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Posted: 1/15/2019 1:22:32 AM EDT
[#1]
Can you manually push the shell latches and get it to release a shell? If I remember right on the 870 there is a primary and secondary shell stop, see if you can tell which side is hanging it up.
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Posted: 1/15/2019 8:03:34 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you manually push the shell latches and get it to release a shell? If I remember right on the 870 there is a primary and secondary shell stop, see if you can tell which side is hanging it up. It's also missing the front bead sight, so I'll end up ordering that as well, and probably a new magazine spring but If I would help, I can order 2 shell latches and replace both if it's suggested. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 9:24:31 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, and after closer inspection it appears that the left side is the one keeping it from feeding. The right side goes in normally when the pump is pumped but its catching on the left side. Does that mean that the left latch is the part I should order? It's also missing the front bead sight, so I'll end up ordering that as well, and probably a new magazine spring but If I would help, I can order 2 shell latches and replace both if it's suggested. Have you broken it down to look for debris behind the shell latch, to make sure that the action bars look OK, and that it’s assembled correctly? If they got the action bars behind the latch somehow that would prevent it from working. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 6:56:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m sorry but I’m not an 870 guy so I’m kinda guessing here. Have you broken it down to look for debris behind the shell latch, to make sure that the action bars look OK, and that it’s assembled correctly? If they got the action bars behind the latch somehow that would prevent it from working. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 7:05:09 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm pretty out of my depth here as well, but I cleaned it really well, but I have not been able to remove the shell catch (I think that's what they are called) from the receiver. However after field stripping it again, and trying to understand exactly how its supposed to work I noticed something. It appears that one of the shell catches is not working right, or not positioned correctly. When the pump engages the catch, it drops but only about 1/8th of an inch and then the second bar catches it again and keeps it from feeding. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 7:11:46 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There may be a YouTube video explaining how to adjust that shell stop but you may be better off finding a local smith to do it for you. That's a common problem and should be cheap. It comes from not depressing the shell stops when reassembling the slide assembly and bending it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I'm pretty out of my depth here as well, but I cleaned it really well, but I have not been able to remove the shell catch (I think that's what they are called) from the receiver. However after field stripping it again, and trying to understand exactly how its supposed to work I noticed something. It appears that one of the shell catches is not working right, or not positioned correctly. When the pump engages the catch, it drops but only about 1/8th of an inch and then the second bar catches it again and keeps it from feeding. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 7:13:55 PM EDT
[#7]
Norinco/Hawk 982 parts should be compatible. IIRC the Pardner is made by Norinco.
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Posted: 1/15/2019 9:01:50 PM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 1/15/2019 9:06:50 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There may be a YouTube video explaining how to adjust that shell stop but you may be better off finding a local smith to do it for you. That's a common problem and should be cheap. It comes from not depressing the shell stops when reassembling the slide assembly and bending it. I took a pic of the difference in length, but what's odd is the trigger group pin holes align perfectly so it had to come from the manufacturer like that, which makes me question if its not supposed to be like that, and I'm missing something else. But I have been able to get it to load,by manually pushing in the left side bar, and cycling the pump. |
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Posted: 1/15/2019 9:47:54 PM EDT
[#10]
They actually look ok to me. Reassemble it and make sure you depress each one as you put the slide assembly back in. Then post a pic with the bolt closed.
First get a pic of the one on the left in your pic. Take it from the right side angled so I can see the flat side of it. |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 5:34:08 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They actually look ok to me. Reassemble it and make sure you depress each one as you put the slide assembly back in. Then post a pic with the bolt closed. First get a pic of the one on the left in your pic. Take it from the right side angled so I can see the flat side of it. (please excuse the dog hair, my dog is shedding like crazy and likes to lay on my blanket)  Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 7:49:41 AM EDT
[#12]
Check the fore arm to make sure it is fully seated on the action tube and the forearm nut is tight. This issue looks similar to a 870 problem of the forearm being forward (not fully seated) which keeps the action from fully opening/closing.
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Posted: 1/16/2019 10:53:01 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I took some more pics, and a short video to hopefully explain it a little better. (please excuse the dog hair, my dog is shedding like crazy and likes to lay on my blanket)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SYhO81P6Lg |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 5:42:04 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Check the fore arm to make sure it is fully seated on the action tube and the forearm nut is tight. This issue looks similar to a 870 problem of the forearm being forward (not fully seated) which keeps the action from fully opening/closing.  Attached FileHeres a quick highlight of the parts I am guessing may be the problem based off of whats been suggested, and what I'm seeing it doing when cycled  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 5:44:37 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can't tell much without having it in hand. Do you have a good gunsmith that you're familiar with? I have a feeling I'm going to eventually run into the same problem my uncle did, which is it's going to cost more to fix than its worth |
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Posted: 1/16/2019 9:24:22 PM EDT
[#16]
Where in VA are you? I'm not a gunsmith, but Ive got both a pardner pump and an 870. I'm up in NOVA near Tysons Corner. I'd be happy to look at it with you to see if I can figure it out.
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Posted: 1/16/2019 10:33:40 PM EDT
[#17]
OP I wish you were close to me I have a smith that is cheap and good if I'm not able to sort it out.
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Posted: 1/16/2019 11:00:02 PM EDT
[#18]
RED ARROW- make sure the tube is inserted as far as possible into the forearm. The should be a shoulder inside the forearm GREEN ARROW that stops the tube's forward movement.
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Posted: 1/17/2019 12:17:24 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where in VA are you? I'm not a gunsmith, but Ive got both a pardner pump and an 870. I'm up in NOVA near Tysons Corner. I'd be happy to look at it with you to see if I can figure it out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where in VA are you? I'm not a gunsmith, but Ive got both a pardner pump and an 870. I'm up in NOVA near Tysons Corner. I'd be happy to look at it with you to see if I can figure it out. Quoted:
OP I wish you were close to me I have a smith that is cheap and good if I'm not able to sort it out. Quoted:
RED ARROW- make sure the tube is inserted as far as possible into the forearm. The should be a shoulder inside the forearm GREEN ARROW that stops the tube's forward movement. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/31644/sbhelp_JPG-810498.jpg 
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Posted: 1/17/2019 12:23:33 AM EDT
[#20]
My brother does have an 870, and recently changed his pump forearm out so I may try and swap pump forearms with him and check and see if that makes any difference.
Interesting side note, When I was doing some research and trying to identify fellow travelers with these problems I stumbled upon this review. What's interesting is my serial number predates the one shown in the review by roughly 400,000 which leads me to think its from early 2011 or 2010. Pardner 12g review. |
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Posted: 1/17/2019 12:31:02 AM EDT
[#21]
OP go to the Virginia hometown forum and ask if anyone can recommend a reputable smith in your area that is reasonable as well.
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Posted: 1/18/2019 9:28:40 AM EDT
[#22]
OK, Brother has a functioning 870, correct?
Then get together and disassemble the 870 on a table. Next swap each part ONE AT A TIME into your Pardner and function check. If the part doesn't work, remove it, put it on another table and move on to the next. If you don't find the culprit, do the reverse with Pardner parts/assemblies/ IIRC, the barrels are not interchangeable but most other major assemblies are. If you can eliminate the entire Trigger Group and Forend Assembly (by swapping them out in whole) as the cause of your problem, you will have significantly narrowed down the number of remaining possibilities. |
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Posted: 1/18/2019 9:55:22 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK, Brother has a functioning 870, correct? Then get together and disassemble the 870 on a table. Next swap each part ONE AT A TIME into your Pardner and function check. If the part doesn't work, remove it, put it on another table and move on to the next. If you don't find the culprit, do the reverse with Pardner parts/assemblies/ IIRC, the barrels are not interchangeable but most other major assemblies are. If you can eliminate the entire Trigger Group and Forend Assembly (by swapping them out in whole) as the cause of your problem, you will have significantly narrowed down the number of remaining possibilities. |
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Posted: 1/18/2019 11:46:55 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think the problem is in the shell stop or interrupter. Those are staked in. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OK, Brother has a functioning 870, correct? Then get together and disassemble the 870 on a table. Next swap each part ONE AT A TIME into your Pardner and function check. If the part doesn't work, remove it, put it on another table and move on to the next. If you don't find the culprit, do the reverse with Pardner parts/assemblies/ IIRC, the barrels are not interchangeable but most other major assemblies are. If you can eliminate the entire Trigger Group and Forend Assembly (by swapping them out in whole) as the cause of your problem, you will have significantly narrowed down the number of remaining possibilities. You Can replaces the staked in parts/restake. Or just install them. The trigger group should keep them in place. |
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Posted: 1/18/2019 11:47:27 AM EDT
[#25]
So, this statement has me perplexed;
"It will eject the round in the chamber (if you load it by hand) but will not feed anything from the magazine" So, I take it from this statement that without shells loaded in the mag tube, you can open the action and drop a shell in through the ejection port, correct? If so, then the action bar must be moving the shell stop out of the way to allow the bolt to move fully rearward after single shell loading the chamber. Unless the bar can move passed the shell stop without pushing it out of the way (I don't know, I am having a hard time visualizing this at my desk)? OP- I know you said you performed a good cleaning but did you really get in between the shell stop and the receiver?  OK, re-reading your posts, you can release the shell manually by using your finger to press the shell stop in towards the receiver, correct? If so, have you examined the area on the action bar that engages the shell stop to make sure it is cut properly, not worn? Maybe try the action bar/forend assembly from you brother's 870 and swap it in to see if that works. ETA- How about using a little layout fluid or even a purple sharpie to coat the areas that are supposed to engage and see where the problem is. I'm just swinging blind here 
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Posted: 1/18/2019 12:27:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Before you invest into replacement parts.
I found one of these pretty cheap. Uses the same parts and you get an extra barrel out of it https://www.cdnnsports.com/hawk-981-pump-12-gauge-28-inch.html#.XEH9ls9ME0M The $150 limit you set can get you a new gun. The barrel/Pardner parts should be compatible with the hawk receiver. So you would have an 18.5" barrel and a longer one if it came down to it.
Sorta tempted to grab one for parts myself. Even if you don't need the barrel I bet you can flip it for $80 easy |
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Posted: 1/18/2019 12:33:47 PM EDT
[#27]
That’s the rub. Unless it’s an easy fix yourself, it’s cheaper to replace the gun.
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Posted: 1/20/2019 12:33:08 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, this statement has me perplexed; "It will eject the round in the chamber (if you load it by hand) but will not feed anything from the magazine" So, I take it from this statement that without shells loaded in the mag tube, you can open the action and drop a shell in through the ejection port, correct? If so, then the action bar must be moving the shell stop out of the way to allow the bolt to move fully rearward after single shell loading the chamber. Unless the bar can move passed the shell stop without pushing it out of the way (I don't know, I am having a hard time visualizing this at my desk)? OP- I know you said you performed a good cleaning but did you really get in between the shell stop and the receiver? OK, re-reading your posts, you can release the shell manually by using your finger to press the shell stop in towards the receiver, correct? If so, have you examined the area on the action bar that engages the shell stop to make sure it is cut properly, not worn? Maybe try the action bar/forend assembly from you brother's 870 and swap it in to see if that works. ETA- How about using a little layout fluid or even a purple sharpie to coat the areas that are supposed to engage and see where the problem is. I'm just swinging blind here This is the one part that I am almost positive is causing the problem. Left side Shell latch. I'll have to ask my uncle some more about it, but from what I remember him saying was that it was given to him by a friend. He never mentioned shooting it, or doing anything with it because it wouldn't feed, and when I saw it it was thrown up on a shelf in his garage and I asked if it was an 870 and thats when he showed it to me, and asked if I knew how to fix it or could look at it. He mentioned that he had called Pardner years prior, and they had said to send it back to be repaired (I assume that it's probably long since out of warranty) and he had never gotten around to it. I have been just basically looking around for gunsmiths and getting some quotes, but the problem is what's already been said. It's going to cost at least 30 an hour plus parts from the one place I had work done previously, and that's assuming their smith knows how to fix this. A shop that does nothing but smithing, and could certainly fix it is going to charge 45 an hour, plus parts which brings me back to, the same problem my uncle had. Is it worth it to fix a Chinese 870 clone, when it's going to end up costing more than the guns worth. Hell I sold an 870 magnum for 120 bucks (I wanted 220) because it had a mismatched barrel on it. I'm almost certain the left shell latch is the problem, because I can load a shell in the tube, rack the gun back and if I depress the left latch by sticking my finger through the action, it will then release the round, and feed it perfectly into the chamber. I just can't figure out why one side is sticking like it is, and being staked brings a whole new problem to the table. The left side latch is definitely longer and I have no clue if its supposed to be that way or not |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 9:48:51 AM EDT
[#29]
It is slightly longer on mine. Check to make sure it doesnt have any crud behind it hampering it going back, and when you work the action, if the action bar engages it. (Try what another member suggested above, which is switch the action and forend with your brother's 870 and test the function.)
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Posted: 1/20/2019 10:08:44 AM EDT
[#30]
I know nothing, which never stops me from making suggestions:
- Wal Mart sells Pardners, go there and check out a new one to see if the latch is supposed to be longer. - Numrich sells used 870 ones for $15-$20 That part itslef seems to be functioning from your description - you push it with your finger, it releases a shell. If there is nothing behind it, blocking this from happening when working the action, it is functioning as deisgned, right? What is not functioning is the part that is supposed to force it back, releasing the shell. I think thats either the slide assembly or action bar (I think). As far as a gunsmith - my uncle has found an Amish gunsmith who charges essentially nothing - depending on where you are in VA that might be an option. Post a WTB in the EE shotgun parts here - guys have ridiculous stashes of 870 parts here! |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 11:52:39 AM EDT
[#31]
Can you see or feel any movement of the left latch when you cycle the action? (In your earlier video I could not see inside the action)
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Posted: 1/20/2019 10:48:25 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you see or feel any movement of the left latch when you cycle the action? (In your earlier video I could not see inside the action) What I had been doing was pushing the bar all the way out of the way, letting the shell move forward until it was resting on carrier and then when I finished pumping it, the round would chamber as it was supposed to. But after stripping it down to the bones again, cleaning it with a special focus on the shell latch (there's nothing behind it, that I can see but its staked so I can't remove it) I discovered something new. I don't have to push it in all the way to get it to cycle a round from the magazine. If I push it, probably no more than a couple millimeters, but with it still touching (however barely) it will feed as its supposed to. So now I have a theory on this. I think that the shell latch is bent inwards too much, and being as it's staked on one end it can't be bent backwards without removing it. I tried to get a couple videos because I don't think I'm explaining it well, so forgive the shaky cam as it's hard to film and cycle a shotgun one handed.  Failed To Load Title  Attached File Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 10:51:35 PM EDT
[#33]
I also checked out these videos, and for the first one I checked the alignment and it looks perfect and no movement could be made in the bar
 Fixing a Displaced Shell Latch - Remington 870 Tips & Tricks #8 Then I found this, showing how to stake one, so I may have to see if I can find this tool to borrow and just rip the left latch out, and restake it (assuming I can find one)  DIY Remington 870 Shell latch Staking |
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Posted: 1/20/2019 11:58:12 PM EDT
[#34]
Are those the right action bars? I know 870s have changed a few times over the years. Is that the factory foreend?
Here are 2 870s i have. 
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Posted: 1/21/2019 12:59:30 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are those the right action bars? I know 870s have changed a few times over the years. Is that the factory foreend? Here are 2 870s i have. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/49447/0478BE13-9C6A-43C1-87E9-4982764F6008-815572.jpg Side note, I did try and grab my brothers 870 pump and action bars, only to realize that he had simply replaced the furniture and not the entire piece so I'll have to see if I can go over and swap parts since the plastic forearm wasn't going to make a difference, since I would still be using my action bars. Action bars Although I do see what you mean, one looks correct, but on your's its on the other side then mine is  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/21/2019 5:20:58 AM EDT
[#36]
OP from what your saying about the shell stop not moving when you move the slide, I think you either have a broken shell stop, or it was put together without depressing said shell stop so that the action bars would actuate it.
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Posted: 1/22/2019 1:45:29 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP from what your saying about the shell stop not moving when you move the slide, I think you either have a broken shell stop, or it was put together without depressing said shell stop so that the action bars would actuate it. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 2:28:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think so, googling it comes up with a bunch that look just like my forearm and on a website that sells replacement parts it looks like mine. Side note, I did try and grab my brothers 870 pump and action bars, only to realize that he had simply replaced the furniture and not the entire piece so I'll have to see if I can go over and swap parts since the plastic forearm wasn't going to make a difference, since I would still be using my action bars. Action bars Although I do see what you mean, one looks correct, but on your's its on the other side then mine is https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/445346/e_png-815623.JPG |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 8:55:39 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I also checked out these videos, and for the first one I checked the alignment and it looks perfect and no movement could be made in the bar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP3k5RwzN7U
Then I found this, showing how to stake one, so I may have to see if I can find this tool to borrow and just rip the left latch out, and restake it (assuming I can find one) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKALQLRYflg |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 9:54:43 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you even have to RE-stake it? I have an old 870 beater that I picked up cheap years ago with a shell stop (left) and shell interupter (right) have broken away from their stakings. When I reassemble it after a detailed cleaning, I use a punch to align the holes for the trigger pins. They don't fall out (like on a Mossberg) they just slde back in forth in the receiver. |
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Posted: 1/23/2019 11:19:26 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wonder if they welded the action bars opposite by mistake? If you can get an 870 foreend to test. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I think so, googling it comes up with a bunch that look just like my forearm and on a website that sells replacement parts it looks like mine. Side note, I did try and grab my brothers 870 pump and action bars, only to realize that he had simply replaced the furniture and not the entire piece so I'll have to see if I can go over and swap parts since the plastic forearm wasn't going to make a difference, since I would still be using my action bars. Action bars Although I do see what you mean, one looks correct, but on your's its on the other side then mine is https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/445346/e_png-815623.JPG Seller is numrich, condition is new |
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Posted: 1/24/2019 3:10:20 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, the 870 shell latches do NOT have to staked in place to operate properly. As noted the trigger group pins will hold them in place – being staked in place just makes things much easier when it comes to reassembling the trigger group back into the receiver. |
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Posted: 1/24/2019 3:10:44 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I picked up a spare Pardner action tube assembly for $30 shipped on eBay. Seller is numrich, condition is new |
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Posted: 1/24/2019 3:50:18 AM EDT
[#44]
Will do, hopefully I'll have it tomorrow.
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Posted: 2/1/2019 6:30:08 PM EDT
[#45]
Pardner forend fit my hawk 982 perfectly. Should work the opposite way.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/5/2019 11:09:41 AM EDT
[#46]
@Seatbelts
While I share the concern for helping OP, no General Discussion style gifs or memes in tech please. bodybagger We can get through this! I have no doubt the ARFCOM Shotgun sub-forum can help you get this gun working at 100% with minimal cost. ETA- understood 
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Posted: 2/5/2019 2:36:34 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pardner forend fit my hawk 982 perfectly. Should work the opposite way. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/333164/IMG_20190128_175202088_LL_jpg-829557.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/333164/IMG_20190128_175157876_LL_jpg-829559.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/333164/IMG_20190128_175153541_LL_jpg-829562.JPG |
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Posted: 2/6/2019 9:08:41 AM EDT
[#48]
My 870 with loose shell stop & interrupter came to me that way. They don't fall out, they just slide back and forth so the staking may not be totally gone. Probably "kissing" those areas with a grinding stone on a Dremel would get them to release. I have never done that myself, so maybe wait for a better answer on how best to remove them.
Before you start prying the shell stop out, I would really encourage you to look again at exactly what is happening as the action bar is moved rearward and [is supposed] engages the shell stop by pushing it into the receiver thus releasing a shell from the mag tube. From your video THAT seems to be the crux of the whole problem. Have you tried swapping out the complete action bars/tube assembly with another (I think an 870 will fit)? I really feel like this is a much more simple problem than we are thinking it is. The gun is barely used so it is not a wear problem. As you stated, the action bars look like it has never worked. It's a proven design and given that these are mass produced, interchangeable parts, I gotta believe that whatever is keeping the shell stop from shifting out of the way, into the groove in the receiver has to be something on a minor scale. IIRC, you said that you can depress the shell stop by hand far enough to release a shell. correct? (I know feelings and all that  )
Maybe try buffing the leading edges of the shell stop with a hard felt wheel and a little polishing rouge to see if that helps in any way. NOT my pics but this is where, in my minds eye, something is going wrong. 
I borrowed these pics from; https://www.rem870.com/2015/12/14/remington-870-modification-for-more-reliable-fast-shooting/ ETA- Does the small camming area on the action bar (on your gun) have a smooth transition like the one shown above or is the thin edge blunted in any way? |
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Posted: 2/7/2019 3:02:13 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My 870 with loose shell stop & interrupter came to me that way. They don't fall out, they just slide back and forth so the staking may not be totally gone. Probably "kissing" those areas with a grinding stone on a Dremel would get them to release. I have never done that myself, so maybe wait for a better answer on how best to remove them. Before you start prying the shell stop out, I would really encourage you to look again at exactly what is happening as the action bar is moved rearward and [is supposed] engages the shell stop by pushing it into the receiver thus releasing a shell from the mag tube. From your video THAT seems to be the crux of the whole problem. Have you tried swapping out the complete action bars/tube assembly with another (I think an 870 will fit)? I really feel like this is a much more simple problem than we are thinking it is. The gun is barely used so it is not a wear problem. As you stated, the action bars look like it has never worked. It's a proven design and given that these are mass produced, interchangeable parts, I gotta believe that whatever is keeping the shell stop from shifting out of the way, into the groove in the receiver has to be something on a minor scale. IIRC, you said that you can depress the shell stop by hand far enough to release a shell. correct? (I know feelings and all that )
Maybe try buffing the leading edges of the shell stop with a hard felt wheel and a little polishing rouge to see if that helps in any way. NOT my pics but this is where, in my minds eye, something is going wrong. https://www.rem870.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/action_bar_remington870.jpg https://www.rem870.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/shell_latch_holds_round_remington870.jpg I borrowed these pics from; https://www.rem870.com/2015/12/14/remington-870-modification-for-more-reliable-fast-shooting/ ETA- Does the small camming area on the action bar (on your gun) have a smooth transition like the one shown above or is the thin edge blunted in any way? I'll most likely end up at my parents house over the weekend and my brother's house is next door so I'll try and pry him away from his work long enough to try his forearm and action bars, and maybe swap some parts as suggested. I think you are right though, and the problem is in all likelihood a very simple fix and I think that its the shell latch being bent out too far. I'll try and get a pic of it to show what I mean, it sits just a millimeter too far out and from what I can tell that's whats causing the second catch when cycled. The only problem is, is that I cant bend it back in without removing it and at that point I might as well just replace it since it's only like 15 bucks for a new one. I really appreciate the help, I have had this damn gun sitting next to my desk for weeks now, and almost every night I tinker with it trying to get a better understanding of exactly whats wrong with it. |
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Posted: 2/7/2019 8:00:52 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just checked, and they appear to be correct and the transition is smooth when the forearm is pumped back. It pushes it in like its supposed to and from what I can tell it looks like its functioning correctly. I'll most likely end up at my parents house over the weekend and my brother's house is next door so I'll try and pry him away from his work long enough to try his forearm and action bars, and maybe swap some parts as suggested. I think you are right though, and the problem is in all likelihood a very simple fix and I think that its the shell latch being bent out too far. I'll try and get a pic of it to show what I mean, it sits just a millimeter too far out and from what I can tell that's whats causing the second catch when cycled. The only problem is, is that I cant bend it back in without removing it and at that point I might as well just replace it since it's only like 15 bucks for a new one. I really appreciate the help, I have had this damn gun sitting next to my desk for weeks now, and almost every night I tinker with it trying to get a better understanding of exactly whats wrong with it. Please keep us updated. I love threads like this because it really makes me think about how these mechanisms work and I always learn something new as a result 
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