From what I understand as the buffer runs forward, the weights remain to the rear. When the bolt and buffer come to a sudden halt, the weights continue forward and "bump" the bolt to give it a better shot at completely seating. Sort of an automatic forward assist. With insufficient buffer weight and without full cycling it may not have been getting a complete seal when cycling with the weak reloads (no light strikes when manually cycling the bolt). I was also using a LaRue MBT-2S trigger with the light spring, so it may have been a combination of the two.

More shoulder bump and more gun lube should help. Maybe fewer rounds loaded or a bigger mag to reduce follower drag. A BCG shouldn't bounce and get stuck just out of battery.

LaRues come with two different trigger springs, not hammer springs, which really only affects the reset feel.

Thanks for the info. I didn't even think/look at which spring it was. I did notice the BCG was pretty dry when cleaning afterward.

I need to get a small base sizing die. Some of my reloads weren't passing a check gauge even though they seemed ok when I did a chamber check, then again I was manually cycling.

I've tried just the LW buffer before replacing the BCG (trying to lower the reciprocating mass) and it only seems to work well with the LW BCG and RP buffer spring not a standard weight BCG and/or spring.

I still have a few things to get sorted.

Another thing OP could try.
F.A.B. Defense GL-SHOCK M4/M16 Shock-Absorbing Buttstock

Don't know how I missed this. The only thing I found for stocks was Limbsavers for my Magpuls SL and CTR. FAB stuff can be gimmicky imo but the couple videos I found on it say it works.

I shot a few rounds without the sled and I'm not sure I can get it to shoot any softer. Between the light bullets/charges and the guns set-ups, it's down to a nudge on the bench. Still haven't tried going to the indoor range and shooting offhand yet.

I have one, don't really need it since I have a suppressor there is little recoil anyway.
Pushing on it, it does move a noticeable amount against the spring tension. It's heavier than a Magpul so I guess that helps recoil to.
Note the gel pistol grip also. This was my first AR and I went full retard worried about recoil, none of my other ARs have this stuff.

eta: https://www.atioutdoors.com/product/x1-pistol-grip/

That don't look bad. They have one at my local Bass Pro. Might go take a look. Actually, I think the stock looks pretty good, the grip not so much lol. Thanks for the info.

If you have a standard fixed stock with the space for a cleaning kit, you might try adding weights. There are commercial products available or you can improvise. They make them for handguards also.

For reloads, you might try lt-32 or Reloder 7. Rl 7 is my favorite accuracy powder with 52 to 55 gr bullet and will cycle all rifles it has been tried in, including a WOA +2 rifle. (21.5gr behind a 52gr smk or Berger)

After cleaning my 20" AGB and opening it all the way, I went to the range and the first 5 single shots fired with my lightest reloads, all locked back. Since I can't leave well enough alone, I turned it a 1/4 turn in. Started short stoking again. I turn it back out (which was difficult), and can't get it to cycle or lock-back. My 18" is cycling fine (but it has lightweight BCG, buffer & RP spring). Both are rifle length and you would think the 20" would get more gas than a 18" with the extra dwell time. Thinking I need a new adjustable gas block.

I had some .25-2 oz. fishing weights I added to my ACS stock and to the grip compartments. I was surprised how many could fit, added 1.5 Lbs. to the rifle.

I have some 52 smks I haven't tried yet. I'm using LT-30 and 2200 so I'm in the ballpark with burn rates. I'll give the 52s a try.

Got a chance to try the 52 SMKs. LT-30 won't cycle my 20" rifle but 2200 and 2015 did pretty well at 22 gr. (2014 4th shot opened it up from .588) @ 100. Slightly more recoil than the 30/36 VGs but it's really hard to tell.

Your post about the grip got me thinking and I decided to go full retard and ordered one of these new Hogue modular overmolded rubber grips lol. Hoping it will help recoil.



https://www.hogueinc.com/tacrifles/ar15/modular-grips

Came to post this. I have a mag coupler that I keep on my shtf rifle and when both 30 rounders are fully loaded, recoil is significantly less than when approaching "E"

I have a mostly polymer and titanium neck. Recoil is also my mortal enemy.

Something that helped me tremendously was using an offset mount for my optics/sights. I CAN shoot a rifle in 'standard' configuration, but even a 223 will leave me in bad shape after 10-15 rounds. If I can keep my head as near vertical (inlined with my spine) as possible when I shoot I can go for about as long as I want and not be in bad shape an hour later. I've even been able to get a few rounds on a 338.

For me a muzzle brake is the very first thing I change. The biggest heaviest muzzle brakes I can get. I've even made a brake that was 3  brakes welded together.

I 3d printed a plug that went into my buffer that I could install a 2inch spring into. The buffer would move rearward, and slow down before hitting the back of the buffer tube. I can keep enough gas running to cycle and not have so much of the recoil impulse on my shoulder.

I also used a pistol brace, as a brace for a rifle. Having it attached to my forearm let me keep my head vertical. Which led to the offset optics mount. I can't wait till braces are illegal and I can't shoot those anymore.

I've been able to graduate to the ar10 platform (308 and 6.5), but I'm pretty stuck on ar platforms because of the ease of customizing them for lower recoil. Any rifle I shoot is heavy, on purpose. I'm back to shooting 'standard' power loads now, but it does take some creative thinking.

I still can't do much in a prone position because of the neck angle, but I'm working on different ideas all the time. The offset optics doesn't help me there. I need to be able to look at the ground and still shoot. I'm working on a prism to maybe allow that.

Best of luck to you. Keep working at it!

Understood. Thought I did something wrong at first.

Great info thanks. You get it. Very difficult to come up behind a scope when your neck is screwed/fused together. I can't tilt my head real well so I have my scopes as far back and high as I can. Shooting prone is out of the question for me. No way in hell.

I'd be interested is seeing how you're using the pistol brace. Can you post a pic? I have a Tailhook Mod 2 I can try. I lost a lot of muscle in my shoulders and neck when they cut and at my age probably won't get much back. It's causing weakness in my support arm.

The spring is an interesting idea too. I have adjustable gas blocks set to have the buffer barely cycle the BCG, are you using AGBs?

The fact that you're shooting ar10s and 338 is great. I read on FB about a guy who busted 2 screws sighting his hunting rifle so be careful. I can't even think about shooting my .45-70. I'd be on the couch for a week lol

For muzzle break I have the PA Hypertaps. Supposedly reduces recoil by up to 90%. A link here to the tests about halfway down. Won't make you many friends at the range tho.

Thanks again for the info and take care of yourself.

Note: I know much of this has little to do with reloading so my apologies it has taken a few turns OT.

I basically used the brace like you're 'supposed' to. Strapped it to my arm, using a red dot as a sight. Held it out right in front me with both hands. Had to cant the pistol heavily to the side. But, that left my head vertical and in a straight line with my spine. So I 3d printed a mount so my red dot was centered over the barrel when the pistol was canted to my left. I shot from a bench only. Realizing I had gone through a mag and I wasn't hurting really bad, I took the plastic mount off and just started looking down the side of the pistol. My accuracy sucked... I was minute of milk jug at 25 yards. That lead me to try a mount that offset my scope to the side 0.5", then 0.3". Last year I found a place to get these plastic mounts remade in alluminum or steel. They plan to start producing them now because they work really well, even for those without neck problems.


I have an adjustable on my ar10, and it's turned down to just enough to cycle. I shoot 7.62x51 loads in the 308, so I guess it's a lighter version of the 308win load. But having the scopenoffset was again the trick for me.



I've come close to re-injury but haven't done it. For me it's more of where my head is when the recoil impulse hits. If I lean my head over too far, and have my muscles tight, even shooting my grandsons 22cricket will cause pain in my neck and shoulders. And if I shoot 4 or 5 rounds that way, it starts with a neck ache on my left side and after that I'm screwed. It'll just keep spreading until my head hurts and I have a burn between my shoulders.


People at the range I'm sure don't like me. And everyone that picks up my rifles always say 'omg that thing weighs 50 pounds!' But I gotta do what I gotta do. 1 of my brakes is actually 3 brakes that I threaded and screwed together. It does blast the spectators at the bench!



You might try just keeping your head straight and relax your neck. Look down the side of the rifle. It's def not accurate but if it works, an offset mount might help you out. Like your 45-70, I loved my 243 savage, and I've got an offset on it, but I also have to have a big muzzle break and the barrel isn't threaded. So I know for me it's gotta have an offset AND a big break. Which is why I stuck to the AR platforms.
The 338 has an offset scope, a big brake, and a custom buffer tube recoil arrestor. It's bolt action tho so no one can claim it cud be a machine gun. If I could fit one of these to an ar and not get in trouble, that alone will take a big chunk of the recoil out. But we can't, and if braces do end up in the bad list I'll have further limited options.

My 20g and 12g are probably never going to be shot by me again tho!

I do shoot reduced loads tho in everything. Generally right at the starting load in the book. I suppose its not really reduced, but its probably far below factory ammo. I don't  try to reach a particular velocity. I load it, chrono it, and then start gathering data. As long as the bullet is stable,  I'll stick with that load. Brass lasts longer and it's less fatigue on me. Any factory 308 ammobl that gets shot in the 308, my wife usually does. Then I'll reload it to the lower 7.62 and shoot it after that.

Ide be happy to print an offset mount and mail for you to try. Or the buffer spring mod. Every little bit helps.

Take care!