So I got one of the new Marlin 1894c and wanted to make it something fun/very useful.

Sent it to Class 3 Machining for the threading. Then shortened the front sight to match. Also slightly shortened the magazine tube to clear the thread shoulder.  Threw in some Ranger Point Precision stuff and a dove tail rail base for the Burris Fastfire 2.

Ranger Point medium loop lever with shims, magazine follower, clover leaf rear and front sight.  Threaded 1/2x28  0.5 long.

What did the threading cost?

Any idea how subsonic 125 gr bullets would shoot?  I’ve found about 1000 of the old Star bullets, 125 JHPs. They are similar to Berry’s bullets.

The threading was $90 shipped, I did the rest myself.

No idea on how those bullets will group, you'll need to shoot some at various charges and see what works best. My guess is they'll shoot just fine.

One reason I kept the longer barrel was for the pressure drop for quieter sound and ability to run a smaller silencer.  Second reason was to keep the magazine capacity.

This just makes me want an 357 marlin to suppress even more. How do you like it? Does it have any issues so far with the mechanics? I've been eyeing the CST model since it's factory threaded and stainless. Humidity is my enemy.

Absolutely love it now that I have everything done. Honestly the RPP lever was a huge improvement. The stock lever would twis and pinch my hand so badly I thought about not keeping the rifle. Now it runs very nicely. Only other upgrade I might do in the future is a one piece trigger, but not in a hurry for that right now. With humidity being an issue, definitely get the stainless one. Also saves you a bunch of extras I had to pay to get.  Not needing stainless, wanting the bigger magazine and longer barrel for noise reduction, all played a factor in me going with the roll my own version. At some point I might have it done in Nitride or a NP3 finish, but for now she will be a fun toy/tool.

I would prefer a nitrided finish or a black cerakote over a satin stainless honestly. I'm assuming you are gonna be rolling your own subs as well, correct? That's my plan at least, provided I get the rifle.

Never had any reason to shoot subsonic 357, and still don’t unless I get a suppressor. Just curious if you had tried 125s at subsonic speeds.

If you were gonna shoot subs it would better to go with a 158 over a 125 any ways. It's 2019, everyone should have a suppressor by now!!

if you're shooting subsonics, just shoot 38spl, you get more of them in the tube

The only reason I don't shoot 38s in my 15-2 is to avoid cylinder fouling, and I'd do the same in a lever gun too. I reload 357s so its a no brainer to make subs or 38 special level reloads.

I load lots of 44spl subsonic to get an extra round capacity.  I get a carbon ring after a few hundred rounds that makes 44mag hard to chamber.  
I took a piece of heavy copper wire(around 1/4 inch diameter or more), flattened the end and bent it 90deg.  I filed the edge to match the radius of the chamber and use it to scrape the carbon ring out.  Only takes maybe an extra minute when the bolt is out.

Also if you're handloading subsonic ammo, lighter bullets around 1000fps or less will be significantly quieter than heavier ones at 1050-1100fps.

Love it. Picked mine up on NYE. Sights are in the future, but first, a sling.

From playing arround with a necked down 357, lighter bullets help a lot at lowering the noise.  Was playing arround a 230 grain bullet using AA#9 and was amazed how quite it was. Powder is also a huge part of the equation.

Fwiw, the 230 cycles in my cst, but is not accurate. I have other 357 rifles I will play with it with, as I suspect it is a diameter issue with my cst.

Not every target is a 450lb boar hog, light subs can be lots of fun and useful for some things.

What kind of necked down 357 are you playing around with?

I just got the same model you did OP, took it to the range and it performed fantastic.

That price for the barrel threading by Class 3 sounds great; that's who I was planning to send mine to.

Do you mind sharing how you trimmed the magazine tube?

I have a low wall and a contender pistol chambered in a wildcat that uses 357 mag brass run through a 300bk die-I call it 300wtf.  I have shot loads from 90 grains to 230 grains iirc.  The idea started as a modernized 32/20 (as bullets and brass for that are uncommon) with the thought of the British concept of a rook rifle - a short range rifle for small pest control.  In the end, the only thing I have shot with them is targets so far (although one was going to be my son's first deer rifle and the other was hunted with a few times from a bow stand).  That said, the rimless version - a Rugar American Ranch Rifle in 300bk was my go to hog gun for a season with exactly the same 230grain load (all I had to change on the press was the shell the shell holder).
-
just an update on my cst.  It was the 230 grain .357 cast bullets.  Switching to jacketed got me groups.  Still need to tighten them, but  it is a start.  The bullets are not available sized larger.  I have several other heavy bullets I am experimenting with yet.

Very interesting!!! I'll send you an email soon about it, I'm just curious about your little project.

It really was simple, just slow work.

I used a file and a drill. Start by selecting the two drill bits that fit the retainer holes. Mark the tube in a straight line for the holes. The move the holes back what ever length works for the thread length you have. Mine ended up moving back almost exactly the distance from the old end to the holes. So when I filed back the tube, I was finished when the old holes were gone. I used the end plug to help square it up as I went. Once the tube was shortened, I used it as a guide to mark the underside of the barrel for the new detent hole. Which is inline with the factory milling. I test fit it several times till I had the depth needed. Go slow and you'll have no issues. If it still gives you the willies, have Class 3 do the complete job. Just runs more $.

Slight update, I ordered some Byods stocks for it. Got the nutmeg laminated ones.

Exactly the final look and durability I was looking for.