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6/25/2018 7:04:05 PM
Posted: 6/25/2018 8:50:28 PM EDT
What epoxy would you use? I've seen some folks here have done such a mod.

Something that will hold, but won't eat into the housing?
Link Posted: 6/26/2018 3:34:08 PM EDT
What is the clip or whatever made from?
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 1:16:35 AM EDT
^ this. You really need to match your adhesive to your material type. What do you mean by adapter clip - have a picture?
Link Posted: 6/27/2018 10:49:17 PM EDT
This is the adapter clip

Appears to be a synthetic material.

Y'all are going to laugh your asses off, but before even considering epoxying it, I wanted to get an idea of how it would mount to the Rhino if I did try to epoxy them together, and if it would be properly positioned to be useable... so I once again played King of Zip Ties and banded them together using a 50lb tie and two 18 pound ties. Things do line up, and I even went for a little hike last night with it mounted to my helmet, and it works.

I tried previous suggestions about talking to a member who was a machinist. Told him what I thought I needed, sent some photos, haven't heard back. So it looks like my choice is epoxy something like this to the unit, spend $300 plus on a custom mount for the unit, or Ghetto it with either zip ties holding the unit and the adapter together or zip tie the mount from the skull crusher to the helmet (main problem with this approach is there is no quick on or off the helmet. You really need to take the helmet off to use it).

I impulsively traded for this unit because of all the ragging to upgrade from Gen 1+, just didn't realize what a shitty mount option it had.

Link Posted: 6/28/2018 6:12:39 AM EDT
No one is going to see that in the dark.

I will soon post my scrapyard nvg setup here, just waiting for the tube to arrive at last. It has epoxy, zip ties, double sided tape, scavenged components from home appliances...
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 6:48:59 AM EDT
Epoxy likely isnt going to give you the strength you need unless you apply it really thick. I would also look at thermoplastic inserts or even drilling small holes into the top of the housing and that mount and bolt them together as well as a 2 part epoxy adhesive and you may want to sand both surfaces so the epoxy has something to stick to.

I converted a pvs7 to a dovetail mount using the solution above and that mount is rock solid.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 7:44:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/28/2018 8:01:50 AM EDT by rlltd42]
I did some reading on the Newcon Optik proprietary mount the you have. Buried in one of the Q & A pages on nightvisionguys.com someone asked a question if an Armasight mini-rail to bayonet adapter would fit the Newcon Optik and they said it would. That's not much of a guarantee, but an Armasight Adapter (if I'm looking at the right one) is around $30

https://www.amazon.com/Armasight-Swing-Mini-Bayonet-Mount/dp/B00AP7X0CI

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Armasight-Swing-Arm-59-for-Bayonet-Mounts-ANAM000034/332545366967?epid=1904082381&hash=item4d6d3f9bb7:g:FbcAAOSwSbxbMHq3

ETA: If the $30 is too much to gamble you could poke around for a used one or a vendor that accepts returns.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 8:49:15 AM EDT
If you do epoxy it, there's some things to increase the strength of the joint. Drill small holes (maybe 4) and use small pins to stabilize and strengthen the joint. This alone will greatly increase the chances of the joint holding up to stress. Use a good press fit on the pins (you should have to knock it on lightly with a mallet). The next step up would be to use some fine screws, if there's space available. You can greatly increase the strength of the epoxy by using a filler, such as fiberglass, or alum or steel powder. With polymers I would lean towards fiberglass. I would also lean towards a good epoxy, like Devcon, used to bed synthetic rifle stocks. See Brownells, Midway for ideas/details.

I would definitely use a good lanyard with any mod like this.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 1:42:39 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By rlltd42:
I did some reading on the Newcon Optik proprietary mount the you have. Buried in one of the Q & A pages on nightvisionguys.com someone asked a question if an Armasight mini-rail to bayonet adapter would fit the Newcon Optik and they said it would. That's not much of a guarantee, but an Armasight Adapter (if I'm looking at the right one) is around $30

https://www.amazon.com/Armasight-Swing-Mini-Bayonet-Mount/dp/B00AP7X0CI

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Armasight-Swing-Arm-59-for-Bayonet-Mounts-ANAM000034/332545366967?epid=1904082381&hash=item4d6d3f9bb7:g:FbcAAOSwSbxbMHq3

ETA: If the $30 is too much to gamble you could poke around for a used one or a vendor that accepts returns.
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$30 really isn't a lot to risk at all, but I'm not seeing how that would attach to the unit as I can't see the bottom of it.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 1:43:43 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Diz:
If you do epoxy it, there's some things to increase the strength of the joint. Drill small holes (maybe 4) and use small pins to stabilize and strengthen the joint. This alone will greatly increase the chances of the joint holding up to stress. Use a good press fit on the pins (you should have to knock it on lightly with a mallet). The next step up would be to use some fine screws, if there's space available. You can greatly increase the strength of the epoxy by using a filler, such as fiberglass, or alum or steel powder. With polymers I would lean towards fiberglass. I would also lean towards a good epoxy, like Devcon, used to bed synthetic rifle stocks. See Brownells, Midway for ideas/details.

I would definitely use a good lanyard with any mod like this.
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Oh yeah, I was already planning on a good lanyard, and there are bungee attachment points on the unit.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 1:45:40 PM EDT
Depending on screw placement this might indeed work.

Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:41:24 PM EDT
Called Armasight, the measurement on the adapter holes looks like it will work. Ordered one off eBay for $29 shipped and 8% back in eBay bucks. Keeping my fingers crossed, thank you!
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:48:40 PM EDT
Looks good. After you test fit it I would still epoxy the bitch in place; at least down the screw holes; Loctite might hold but don't know if I'd trust it on polymer. That way you know it's gonna stay on. Not that I think Murphy was an optimist, but you know.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:52:27 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Diz:
Looks good. After you test fit it I would still epoxy the bitch in place; at least down the screw holes; Loctite might hold but don't know if I'd trust it on polymer. That way you know it's gonna stay on. Not that I think Murphy was an optimist, but you know.
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The screw holes are brass inserts, screws are steel... but yes, I will Loctite it and use bungees or a lanyard.
Link Posted: 6/28/2018 3:58:17 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By HiramRanger:
Called Armasight, the measurement on the adapter holes looks like it will work. Ordered one off eBay for $29 shipped and 8% back in eBay bucks. Keeping my fingers crossed, thank you!
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Sounds good--I'd still hook it up to a lanyard though. Will probably work better than plan 1.0 and probably cheaper too.
Link Posted: 7/2/2018 9:58:08 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By chosos:
Epoxy likely isnt going to give you the strength you need unless you apply it really thick. I would also look at thermoplastic inserts or even drilling small holes into the top of the housing and that mount and bolt them together as well as a 2 part epoxy adhesive and you may want to sand both surfaces so the epoxy has something to stick to.

I converted a pvs7 to a dovetail mount using the solution above and that mount is rock solid.
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@chosos I would like to know more. Got pics or a link to a post about it, perhaps?
Link Posted: 7/3/2018 11:44:54 AM EDT
I received a PVS-7 housing in trade that was in great shape, but had a non-functional mount. I was always itching to try this mod, but didn't want to destroy a perfectly fine housing, so this worked perfectly! I 3D printed a spacer and used thermal / ultra sonic threaded inserts with the PVS-7 housing to take a bulk of the stress. Plus they all got epoxied together on each side of the adapter to make a rock solid mounting platform. I already had the 3D printed file because I made a dovetail mount for an ATN PS15 in the past that I also converted over to dovetail instead of the stock ATN mount. The 3D printed adapter is solid ABS, so it is rock solid. I've driven over one of my printed battery boxes and it was fine.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 4:33:37 PM EDT
@hiramranger

did it work?
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 4:55:50 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By rlltd42:
@hiramranger

did it work?
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Adapter has not arrived yet, slow ass shipping
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 5:36:30 PM EDT
http://marinetex.com/products/
Link Posted: 7/11/2018 9:44:27 PM EDT
Adapter arrived... screw holes line up... but I need to use the front set and not the rear set. With the adapter attached to the rear set, the unit doesn’t come back far enough to get the optimal field of view when using a Rhino 2 mount.

I’m going to go to Home Depot tomorrow and see if I can find some slightly longer screws. My plan is then to reattach the original mounting to the unit via the rear screw holes and pass through the front screw holes and attach the adapter as a pass through of the original mounting plate. That should push it forward enough that I can get optimal positioning while also raising it up off the unit enough to allow the clip to attach to the Rhino. Just wondering how hard it will be to find the right screws. And I have no idea what thread pitch they are, hoping Home Depot has a way of figuring that out from one of the existing screws.



Link Posted: 7/12/2018 1:48:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/12/2018 1:52:26 PM EDT by fmj_shooter]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By HiramRanger:
Adapter arrived... screw holes line up... but I need to use the front set and not the rear set. With the adapter attached to the rear set, the unit doesn’t come back far enough to get the optimal field of view when using a Rhino 2 mount.

I’m going to go to Home Depot tomorrow and see if I can find some slightly longer screws. My plan is then to reattach the original mounting to the unit via the rear screw holes and pass through the front screw holes and attach the adapter as a pass through of the original mounting plate. That should push it forward enough that I can get optimal positioning while also raising it up off the unit enough to allow the clip to attach to the Rhino. Just wondering how hard it will be to find the right screws. And I have no idea what thread pitch they are, hoping Home Depot has a way of figuring that out from one of the existing screws.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/218/F0368A40-332E-415B-9A86-642D0BAC1FCA-604849.jpg

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/218/A421A646-3821-4265-A6B3-52351CCA6E75-604850.jpg
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@HiramRanger

Your local hardware store (and probably Home Depot) should have a screw/thread checker hanging around somewhere with the nuts/bolts. They look like an aluminum plate with a bunch of threaded holes that you can screw a sample bolt into to check its size and thread pitch.

Looks like this.

Link Posted: 7/12/2018 1:53:29 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By fmj_shooter:

@HiramRanger

Your local hardware store (and probably Home Deport) should have a screw/thread checker hanging around somewhere with the nuts/bolts. They look like an aluminum plate with a bunch of threaded holes that you can screw a sample bolt into to check its size and thread pitch.

Looks like this.

http://www.wttool.com/common/images/product/main/12890081.jpg
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Thanks, one of my customers is a mechanical engineer. I'm expecting him to come in within the next couple of days. I may just hand him one of the screws and tell him, "find me some of these 1/8" longer!

This is as far back as I can get it with the helmet. Too far forward.

Link Posted: 7/12/2018 2:38:15 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By HiramRanger:

Thanks, one of my customers is a mechanical engineer. I'm expecting him to come in within the next couple of days. I may just hand him one of the screws and tell him, "find me some of these 1/8" longer!

This is as far back as I can get it with the helmet. Too far forward.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/218/Mounted-605401.jpg
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The struggle is real. I'd be going nuts getting that close to be held up by a screw.

I bought the dovetail converted PVS7 above from member chosos, but haven't picked up a dovetail compatible mount. I'm flush with Original Rhinos though, so I made it work for a test drive for now.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/12/2018 3:34:08 PM EDT
Go to Fastenal, they will have what you need.
Link Posted: 7/14/2018 6:02:38 PM EDT
OK, my engineer friend came up with a pretty elegant and robust solution. I’m still going to use a lanyard for safety in case the adapter gives in, but he utilized some washers from some high end audio equipment that provided stability and a level fit, allowing for a third point of contact on the unit housing. It’s still not as far back as I’d like, but it’s significantly better.

We are talking about a solution involving fabricating a new mounting plate which would provide more adjustment, but for the time being, this seems to work.







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