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Posted: 10/16/2018 10:24:49 AM EDT
This rifle was put together from parts. It is Springfield Armory. The barrel and receiver are not numbers matching. The wood stock is new. I have always wanted an M1 as my Grandfather carried on on WW2. I am not sure what to offer for this rifle. Any ideas/ballpark? @FluffyTheCat
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So many Garands were refurbished by the arsenal, so a mix-matched barrel and receiver wouldn't bother me one bit, and you can buy USGI wood for it if you like. I'd me more concerned about getting the throat and muzzle erosion numbers.
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Quoted:
So many Garands were refurbished by the arsenal, so a mix-matched barrel and receiver wouldn't bother me one bit, and you can buy USGI wood for it if you like. I'd me more concerned about getting the throat and muzzle erosion numbers. View Quote I know nothing about M1 Garands. Can someone explain throat and muzzle erosion numbers? Can I do this myself? |
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The rifling can get worn at the muzzle from cleaning.
The market for any garand is high. If you can buy that one for under 750 you found a deal. Why not get one thru the CMP? |
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It may not matter to you and it certainly did not matter to the US Govt, but the stock is birch, possibly aftermarket, and the handguards are walnut. The above posted advice is spot on. If headspace checks good, IE: bolt won't fully close on a NO GO headspace gauge, follow-up by checking the chamber throat erosion, 3 or below is good, 5 or below is acceptable, and check the muzzle wear, should be 3 or below IMO. If it does not headspace, its a pile of parts. Do not shoot it until a knowledgeable gunsmith fixes it or changes bolts to one that headspaces properly. If it meets the above criteria, I would agree on a $750.00 offering price but go no higher than $850.00. Look at Dupage Trading's site for a walnut stock.
One more thing, shoot only milsurp 30-06 or new 30-06 loaded to mid range pressures specifically for the M1 Garand. Sellior and Belloit, Privi Partisan, Creedmore Sports, and Federal red box all make new 30-06 ammo specifically loaded for the M1. Modern 30-06 hunting ammo is to strong for the M1. You might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later some sort of damage will occur. Visit the cmp.org for much more info on this rifle and ammo for it. |
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Since it's a put together I'd also want to check the headspace as well. Throat and muzzle wear require some inexpensive tools. Throat erosion gauge. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71kcD6DLUhL._SX355_.jpg Muzzle wear gauge https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SN8AAOSwl0tZpq4b/s-l300.jpg View Quote Attached File |
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A cheaper muzzle wear gauge if OP needs a quick and dirty estimation of barrel life: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/259822/Capture_JPG-707275.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Since it's a put together I'd also want to check the headspace as well. Throat and muzzle wear require some inexpensive tools. Throat erosion gauge. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71kcD6DLUhL._SX355_.jpg Muzzle wear gauge https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SN8AAOSwl0tZpq4b/s-l300.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/259822/Capture_JPG-707275.JPG I like birch stocks. I prefer all three pieces of wood to be the same though. |
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ETA. If there is no rifling left or the fmj round goes right in loosely to the brass I would offer 200 less than mentioned for a new barrel.
The criterion brand replacements are as good or better than the originals for shooting purposes. |
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I want to see the op rod and gas cylinder. Both look like they could for a Winnie.
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Quoted:
It may not matter to you and it certainly did not matter to the US Govt, but the stock is birch, possibly aftermarket, and the handguards are walnut. The above posted advice is spot on. If headspace checks good, IE: bolt won't fully close on a NO GO headspace gauge, follow-up by checking the chamber throat erosion, 3 or below is good, 5 or below is acceptable, and check the muzzle wear, should be 3 or below IMO. If it does not headspace, its a pile of parts. Do not shoot it until a knowledgeable gunsmith fixes it or changes bolts to one that headspaces properly. If it meets the above criteria, I would agree on a $750.00 offering price but go no higher than $850.00. Look at Dupage Trading's site for a walnut stock. One more thing, shoot only milsurp 30-06 or new 30-06 loaded to mid range pressures specifically for the M1 Garand. Sellior and Belloit, Privi Partisan, Creedmore Sports, and Federal red box all make new 30-06 ammo specifically loaded for the M1. Modern 30-06 hunting ammo is to strong for the M1. You might get away with it for a while, but sooner or later some sort of damage will occur. Visit the cmp.org for much more info on this rifle and ammo for it. View Quote if you are buying from the person that assembled it from parts, ask about headspace, like did he have to ream the barrel no go is good, but he may have used a field gauge (which is ok as long as it does not close) |
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May just be the way the picture was taken but the crown looks funny and I don't see any rifling inside the bore. I would be careful on this one
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WRA bolt, thats good.
Be careful with the homemade mixmasters. They could bite you. Remove the trigger group and take pics. Remove the stock and take pics of the op rod number and the barrel numbers. |
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He wants $700.00. Is it worth it? The barrel will have to be replaced. I'll try to get more pics up soon.
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He wants $700.00. Is it worth it? The barrel will have to be replaced. I'll try to get more pics up soon. View Quote A mix master is worth the sum of its parts. So figure out what it has for the major parts: Trigger Group Bolt Op Rod Receiver Gas Cylinder Rear Sight Assembly Front Sight Stock Barrel Spend some time looking on forums and on parts dealers to get an idea of parts pricing but at $700 for a complete functioning Garand, you are probably ok for a shooter. |
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So many Garands were refurbished by the arsenal, so a mix-matched barrel and receiver wouldn't bother me one bit, and you can buy USGI wood for it if you like. I'd me more concerned about getting the throat and muzzle erosion numbers. View Quote |
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Probably a carryover from national match shooting days when everyone was sorting through surplus when it was stacked like cordwood View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Quoted: It needs to be cleaned, but I can see some crud in there. View Quote If its pitted than it may need to be replaced. Throw a ball round in the muzzle end and take a picture. Also, add pictures of the op rod numbers, trigger housing numbers, and barrel numbers. |
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I see you posted pictures when I was typing but the flash or backlight makes it too hard to read numbers.
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All the numbers I could find. @TOTHEMAX
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Lock back the op rod while the gun is appart. It should reveal the barrel numbers.
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1954 Receiver.
Ending serial number list: SA - Springfield ArmoryDecember19545378246 |
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Not the original barrel. It should have 54' era barrel.
It does have a cool DAS stamp on it. |
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Is it worth the $700 investment with a probable new barrel plus whatever the gunsmith charges?
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I would say 700$ is high for that rifle even If the barrel is not shot out. The shiny receiver heel is a big turnoff. It looks like it was wire wheeled and would have to be reparked. It is mostly SA parts which are the most common. The WRA bolt is a score. The wood is meh. If it does need re barreled you are into a new barrel for 100+ and then tac on labor.
Unless you really want a M1 or you can get it for much cheaper, I would pass. Order up a CMP rifle and you may get some nice GI wood. |
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If barrel cleans up it should be decent. I think that is after opted, not a cut or modified opted, which is more desirable. 11 may be a unique follower number as I was think 12 was the common post war number.
If you search around Scott Duff's website you can get some good info on rarity of parts. But from what I see you have a typical mix master shooter that should be a lot of fun! |
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Got any pics of the top of the gas cylinder especially the rear ring.
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I'd pass. The wire wheeled receiver is a big turn off for me.
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I got it for $650.00. I think I will save my pennies and get it reparkerized and either replace or recrown the barrel.
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Got any pics of the top of the gas cylinder especially the rear ring. View Quote Are these pics okay? Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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At 650$ I think you made a good choice. I would get a new barrel installed and shoot it.
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Quoted: @svt40 Are these pics okay? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198106/IMG_2927__1600_x_1200__jpg-708534.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198106/IMG_2930__1600_x_1200__jpg-708535.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198106/IMG_2929__1600_x_1200__jpg-708537.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/198106/IMG_2935__1600_x_1200__jpg-708538.JPG View Quote |
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Any advice on an Armorer? I can put AR's together all day long. M1's are well outside my wheelhouse.
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Why worry about a gunsmith, you haven't even fired it yet. You may find out it shoots fine
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They are all parts guns. Have a gunsmith check the headspace then shoot it.
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The only concern I would have is if the receiver is a reweld. The drawing number doesn't seem to match the serial according to this reference; it looks like your serial number should have drawing number D6528291-43 rather than F 6528291. That said, two caveats:
1) that reference itself states that dates and serial numbers are approximate, and 2) even if a reweld, rewelds can be fully functional. Looking at the pics I can't tell if it's a trick of the light/flash or if there is a bit of a color change on the receiver. Now there are real experts out here, I'm just a guy who knows mostly only what I read on the internet. So I could be totally off. Regardless you got the gun for a field grade price from the CMP. |
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More pics of the receiver/clip latch area. There is a discrepancy in the drawing number, but it is close.
Could this be a reweld? Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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it's not a reweld,
the receiver is marked on the leg to show it was at one time reworked at Benicia if I am reading that etched initials correct (lots of glare) now that you have it , turn the flash off and take the rifle outside and take pics in the shade , they come out better and $650, decent buy, clean, shoot, repeat |
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