I realize tactical gear is not usually leather but I don't know where else to post this

So long story short, I had a leather holster in a box and mice decided that box was a great place so set up shop and the holster got stained (I assume mouse pee).  It is stained but not too bad, but I want to clean it up.

I have no idea how to do that, I've never tried to clean leather before or in fact do anything other than keep it from getting rained on.

I found this but it sounds like they're just guessing.  In the end they just recommend saddle soap, 'conditioners' (??), lederbalsam(???) or neatsfoot oil.  I've at least heard of neatsfoot oil but how does any of this clean a stain off?

Has anyone run into this before with leather goods?

I have had that happen.  The trash man got it and the mice paid dearly.   Bleach water is commonly used, but on leather IDK.

I used a burn barrel

Things are not looking good for my holster...

https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-a-Urine-Stain-from-a-Leather-Couch

My lesson was to store all that extra gear in Rubbermaid boxes.  Cheap insurance.

You could rinse it with a mild Lysol solution and leave it in the sun for a few days.  Treat it with something leather friendly after.

i cannot help whatsoever. just came here to tell you this is probably the finest thread title ive ever read here

Submerge and soak in water and dish soap, scrub, repeat as necessary. Soak in clean water to remove soap. When dried, re-oil/grease with Pecards, Sno Seal, or Obenauf's. I've got all kinds of crap out of leather using this method.

Soap and water go a long way with leather.  Using Neatsfoot oil is a no go in my book because people can't ever seem to understand too much is a bad thing. Tandy sells a product that's called "Aussie" that I've found to be a pretty good conditioner.

I burned all the neatsfoot I had left in a bonfire. Produced a lot of thick, black smoke. The salt from that shit leaches out of leather and leaves a white film on the surface, and also tears the leather apart internally when it flexes due to the abrasiveness of the salt crystals. I stick with Pecard's.

Wash with a mixture of a low alkaline and low ph. Alkaline will eat linen threads. High PH will cause the leather to swell more, either causing to break/weaken the linen threads or swell up the leather causing to cut itself on the nylon threads. Baby shampoo or the cheap 99cent a gallon dish washing liquid (NOT DAWN). Mix just enough soap to make suds in luke-warm water and add about a half cup of WHITE DISTILLED Vinegar to 5 gallons. The White Distilled Vinegar will extract/neutralize the salts as well as kill most odors. Don't be afraid of getting the leather wet, but do not water-log it. Use a soft to medium brittle brush and scrub the leather with light to medium force.    Now let dry. If the leather has been stretched, set out in the hot sun or similar. The heat and quick evaporation will shrink and stiffen the leather. If you desire no shrinkage or stiffness, set a distance with a fan nearby. Stagnant air may cause mildew.  Once dry, hand rub with a conditioner. I prefer Ray Holes Saddle Butter. Regardless of what conditioner you use, sever light coats when the leather is warm is better. Though the cow is dead and gone, the pores of the skin still open and close with temperature changes. Some conditioners such as the Saddle butter may cause a white build up. Don't worry as it is just the waxes in the conditioner. Apply warm heat from a hair dryer and the wax will melt into the leather.

Thank you, kind sir

A lot of good info here, I think I'll wait until it's a little warmer out and try some of these.  Not sure where to get good quality leather conditioner locally, guess I'll have to order on line.

Used this method on tack that Rats had pissed on.  +1