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Posted: 9/17/2018 6:46:36 PM EDT
I've always used the store bought stuff but I'm thinking about trying some homemade lube.
What are the disadvantages (if any) of using the homemade stuff? Is the best formula the Heet and Lanolin? Can high % rubbing alcohol be substituted? Thanks. |
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[#1]
No rubbing alcohol because even 91% contains some water. I have used lanolin and HEET for years. You can make enough of it to last a lifetime.
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[#2]
HEET and lanolin is the way to go. I purchased of Amazon a few years ago....
Works great and has lasted me about 3 years. I still have about 3 years worth left. I reload only about 6k rounds per year though. |
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[#4]
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[#5]
You can find and use 99% rubbing alcohol as well. I would not use lower than 99%
For me the lanolin and 99% has worked great. |
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[#6]
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[#7]
The red. I mixed two bottles or red with a half bottle of lanolin if memory serves. filled a 32oz spray bottle about 3/4 full.
2 to 3 shots Into a 1 gallon ziplock freezer bag half filled with brass and hand tumble. that's all it takes. |
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[#8]
I’ve been making mine for years from lanolin and isopropyl alcohol.
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[#9]
Quoted:
ME2! 99% ISA https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31alK3Q2wNL.jpg Liquid lanolin https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Ag5smL%2BFL.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
For me the lanolin and 99% has worked great. 99% ISA https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31alK3Q2wNL.jpg Liquid lanolin https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41Ag5smL%2BFL.jpg |
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[#10]
Quoted:
I have been using those from Amazon at a 12:1 ratio for a few years now with good success. View Quote |
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[#11]
Buy the 99% isopropyl alcohol and the Home Health liquid lanolin from Amazon dealers. Seems that 1 to 12 is about the same ratio as Dillion Lube. 1 to 8 is too thick and greasy. Works the same as factory and much cheaper. A 16 oz bottle of 99% alcohol will last me for years and cheaper than the $9.00 8 ounce factory bottle. You may want to buy a quality spray bottle or if you have some 8 oz. bottle left over you could use them.
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[#12]
Quoted:
Buy the 99% isopropyl alcohol and the Home Health liquid lanolin from Amazon dealers. Seems that 1 to 12 is about the same ratio as Dillion Lube. 1 to 8 is too thick and greasy. Works the same as factory and much cheaper. A 16 oz bottle of 99% alcohol will last me for years and cheaper than the $9.00 8 ounce factory bottle. You may want to buy a quality spray bottle or if you have some 8 oz. bottle left over you could use them. View Quote |
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[#13]
Those are exactly what I use.
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[#14]
Here is the original home made lube thread. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Case_Lube_for_cheap_bastards/42-305174/&light=case%7Clube%7Ccheap%7Cbastards
I mix mine 12 to 1. The reason I make my own is it's cheaper than Dillon or Franklin Arsenal spray lube and works the same. |
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[#15]
I’ve had zero issues using 91% ISA. If there is any moisture in your air, that 99% ISA will be “contaminated” every time you open the bottle. It’s not a big deal, since as the alcohol evaporates, it causes the water to evaporate at essentially the same rate. I wouldn’t go any lower than 91% because you could wind up with much slower drying times.
And even with Prime shipping, buying 99% from Amazon is about 5 times as expensive as buying 91% locally, so until I can find the 99% version locally, I’ll stick with 91%. Some folks go to the trouble fo buying denatured ethanol - easily found at Lowes and Home Depot. It’s WAY more expensive than isopropyl, and the benzene used to denature it vaporizes as it evaporates - I don’t know what level you’d build up in a reasonable-sized loading room, but I’m not going to try that stuff to find out. |
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[#16]
Quoted:
I've always used the store bought stuff but I'm thinking about trying some homemade lube. I did too until I tried the home brew, do it! What are the disadvantages (if any) of using the homemade stuff? None Is the best formula the Heet and Lanolin? [color=#1e84cc]The higher the % alcohol the better. Use either 99% or red bottle heet (I use the heet because I can get it cheaper). Yes on the Liquid Lanolin [/color]Can high % rubbing alcohol be substituted? Stick with 99% ISO or Heet = same same = for best results Thanks. (Tip ... just do it! A little goes a long way. Keep your bottle sealed when not in use (iso attracts water), and you will be gtg.) Covered ad nausem here. View Quote |
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[#17]
I use 91% isopropyl alcohol mixed with lanolin and it works fine.
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[#19]
Quoted:
...You may find that there’s some settling of the waxy content at times. I think this is related to the mixture ratio - I had that happen more with 10:1 mixes, so I moved up to 12:1 and it was less of an issue. View Quote |
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[#20]
I'm still using old bottles of Xerox film remover which is 99%.
I use my homemade case lube for bulk. For precision I've been using Hornady Unique. |
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[#21]
I've been doing it for awhile. 1 oz. of liquid lanolin mixed with one 12 oz. bottle of red Heet in a spray bottle. I lay my brass out, give it a couple of squirts, let it sit for a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate then size.
Works great. I'll never buy case lube again. |
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[#22]
Getting ready to make some homemade lube.
I'm going to use 91% alcohol because no one around here has 99% and I'm not going to pay the exorbitant prices to order it online. |
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[#23]
I guess I'll start out 10 to 1 ratio.and if it's too thick, I can always dilute.
Or should I start out 8 to 1 ratio? |
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[#24]
Quoted:
I guess I'll start out 10 to 1 ratio.and if it's too thick, I can always dilute. Or should I start out 8 to 1 ratio? View Quote Remember that you MUST wait for all the alcohol to evaporate. I give my brass at least 20 minutes, and usually around 30 minutes, to let the alcohol evaporate. I use 91% isopropyl, which you've chosen to use, and I don't think there could be a measurable difference in evaporation time between that and 99%. |
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[#25]
Quoted:
I've found 1:10 is OK, but maybe a little thick. I have to agitate my little spray bottle to get all the wax back in suspension. When I make my next mix, it's going to be 1:12. Remember that you MUST wait for all the alcohol to evaporate. I give my brass at least 20 minutes, and usually around 30 minutes, to let the alcohol evaporate. I use 91% isopropyl, which you've chosen to use, and I don't think there could be a measurable difference in evaporation time between that and 99%. View Quote Maybe I'll just mix 1:12 then;since both you and Dryflash recommend that ratio. |
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[#26]
Just remember to give the cases enough time for the ISO to evaporate off them, before you start to size the cases.
Also, even with the ISO at 99 percent (will decrease since it will pull in moisture from the air over time), make sure that the cases evaporating off the IS0 (and small percentage of water with it) are kept above freezing point during this time. I bring this up, since we had one opt that was reloading in his barn at below freezing temps, was DIY lubing the case below freezing level in the barn, and the water in the mix was freezing to the cases, isntead of evaporating off with the ISO instead. Hence frozen water crystals on the cases, was causing the cases to stick to his sizing dies isntead. So because there are times when I don't have the time to wait until the ISO has evaporated off before sizing cases, I still keep a RCBS roller type pad handy to use straight lanolin on it. And yes, RCBS case lube in just clear liquid lanolin as well. [youtube]https://youtu.be/biN7f_IHkZk[/youtube] |
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[#27]
Quoted:
Understood. Maybe I'll just mix 1:12 then;since both you and Dryflash recommend that ratio. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I've found 1:10 is OK, but maybe a little thick. I have to agitate my little spray bottle to get all the wax back in suspension. When I make my next mix, it's going to be 1:12. Remember that you MUST wait for all the alcohol to evaporate. I give my brass at least 20 minutes, and usually around 30 minutes, to let the alcohol evaporate. I use 91% isopropyl, which you've chosen to use, and I don't think there could be a measurable difference in evaporation time between that and 99%. Maybe I'll just mix 1:12 then;since both you and Dryflash recommend that ratio. |
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[#28]
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[#29]
[b]isntead.
, I still keep a RCBS roller type pad handy to use straight lanolin on it. And yes, RCBS case lube in just clear liquid lanolin as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=https://youtu.be/biN7f_IHkZk View Quote |
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[#30]
My exact thing. The "people also bought" suggestions on Amazon will fix you up. Kinda funny actually.
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[#31]
Do you guys dry tumble your cases after sizing when using dyi lube? I have been using lmperial, and never had an issue with using a qtip to get lube and brass flakes out of the neck after trimming. But, using a spray to lube looks way cleaner and easier. I was trying to avoid tumbling, as the dust from the walnut dirties the case, and I have to wipe it down then anyways.
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[#32]
Yes, one of the few uses left for a dry tumbler. The other is cleaning steel cases.
The key is to use the proper size PLAIN corn cob. Plain as in nothing added to it. Proper size corn cob will flow through the flashole and not have to be picked out. One place to get it, https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-blast-media-corn-cob-14-to-20-grit-crn2-40/i/G1695775/ |
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[#33]
Quoted:
Do you guys dry tumble your cases after sizing when using dyi lube? I have been using lmperial, and never had an issue with using a qtip to get lube and brass flakes out of the neck after trimming. But, using a spray to lube looks way cleaner and easier. I was trying to avoid tumbling, as the dust from the walnut dirties the case, and I have to wipe it down then anyways. View Quote |
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[#34]
Quoted:
Yes, one of the few uses left for a dry tumbler. The other is cleaning steel cases. The key is to use the proper size PLAIN corn cob. Plain as in nothing added to it. Proper size corn cob will flow through the flashole and not have to be picked out. One place to get it, https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-blast-media-corn-cob-14-to-20-grit-crn2-40/i/G1695775/ View Quote Back to the OP.... if you can't find 99% at a price you like, don't disregard the red bottle HEET ... it is simply 99% iso, and 12 oz red bottle can be bought for $3 or less at wally world or your local auto supply shop. same same 99% dries quicker, use 99%. Yes, keep mixed lube sealed when not in use. It attracts moisture from the air and evaporates if you don't .... it will still work though, to a point ... just takes longer to dry and increases the lanolin ratio as the iso evaporates. Keep it sealed |
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[#35]
Quoted:
Do you guys dry tumble your cases after sizing when using dyi lube? I have been using lmperial, and never had an issue with using a qtip to get lube and brass flakes out of the neck after trimming. But, using a spray to lube looks way cleaner and easier. I was trying to avoid tumbling, as the dust from the walnut dirties the case, and I have to wipe it down then anyways. View Quote Second, a little of this stuff goes a long way. Watch this video Honestly, this guys is using for than I do, and it still wasn't very much. The key imo is to make sure you have a bunch of the necks looking at you with you mist them. Many of the guys here use a cardboard box or a tub to accomplish this....swirl the cases around and many will be neck up. My favorite is to use an empty 1 gallon plastic ice cream tub (because its fun to empty the tub and the round tub makes it easy). Swirl 300 or so (more than this, use a bigger box or tub) around a couple times and 1/3 of the necks will be facing you .... one spray ....mix and swirl again and 1/3 will be facing you ... one spray ...repeat one more time ... one spray .... let dry and you are gtg. Not rocket science, simply make sure you get some mist down the necks.....and remember it doesn't take a lot of this lube to do the job. Watch the video. Third .... because it doesn't take much, there isn't a ton of lube to tumble off. The small grit corn the Dryflash recommended above is perfect for this. Life's too short to be dabbing with qtips, and ya ought to be tumbling lube off and getting trim waste out of them anyway imo, ymmv, that's cool. This homebrew lube/small grit cob combo makes life easy, and even more importantly imol ... it is great lube!!!!! |
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[#36]
Post above built on my answer, the other benifit of dry tumbling off the lube is cases will have the bling.
Also no drying time if you were to wet tumble the lube off. |
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[#37]
Regular 90% iso can be used if you can tolerate the horror of shaking the spray bottle before you use it.
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[#38]
Lanolin and Everclear will also work. I've tried it. Terribly expensive, though.
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[#39]
Quoted:
Lanolin and Everclear will also work. I've tried it. Terribly expensive, though. View Quote The reason that is cost so much for Everclear, its pure food grade Undenatured, consumable ethanol controlled/taxed by BATF that you can actual drink without killing you. If your looking for 200 proof (no water at all), Undenatured ethonal, then you here you go by the gallon instead (does have a $27 TTB tax on it through). Note, if you though that drinking Everclear 190 was brutal, pure 200 proof is pretty much like trying to drink rocket fuel isntead. https://www.bestvaluevacs.com/bvv-lab-grade-ethanol-200-proof-1-gallon.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr_6PrOGg3gIVzLjACh2IQQj_EAQYASABEgIf-fD_BwE The other three types of alcohol are methyl, propyl and butyl alcohol, but if consumed can result in blindness and death, even in relatively small doses. So why such are much cheaper to buy, even at 99% purity, since they do not have a TTB consumable tax on them. |
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[#40]
Quoted:
Note, if you though that drinking Everclear 190 was brutal, pure 200 proof is pretty much like trying to drink rocket fuel isntead. https://www.bestvaluevacs.com/bvv-lab-grade-ethanol-200-proof-1-gallon.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr_6PrOGg3gIVzLjACh2IQQj_EAQYASABEgIf-fD_BwE View Quote Don't drink lab grade 200 proof ethanol even mixed to lower concentrations. Because of the nature of the relationship between the components of an ethanol/water mixture, the mixture can not be distilled to a concentration beyond the azeotrope (95% EtOH / 5% H2O). As a result, the lab grade 200 proof stuff is made by a different process... IIRC, there are usually small amount of benzene in the 200 proof lab grade stuff (or at least the stuff you can afford) - your liver doesn't like benzene and you can't live without a liver! . It is VERY difficult to produce really pure EtOH that is free of any organic contaminants... |
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[#41]
I mixed up some using 91% alcohol at around a 11:1 ratio. I'll report back after I use it.
I know I need to shake the spray bottle before each use. Quick question. Is this stuff okay to get inside the case mouths? |
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[#43]
Quoted:
Absolutely. In fact I work at making sure some does. Lanolin is an organic wax, nothing more. It cannot harm powder or primers. Getting a little lube inside the case mouth allows your expander ball to work MUCH easier. In this picture, I’ve gone through a couple of steps to ensure all the cases are mouth-up, allowing me to spritz a little lube in all the case mouths. http://www.ghporter.com/PubPics/Arfcom/Caselube/Caselubing5.jpg I did a write up on the how-to of this quite a while back... I’ll have to find it so I can provide a link. View Quote |
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[#44]
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[#45]
The red bottle heat uses methyl alcohol.
Keep it off your skin. Methyl is really nasty stuff. You CAN absorb enough through your skin to cause problems. The 'other' one uses isopropyl alcohol. Probably around 99% so it has maximum water 'absorbing' ability. It is not all that much of a hazard at all. If you try and drink it you will get the sheetz something fierce. Picked up more than one alcoholic that tried. Earned them a few nights in the hospital. |
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[#46]
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[#47]
Quoted: The 'other' one uses isopropyl alcohol. Probably around 99% so it has maximum water 'absorbing' ability. It is not all that much of a hazard at all. . View Quote Best to wear rubber gloves if handling cases strayed with the lube;until the alcohol evaporates. |
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[#48]
Quoted:
Isopropyl alcohol absorbs through the skin too and can be toxic in large amounts. Best to wear rubber gloves if handling cases strayed with the lube;until the alcohol evaporates. View Quote Isopropyl alcohol is in every bathroom in this country... ever hear of someone absorbing too much through their skin (without drinking it)??? I think breathing the fumes is far more dangerous than transcutaneous absorption and I have never heard of someone harmed by fumes either. |
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[#49]
Quoted: Isopropyl alcohol absorbs through the skin too and can be toxic in large amounts. Best to wear rubber gloves if handling cases strayed with the lube;until the alcohol evaporates. View Quote That is why it is used in 'rubbing alcohol' for use on skin. |
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[#50]
Quoted:
I call BS! Rubbing alcohol is used primarily as a topical antiseptic - it is designed/intended to be applied to the skin!!! Isopropyl alcohol is in every bathroom in this country... ever hear of someone absorbing too much through their skin (without drinking it)??? I think breathing the fumes is far more dangerous than transcutaneous absorption and I have never heard of someone harmed by fumes either. View Quote Why do you think it has that warning? https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/15066739/ https://blog.gotopac.com/2016/01/06/the-dangers-of-isopropyl-alcohol/ While it's not going to kill you, wearing rubber gloves isn't a bad idea. |
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