I need some help guys

I just started getting my war belt setup started and I'm trying get a holster setup  now.
I use a HSGI Suregrip belt and I want to get a holster that will attach to it.
I use a Glock 19 Gen 4

I hear Safariland makes good holsters but after looking on there site I'm clueless on what to get.

What do you guys recommend after your experiences with Safariland?

I have the same belt with a G-Code SOC RTI. It's awesome.

Light bearing or no?  Either way I'd go with a 7TS on a mid or low ride adapter attched though the subload slot.

7TS holster

MID-RIDE DROP ADAPTER

LOW RIDE DROP ADAPTER

If you have multiple pistols you'd want to carry you can pick up a few of the QLS forks and attach a QLS reciever on the low or mid ride adapter and put the forks on your holsters.

QLS FORK KIT

How does the adapter attach to the belt?

also the holster you
linked says it's for concealed carry, will that still work for a war belt setup?

It's not that great for concealed lol.  It sticks off your body pretty far.  Just take the scews out of the back and the paddle comes off and then you attach it either to the QLS fork or directly to the mid or low ride adapter.  The holster I linked is a LVL2 holster with a thumb release it'll work fine for a battle belt setup.

Take the HDPE stiffner out of the belt and run it though where the web belt is.  When you get it loose pull the webbelt though the cutout for the subload (depending on what hand you shoot with) disassemble whichever end of the belt will come apart and thread it though the mid or low ride adapter as you would if you were putting it on a regular belt then reinstall the webbelt into the suregrip belt and position the holster where you want it within the limits of the subload cutout.  Pull the HDPE stiffner out of the velcro area and re-install it where it originally went.

Here's an example of my belt in one of it's early configurations before I moved away from Blackhawk holsters and made some other significant changes to my setup.  The holster pictured is attached to a duty drop adapter and goes though the right hand subload cutout.  The dumppouch is attached though the left hand subload cutout.

I use an inner/outer belt combo. A low ride adapter lives on my inner belt, and accessories at installed on my outer belt. It's a quick on/off install. Not really a true warbelt setup though.

I open carry frequently with a Safariland 6365. I use qls forks in several spots around my house and vehicle so I can unattach it from my belt and mount it when needed.

I've just started using the QLS adapters and am really liking them quite a bit.  Need to pick up a few more and install them in various spots.

Thanks for the info and links.

Another question,
What is the difference between the holster you linked and the Safariland tactical/mil holsters?

I have a shit ton of G Code and Safariland holsters and ancillary gear. Like a ridiculous amount. What you want is an ALS holster in STX tactical finish. You also want a 6006 ALS guard. You dont want G Code or a G Code adapter. You dont want SLS, with or without ALS. You dont want 7TS, or a concealment line holster, or a military line holster. You want a duty line holster. You dont want QLS. Well at least not at first. QD can come later. Just find a nice mid ride version, not a thigh rig, not a low ride plate. Get a holster for a light, even if you dont have one. Specifically that is a Safariland 6390. If you have specific questions on why NOT on things I can elaborate on EXACTLY why, but if you just follow my simple advice you will be golden. There are very specific reasons for that advice but they would be lengthy to type if you just want to find the "right" holster for your warbelt.

OP I have a few different types and lately I have been using my 6354DO on my belt.

I use a mid-drop attachment also because it fits my reach and it’s not a full drop.

It’s one of the those things you may go through a few to find one you like.

Summer holster set up is totally different from winter etc.

I feel your pain and you have some good reply’s so far.

It’s not a one size fits all for sure. I have a few buddy’s that let me use theirs for a class or two until I found my set up.

Good luck

I've been really impressed with the Safariland 7TS models.  They offer a less expensive option over their old kydex formed designs, and still incorporate the excellent ALS locking system.

My current preferred setup uses these three parts.  The mid-ride adapter gives enough drop to clear armor and allow easy access, the QLS parts allow for quick and easy swap of holsters if wanted, and gives a bit of stand-off from the body, and by adding the single leg strap sandwiched between the mid-ride mount and the female QLS plate, you can add stability to the overall setup.

https://holsterops.com/products/safariland-7ts-als-7377-holster-with-qls-19

https://holsterops.com/collections/holster-accessories/products/safariland-mid-ride-6070ubl-with-qls-22

https://holsterops.com/products/leg-strap-for-leg-shrouds-3004-1

Listen to this.   He is spot on and elaborating will take quite some time to do.  Let’s just say the above is a good baseline to start.  The other options can be added later as your holster needs evolve.   Think of the Safariland holster system as a mod’able platform.  There are some 7TS ALS only duty type holsters as well.

Everything ^HE^ said.

Concealment holsters are a thinner, more flexible Kydex material than the duty STX Tactical holsters. The 7TS are even worse, they are a one piece design, folded up, and of a flexible material. The nose block, instead of being retained by a screw or pin in the traditional Kydex holsters are retained by NOTHING other than the body of the flexible holster. This ensures an eventual failure to stay in place and the nose block to rotate in the holster and prevent reholstering or lock the gun in where it cant be removed. The 7TS I have used did have room for a Surefure tape switch without interference and it is NOT able to be reheated and remolded as easily. Also, if they get really dirty you have no suede lining and you get more slide wear. The lack of strength wont immediately bute you in the ass, but it will eventually. They ARE incredibly cheap though. They tend to look worn faster than STX tactical, but sliwer than plain kydex concealment line holsters. The abilty to remold tape switch channels and grind areas of the traditional holsters is a huge benefit, as is the better stiffness, better finish wear, etc. The worst finish wear is the glued on fabric military line holsters.  The eges peel off and fray and require trimming and melting every 6-12 months, plus they just look worn and mangled after a few years. You can use a STX tactcal holster for 10 years daily without issue. But if price is your biggest concern,  by all means get the cheaper holster.

The reason I am not a fan of the drop holsters with a strap are several. The need for a strap is from the bottom of the holster flopping out from leverage with a high pivot/anchor point when you run or draw. The reason to have a holster lower is because of interference with draw while wearing a plate carrier. Modern plate carriers tend to ride high and if you dont run a ton of side gear and side plates, you really do not need a drop holster 99% of the time. A normal holster height will work fine.

A reason lots of people run a QD system, aside from just swapping holsters, is to be able to place the holster on the chest. This is often because, with a real drop leg holster, the holster follows the leg and when you sit, such as in a car, it changes orientation so you cannot draw. Too low of a rigid mount, keeps orientation correct but pushes the nose of the holster into a car seat bottom bolster and can push the holster up and/or wears a hole in your car seat. Just look at any partol vehicle's bottom right driver seat bolster and it is unusually worn through the fabric to foam from rigid, lower mounted holster nose wear. A higher (normal) holster position eliminates seat issues and seated orientation issues so you can always draw normally.

Smooth draw is accomplished from getting a propper minimal forward cant, vertical side orientation (instead of nose into thigh and top of holster flared out), and correct fore/aft positioning. A propperly broken in and adjusted STX wont grab the gun. It will only grab if you have to pull at a really odd angle due to holster positioning. Mostly, my front sight grabs my ALS mechanism in weird draw positions. This is countered by using a stiff holster. The STX is the stiffest of the holsters. The 7TS the most flimsy. I have NEVER had a holster failure with a STX but had a 7TS rotate the nose block once in a class and once during qualifications. I won't buy another 7TS for that reason.

If you get an SLS holster, you WILL forget to close the hood under stress occasionally and end up with an unretained sidearm. The ALS solves this. If you drop it in, its locked. If you get the ALS mechanism, if you run around with your rifle slung and hanging in front, your pistol grip can hit the release button and cause your holster unlock and your pistol can fly out. I destroyed a Leupold Deltapoint Pro that way once. If you get an SLS/ALS combo holster, it solves the popping out issue but stacking the mechanisms one above the other forces the holster to sit 2" higher than a single SLS or ALS mechanism, creating the need to drop the holster and causes low holster issues discussed previously. The solution is to place a 6006 guard on the ALS only mechanism,  since it stacks right over the ALS on the inside, it removes a second mechanism location. It guards against accidental release, even in the down position,  and does not slow draw appreciably.

Another reason to go ALS is because unlike SLS, you can use a weaponlight holster with or without a weaponlight. You can also run a shorter gun (like a 19 in a 17 holster); however, you cant do both (run a no weaponlight 19 in a weaponlight 17 holster).

IMO, there is NO reason to run a handgun holster so low the top of the gun is not even with, or higher than, the top of your belt. Run pistol mags weak side, bullets facing in, with enough room to grab either mag and not remove the other under stress. If you run extended base plates, be sure your spare mags are to the side enough or flared forward enough to not interefere with the bottom of your plate carrier when you bend forward. There is no reason to run more than two pistol spares on a modern double stacked semi auto. If 45-60 rounds of handgun ammo won't do it, you should have made your way to a rifle by then. More pistol ammo is just dead weight and wasted space.

For QD systems, there are two basic standards. There is the military break away type and the police retention type. The Safariland QLS is meant for retention during holster grabs. It is as strong as a bolted on holster. The G-Code retention is easier to release, shorter throw in operation, and gives better belt mounted positioning options, but it is weaker. I have Safariland/G-Code adapters to run a Gcode belt mount and wheel with Safariland holsters. I don't run G-code holsters because they are less reliable and weaker than my Safariland holsters. Just know that if you get G-Code anything, it is weaker than Safariland.

I hope this post clarifies some of my reasoning earlier when I gave a specific reccomendations and I hope it stops you from wasting a lot of time and money testing and tweaking for a decade or two like me.

I need you to go talk to the S4 people at HQ Air Force Security Forces Center.

I started my LE carrier as a patrolman with a Sig P226 in a STX SLS/ALS combo holster. I ran that UBL drop plate due to the previously mentioned 2" holster ride height increase. When I switched to a Glock 19 as a Detective, I used the QLS to swap my 19 ALS paddle holster over to my patrol belt when I did patrol work. The UBL was way too low for use with that holster and a duty belt. I also ran a DFA from a paddle with QLS for my 19 to a single strap drop leg mount with QLS due to an exterior soft raid vest I was issued before I purchased and ran a plate carrier. So I had everthing you have shown to try, so I did try it previously (except my holster was ALS instead of SLS). What I found was this...

First, when I ran the drop plate with single leg strap it was great when standing. Its a great height and very stable. But when I had to sit in a car, it was way too low and too stiff with a very stiff belt.  Certain seat bolsters just would not fit it was especially annoying on long waits in a vehicle staked out. I removed the holster everytime I got in a car and could get away with it.

Second, I also found I did not need to ride the handgun so low when I went from a soft armored raid vest to a plate carrier. The plate carrier ran so much higher, I had about 2-3" more room from belt to armor.

The third thing I found was that in a hurry and under pressure, it was slower to get kitted up (like an active shooter gear up drill). I tended to buckle the leg strap in with some pants material in together, then have to pull apart and rebuckle to get it together. It takes about 3-10 seconds just to do the leg strap in a hurry. Now, I dont run a leg strap at all, I just run a single mechanism ALS, with flip guard, at normal belt height. I never wear the soft raid vest anymore.

I have run all kinds of Safariland over the years for Glock, Sig, Smith&Wesson, etc. with and without red dots from all lines of Safariland holsters. The only negative is the very limited cant angle adjustment on Safariland holsters. You pretty much just adjust them as vertical as possible and you are done, but they still tilt too much to the front by a tiny bit IMO. You also have to make sure you use the Safariland washer shims to get a QLS to not make your holster cant into your thigh from the side on sime holsters. The best thing I found for getting the holster as upright, as possible, with minimal forward cant, is the Gcode RTI wheel mounts that have the slotted adjustments. The optimum drop is too low by about a half inch to an inch. The regular height is too high by half an inch to an inch. Also the opening is too narrow for a thick belt like my Volundgearworks micro war belt. I guess you just pick your poison at that point.

I'll second the post above on a point about cant. I cannot stand the forward cant on holsters.
When I moved to the ALS it has cant and thankfully when I added the QLS plate, I can rotate almost all of the cant out of it. Almost perfect.
Second is the suede in them can be helped out with food grade silicone spray.