I know some will advise another pack.  Fair enough.  I'm not suggesting anyone run out and buy a CFP-90 pack.  That said, and aside from the inherent problems discussed below, the CFP-90 pack, by itself, is a rather decent "large" GI pack, IMHO.

In the event one already has a CFP-90 pack, and one finds the pack suitable, repairing it might be far less costly than buying a new pack. That's up to the user.

This is intended to be a fun and perhaps informative exercise for folks who already have CFP-90 packs, want to continue to use them, and who want to eliminate possible future problems.

With packs this old, the Polyurethane waterproofing coating will be deteriorating, flaking off, and stinking in the process.  This can be dealt-with, to varying degrees of success/effort/expense.  Let's set that relatively minor and non-structural issue aside for now.

Primary Points Of Failure (POF) on the CFP-90 is the black plastic "Duckfoot" which anchors the shoulder straps to the plastic track attached to the pack.  The plastic track allows easy adjustability of the shoulder strap assembly.  

Secondary POF is the black plastic track itself.  I have read from posters suing the CFP-90 in very cold climates that the plastic was not sensitive to cold temps.  Fair enough.  I do know that the later Molle plastic frames were re-formulated with different plastics intended to be cold-temp resistant.  Let's just say that I have some "reservations" about the durability of the original CFP-90 plastic track.

I have repaired the "duckfoot" with a custom-made aluminum unit, with 3 milled slots on the upper edges which accept webbing straps which were sewn onto the detached shoulder straps.  This works in conjunction with the original and undamaged plastic track.  That was my idea.  It works well as long as the plastic track is undamaged.

Since then, I have watched multiple Youtube videos provided by folks who have taken different approaches.  Some had the "duckfoot" fail, some had the plastic track fail, some both.

Some reinforce the (unbroken) "duckfoot" with sheet metal, reinforcing it and the shoulder strap attachment points with rivets/screws.

Some do away with the track altogether and rivet an aluminum "duckfoot" or "platform" for the shoulder straps to the reinforced dorsal side of the pack.

Some remove the CFP-90 shoulder straps, waist belt, and plastic track completely and sew-on buckled attachment straps to the sides of their CFP-90 pack so as to use a MOLLE 2 pack frame with its' waist belt and shoulder straps.

Each of these approaches has positive and negative points.

I'm aware of civvy-made copies of the CFP-90 made with a PALS-like system of webbing for adjustment of the shoulder strap system.  Not so common nowadays, and perhaps of "questionable" quality.  

Will add some relevant YT vids and threads as I have time.

Some text and video solutions:  My solution  

CFP-90/MOLLE Hybrid

Another Solution

Another Approach

Tagged for interest.

i would say that to me the juice isn't worth the squeeze. The general issue FPLIF is not a good, cheap, compatible with webbing pack.
Not good enough to be a military pack, not good enough for a hiking pack and even if you buy it still working plastic is going to deteriorate soon enough, considering that the straps attachment point are a point of strong stress. I think newer ones have post 2010 contract dates.


I have atleast a half dozen of the later experimental ones that already have the plastic back part (the brown sleeping compartment ones FY86 made by adventure specialist, FY88 experimental ones by tritek corporation and one made by Vector identical to the issue one). all are busted, it would be nice to repair them just for show. I also have a brand new issue one i paid a whopping 6.50$ for it which is in a box somewhere, i should check if it deteriorated.
I just casually watched the videos and i think i made the same to one of my ones, bolting the shoulder straps to a metal plate in a fixed position. A very crude 0$ solution made from scrap materials.
I wouldn't invest a significant amount of money in it, but i live in europe and basically every army had its version of a mountain ruck copied from the lowe alpine saracen or the berghaus vulcan which can be bought for a reasonable amount of money. That said however instead of a FPLIF i could buy a 90's / 2000's civilian used hiking pack which is better and wears the same as the military one for the same amount of money if not for less.

Attaching it to a molle or some other kind of frame? sure, but you could stick every kind of pack to the frame with a little rigging, even a Mounted Crewman Compartmented Equipment Bag or a potato sack if you like it. That defeats the whole purpose of the pack suspension system.

However i would like atleast to repair some of mine and i will save the videos. I already knew about this guy who made a good looking work in my opinion.
part 1
part 2

Fixing-improving a CFP-90 is (unless you're doing it yourself with your own mchines) a waste of time.

There are better surplus ruck systems available (US and Euro), with and without MOLLE) that you can swap on maybe a half-dozen different excellent frames.

Reply to two posts above:

Joe, that repair looks "bombproof" as long as the pack's fabric is suitably reinforced by glued-on additional fabric, IMHO.  The reinforcement(s) would be "sandwiched" in between the aluminum or stainless steel repair plates.  With such relatively thin repair plates, I >>think<< stainless steel would be more durable than alumium, and the weight difference would be scant.
IMHO, the waist belt and shoulder straps on even the GI issue MOLLE 2 frame are an improvement over same OEM items on the CFP-90 pack.  I understand that there are even better frames and waistbelts/shoulder straps available.  That's up to the user's budget; the GI woodland camo shoulder straps and waist belt still being both available and cheap.  Improved MOLLE frame to round out the ensemble, also cheap.

Sinister, you're right.  LOTS of modern alternatives available.  As I said in OP above, this is a "technical exercise" for folks who already own a CFP-90 and wish to tinker with it to bring it back into reliable service.  Some of those folks might have more time than money, so perhaps this thread will be of help to them.

I confess to being an inveterate and unrepentant Tinkerer.  I actually enjoy re-working and improving things like the CFP-90 pack.  It's understood that many folks will not be willing/able to make the repairs suggested above.  At least there are some reasonable repair measures available to the folks who wish to make such repairs.  To each his own.

Just to make clear, and to repeat, I'm NOT suggesting anyone run out and buy a USGI CFP-90 pack.  OTOH, if one is already owned, then perhaps some of the suggestions in this thread will be useful to the owners.

It's nice to have options, don't you think?

My FPLIF Ruck I stripped off the junk plastic Torso Track adjustment track, reconfigured the ruck with horizontal 1" webbing and a vertical 2" OD scuba web strap (cut from an older Litter Tie Down Strap) like the original Lowe Torso Ladder suspension system.  Vertical 2" scuba webbing is sewn through the ruck back and a piece of Hypalon, you can use another piece of 2" Mil-W-17337 nylon webbing instead of Hypalon, serves the same purpose.
(This is OV Innovation's same conversion of a Lowe Alpine LCS84 to the Torso Ladder Suspension)
Attached File

The shoulder straps I had to replace the top 2" wide nylon Mil-W-4088 webbing with new, integrating a steel 2" triglide buckle, same buckle used on the General Purpose Strap in use from late WWII to GWOT for the 2qt Canteen and other applications.
 Original Lumbar Pad foam had to be replaced, the Torso Ladder Suspension has two lengths of 2" wide OD loop Velcro sewn overtop the stave tunnels.
 You have to remove part of  the stitching for the internal radio pocket (or totally remove update the ruck with MOLLE style buckles to use the MOLLE Radio Carrier, if ever needed.

The tunnels for the 1" x 0.25" aluminum staves is formed by the 2" webbing sewn vertically, and the 1" nylon webbing sewn horizontally.   The 2" velcro for the lumbar pad is sewn overtop the 1" and 2" webbing right overtop the stave tunnels.    The 1" horizontals was somewhat easy to do with a WWII era Singer 269W 42-stitch bartacker.

 By time you spend hours doing all this it is still an outdated design, unless a Boy Scout Troop or Civil Air Patrol Squadron got some donated by Uncle Sam that need to be refurbished before use, its not really practical.
 My photos are on my other laptop.

Edit: This is an example of the OD/Camo Green 483 nylon "scuba webbing" Litter Strap.  Make sure you buy a nylon version. You can do at least 4 CFP90s with one strap, maybe more:   Scuba Webbing Litter Strap

This 2" suspension strap takes most of the loaded ruck weight.  Some of these CPF90s were made from 500d Cordura for the Woodland Camo upper bag and OD or CG483 for the lower fartsack compartment.    The 500d Cordura wasn't exactly the best, you will find runs in the weave, you need to back the anchor point stitching with either nylon webbing, hypalon or several layers of 1000d cordura nylon or the stitching is going to tear through the 500d Cordura fabric under stress like running, dropping your FPLIF on Hook, Pile Tape aka Parachutist Lowering Line Assembly.  My scuba webbing, I was able to fold under the cut end at the anchor point, your home machines may not be able to penetrate 2 layers of scuba webbing, the ruck bag Cordura nylon AND the backing material/webbing.

Oh man, love it or hate it, the CFP-90 generates strong opinions.  Is it possible?  Yes.  Is it practical?  Eh, yeah, but only if you like to do this kind of stuff.  

First off, I just want to say, once it's modified, I found it to be one of the most comfortable military rucks I've ever humped.  Heresy!  I know, but it was true.  I did a very similar mod to Sierra63Alpha, but I used the Gregory style ladder rack (cobbed directly from their "Snowcreek" pack).  This entailed completely disassembling the damn thing.  Which is what I do.  And which is what you may not want to do.  But to Raf's point, if a bunch of them fall into your lap (as did mine), then it makes an excellent base to work from.

The basic bag and harness is very good; in the rough, but very good.   The way the harness attaches to the bag is, well, sub-optimal.  There have been many solutions to this, and some even work.  The other problem was the bottom shoulder strap attachment to the bag; some of these were done very poorly and tore out if you looked at it crossly.  So, the raw material is there; you just have to modify it to get it's full potential.  Is the juice worth the squeeze?  That's up to you.  For me, sure, you are getting a really good rucksack, for long range reconnaissance, at a very good price; just add labor and blamo!  For someone else?  Again, depending on your resources, your mission, and even time available, may be or maybe not.

So to re-cap, if you modify it with either the original Lowe Alpine ladder rack, or even the Gregory one, it made a very good ruck.  If you keep the USGI track/yoke/duckfoot/etc. you may or may not have a good ruck.  It's not as comfortable, and has potential failure points.  Suffice it to say, it has been overtaken by much better designs, that are probably available and just as cheap.  However, as compared to a ILBE, FILBE, Molle Large, etc. is has a certain simplicity that I like, IF you fix some issues.  

This is sorta like a British rag top sports car, back in the 60's-70's;  helluva lot of fun, IF you can work on it, and fix a lot of short-comings.

I agree completely with Diz on his comments above.  His analogy concerning Brit Sports Cars is particularly apt. Having worked on many of them while a professional mechanic, I have always owned Japanese sports cars; 69 Datsun 2000, 83 Honda CRX Si, and current 96 Mazda Miata.
When I re-built the engine on my 68 Volvo, I made a point of using modern (aftermarket) seals/gaskets to replace the OEM Brit-style oil seals/gaskets.  That Volvo engine never leaked a drop of oil.

Again, this thread was posted as a "technical exercise" and intended to be a source of knowledge for folks wishing to modify/repair their already-owned CFP-90 packs.

Many options are available.  Perhaps with the Mods/Repairs suggested within this thread, now more options than before.  Always nice to have options.

ETA:  I've noticed that the edges of the fabric on the insides of the CFP-90 are often worn, and un-raveling.  The fabric edges "ought" to have been sealed and taped in order to avoid un-taped fabric edges from being abraded, and subsequent un-raveling, likely causing a seam "Blow-Out".  Didn't happen with the CFP-90, nor any ALICE packs I've seen.  Perfect example of cost-cutting that comes back to bite one in the future.

If you have a CFP-90, STRONGLY suggest removing the aluminum stays (mark them carefully in order to replace them) and turn the pack inside out.  Go over every Inch of internal fabric seams and sear them to prevent future unravelling.  If you discover that the fabric has unraveled past the point of a viable edge-searing of the fabric, then you have problems which can only be addressed by a competent pack repair person, with proper sewing machines and thread.

I have seen the same "unraveling" of the edges of many ALICE packs (and other items) over time.  In most cases, a simple searing of the edges of the exposed fabric is all that's needed to allow the item to have many years of life added to it.

Seam "Blow-Outs" with GI gear were mostly due to cost-cutting measures (not taping exposed fabric edges) and quite possibly failure to adequately sear the bare edges of the fabric.  Mfrs will cut any corner possible, and some cost-cutting is impossible to see.

I'm no "Expert" but I would opine that if the edge of the fabric is about 1/4" from the stitching, and the edge of the fabric can be seared by careful use of multiple Bic lighters (change them out as the lighter becomes too hot) then you >>probably<< are OK.  Cut off loose threads over 1/4" long.

Anyone using USGI gear can benefit from this advice.

All best wishes!  @Diz





 

Ha you know how many hours I spent working on a Triumph Spitfire!?  Luckily for me there were two in the junk yard I used, including one full race modified.  But that's another story.

On seams and seam tape.  Hoo boy.  I think I've told this story before but bears repeating.  The Teams (and I mean Team 5 specifically, before the big expansion), were using Lowe Alpine packs.  This is around '86 timeframe.  Before FAST ropes, they used double GI static lines to helo rapel.  Another rope was used for the rucks, that the crew chief slung out behind you.  Well long story short, from about 70', the seams were splitting upon hitting the ground.  I'm not sure if this was a design flaw on the old Loco rucks (as they were pretty damn good in normal use) or if the frogs were just being too hard on their gear.  Anyways, they shopped around and found Gregory.  Wayne took a look at it, and made them rucks with quad-drupel-stitched main seams (double stitched, then seamed taped with a double needle).  Those took the dive and stayed together.  That is an extreme example, but bomb-proof design.  

And of course, the mil contract, lowest winning bidders did no such thing when they made the CFP-90.  But after hearing this story from the Gregory's (they used to have a brick and mortar store in San Diego), this is exactly what I did on my modification.  Taping the raw seams that Raf is talking about makes a HUGE difference in strength.  If you look at parachute work, that is how they get away with such light material, and not have it tear apart upon opening.  It's a combination of seam tape, and "E" thread (or no. 69/Tex 70 for you civilians).

All very true.  Folks without access to sewing experts (or their own sewing skills) can always use multiple Bic lighters (don't let the lighter get TOO hot) to sear the worn/raw edges of fabric, and so reduce the un-raveling of the fabric.  Cut off loose threads over 1/8 long.  Not a substitute for "proper" remediations nor proper initial construction but searing the edges of the raw fabric  on many GI items (and others) can and will extend the life of the item.  With items carrying scant load, such as many pouches, searing of raw fabric edges might all that is necessary to extend the life of the fabric item far into the future.  With packs carrying heavy loads, searing of raw edges of the fabric will help greatly, but not a substitute for proper initial manufacture.  It's definitely well worth doing.

FWIW, I examine every item I buy, and turn all of them inside-out for a proper inspection, and possible remediation.  YMMV.

Some ostensibly "top-tier" items are sold with some considerable "remediation" being required, while "lower-tier" items require little remediation.  I expect that such "remediation" says little about the long-term durability of the items, but says more about the mind-set of the Mfr.

FWIW, "Remediation" involves searing all edges of raw fabric and melting loose threads.  Melting a loose thread, and then giving a "pat" to the molten end of the thread provides a "mushroom head" on the thread and prevents the "mushroomed" thread from unravelling.

Yes, I admit to being one who "remediates" gear.  No apologies.

All Best wishes!

I’m not sure a CFP-90 can rationally justify expenditure to repair.

A USMC ILBE pack is similar, but far better, and easy to find under $100.

The SPEARS pack is bigger, but similar, and also way better. They used to sell high but the interest is gone now.

CFP-90 is not trustworthy with a heavy load in the back country, but a 5 minute search found this one.

Link

I bet it gets no other bids if you wait until the last minute to bid.

The post-ALICE, pre-MOLLE stuff like CFP-90 or LBV gets no love at all.

I don't disagree with you.  Repairing a CFP-90 is possible, but will take some work, although likely scant expense.

FWIW, I already "remediated" (See above for description of "remediation") my CFP-90, as well as making a custom-made aluminum "Frog's Foot" to replace the very deficient OEM plastic item.

So far, after some years, it has managed to hold up well.

Just for explanation, I own the FILBE pack, the MOLLE 1 and MOLLE 2 packs, as well as the USMC ILBE pack.  I've used them all.  They all have their positive points and negative points.  I've also done the "Hellcat" mods to both Large and Med Alice packs.

I also own, and have used, the MOLLE "Medium" pack as well as the ABN MOLLE pack.  Also have used all the Army and USMC "Assault" and "Patrol" packs.

IMHO, the USMC "Recon/Medic" pack is the best of these smaller packs, but it is rare and costly.  Inserts for such packs are yet another cost.

Also used some WW 2 USMC and Army packs of various descriptions.  Details available on request.

So, I have a little experience with such packs, although I'm no "expert" and I'm always ready to learn.


The USMC ILBE pack, despite it's not playing well with hard armor, is likely the best of the bunch, IMHO, as long as the user can find and use the "correct" size waistbelt.  The "Large" ILBE waist belts being uncommon.

The FILBE and the nearly identical Army MOLLE 2 packs do play well with armor, on account of their frames designed to do so.

If my CFP-90 pack's plastic "Torso-Track" item fails, I think I will look into sewing some very carefully located straps onto the sides of the CFP-90 which would allow it to be attached to a modern (and cheap) MOLLE 2 frame.  The better MOLLE 2 shoulder harness, and the better waist belt are also significant improvements over same items on the CFP-90.  I understand that some folks will not choose to go this route and buy other packs and frames.

Still, it's nice to have choices, I think.

Owners of the early FILBE pack should note that significant and mandatory upgrades to their shoulder straps have been made--as per USMC.  Folks owning surplus items, lacking such improvements, take note.  Repair kits are available; See this vendor for various USMC FILBE repair parts (more than one kit required per pack): Vendor

Vendor above also has some useful items for ALICE packs.

As an addendum, when searing "Irish pennants" (Marine slang for loose threads), another thing you can do is use some sort of seam sealer (like McNett's legacy "Seam Grip") to set the stitching in place, and prevent unravelling of the fabric.  Not as good as seam taping but better than nothing.  

It is possible to seam tape about 95% of a surplus pack, with minimal tear down, so if you can find a good stitch bitch, and a case of beer, this would be an excellent upgrade.  

When we talk about mods to these old surplus packs, there are lots of considerations.  One is the increasing popularity of legacy woodland camo.  If you're into that, then this platform might be worth a look.  Combined with the AWS special edition woodland assault pack, you'd have a decent system.  And perhaps even the Med ALICE "radio" pack.  

Another is what your fighting loadout looks like.  "Alpine" packs are generally long rectangles, whereas classic "ALICE" type military packs are generally more square-shaped.  If you are running a chest rig type of load out, the Alpine pack works well.  If you are running a belt kit type load the ALICE type works well.  Also referred to as "long back", and "short back" style of packs.  

And another is what terrain you're running around in.  In deep woodlands/jungles, are more square-shaped ruck, with lower, smoother lid penetrates bush much better than a tall one.  In mountains, a taller, thinner on the sides pack works better for climbing and arm movement.  

External frames generally work better for heavy military loads, and leave space on your back in hot weather.  Internal frames generally are more comfortable, and better balanced on you in hilly terrain.  They also work well in colder weather.  

So where does all this leave us.  Well, if you are going back to woodland camo, live in mountainous, colder terrain, and prefer chest rigs to belt kit, this might be a good choice.  If you live in deep woodlands, with heat and humidity, and like belt kits, not so much.  

If I lived up Raf's way, and there was a possibility of cross-country skiing/ snow shoeing, this pack and the FLC would make a dandy combination.  This is what several Nordic countries do in winter.  

Certainly not an off-the-shelf solution, but entirely doable.  The raw material is there to work with.