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Posted: 7/7/2018 12:08:52 AM EDT
The stock if from a Yugo M24/47 and the only reason I'm putting in the effort is she's all matching including this stock. Not sure what caused the crack either. There is decent but not excessive space between the inside wall of the stock and the cartridge housing. I think it may have cracked during shipping. Any thoughts?



Link Posted: 7/7/2018 12:45:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Looks like some crud inside the crack at the bottom of the stock with wood missing.

It may well have cracked in initial shipping from the factory and further debris got into the crack during removal of typical storage preservative.

It is a really bad spot though and inserting metal pins or even a plate inside the stock will be very difficult.

Is the stock actually marked with a serial number and tied to the guns serial number?
If not 'match' is not all that meaningful.
Link Posted: 7/7/2018 12:49:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Yep.....the stock is numher matched.
Link Posted: 7/7/2018 12:57:41 PM EDT
[#3]
I would probably buy another stock and put that on the gun and keep the original in a box or in a safe if you have one. That way if you ever sell it you still have the original. I bought a rem 7600 that I did this to. The factory wood was perfect and I use it for hunting so I ordered a set of synthetic replacements for it and put the wood right back in the box.

Plus with the replacement stock you can actually shoot the gun without worrying about further damage to the factory original.
Link Posted: 7/7/2018 3:48:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I would probably buy another stock and put that on the gun and keep the original in a box or in a safe if you have one. That way if you ever sell it you still have the original. I bought a rem 7600 that I did this to. The factory wood was perfect and I use it for hunting so I ordered a set of synthetic replacements for it and put the wood right back in the box.

Plus with the replacement stock you can actually shoot the gun without worrying about further damage to the factory original.
View Quote
Probably the best way to preserve any remaining 'collector' value.

That stock it toast for actual use and might crack the other side if fired.
Link Posted: 7/7/2018 6:15:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Bummer to hear. What about trying to anchor the rifle to a flat surface where the non cracked side is the side anchored flat. Then use a wedge to spread the crack slightly and fill it with epoxy?
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 12:31:08 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Bummer to hear. What about trying to anchor the rifle to a flat surface where the non cracked side is the side anchored flat. Then use a wedge to spread the crack slightly and fill it with epoxy?
View Quote
Still a pretty large gamble.
Depending on what may have soaked into the wood epoxy or wood glue may not bond all that well.

Any oils can really weaken glue bonds to wood.
Link Posted: 7/8/2018 12:56:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 7/9/2018 7:58:03 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looks like some crud inside the crack at the bottom of the stock with wood missing.

It may well have cracked in initial shipping from the factory and further debris got into the crack during removal of typical storage preservative.

It is a really bad spot though and inserting metal pins or even a plate inside the stock will be very difficult.

Is the stock actually marked with a serial number and tied to the guns serial number?
If not 'match' is not all that meaningful.
View Quote
That is what I was thinking. You said there was some space. I would get a thin brass plate as large as you can to fit in the stock without sticking out. Even if you have to cut and file it into place.

Rough up the back side with 80 grit sand paper and epoxy it in place.  I would also run screws through the plate to give it extra hold.  Also clean out the crack and fill it with epoxy. that should hold it in place
Link Posted: 7/9/2018 10:50:29 AM EDT
[#9]
That's a pretty straightforward job for Acraglass. Dye it black to match the growth rings of the grain, don't use a light color. There are any number of online guides to doing this, but it's overall fairly easy to do, and will leave you with a stock strong enough to use while retaining as much collector value as possible.
Link Posted: 7/18/2018 10:42:05 AM EDT
[#10]
Degrease with soaking related areas with acetone to draw out all oils (but not necessarily the finish, depending on the base finish).

Then using acreglass. Spelling? I've found out that the expensive stuff all the long time guys recommend is probably the best product.

All the other often recommended stuff that isn't purpose made will damage it in some way or another, short or long term. Careful!
Link Posted: 12/23/2018 6:14:32 AM EDT
[#11]
Gorilla glue works amazingly well believe it or not. I’ve used it in laminating hardwoods such as teak in a wooden boat shop I used to work in. You use water on the wood to thin it and allow,it to seep in and clamp it but the best part about the product is it dries almost clear just a little on the brown side and it takes stain whereas epoxy does not so with epoxy you will have a stripe of wood near the stain you won’t be able to,re darken with finish or oil
Link Posted: 12/23/2018 9:09:54 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Gorilla glue works amazingly well believe it or not. I’ve used it in laminating hardwoods such as teak in a wooden boat shop I used to work in. You use water on the wood to thin it and allow,it to seep in and clamp it but the best part about the product is it dries almost clear just a little on the brown side and it takes stain whereas epoxy does not so with epoxy you will have a stripe of wood near the stain you won’t be able to,re darken with finish or oil
View Quote
Clean the cracked area with de natured alcohol or acetone to eliminate any oil and debris.   This will remove any varnish or oil finish but it can be replaced.  Dampen the wood slightly and force in the gorilla glue.  Clamp snuggly and clean up any glue that is forced out.  More glue will bubble out and dry solid.  After 24 hours remove the clamps, scrape off the dried excess glue, lightly sand, stain to match and reapply varnish.

kwg
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