Put the extractor spring back in, and when I clean my 94 after shooting this wed, will post a photo on how to scallop the bottom rim releif areas/claw of the extractor so the case rim will ride up into the ejector slot to gently open the ejector to allow the case to cleanly seat on the bolt far; isntead of the rim being kicked over to the ejection port side of the bolt since it having a hard time on the ejector side getting the ejector to cam open on feed.

Hence the  case rim, as its riding up the bolt face from the lifter,  has to both depress the ejector into the receiver slot, and ride up into into the extractor rim relief slot to slightly cam it open to  allow the case rim to seat cleanly into the bolt face.

Also, on the lever cam, don't go buck wild on the last of  sharp edge to round that too much. You still need the lifter to make it just a touch higher than the bottom of chamber on the kick up, since about the time that the tip of the cartage starts to enter the chamber, the lifter is starting to drop back down.  So when doing the round over mod, you want the bottom V of the front of the lifter to be about 1/8" higher than the the bottom of the chamber edge on the initial kick up via the lever.

Had at chance to clean the Remlin 1894, so here at the photo's promised of the tuned OEM ejector and extractor.
Note: don't normal wear gloves to clean, but have a nasty cut on my left hand that is band-aid'd and healing that I didn't want to leach Hoppes into wound.

So, what we have is when you are cycling the lever closed round nose up at it started into the chamber up the lifter, and the rim riding the bolt face on an angle until the rim can seat past the extractor and the ejector as the bolt is locking home (think control mouser feed that the rim comes up the bottom of the extractor groove to gently open the extractor as the rim is seating home in the rim releif channel, and not something like a AR that the rim is going to snap the ejector open instead.



On the ejector side, we need  the rim to push the ejector back in the receiver channel gently about the same time it starting to enter the ejector as well.
On the bottom side of the ejector where the rim will contact first contact it on the angle way up, we taper the bottom ledge of the ejector so the rounds rim can gently push the ejector the needed amount back in the channel as the rim is also making contact with the ejector about the same time.



On the ejector, again we need the rim to enter the extractor cleanly as it begins to push the extractor open, so the bottom rim channel side not only gets chamfer radius, but the bottom of the claw gets angles as well.  Hence as the rim makes contact to the extractor and before it even starts to push the ejector open, it already locked into the ejector channel.







Let me know if you have any questions, but the photo are pretty obvious of what needs to be tweaked so the rim cleanly seats on the bolt face from the angle feed up the lifter.